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Metric irons - EXCEL VBA APP


Howard_Jones

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Here you go, its still only ver 2.0 available, i have BIG ISSUES with the shaft DB in version 3...(copy rights of shaft specs, so it dont seems like i can make it public, but im still working on that...)https://ufile.io/lblrt8pa

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  • 3 months later...

Your profile is all new, this is the only 2 post you have made on this forum so i dont understand how you know about that app in the first place, so let me ask what is your intentions for use?

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Hello. First of all, I am Korean. English is poorly used translator. please understand. As I was interested in golf fitting, I was able to find a data source in Howard Jones while searching for a Google site because I couldn't find any data in Korea. Please share if possible.

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Here it is, but i managed to delete the user manual on page 1 when i tried to clean up visible HTML code...

.PAY ATTENTION TO RED FIELDs, THEY ARE WARNINGS ABOUT THE PROJECT YOU TRY TO MAKE - LOOK FOR CORRECTION BUTTONs TO FIX THEM OR ASK FOR HELP IF YOU CANT FIGURE IT OUThttps://ufile.io/zr5eaw88

 

 

 

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I’m a long time forum member, though haven’t posted much. I’ve done a lot of reading up on MOI have found Howard’s app incredibly helpful. I’m about to set up my irons for MOI at 3/8” starting with my 8 iron at standard length.

I need help with wedge length and SWP. I play a 45* PW and have a 48 and 52 that I use for full shots. The 9 on down are all currently 1/4” length difference with the same taper shafts. The 9 and PW have same BBGM and the two wedges are 1/2” higher.

current setup:

8 - 36.5 (D2)

9 - 36 (D2)

PW - 35.75 (D3), tipped 1/8

48 - 35.5 (D4), tipped 3/8

52 - 35.5 (D4), tipped 3/8

The 48 and 52 are same head weight and length, just different lofts. I’ve been able to tweak fields in the app to set up these lengths, headweights, etc. by basically making the GW my 48 and the SW my 52.

But now I’m not sure what SWP to use for the wedges and if I should keep the 1/4” lengths or do 3/8” from the 9 down. I think I want the same MOI, not higher resistance since these will be mostly full shot clubs. The comments in Howard’s app says to add a “V” ..but I’m not sure where to add the letter V and if that is the right thing to do here.

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That was a lot at once, if you are using a Windows PC, please use the SNIPPING TOOL, and take a snap shot of the screen of your set up in my app.

In general, we can use this formula between irons and wedges, when we want the wedges to have the same MOI value as Irons.

1.33 SWP / 8 = SWP pr 1/8" length difference.

Example, your PW, GW, and SW is all 2/8" shorter (from the #9 iron)

(1.33 SWP pr inch / 8 (1 inch) x 2/8" = 0.33

If we for the sake of example say your PW is just right as D3, then your GW becomes D3.33 and your SW D3.66

We should be very careful about going to short into wedges, if the #8 or #9 is a good fit now, i suggest you keep the standard 2/8" in wedges.

If you DO have room to go shorter and use 3/8" for wedges too, you can do that to solve a head weight issue instead of removing wgt if they comes out with a higher SW/MOI than target. Reducing 1/8" makes a drop of 0.75 SWP, so 2/8" shorter is 1.5 SWP down and 3/8" becomes 2.25 SWP down.

Please post that snap shot of the screen and explain the actual issue if my reply here could not solve it.

 

EDIT - The "V" was a check box to attach the wedges to the iron slope, but its removed in VER 2.0 since that one has a tuner for both play length and Head weight on wedges who gives the user more freedom to set the wedges as he likes.

So. just use 0.33 SWP as progression if length is 0.25" or 0.5 SWP progression if you change them to 3/8" like irons

 

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@Seattlegolfnut
Just be aware of whats POINT ZERO in the system for wedges. The system takes for granted that your STD GW is D3 and SW and LW is both D5, so all numbers would be "relative to those".
I managed to delete the user manual when i tried to clean up visible HTML codes, so this info want be found unless you set Irons to 12.7 mm and Wedges to 6.3. Then you will see whats point ZERO like this. The wedges will automatically be suggested to the same SW as the IRONS, here D2 as standard, thats why they comes up with RED FIELDS who suggest we shall remove weight (or adjust shorter) to get there.

[img]https://s3.amazonaws.com/golfwrxforums/uploads/77ICMKD9Z2MV/image.png[/img]

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Thanks for the clarification on the removal of the "V" checkbox. I'm still confused with how the app is calculating the SW progression into the wedges. It looks like the formula is using the iron progression of .49 instead of the wedge progression of .34 since cell H4 = FALSE. So even though I have 2/8" length difference, the SWP is still calculating at .49 per club. Is this correct? Do I just need to use the Wedge SW tuner to manually adjust to .34 difference between clubs, or should I change H4 = TRUE?

app.png

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YES , just change the value in H4 to TRUE...

never seen that error before, something has passed me when i modified it, H4 shall have TRUE as FIXED value in this version, i will have to look for where the check box ended, seems like its playing in the background somewhere....

When you change H4 to TRUE, this should be the return values

image.pngThanks for reporting that error, i have not looked at this version for about more than a year...moved on to ver. 3 and never looked back.

EDIT. there is another error there, the #9 to PW aint right...i will need some coffee, and ill look it all over

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Thanks Howard; I confirm I got the same results.

For the 9i (cell P56) I think we need the formula to reference the Iron SWP value, not the wedge formula with the If statement to check H4. Also, for all the iron calcs in row 56, I'd suggest referencing Cell C33 instead of E19, since C33 has the forumla for the SWP based on the drop down box choice. Cell E19 is fixed at 1.33 SWP / inch.

One more suggestion, for the Wedge SWP value in cell E33, suggest the formula: =(DataBase!E11/25.4)*F12 instead of a fixed calc of 1.33 / 25.4

I'll look forward to the V3 app when you can get all the shaft data sorted out. In the mean time, this one is really good!!

 

annotation-2020-08-10-110803.png

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@Seattlegolfnut
There want be no ver.3 its been explained before, but i cant find a DB for shafts thats not licensed (copyright), and most of them ive seen is a big mess anyway since uncut play length is a big jungle. There is no standard for how long a uncut #6 iron is as example, so some DBs only have a "39.00" shaft like it was a #5 iron no matter brand, but its not, so it would be a h...of a job to make tons of conversions in all directions, AND on top of that...the copyright issue. Im sharing this one for free, but could not have done it with a copyrighted DB included. Im really sorry for that, the interface was ready, but the DB issue stopped it.
The interface has 2 screens, the fist is almost like ver 2.0
[img]https://s3.amazonaws.com/golfwrxforums/uploads/GXK5B9XWIDF9/image.png[/img]The SHAFT COMPOSER with tuning options below
[img]https://s3.amazonaws.com/golfwrxforums/uploads/NI09L2BCB58K/image.png[/img]
But it cant be shared as freeware, thats the issue.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Thx Howard!

 

I would appreciate your input with regards to my "DIY 3/8" set" before i cut my shafts. The irons are +1/2", so my set currently looks like this. I would like to keep my 9i and shorter clubs the same length and dont care too much about their MOI/swing weight since I rarely take full shots with these clubs and like them a bit heavier.

 

grafik.png.d9150a5dbe636590b555392be0ee9ecb.png

 

So I came here because I'm not able to hit my long irons (applies to 2i and to a lesser extend to 3i) on a consistent basis. I did some testing with single length clubs but I decided to go this "DIY MOI - 3/8" route" first.

 

So I went to the range and taped off the grip of the 2i a full tape width (2") and I flushed shot after shot - I really couldnt believe how well I hit that club. Went back to 1" off and wasn't nearly as good as before (about 7/10 well struck shots). So I went with 1.5" off and slowly added some weight. So my sweet spot is somewhere in the 38 to 38.5" range for the 2i. My sweet sport with regards to added weight is around a 50ct coin (7.8 gm). This would be an approximate SW of C7 if I'm not mistaken.

Btw. I tried adding some coins in the middle of the shaft as well but started to hit it all over the face, so i quit this experiment.

 

I did some more testing and added some coins to my 7i and 9i to make them feel best for me, results:

9i - D5 (D3 was already quite pleasing, D5 looked a tad straighter but I think I lost a conciderable amount of distance, couldnt tell from range balls only).

7i (gripped it shorter a tiny bit) - D4 (same here, feld quite well from D2 onwards)

 

Ok, now I tried to make sense of my findings and realized that these SW are too far from eachother to combine them into a SW slope even if I'd take the D3 for the 9i - about double the amount of the 1.33SWP/inch.

Now I'm a bit confused and dont know how to proceed. But I do know that the shorter 2i and 3i are a great idea! So I would appreciate any suggestions. Perhaps I didnt dare to add enough weight and D0 doesn't feel too shabby with my shorter 2i 😇

 

kind regards, Deepy

 

 

PS: A thing I dont yet understand at this point is circled in red at the right: New SW after cutting will be D0.4 (makes sense), but swing weight correction needs to be 6 even though the difference between 0.4 and 4.98 is 4.4.

(I adjusted the Length between Irons to 9.5mm, adjusted the 8i length so that my longest club (in the screenshot #3, stamped on my CH #2) will be below 38.5" and set the STD SW to 0.5.)

grafik.png.62f7186246592eac2bf81d82b8066176.png

Edited by Deepy
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It looks like START VALUE for SW is set wrong, it say the set as standard started from D 0.5, so when your target is D5 (D.498) on the #9 who is CUT SHORTER, the sum replacement needed to get to your target will be 6 SWP.

Start value seems wrong, PLUS 0.5" and D0.5 dont match up, so make sure its correct, and set SW tuner to 0

This app is not really for FITTING like you try to use it, its for calks of options only, so if you wants to know how it really is done, this tread im linking to hear might b´give a better understanding of it all.
 

 

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12 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

It looks like START VALUE for SW is set wrong, it say the set as standard started from D 0.5, so when your target is D5 (D.498) on the #9 who is CUT SHORTER, the sum replacement needed to get to your target will be 6 SWP.

Start value seems wrong, PLUS 0.5" and D0.5 dont match up, so make sure its correct, and set SW tuner to 0

This app is not really for FITTING like you try to use it, its for calks of options only, so if you wants to know how it really is done, this tread im linking to hear might b´give a better understanding of it all.
 

 

Howard, for the record, I did the whole process again on my Srixon ZForged irons shortly after I posted that review and almost 2 years later they are still in my bag and I couldn’t be happier with my equipment. My iron game is as consistent as it’s ever been. 

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Im not sure i get this right.
What is the clubs ACTUAL specs as starting point?
Is it plus 0.5" on length with D0.5 as SW value?

If so, they must either be made using B-Wgt heads, or grip wgt is moving SW.
If grip wgt is the reason, then thats NOT the clubs starting specs.
 

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The actual specs are the one in the first picture. They are 0.5” long (7i is 37.5”) and SW is D0.5. I measured this with my SW scale. I also calculated the SW using balance point and total weight and results were within 0.5 SW points. Grips are Golf Pride Multi compound +4, standard size, so pretty much standard.

 

In my mind I had it wrong. It made perfect sense that the 1/2” long would reduce SW by 1.5, so D0.5 from the standard D2, but I realised it’s the other way around! So B-weight head makes sense. I’d assume that they are lighter by an amount but still differ by 7gm (at least a fixed amount) between neighbouring club heads? 

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OK - If #9 is your point ZERO at STD (plus 0.5"), with a SW of D0.5, your specs becomes like this

Since #9 is the actual starting point, we have to manipulate the LENGTH value for the #8, until #9 "zero out" at its standard length, THEN use the SW tuner to get the #9 irons SWW to become D0.5 

Thats needed to override it all since it was designed for a start from the #8

image.png.ab0ce03178ccf6ced5e75ea4373b00d7.png
 

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  • 1 year later...

@Howard_Jones I am curious if you can spare a minute and look at my snip below? I am basing the build off an 8 iron that measures to 37.125" ~D3.9. I've entered actual head weights into that section. Where I am lost is why the two sections that talk about adding weight would be different numbers? The 9 iron is what I have been trying to solve for without removing weight (although less than a gram would be easy to drill out from inside hosel), just curious why the top says -.7 grams needed versus actual on bottom is -.9. Did I miss something?

 

 

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