My First Paintfill - Cameron 2012 Select Blue / White

[smitty]

Love the way the bombs turned out, really have a cool machine shine to them.

[fmac]

Fantastic job. The colors really pop.

[dave_79]

Bumping this as I'm using the exact same paint (Tamiya Clear Blue X23) and trying to get the exact same finish as the OP!

 

I'll attach a pic later as I'm posting from work. Here is my problem:

 

OP - I've tried many times to get that stunning shiny clear blue finish in the cherry bombs and I just can't get it. Yesterday afternoon I finally thought I had it - 1 drop of acetone and 3 drops of X23, it looked superb. I then went out and came back late at night having left it for plenty of hours to set. I wish I'd taken a photo there and then as it was everything I've been trying to get with the bombs. I put the headcover on, put the putter back into the bag and went to bed a happy man. Success at last! Or so I thought. . .

 

This morning I went to have another look in the light of day, and as soon as I took the headcover off my heart sank as 2 of the 3 bombs looked wrecked, whilst one remained perfect. When I say wrecked I mean blotchy, as if someone had jabbed at it with a compass point or pin or something. How could this be after leaving it for I'd say 6 hours to dry?

 

All I could think of is either I didn't leave it long enough (surely 6 hours is enough?) or that the rather furry stock headcover fluff has got into those 2 bombs. Could that really affect it? I know this sounds dramatic but I was genuinely devastated to see this after going to bed having just seen what looked like a perfect finish!

 

I'm obsessed with getting the clear blue finish right with Tamiya, but if this is gonna happen every time it gets left in the headcover, I'd rather leave the bombs raw or use nail polish - it would give a flat, less stunning finish but at least headcover fluff won't trash it. Alternately, does Scotty do a cover without so much fluff inside? If not I may have to get a different brand cover like an Odyssey snap shut which has no fluff in it!

 

Any ideas?

[oneaugusta]

Sorry it didn't work for you but the Tamiya clears I let dry for at least 24 hrs laying flat before even moving the putter, it drys very slow.

 

 

[dave_79]

^ Nice job! I'll try again and this time leave it for longer to dry. At least the Tamiya paint comes out easily when you need to remove it!

[dave_79]

Here's the pic. You can see the middle bomb has gone, the left isn't great and the right is just about still ok. Does this look like what happens if you haven't let the paint cure for long enough?

 

I've done it again, and won't move the putter for at least 24 hours this time !

[dave_79]

Sorry it didn't work for you but the Tamiya clears I let dry for at least 24 hrs laying flat before even moving the putter, it drys very slow.

 

 

 

I saw in another thread you recommended two options to help with clear acrylics: Polish the bombs with metal polish before putting acetone & paint in, or painting a thin layer of X2 white before the clear coat. In the putter shown, did you use one of these two options and if so which one? Thanks

[oneaugusta]

Sorry it didn't work for you but the Tamiya clears I let dry for at least 24 hrs laying flat before even moving the putter, it drys very slow.

 

 

 

I saw in another thread you recommended two options to help with clear acrylics: Polish the bombs with metal polish before putting acetone & paint in, or painting a thin layer of X2 white before the clear coat. In the putter shown, did you use one of these two options and if so which one? Thanks

Have done many more since that thread and the method has evolved, here's how I do the bombs now. Polish to bright silver first, have your paint slowly stirred and has been settling down for a few minutes, clean bombs with good high grade alcohol with q-tip, then leave just a little wet alcohol in bombs, "I do each bomb by itself" with this" Most important step is putter must be level which means you must put a couple pieces of paper under the lower part of the face to account for loft. So ad just a touch of alcohol in bomb then add paint but don't overfill, just enough to cover the bottom completely, then move on to next with same method. Let set level for at least 24 hrs at room temp. This recipe will be in the next Betty Crocker cookbook haha

[dave_79]

Thanks! Do you use a particular kind of cloth to apply the metal polish? The last thing I want is any kind of fuzz in the bombs. Also you do still use acrylics and not enamels?

[oneaugusta]

I like old worn t-shirt material for polishing. Use both enamels and acrylics but Tamiya clears are acrylic, important to remember which is which when cleaning up the paint though, mineral spirits for enamel and alcohol for acrylics. I did use acetone for acrylics but it will dull the paint and alcohol works better, try and find the 91%

[dave_79]

Thanks, I don't know where to find 'rubbing alcohol' in the UK as the big hardware stores don't have it unless it goes by another name. Do I need to ask at a pharmacy? I have been using nail polish remover that contains acetone both for clean-up and dropping a tiny amount into the bombs before dropping the paint in. I take it from your posts this is not helping my cause and the alcohol will give the finish a better shine?

 

I am getting rather obsessed with this - its the holy grail, getting a perfect, shiny AND durable finish in the Select bombs & weights. I'm getting a bit closer with each attempt and if I can fine tune the process and use the right materials, I should be there soon!

[oneaugusta]

yes, probably pharmacy, acetone is not the thing to use for best results

[dave_79]

I believe the UK equivalent of rubbing alcohol is surgical or methylated spirits? Can anyone confirm this? If so I can pick this up from a hardware store I guess, but this stuff stinks IIRC. Do you really use that to clean up a putter and prepare cavities for paint?

[TPDawnPatrol]

Rubbing alcohol is defined 70% isopropyl alcohol over here, but is available in stronger concentrations up to 99%. Oneaugusta has mentioned 91%. I would try to find the same over there.

 

70% IPA has a medical advantage because it doesn't evaporate as quickly, giving it more time to kill organisms. But we're talking about cherry bombs!

 

Here's some 91% I found on eBay uk, you might find it on Amazon too.

[dave_79]

Many thanks for the IPA eBay link. Before I saw that I picked up some Surgical Spirit (UK equivalent of Alcohol) at the pharmacy.

 

It says it contains '95% industrial methylated spirit'. Is that the same as alcohol? Should I try this or am I better to just order that 91% IPA from eBay?

[dave_79]

Update: I left the putter still for 48 hours this time, and you can see the improvement from post #36. I put slightly less acetone in before painting this time, and made sure the head was totally flat using a mini level. I'm still a little scared of it being spoilt when the headcover goes on, but I won't be playing for a few days so will leave it off for the time being and it should have properly cured by the time I play next. I'm learning to be patient!

 

This is the first time I've begun to see the hourglass shape sparkle in the bombs, which is pleasing. Whilst it is the shiniest I've got them so far, I still think at some point I'll have a go from scratch, this time using metal polish on the bombs first, and also wetting them with 91% alcohol before painting instead of acetone (which I understand dulls the finish). If these two tweaks will get me the bright shine of the OP's example then I will be very happy!

[dave_79]

Ok so now I'm relatively happy with bombs & weights (will have another attempt soon with metal polish & alcohol - I've got some 91% IPA on the way), we come onto the lettering.

 

Nearly all my lettering attempts so far have been with nail polish. I think the Tamiya Clear acrylics look great in bombs & weights but don't seem to shine in lettering, well not on 2012 Select black mist finish putters anyway - they do look good on Studio Stainless & California lines though.

 

So, I still get bubbling in the letters, it really shows up in white paint too! It's easy enough to put acetone / alcohol into the bombs & weights but seems a bit trickier to get it evenly into the letters. But is this what you have to do in order to not get bubbly letters, or does it depend more on the paint you use?

 

Also are the Tamiya acrylics better at not bubbling? From what I've read, some think nail polish is easier to use, but I get bubbling every time. I've tried not stirring the NP first, stirring it gently and painting right away, and stirring it gently then waiting a few minutes before painting, all with the same results. I've tried applying NP generously with the built-in brush and also delicately with a toothpick. I can see the bubbles as soon as they form but can't get rid of them. I think I'll order some non-clear Tamiya acrylics from eBay and have a go with them.

 

One more thing I haven't tried is using needle point paint applicators for the lettering. Anyone recommend them?

 

OP if you are still out there, how exactly did you do your lettering? It looks fantastic and bubble free! Reason for not posting in Paint Fill 101 is that I'm trying to get my finish as close to yours as possible !

[oneaugusta]

I dab with alcohol then use a toothpick to apply paint, ok to overflow a bit. Don't expect the lettering to look as good as bombs because they won't have the shine.

[dave_79]

I dab with alcohol then use a toothpick to apply paint, ok to overflow a bit. Don't expect the lettering to look as good as bombs because they won't have the shine.

 

Thanks. So the Tamiya paints work better for you in letteing than NP does? I know I won't get the shine in the letters, I'd just like to not have any bubbles. Just buying some more Tamiya from the bay now.

[mckennwa]

In order to do the lettering I have always used non-clear Tamiya paints. To apply it the best things I have found is one of these:

 

http://hobbymasters....licator-bottle/

 

FYI, I have moved on my my NP2 that was in the original post. I still have it, but I have switched to a Cameron X7 with the same paint-fill colors and a SS Pistol 2.0 in black and blue.

 

 

[dave_79]

Thanks, I'm not a mallet man but that Futura looks great! I've read every single post on the Paintfill 101 thread and whilst many like to use a toothpick to dip paint into lettering & some a fine brush, I've noticed that my two favourite paintfills of the entire thread both had lettering done with needlepoint applicator bottles. That is the OP and post #578 from this page (his YouTube tutorials are very good):

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...1/page__st__570

 

I want to paint my sole like duytang's in that post, but keep the X23 clear blue in the bombs & weights, I think it'll look great. Man do I love X23 !

 

A couple of questions for the OP:

From your link, which needle size do you use for lettering? Needlepoint bottles are very hard to find in the UK, all I can find on eBay is a plastic tipped one which doesn't look fine enough. I may have to order these from across the water. . .

Is your white paint X2 and which blue do you use for the '7' ?

 

Here is my current job, it looks ok until the Tamiya paints and other stuff I've ordered arrives, but not happy with letter bubbles.

[oneaugusta]

Now that I look at your letter bubbles I don't think it's the paint bubbling I think it's from your cleanup and paint coming out. Either you didn't let it dry good enough before cleaning or wrong solvent for type of paint being used. Enamel = mineral spirits, Acrylic use alcohol and keep your cleanup cloth or rag wet but not sopping wet and use circular motion to clean letters.

[mckennwa]

I always let stuff dry overnight before cleaning up the excess and always use alcohol. Anything less and you're asking to remove too much. I know it's hard to wait, but it's the only way to get it done right.

 

As for the needle size, I bought a paint bottle applicator that came with 5 or 6 different sized needles. I used the second or third smaller for lettering.

 

As for paints, I use x-2 for white and x-14 for non-clear blue (I.e., what is in the "7" on the sole).

 

 

[dave_79]

Thanks for the tips guys. That lettering was done with nail polish and cleaned up with NPR.

 

I have ordered Tamiya non clear acrylics & alcohol which I'll use from now on for clear up. I will definitely leave lettering a long time to dry with this paint as patience paid off with the bombs & weights.

 

oneaugusta - that white paint bubbled as soon as it went onto the lettering for sure as I saw it happen. Perhaps the dark blue was affected by cleaning up too quickly. When the Tamiya paints come I will dab the lettering with alcohol first. Also I will try and get hold of these needlepoint applicators

[dave_79]

Cool, my Tamiya paints & alcohol arrived. Currently waiting patiently for my orange lettering to cure before I clean up properly with alcohol.

[dave_79]

Is the X2 White hard to get right or am I doing something wrong? I've only dabbed a tiny amount of alcohol into the SELECT lettering, but the white looks gloopy and messy as soon as it hits the metal. Is this too much alcohol (I barely put any in anyway) or not leaving the paint long enough to settle after stirring do you think? I'm sure I left the orange for a similar time and that came out exactly as I expected.

 

Do you even need to thin out X2 white? It looks cloudy in the bottle, not what I expected

[oneaugusta]

May not need much alcohol or any at all with opaque colors and the white is hard to mix, seems cloudy for quite a while. I have noticed this too but it usually looks great after it dries completely.

[dave_79]

May not need much alcohol or any at all with opaque colors and the white is hard to mix, seems cloudy for quite a while. I have noticed this too but it usually looks great after it dries completely.

 

Thanks again. Yeah, the white really was cloudy, not like the orange at all. Maybe I should have left it for a good length of time after stirring. It looked horrible as I applied it, but it is looking ok whilst drying so far. And I thought getting the bombs right was tough!

[dave_79]

One more question - Leaving the bombs a long time to cure seems to be the thing to do - I left my putter undisturbed for 48 hours. But do you leave lettering equally as long or should 24 hours be ok to clean up and start the next colour?

[oneaugusta]

One more question - Leaving the bombs a long time to cure seems to be the thing to do - I left my putter undisturbed for 48 hours. But do you leave lettering equally as long or should 24 hours be ok to clean up and start the next colour?

24 would be perfect