What aspect of iron design can effect your shots the most?

easyyy · July 5, 2006

What aspect of iron design can affect your shots the most? Size of the over all head, weight distribution, sole designs? What do you think makes the difference in your game?

I have found that in my game (or lack there of) I have settled in for a while in what works for me and I think I know why. Work, and two young ones it is harder to find the time that I used to have to play. My handicap floats around from 6 to 8 most of the time. I was the lowest a 4 but played to a 12 (lost some money).

Inconsistent swings that make my ball go off line more than others is the swing that hits the ball fat. I can tell where I hit the ball on the face usually. Go to the range or on the course and you know where the ball was struck. When I miss a ball on the face left or right of the sweet spot the ball goes offline for sure, but not as far off line as a fat shot. When I hit a long or short iron heavy the result is not good. Leads me to my point that sole designs seem to be the largest factor for my decision when buying a set of irons. If the head looks good to the eye I then look for the most important aspect for a successful shot, the sole design. This is just for me. I have friends that might find that lower weight distribution to get the ball up higher is important to them.

The blade style head has a thin sole with little bounce. I have to nip that ball perfectly or I will dig and hit it fat. Some shots more than others. With a slight change in the sole design I can get some relief. Could be washed out leading edge, wider sole, more bounce, or a combination of all 3.

Using Taylor Made and Titleist versions as examples. The TM 300 forged has little bounce. While I love these heads I find my iron play slightly better using the wider sole larger bounce TM LT heads. While the looks of the LT still fit the eye with a thin topline and minimal offset, the bounce helps me in times that my swing isn’t as consistent as it could be.

Same for the 695cb from Titleist vs their 695mbs. These “cb” heads have a generous amount of bounce and slightly wider soles needed for me to make a few subtle mistakes and get away with it.

JMHO Just my honest opinion

lysaght68 · July 5, 2006

As a 15 capper with a shallow iron swing my typical mishit is thin, I absolutely need an iron with alot of weight down low to help me combat my typical miss and the MX-23's that I'm playing now are very good in that regard. Another mishit I've struggled with on occasion is contact toward the toe area of the grooves, the absolute best iron I've played for minimal distance loss on toe hits is the Big Bertha 2004, I think the heel/toe notch weighting of the BB 2004's (and probably the 2006's as well) makes that iron incredibly good for those who regularly stray too far from the sweetspot.

easyyy · July 5, 2006

As a 15 capper with a shallow iron swing my typical mishit is thin, I absolutely need an iron with alot of weight down low to help me combat my typical miss and the MX-23's that I'm playing now are very good in that regard. Another mishit I've struggled with on occasion is contact toward the toe area of the grooves, the absolute best iron I've played for minimal distance loss on toe hits is the Big Bertha 2004, I think the heel/toe notch weighting of the BB 2004's (and probably the 2006's as well) makes that iron incredibly good for those who regularly stray too far from the sweetspot.

Big Bertha irons and ones like i with extreme perimeter weighting are fantastic for higher handicappers. Kenneth Ferrie who was leading the US Open for a few days played a new set of those R7 perimeter weighted head like the Big Bertha. He said "golf is hard enough, I need the largest head I can get with my irons". Played better than anyone else for a few day in the US Open using them.