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5 hours ago, Wham49 said:

Picked these up for $12, promised myself no more, but what was I supposed to do. Can’t find the year on them, help if you can

B1EA5062-EB1B-4285-B60C-A8E5510AB899.jpeg

 

 

there is something about the look of those models that stands up.

let us know how they feel after you hit some shots.

 

 

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12 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

Those are 1955s

really?

 

wow, I would have guessed mid 60's. I have the 53 and 54's and these look much newer than that, they have that greaT top flite look at address.

 

they look as though they have less than 20 rounds on them, no dings, grooves are perfect pretty wide sole tbh

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10 hours ago, Wham49 said:

really?

 

wow, I would have guessed mid 60's. I have the 53 and 54's and these look much newer than that, they have that greaT top flite look at address.

 

they look as though they have less than 20 rounds on them, no dings, grooves are perfect pretty wide sole tbh

Do they say “stainless steel” on the hosel.  They stopped with stainless in 1956.  
 

I have a beat up set of those.   If you ever think of selling them let me know.  Not to be pushy or anything. 

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4 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

Do they say “stainless steel” on the hosel.  They stopped with stainless in 1956.  
 

I have a beat up set of those.   If you ever think of selling them let me know.  Not to be pushy or anything. 

yes they do say stainless, 

 

next spring I think, if I go hickory a lot I'm going to be getting rid of 10 sets or so. I should no matter what but at least that is a reason to put some money into it.

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11 hours ago, Wham49 said:

yes they do say stainless, 

 

next spring I think, if I go hickory a lot I'm going to be getting rid of 10 sets or so. I should no matter what but at least that is a reason to put some money into it.

I bought my set of '54 Synchro Dyneds from a golfer who shifted pretty much from classic/hickory to 100 percent hickory.  

Seems to be a common shift amongst "vintage" golfers.  I do hickory a few times a year but I always pull back as to I can see it becoming seriously addictive.  It's almost like a fine Bourbon.  If you take too much it's bound to get you down.

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4 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

Seems to be a common shift amongst "vintage" golfers.  I do hickory a few times a year but I always pull back as to I can see it becoming seriously addictive.  It's almost like a fine Bourbon.  If you take too much it's bound to get you down.


I keep looking at hickories, but I’m just not informed enough at this point to make the jump.  Took me 55 years to get to this point

with clubs I grew up with!

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44 minutes ago, SnowbirdTom said:


I keep looking at hickories, but I’m just not informed enough at this point to make the jump.  Took me 55 years to get to this point

with clubs I grew up with!

I had a set put together/refurbished by a hickory player which took a lot of the guess work out on selecting a play set.  I have another friend who lives nearby that is really into hickory and very handy and always offering to help.  Honestly without those two guys I probably would still be window shopping on eBay and never pulling the trigger due to concerns of picking up something in bad shape or damaged beyond repair.  I hear once you start fixing stuff on your own it's more fun.  I'm not very handy unfortunately.  

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8 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

I bought my set of '54 Synchro Dyneds from a golfer who shifted pretty much from classic/hickory to 100 percent hickory.  

Seems to be a common shift amongst "vintage" golfers.  I do hickory a few times a year but I always pull back as to I can see it becoming seriously addictive.  It's almost like a fine Bourbon.  If you take too much it's bound to get you down.


I can tell you from personal experience that hickory is indeed addictive. For me, it is the most satisfying form of the game. I still like to play classics, but will never have as many sets since there was more diversity in equipment in the hickory era and there is something special about playing a hickory style.

 

As one of the main organizers of vintage play, I have noticed that there are two kinds of vintage players. The first type play occasionally and generally approach the game playing a modern style with old clubs. The other group embrace the genre with a passion (especially hickory) and learn to play in a vintage style which is very satisfying and addictive. The hickory style when embraced works with classic and modern and does not get you down.

 

I play hickory over 100 rounds a year and classic is getting close to 50. I switch back and forth several times week and score virtually the same with modern, classic or hickory. It is much more satisfying breaking 80 with hickory or classics than modern. It really gets your juices flowing. 

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23 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

I bought my set of '54 Synchro Dyneds from a golfer who shifted pretty much from classic/hickory to 100 percent hickory.  

Seems to be a common shift amongst "vintage" golfers.  I do hickory a few times a year but I always pull back as to I can see it becoming seriously addictive.  It's almost like a fine Bourbon.  If you take too much it's bound to get you down.

Lol

 

ya it's a rabbit hole for sure, I have a almost complete set now, problem is you find one at a time. You are not finding high quality complete sets for $12 that’s for sure

 

its fun so far, just different strategies 

 

how much do you think a fair price is for the 55’s

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10 hours ago, Wham49 said:

 

how much do you think a fair price is for the 55’s

I’m not ColdWar, but have a fascination with the ‘55s also. The only irons I own are a set of these.

 

They’re worth what someone will pay, of course, but I’d guess between $100 and $200 for a matched full set 2i through 9i. 
 

Please let me know too, if you want to sell, and ColdWar and I can bid each other up. 🙂  I need a 7 iron to replace the original I lost, but will buy a whole set if I have to.

Edited by Brian1862
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1956 Top-Flite persimmon Model 84 woods (Driver,3,4)

1955 Top-Flite stainless synchro-dyned irons (2-9)

1955 Top-Flite stainless Tournament Model 10 iron (PW) and wedge (SW)

1955 Cash-In rocker putter

 

If you want forgiveness go to church … old man [Spalding] will not forgive you - Big Stu's Old Man

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On 11/23/2022 at 7:54 PM, Hickory4ever said:


I can tell you from personal experience that hickory is indeed addictive. For me, it is the most satisfying form of the game. I still like to play classics, but will never have as many sets since there was more diversity in equipment in the hickory era and there is something special about playing a hickory style.

 

As one of the main organizers of vintage play, I have noticed that there are two kinds of vintage players. The first type play occasionally and generally approach the game playing a modern style with old clubs. The other group embrace the genre with a passion (especially hickory) and learn to play in a vintage style which is very satisfying and addictive. The hickory style when embraced works with classic and modern and does not get you down.

 

I play hickory over 100 rounds a year and classic is getting close to 50. I switch back and forth several times week and score virtually the same with modern, classic or hickory. It is much more satisfying breaking 80 with hickory or classics than modern. It really gets your juices flowing. 

Dear sir

 

reading your comment, please explain what you mean by hickory or vintage style. I assumed that it was bouncing the ball onto the greens by landing it short and judging where to land it by the hardness and softness of the terrain and thus how short or close to the green to land it to get it to roll onto the front of the green. That’s what I gave been doing But being told that’s wrong you have to hit ground balls with very low lofted clubs and roll them through the fairway onto the green. I hit the ball low very low in fact with slightly higher lofted clubs, like 30-45 degree clubs bouncing the ball a couple times until it gets onto the greens 

 

I guess my question is am I doing the right thing or is it blasphemy?

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1 hour ago, Brian1862 said:

I’m not ColdWar, but have a fascination with the ‘55s also. The only irons I own are a set of these.

 

They’re worth what someone will pay, of course, but I’d guess between $100 and $200 for a matched full set 2i through 9i. 
 

Please let me know too, if you want to sell, and ColdWar and I can bid each other up. 🙂  I need a 7 iron to replace the original I lost, but will buy a whole set if I have to.

I guess my next thought is where to go to get good prices for my vintage blades of that caliber 

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5 hours ago, Wham49 said:

Dear sir

 

reading your comment, please explain what you mean by hickory or vintage style. I assumed that it was bouncing the ball onto the greens by landing it short and judging where to land it by the hardness and softness of the terrain and thus how short or close to the green to land it to get it to roll onto the front of the green. That’s what I gave been doing But being told that’s wrong you have to hit ground balls with very low lofted clubs and roll them through the fairway onto the green. I hit the ball low very low in fact with slightly higher lofted clubs, like 30-45 degree clubs bouncing the ball a couple times until it gets onto the greens 

 

I guess my question is am I doing the right thing or is it blasphemy?


First of all, I am really glad to see your interest in the older clubs. I also do not criticize those that only want to dabble in hickory or other vintage clubs such as classics which of course means different things to different players. I can only speak for myself.

 

I am one of the minority that are addicted to playing the older equipment and the hickory era is my favourite. Many within my group of friends that play hickory golf enjoy it but play it in a modern style which is the natural thing to do. They learn to play the ground game to a certain degree but approach the gapping and bag makeup in a modern way which is fine. I find myself in a group that is admittedly smaller that is definitely not a modern style, gapping is a lot more loose, changing shot shapes and swing tempo depending on the individual club characteristics. I have chosen to adapt my modern game to this style as well which is a personal choice which works for me but may not work for you.

 

In the late stages of the hickory era, the concept of what has become the modern set was established. There was the numbering and the set of irons were more uniform in their design and gapping that we see today. This is the idea of the matched set. The more I play hickory, the more I embrace the time when individual clubs were selected for their playability on an individual basis. Although, I like to have clubs with a decent swing weight, I like some variability in weight and flange which suits my approach to shotmaking.

 

I hope that I have been able to explain myself so that you understand my thinking. I wish we were closer and could get a chance to play. I suggest that you develop your own style and any suggestions I have made are just that, suggestions. I hope that you have as much fun as I do with the old equipment.

 

 

Edited by Hickory4ever
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On 11/25/2022 at 3:09 AM, Hickory4ever said:


First of all, I am really glad to see your interest in the older clubs. I also do not criticize those that only want to dabble in hickory or other vintage clubs such as classics which of course means different things to different players. I can only speak for myself.

 

I am one of the minority that are addicted to playing the older equipment and the hickory era is my favourite. Many within my group of friends that play hickory golf enjoy it but play it in a modern style which is the natural thing to do. They learn to play the ground game to a certain degree but approach the gapping and bag makeup in a modern way which is fine. I find myself in a group that is admittedly smaller that is definitely not a modern style, gapping is a lot more loose, changing shot shapes and swing tempo depending on the individual club characteristics. I have chosen to adapt my modern game to this style as well which is a personal choice which works for me but may not work for you.

 

In the late stages of the hickory era, the concept of what has become the modern set was established. There was the numbering and the set of irons were more uniform in their design and gapping that we see today. This is the idea of the matched set. The more I play hickory, the more I embrace the time when individual clubs were selected for their playability on an individual basis. Although, I like to have clubs with a decent swing weight, I like some variability in weight and flange which suits my approach to shotmaking.

 

I hope that I have been able to explain myself so that you understand my thinking. I wish we were closer and could get a chance to play. I suggest that you develop your own style and any suggestions I have made are just that, suggestions. I hope that you have as much fun as I do with the old equipment.

 

 

Thank you for responding 

 

it was a tough question admittedly. So I guess I am hearing that using clubs for their individual characteristics and swing  weights to hit a shot required and having more of loft gap or not depending on the club you have not just uniform is as much of it as which club you hit in which situation

 

cause to be honest I’m considering giving it up already because im feeling judged by the shots I’m playing and the club I’m using to hit those shots. My bag is a mix not uniform lofts, brands or swing weights. I’m not hitting the ball on the green but rather playing the terrain to get it in the green. Trying to keep it in the fairway run it up the correct side like the hole should be played But being told that I’m not playing correctly because it wasn’t on the ground long enough and the club I used is not what they would have played. It’s starting to take the fun out of it, I’ve played 3 rounds love the strategy and feel of hitting them but don’t want to continue if I’m looked at as a gorilla who is ruining their subtle game. I don’t think I’m playing that way at all to be honest. 

Edited by Wham49
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10 hours ago, Wham49 said:

I guess my next thought is where to go to get good prices for my vintage blades of that caliber 

eBay completed sales are one place.  However, I've had sets that I couldn't give away for $25 bucks then I'd list them on one of the collector groups and get $150 or so.  Not a huge score.  I've heard from older collectors these clubs have lost a a lot in value.  At my age (40) none of my peers have any desire for clubs from the 50s and 60s.  Most of them, if they even have nostalgia is for late 80s or early 90s stuff.  I've started taking sets straight to goodwill now.  A near mint set of '66 Dynapowers I had listed for months, I dropped them to a starting price of $25 and nothing.  At one point I figured its not worth my time to box, go to the ups store, get a tracking, etc.  So I dropped them off at the Goodwill.  Hope someone found them

 

Now that said, I've dropped $150-200 on mint sets that I was looking for, but I often wondered if I would have waited could I have gotten the seller to a lower price.

 

You will run across various sellers.  Some with no clue who think a store line set of Sam Sneads are worth thousands, some who have no clue and just want to get rid of their Grampa's clubs.  I've offered some people more than they were asking and they didn't care.  

 

My least favorite seller is the one who thinks their old gear is still worth it's price from height of the collecting days.  

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39 minutes ago, Wham49 said:

Thank you for responding 

 

it was a tough question admittedly. So I guess I am hearing that using clubs for their individual characteristics and swing  weights to hit a shot required and having more of loft gap or not depending on the club you have not just uniform is as much of it as which club you hit in which situation

 

cause to be honest I’m considering giving it up already because im feeling judged by the shots I’m playing and the club I’m using to hit those shots. My bag is a mix not uniform lofts, brands or swing weights. I’m not hitting the ball on the green but rather playing the terrain to get it in the green. Trying to keep it in the fairway run it up the correct side like the hole should be played But being told that I’m not playing correctly because it wasn’t on the ground long enough and the club I used is not what they would have played. It’s starting to take the fun out of it, I’ve played 3 rounds love the strategy and feel of hitting them but don’t want to continue if I’m looked at as a gorilla who is ruining their subtle game. I don’t think I’m playing that way at all to be honest. Was looking for some clarity to decide whether what I’m hearing is universal or if this person is too high on the horse 

 

I don't have the experience or probably skill @Hickory4everhas.  Although I play mostly 50s and 60s gear with sometimes a full set which could take away from the less clubs/shot creating aspect that a lot of hickory players use I do play the ground game.  It's come in handy now that I've gotten better at it.  I don't only use clubs from the 50s and 60s but I only read instruction from that time period and much of that emphasis the ground game.   I will often take a half set of vintage blades out and I feel like that experience is close to how I play hickory.   One such shot I use is the pitch and run with a 6i.  Most of my playing partners will do the flop shot and usually look like some sort of poor imitation of Phil Mickelson.  I guess that's who they watch on TV now?  I've played best ball tournaments with some neighbors.  I went from the guy everyone was afraid to have on their team to a guy who sometimes saves the day with his pitch and run, or maybe has the best ball on the fairway because he didn't over swing a modern driver and hit it 3 fairways over.

 

Who's looking at you and giving you a hard time?  I say screw em!  Play golf the way you want.

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13 hours ago, Brian1862 said:

I’m not ColdWar, but have a fascination with the ‘55s also. The only irons I own are a set of these.

 

They’re worth what someone will pay, of course, but I’d guess between $100 and $200 for a matched full set 2i through 9i. 
 

Please let me know too, if you want to sell, and ColdWar and I can bid each other up. 🙂  I need a 7 iron to replace the original I lost, but will buy a whole set if I have to.

No need to get into a bidding war my friend.  You need that set more than I!  I may steal your Spalding signature if you don't mind?

Instagram: cold_war_era_golfer 

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53 minutes ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

 

I don't have the experience or probably skill @Hickory4everhas.  Although I play mostly 50s and 60s gear with sometimes a full set which could take away from the less clubs/shot creating aspect that a lot of hickory players use I do play the ground game.  It's come in handy now that I've gotten better at it.  I don't only use clubs from the 50s and 60s but I only read instruction from that time period and much of that emphasis the ground game.   I will often take a half set of vintage blades out and I feel like that experience is close to how I play hickory.   One such shot I use is the pitch and run with a 6i.  Most of my playing partners will do the flop shot and usually look like some sort of poor imitation of Phil Mickelson.  I guess that's who they watch on TV now?  I've played best ball tournaments with some neighbors.  I went from the guy everyone was afraid to have on their team to a guy who sometimes saves the day with his pitch and run, or maybe has the best ball on the fairway because he didn't over swing a modern driver and hit it 3 fairways over.

 

Who's looking at you and giving you a hard time?  I say screw em!  Play golf the way you want.

But I don’t play flop shots, I play the ball on the ground for the most part, I’ll use a 40 or 45 degree Deloft it and play the same shot you are with the 6, I do that with my modern clubs, I don’t land the ball on the green I don’t hit it high the highest lofted club I hit all day was s couple 51 degrees to carry rough. Not sure what I’m doing that is wrong, especially since I watch my partner he hits the ball higher than me and hits the sane looking Chips as me, but with a less lofted club

 

my only thought is that it is because i use a more lofted. Which what is the difference; it is the shot shape  that matters not the tool used, I thought that  was the point, using your imagination to hit the shoot not a standard club I have to hit. restricting yourself by which club you use or which one is the “right” club goes against their hickory philosophy imo

 

maybe I don’t have a clue. 

Edited by Wham49
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3 hours ago, Wham49 said:

But I don’t play flop shots, I play the ball on the ground for the most part, I’ll use a 40 or 45 degree Deloft it and play the same shot you are with the 6, I do that with my modern clubs, I don’t land the ball on the green I don’t hit it high the highest lofted club I hit all day was s couple 51 degrees to carry rough. Not sure what I’m doing that is wrong, especially since I watch my partner he hits the ball higher than me and hits the sane looking Chips as me, but with a less lofted club

 

my only thought is that it is because i use a more lofted. Which what is the difference; it is the shot shape  that matters not the tool used, I thought that  was the point, using your imagination to hit the shoot not a standard club I have to hit. restricting yourself by which club you use or which one is the “right” club goes against their hickory philosophy imo

 

maybe I don’t have a clue. 

I don't play flops either.  I think my main point is to just play golf however you want to and not worry about other's notions.

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6 hours ago, Wham49 said:

But I don’t play flop shots, I play the ball on the ground for the most part, I’ll use a 40 or 45 degree Deloft it and play the same shot you are with the 6, I do that with my modern clubs, I don’t land the ball on the green I don’t hit it high the highest lofted club I hit all day was s couple 51 degrees to carry rough. Not sure what I’m doing that is wrong, especially since I watch my partner he hits the ball higher than me and hits the sane looking Chips as me, but with a less lofted club

 

my only thought is that it is because i use a more lofted. Which what is the difference; it is the shot shape  that matters not the tool used, I thought that  was the point, using your imagination to hit the shoot not a standard club I have to hit. restricting yourself by which club you use or which one is the “right” club goes against their hickory philosophy imo

 

maybe I don’t have a clue. 


The most important thing is to play your own way and try different shots with a variety of clubs. I think your friend means well but it is obviously frustrating you so I would ask him to lighten up a little. 
 

I personally use a variety of shots. My Jigger shots have been money for me and my flanged Mashie and Mashie Niblick are used a lot in a variety of situations. There usually are plenty of options and don’t be afraid to try them.

 

I hope you don’t get discouraged. Hickory (and classic) are fun and the more you play with them, the more creative you will become. 
 

 

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11 hours ago, cold_war_era_golfer said:

No need to get into a bidding war my friend.  You need that set more than I!  I may steal your Spalding signature if you don't mind?

Thank you, and steal away!

All Spalding_logo.png.e803fdccfa3e9c20a13bba147734de83.pngall the time

1956 Top-Flite persimmon Model 84 woods (Driver,3,4)

1955 Top-Flite stainless synchro-dyned irons (2-9)

1955 Top-Flite stainless Tournament Model 10 iron (PW) and wedge (SW)

1955 Cash-In rocker putter

 

If you want forgiveness go to church … old man [Spalding] will not forgive you - Big Stu's Old Man

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One of those lovely '55 Top-Flite synchro-dyned clubs, a 9-iron, in (simulated) action with Spalding's NEW DOT - with the exclusive DURA-THIN cover! 

 

dot_1955.jpg.87e1ee8ceb863dc11efe9a3b1686cd79.jpg

 

From an advert in the Saturday Evening Post magazine in 1955. The page offered on eBay.

All Spalding_logo.png.e803fdccfa3e9c20a13bba147734de83.pngall the time

1956 Top-Flite persimmon Model 84 woods (Driver,3,4)

1955 Top-Flite stainless synchro-dyned irons (2-9)

1955 Top-Flite stainless Tournament Model 10 iron (PW) and wedge (SW)

1955 Cash-In rocker putter

 

If you want forgiveness go to church … old man [Spalding] will not forgive you - Big Stu's Old Man

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    • 2024 Valero Texas Open - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or Comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Valero Texas Open - Monday #1
      2024 Valero Texas Open - Tuesday #1
       
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Ben Taylor - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Paul Barjon - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Joe Sullivan - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Wilson Furr - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Ben Willman - SoTex PGA Section Champ - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Jimmy Stanger - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Rickie Fowler - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Harrison Endycott - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Vince Whaley - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Kevin Chappell - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Christian Bezuidenhout - WITB (mini) - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Scott Gutschewski - WITB - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Michael S. Kim WITB – 2024 Valero Texas Open
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Ben Taylor with new Titleist TRS 2 wood - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Swag cover - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Greyson Sigg's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Davis Riley's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Josh Teater's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Hzrdus T1100 is back - - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Mark Hubbard testing ported Titleist irons – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Tyson Alexander testing new Titleist TRS 2 wood - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Hideki Matsuyama's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Cobra putters - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Joel Dahmen WITB – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Axis 1 broomstick putter - 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Rory McIlroy testing a new TaylorMade "PROTO" 4-iron – 2024 Valero Texas Open
      Rory McIlroy's Trackman numbers w/ driver on the range – 2024 Valero Texas Open
       
       
       
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