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Adjusting for increased spin with short irons


KAtkins

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I have recently started playing with an older set (Staff JP woods, fg-17s) and am using a B330-rxs to help increase spin. The spin seems appropriate for the woods, but I am having problems with the ball ballooning with the short irons. I am not having any issues with the higher lofts versus a modern set and can club up without issue, but the distance loss is not linear due to the increased spin.

 

Does anyone have any advice/techniques on how to gain some of this distance back or is it just the nature of playing a higher spin ball? I would assume those of you who are using the wound balata balls are doing something different, but I don't have any experience with them (wound balls were gone from production when I started playing).

 

Thanks for your time.

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I don't think there is a magic formula, or some secret, when playing a high spin ball. If it were me, since you are breaking new ground, I would experiment with a few different balls, and see what differences, if any, you encounter.

One can certainly tell the difference between a balata, and a non balata. But, unless you have access to a supply you are going to be playing the majority of your golf with a newer ball.

There are a few threads on balls that most of us in the wood and blade section have tested over the past couple of years.

Myself, I am partial to the Wilson Duo, and am looking forward to putting the Duo Spin in play, if it pans out as I anticipate it will. I also have had good success with the ProV, non X version,

My own opinion, when toting wood and forged blades, spin is your friend.

Am sure others with more knowledge will chime in.

Can't go wrong with the fg17's. Best club made in the 80's in my opinion.

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Modern golf balls are significantly better than balata ever were,there is a nostalgia about balata but the reality was that they simply were not that good,they were easily scuffed,cut or knocked out of shape.

To prevent ballooning I would suggest a look at the technique employed by Jimmy Demaret and Ben Hogan to hit low-flying approaches which is to hood the clubface and keep the hands forward.

I have played a lot recently with my 1980 Staff Tour Blades which are very similar to the FG17,most approaches I'll hit with a 9-iron and only go to the pitching wedge for very short shots around the green,mainly a confidence thing I suppose but with the slightly lower loft of a 9 I feel able to swing more easily and control the shot better.

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I guess my thought is that if you are swinging a short iron you are looking at the pin. If that's the case you want a high shot with a lot of spin normally.

You say you don't see it happening in your long irons. That leads me to believe you are doing something differently when you go to your short irons. If the ball is not ballooning until you hit say a 7 iron or more try playing all your shots exactly the same. Make sure you play the ball in your stance in the same place and that your swing is the same. If that doesn't take care of it l would check the lofts and the shafts. If the lofts are what they should be you may want to go to a lower kick shaft in your short irons. Just my thoughts. Hope you get it worked out.

All Forged, all the time.
The Sets that see regular playing time...
67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter.
71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter.
95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter.
2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

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