Getting some work done.

rattler917 · July 8, 2008

Cost?

On average, how much should a butt trim + regrip (and grip of course) cost? I want to shorten my rapture by an inch for more control. With that in mind, how much SW is going to be lost? I know this has already been asked 1000's of times, but i thought i might as well ask. Best to add it back on? Lead tape? Thanks

BDLz · July 8, 2008

If it's someone I know, I usually only charge them for the regrip and don't charge anything extra for the trim. Wouldn't think anyone would charge you more than a couple of bucks though. All total, it shouldn't probably cost you more than $5 plus the cost of the grip.

BDLz

*sigh* · July 8, 2008

If it's someone I know, I usually only charge them for the regrip and don't charge anything extra for the trim. Wouldn't think anyone would charge you more than a couple of bucks though. All total, it shouldn't probably cost you more than $5 plus the cost of the grip.

BDLz

Ya, it's not exactly an in depth process. Remove the grip, mark where to cut, cut, install grip.

I can't imagine more than $5 either...

rattler917 · July 8, 2008

Thanks, i was hoping it would be under $10.

Awalkspoiled · July 8, 2008

Do you want it trimmed or do you want it set up properly? If you want it trimmed then any friend with a grip-remover tool and a hacksaw can do it. Swingweight will drop about 6 points.

If you want it set up properly then a pro will watch you swing several clubs, then pull the grip, pull the shaft, spine/FLO, trim both butt and tip for proper performance at the shorter length/higher clubheadweight, install a tipweight, reinstall shaft, then reinstall grip. $40-60 depending on where you live and how much time he spends on the range with you..

rattler917 · July 8, 2008

Quick thought: if i were too add lead tape to the head to bring up the sw, wouldn't that make it play softer? if it equated to a noticable difference, should i butt AND TIP trim to accomodate the addition of lead for SW? 2nd question: that little amount of lead tape should NOT effect flight in any appriciable way, right?

Awalkspoiled · July 8, 2008

Quick thought: if i were too add lead tape to the head to bring up the sw, wouldn't that make it play softer? if it equated to a noticable difference, should i butt AND TIP trim to accomodate the addition of lead for SW? 2nd question: that little amount of lead tape should NOT effect flight in any appriciable way, right?

1) Exactly - see my previous post.

2) 6 swp is a lot of lead tape (10.5 gm - almost a foot of high-density 1/2"). It is definitely enough to affect flight if it's all in one place. Distributed around all it will do is soften the shaft, which is why you'd tip-trim a little - how much depends on the shaft - with an NVS I'd go 3/8" tip and 5/8" butt.

rattler917 · July 9, 2008

Would hot melt be a viable option? do most regular shops offer hotmelt?

MarkinTN1 · July 10, 2008

9 gram tip weight would be a better option, lead tape gets old fast.

rattler917 · July 10, 2008

Would the tip wieght make it more draw biased?

CosmosMpower · July 10, 2008

I cut 1" off my V2 that came in my Nickent 3DX square. It dropped the swing weight from D3 to D0 and it felt great. Before you start adding back a ton of weight cut it down and hit it a few times then decide. Turns out I like a lighter swing weight and my clubhead speed went from 90-91 up to about 94 after the work with a lot better control/accuracy.

They told me 4 bucks plus the cost of a grip but ended up just charging me for a random cheap grip even though they put a Winn DSi on it which I love by the way.

MarkinTN1 · July 10, 2008

no, no, no, doubtful that even a weight placed on the toe would make it draw bias, an effective draw bias is achieved in the clubhead design process by setting the face closed 1.5 degrees or more. Some might argue that it could alter or move the heads center of gravity (COG=sweet spot) but it takes around 18 grams before you start to do that. It would have an effect on shaft flex, you could simply use the shaft manufacturers tipping instructions for a 3 wood.

I've had to edit this twice, I didn't look at your sig to what shaft you had in the club, I think Cosmos is right for all the time, money and trouble, take an inch off the end of the nvs, regrip it, and find the fairway, choke down a little if need be.

CosmosMpower · July 10, 2008

no, no, no, doubtful that even a weight placed on the toe would make it draw bias, an effective draw bias is achieved in the clubhead design process by setting the face closed 1.5 degrees or more. Some might argue that it could alter or move the heads center of gravity (COG=sweet spot) but it takes around 18 grams before you start to do that. It would have an effect on shaft flex, you could simply use the shaft manufacturers tipping instructions for a 3 wood.

I've had to edit this twice, I didn't look at your sig to what shaft you had in the club, I think Cosmos is right for all the time, money and trouble, take an inch off the end of the nvs, regrip it, and find the fairway, choke down a little if need be.

Everyone freaks out about swing weights, specs, draw weighting etc etc. Just cut it down it feels too long and awkward and you WILL hit it better. The guide in the sticky at the top of this forum says 1/2" cut off is 3 swing weight points but I'm not sure if that's right..

I cut off a whole inch from the 3dx square from 45.5 to 44.5 and went from a D3 to a D0. I did replace the stock rubber grip with a Winn dsi grip so I'm not sure how much of a part that plays. I'm planning to cut down the 4DX I just received at lunch from 45 to 44.5 and regrip with another Winn dsi since I like the length of the square and the swing weight. The 4DX starts half an inch shorter and at D2, I figure cutting it half an inch should make it about equal to the square in length and swing weight. From there I'll see which one I like and sell one.