MACHINE Putters Picture Thread

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I wanted to share with you some more pics of the MACHINE 2014 Magnolia Headcovers.

 

Here is a photo of the new Limited Edition Magnolia Special headcovers with putters showing the best size of cover for each style of putter.

 

L to R:

 

Mini is best for Mini’s and M8’s.

 

Blade covers for standard shaped M1A, M2A (Blade Backs and Beefy Back), M5, M6, M9 (no. 9 flange), M10’s and M20 with Blade Back and Beefy Back.

 

Med. Mallets cover wider flanges like Tongue Backs, Double FatBacks, DB3 Backs, as well as mallets like the M11 with ScoopBacks.

 

Megalodon covers work for both M2A and M4M Megalodons, both XL and XXL.

 

I have also attached some more pics of the Magnolia Edition Megalodon Headcover.

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great week! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE Megalodon that Dave just finished building.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 1018 Carbon M4 Meritage Head with a 1018 Carbon Megalodon XL Flange and a 1018 Carbon Half Offset Gooseneck Hosel.

 

The Head and Flange on this MACHINE have been finished in our Hand Torched Oil Quenched Finish and the Hosel has been Copper Plated.

 

The Medallion on this MACHINE is a Custom Titanium Damascus Logo Medallion with a Torch Finish.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts!

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great weekend! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave is building for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 1018 Carbon M11 Converter Head with a 1018 Carbon #5 Scoop Back Flange and a Double Bend Shaft Over Stub Hosel. This MACHINE also features custom double sightlines.

 

This MACHINE has been finished in our Hand Torched Oil Quenched Finish.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts!

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[DB MACHINE]

Hey Everyone,

Here's a little twist for your Monday morning. We've started making our own golf balls!

MACHINE ART Balls to be more precise.

The first Prototype ART Ball is shown below. This is MACHINE Art Ball Proto T1, made for a great friend, supporter and collector of my work.

The manufacturing processes are really almost exactly the same as our putters. However, these are really just little sculptures. Art for art's sake, if you will. Unless you count the extreme functionality of using one as a paperweight. lol

Here are the specs for this one:

CNC milled from solid Aluminum Bronze Billet.
Custom "Alphanumeric Soup" Hand Stamping (a tribute to the first MACHINE ART putter).
Hand Finished and Hand Polished
Size: 1:1 Scale. 1.680" Diameter
Weight: 305 grams

I'm going to be making a series of Limited Editions for good friends and collectors in different materials and finishes, and even sizes. We'll be doing some historic old ball designs / dimple patterns, some CNC and some work on the Bridgeport manual mill and Hardinge tool room lathe. There will be layers of customization and personalization, and then some more creative "out of the box" twists and turns to keep it fun. And no, these don't conform! Free at last! haha

Hope you enjoy!

All the best,

-Dave

[attachment=2174281:MACHINEARTBalls_Proto1to1_T1_ER1.jpg]

[Brando5105]

That's amazing looking. I love to own one of these

[DB MACHINE]

Thanks Brandon!

You know I'd be honored to make you one!

And I am making one right now (Proto No2) that may look interesting to you??

[attachment=2174525:MACHINEARTBalls_Proto1to1_N2_WIP_5ap.jpg]

This is MACHINE ART Ball ProtoN2, Max Peen.



-DB

[Brando5105]

Dave,

That's just not right. #2 matches my albZ art putter with full peen perfectly

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great day! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave just finished for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 303 Stainless M4 Meritage Head with a 303 Stainless Megalodon XL Flange and a 303 Stainless Modular Center Shaft Hosel.

 

The Head, Hosel and Flange have all been finished in a Custom Antique Charcoal Rainbow Torch Finish. Dave flared out the finish towards the tips of the teeth.

 

The Medallion on this MACHINE is a Black Anodized Alloy Logo Medallion.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts!

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone had a great week! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave just finished for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 303 Stainless M4 Meritage Head with a 303 Stainless Deep Bite Bongo Back Flange and a 303 Stainless Modular Center Shaft Hosel.

 

This MACHINE also features a Custom Aluminum Bronze Spacer and a Mokume Gane Logo Medallion.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts!

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great weekend! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE Putter that Dave just finished for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 303 Stainless M2A Converter Head with a 303 Stainless Heavy Fat Back Notch Back Flange and a 303 Stainless Full Slant Plumber Neck.

 

The Medallion on this MACHINE is a Custom Engraved Black Anodized Alloy Logo Medallion.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts!

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[w8liftr]

Beautiful stuff as always Dave!
Chris shoot me an email bro. I would like some info on some of the new stuff!
Sorry I haven't been around much, youth baseball has zapped all my time.

[choeppner]

Hey Tommy!

Thanks for the post Just shot you an e-mail

Thanks in advance

-Chris

[parallax]

Who knows the secret to removing a shaft/hosel from a MACHINE putter?

Removing the screw and pulling with arms doesn't seem to be enough....

[choeppner]

[center][b][u]MACHINE PUTTER EPOXIED IN HOSEL REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS [/u][/b][/center]


First, you need a good strong vice mounted on a firm surface, preferably on or near the corner of a workbench, and preferably some aluminum angle pieces to put in the jaws. Next you should protect the head with masking tape on the face and back flange. Make sure the tape doesn’t cover the heel of the face, as you will need that to stick out about an inch from the jaws.

Next you need a longer #6/32 screw, but it doesn’t have to be a torx head. Hex or even slot or Philips head are fine. Preferably 1.5” long, but 1.25” or even 1.0” will work. Longer will work too, but tend to bend the longer they are.

Next you need a hot air gun or torch (which is what I use). Regular propane is fine, as MAP gas can get too hot if you aren’t careful. You will also need a large metal hammer with flat face (or small hand held sledge hammer).

Use leather gloves and protective eye glasses or face shield. Sometimes hot epoxy can spatter, and you don’t want that stuff flying on you anywhere.

Put the putter in the vise upside down, with the sole pointing up and even with the top of the vice, and the heel sticking out approximately one inch so you can see the hosel junction. The shaft should be accessible and free to hold onto as you remove it. Masking tape should be flush with the edge of the jaws and not exposed as it can burn and melt on the face discoloring it.

The loft on the face will help hold it in place as you tighten firmly, but don’t over tighten to dent the head or anything (the softer aluminum jaws and masking tape should also help protect the head).

Heat the sole of the putter where the connection screw is, and using a Torx wrench (#T-15 size), unscrew the connection screw. Use enough heat and time until the screw comes out easily. Put the screw down to cool in a safe place (another piece of aluminum plate or angle piece, or ashtray, etc.

Heat the junction of the head and hosel moving your heat source evenly around all sides, including the face, sole, and back, and pointing down the now empty hosel connection screw port. Working quickly now, heat the tip end of the longer screw until hot (orange hot at the hottest, but not red or white hot). Insert the tip into the port and screw in approx. .250” (with whatever tool works with that screw).

Continue to heat the juncture of the hosel and head, until you see slight smoke rising from the area. Keep moving the heat so as not to burn the head or cause discoloration. When you see the smoke, and / or smell it, start tapping the end of the longer screw in a straight downward motion. Smaller, more frequent hits should start the hosel moving down without too much force. When it starts to move, put down the heat source and hold the shaft while you continue to tap the longer screw until it is completely free from
the head.

Put down the hammer and use the longer screw tool to unscrew the longer screw, take it out with your glove and rest in safe cooling spot.

You can use a stiff brush, Scotchbrite or sandpaper to remove the old epoxy from the hosel tip, taking care to not scratch above the square mortise joint. Use a pick and then Dremel tool to remove any old epoxy down in the hosel port. Also remove any epoxy from the connection screw using Scotchbrite.

You are then ready to experiment with the new pre-loaded hosel shaft grip combos. When experimenting, be sure to use a locking washer on the connection screw, and use the low strength Loctite on the tip of the screw. Tighten, but do not over tighten as you can break the screw if you really torque in it. You can disassemble the Loctite and locking washer connection with just the Torx wrench, no need for the vice and all the heating, etc.

If you arrive at a combination that you want to stay with, we recommend epoxying for a semi=permanent bond, and to avoid any rattling, buzz or slight movement that can occur without the epoxy bond. Let me know if you need any pointers on that!

Please let me know if this helps. Please call or email if you need any assistance.

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great week! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave just finished for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 1018 Carbon M4 Meritage Head with a Hot Salts Gun Metal Blue Finish, an Alloy Megalodon XL Flange with a Black Anodized Finish and a 1018 Carbon Full Slant Half Offset Plumber Neck with a Hot Salts Gun Metal Blue Finish.

 

This MACHINE also features a Custom Blue Anodized Alloy Spacer and a Skull Sight Dot.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone had a great week! I wanted to share with you a new Headcover and Grip offering from MACHINE Putters. These Grips and Headcovers are made for us by Best Grips.

 

The grips and headcovers are made from oil rubbed black baseball glove leather, and look and feel great!

 

We will have the first samples in hand Monday, and a short limited edition first run within a week. I'll be posting more pics as soon as they arrive

 

The Headcovers are $100.00 and the grips are $60.00

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[w8liftr]

I like the sound of the baseball glove leather. Is it new leather or reclaimed from old gloves?

Are the grips standard or oversized?

[choeppner]

Thanks Tommy!

The grips are Standard Sized.

They are brand new leather from the makers of leather for a majority of Major League baseball gloves.

These grips and covers are hand made in Texas for us by Best Grips.

Thanks

Chris

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great weekend! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave just finished for a Customer.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 1018 Carbon M11 Converter Head with a 1018 Carbon #5 Scoop Back Flange and a Double Bend Shaft Over Stub Hosel.

 

The Head and Flange have both been finished in our Hand Torched Oil Quenched Finish.

 

This MACHINE also features custom Double Sightlines on the Head and Flange.

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[choeppner]

Hey Guys,

 

I hope everyone is having a great week! I wanted to share with you a Custom MACHINE that Dave just finished building for a Customer at our Fitter West Coast Custom Clubs in Bellevue, Washington.

 

This MACHINE features a Custom 303 Stainless M20 Converter Head with a 303 Stainless Beefy Back Flange and a 303 Stainless Dot Pill Cut Plumber Neck Hosel.

 

The Head, Hosel and Flange have all been finished in a Morning Dew Satin Rainbow Torch Finish.

 

The Medallion on the MACHINE is a Custom Damascus Steel Medallion with an Acid Etch Finish,

 

We look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

Thanks in advance

 

-Chris

 

[rymail00]

^^^^^^ my favorite MACHINE putter head. Also i like the thick flange.

[choeppner]

Thanks! Appreciate the comment

-Chris

[Brando5105]

That would be my M20!!! I dreamed of this putter and Machine made it happen

[rymail00]

[quote name='Brando5105' timestamp='1398989031' post='9214403']
That would be my M20!!! I dreamed of this putter and Machine made it happen
[/quote]

Great choice.

[choeppner]

Thanks Brandon!

Appreciate the comments!

Chris

[redraider1685]

Can't wait to see mine the wait is so hard

[choeppner]

Thanks! Let me see what I can do about pics

Thanks in advance

-Chris

[scratchswinger]

Wow- you guys make some cool looking putters. Nice work!

[choeppner]

Thanks! We appreciate the comment!

Chris

[Graymulligan]

Hey Chris, I've been looking at putting together "My" machine, so that the wife can order it for my birthday. (Knowing her, it'll end up being 2, one for me, one for her) The only thing I can't seem to find on the website is the weight of the anodized inserts.

I'm looking at an m2a (225g), beefyback (80), and plumbers neck (40) for a total of 345 grams, which is a little under where I play now, and I love the look of the anodized blue spacer, so I figure it's likely that the math works.

I'm assuming the spacers aren't a ton of weight, but I don't see anything with the "official" figures on the site. Can you let me know what the spacers weigh, please?