My First Paintfill - Cameron 2012 Select Blue / White

[dave_79]

May not need much alcohol or any at all with opaque colors and the white is hard to mix, seems cloudy for quite a while. I have noticed this too but it usually looks great after it dries completely.

 

Thanks again. Yeah, the white really was cloudy, not like the orange at all. Maybe I should have left it for a good length of time after stirring. It looked horrible as I applied it, but it is looking ok whilst drying so far. And I thought getting the bombs right was tough!

 

Update: So, the white lettering dried a lot better than I thought it would when I saw it go into the letters. But its very hard to get that X2 to show up well in the wider of the stripes on the sole. Is there a trick to doing this? Otherwise I'll paint it orange like the thinner stripe, paint them both black or leave them raw.

 

I'm quite happy with the lettering, I don't think there is any visible bubbling as in pic in post #51. I did learn though to be very careful and precise during cleanup so as not to disturb previously painted colours othwerise you have to go back and do those all over again!

 

I've also done the bombs & weights for what is hopefully the last time. This time I did it properly and polished the cavities first and then used alcohol instead of acetone-containing nail polish remover as per earlier tips. Bombs & weights covered over and will be left undisturbed for a couple of days and hopefully I will have the best results yet. Will post pic soon

[dave_79]

Here it is folks! I'm very happy with it. Minor cleanup needed around bombs but otherwise pretty good I think!

[mckennwa]

Looks great! Well done.

[Pretzel]

Out of curiosity, do you have any tips for getting the face lettering to turn out well? I have made at least 10 attempts to do my 2012 Newport 2's face lettering in white to match the rest of the lettering that I re-did, but I keep having issues with the paint getting into the face milling.

 

My technique for the other lettering is to slightly overfill and then wipe off the excess using a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol. If I do this on the lettering on the face of the putter it simply smears the excess paint into the face milling. If I apply enough pressure with the paper towel to remove the paint from the face milling, it will also remove most of the paint from the lettering itself (which then smears across the milling, compounding the problem further). I've tried to take a small metal pick and apply the paint drop by tiny drop into the lettering, but I invariably end up with small bits of paint around the edges of the lettering that degrade the overall look and cannot be wiped off for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

 

I'm using a 3 ml syringe with a 22 gauge needle, but I still can't use the needle to apply a small enough amount of paint to prevent the overfilling since the paint likes to keep coming once it has started. Any tips that might help me?

[dave_79]

Out of curiosity, do you have any tips for getting the face lettering to turn out well? I have made at least 10 attempts to do my 2012 Newport 2's face lettering in white to match the rest of the lettering that I re-did, but I keep having issues with the paint getting into the face milling.

 

My technique for the other lettering is to slightly overfill and then wipe off the excess using a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol. If I do this on the lettering on the face of the putter it simply smears the excess paint into the face milling. If I apply enough pressure with the paper towel to remove the paint from the face milling, it will also remove most of the paint from the lettering itself (which then smears across the milling, compounding the problem further). I've tried to take a small metal pick and apply the paint drop by tiny drop into the lettering, but I invariably end up with small bits of paint around the edges of the lettering that degrade the overall look and cannot be wiped off for the reasons I mentioned earlier.

 

I'm using a 3 ml syringe with a 22 gauge needle, but I still can't use the needle to apply a small enough amount of paint to prevent the overfilling since the paint likes to keep coming once it has started. Any tips that might help me?

 

I'm curious about this too. You can see that on mine the areas around the white paint on the sole are clean, but the area around the white paint on the milled face is still very slightly white. I too am scared to rub over this much more with alcohol in case it wrecks the lettering paint which I am happy with. It must be tricky to get right if you're even using a syringe - I just used a toothpick. Also the Tamiya X paints are great - I'm done with nail polish!

[Wadams]

Awesome thread. Really curious if this same technique would work on the Callaway MD3 bombs? Looks to be similar translucent paint finish as a scotty?

 

Anyone seen this done before on these wedges?

 

Btw orange & blue scotty looks great, go gators :nyam:

[Pretzel]

I'm curious about this too. You can see that on mine the areas around the white paint on the sole are clean, but the area around the white paint on the milled face is still very slightly white. I too am scared to rub over this much more with alcohol in case it wrecks the lettering paint which I am happy with. It must be tricky to get right if you're even using a syringe - I just used a toothpick. Also the Tamiya X paints are great - I'm done with nail polish!

I figured out something that finally worked for me. At the golf course I work at the pro has a small metal tool with a tiny pick on one end (think small sewing needle sized). This was tremendously useful in both removing the old paint and applying the paint near the face. It took a lot of careful work, doing it only a couple letters at a time, but I was able to finish the face lettering nicely by placing it in small drops. My biggest enemy here was the tremor in my hands, which caused me to start over a number of times (hence the reason I did it only a couple letters at a time, so I didn't have to start from scratch after a mistake).

 

For cleanup I purchased the fine point q-tips that I believe are marketed towards makeup application (I found them in the cosmetics section). I would dip the tip in rubbing alcohol and use it to very carefully wipe away any tiny excess I had leftover. Then I would VERY lightly wipe it with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol after about 2 minutes to let a bit of a film form over the paint in the lettering. The trick is to only use each q-tip for one letter, and sometimes using two per letter. They start to unravel pretty fast, leaving loose strands to drag through the paint you just put down, so swap them out for new ones after only a couple of brushes across the surface of the putter. It feels incredibly wasteful, but it's what works.

[dave_79]

Oh dear, just when I thought I was happy with my paint job. . . I somehow got a small bit of X23 Trans blue spilled into the white sight line. I lived with it for a few rounds but it started to bug me, so I stripped the paint out of the sight line to start again. I placed the putter onto a sheet of kitchen towel and left some nail polish remover in the sight line, left it on for a few minutes then scraped the paint out. I refilled it and left it til the next day. I then went to lift the putter head from the kitchen towel and realised it was stuck to the sole. When I got it off, I realised that it had destroyed the 2 orange stripes on the sole that looked so good (post #62). I had a go at filling them in with Tamiya orange again and just could not get them the same.

 

I love the Tamiya translucent paints in the bombs & weights, and the Tamiya non-clear paints in the lettering (as they don't bubble like nail polish does). But what works best in those sole stripes on the 2012 Black Mist Selects? I've done them for now with matt black nail polish as I don't have any Tamiya black, and am waiting for it to dry. Also black looks nasty and hides any imperfections well on the stripes (and white / bright colours really show them off!).

[Pretzel]

I love the Tamiya translucent paints in the bombs & weights, and the Tamiya non-clear paints in the lettering (as they don't bubble like nail polish does). But what works best in those sole stripes on the 2012 Black Mist Selects?

One tip to get the stripes to look better is to make sure to have a thin sheen of rubbing alcohol in the stripe before you paint it. This helps the paint to spread much more evenly over the larger surface by thinning the paint out and removing the barrier of surface tension that would otherwise impede the paint from flowing smoothly.

[dave_79]

Thanks, I'm sure I did that anyway but for some reason I can't get it right. It actually looks ok in black so I think I'll leave it now.

[dave_79]

3 year bump. Just found pic of the Notchback after I'd done the sole stripes in black. Not perfect on the cleanup but it was so hard to get white or bright colours to look good in those stripes, so I was happy with that black.

 

 

 

I sold it soon after that. After all the effort I'd put into the paint job too. But, at the time I was hardly playing and needed the money for something. Got back into playing this Summer and as soon as I got on the first green I regretted selling it. When I got home I started looking on eBay and a few days later I was once again the happy owner of a 2012 Black Mist Notchback with custom paint. The head seems to have been redone in a sort of jet black finish. Nice, as I know the 2012 Black Mists' finish tend to fade over time. I can't be certain who refinished & painted it as the seller just said that it had been sent away to be done, and I'm sure he'd have said so if it was a proper Scotty custom job. I think the weights are fake but I've seen worse fakes & will probably source Scotty ones at some point. Anyway, the bombs had started to go a little so I stripped them, along with the weights. The white & black lettering is really good though so I am tempted to leave it as is, and just do the bombs & weights in Tamiya X23 Clear Blue. Will post pics of new Notchback soon.