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Loose Ferrule Problem?


Dean NC

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noticed while cleaning them today
so i got to play yesterday and when i was cleaning the clubs today I noticed that all of the ferrules are loose on my irons.
meaning that they slide up and down and spin freely on the shaft

should I be concerened or are they supposed to be loose?
these are about 3yrs old

If not supposed to be loose, what do i use to "glue" them back to the tip of the clubhead?

thanks
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I have seen quite a few slightly loose ferrules in my collection but no loose clubheads. Interestingly enough, for what it is worth, most of the loose ferrules have been in relatively recent MacGregors (irons). Maybe just random chance. I think what happens is that it is far easier to have all ferrules identical, so they are made to fit a parallel tip (0.370") shaft. That works pretty much ok for taper tip 0.355, especially if you let a bit of epoxy slop under the ferrule as you install the head. But it is still a slight bit loose and the vibration of repeated hits can make the ferulle move if it is on a taper tip shaft. An obvious gap between ferrule and head does not necessarily indicate a loose head.

 

And also, FWIW, the only iron head I have ever had come off unintentionally was from a broken shaft at the hosel.

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Were these clubs reshafted? There is a special Rac ferrule with an undercut area that covers the hosel. Some epoxy should fix the problem in any case.

TM M1 , Matrix White Tie
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Callaway Steelhead XR 3-AW, Recoil 760
Cal. Mack Daddy 2 54* ,Recoil 95
Cal. MD PM 58*, Recoil 95
Rife Bellevue, SNSR Red 104
Super Stroke S-tech grips
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I would just re-glue and see what happens. Most of the time if your ferrules are loose, they just came loose from the hosel. A word of caution. If the ferrule and hosel have separated and are not loose, you may have a clubhead starting to work loose. If this happens, measure the playing length of the iron and see how it compares to the iron that is stronger and weaker than this iron. This should alert you that you will have to remove the clubhead, clean everything and then epoxy.

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Run them under hot water for a bit and slide them back down to the hosel.

 

 

I was cleaning with warm water and that may have got them loose, will check to see if they stick later today.

 

Were these clubs reshafted? There is a special Rac ferrule with an undercut area that covers the hosel. Some epoxy should fix the problem in any case.

 

these are the original shafts, so if the above doesn't work i'll put a little expoy on it.

 

The heads are not loose at all, that's why I wasn't sure if the loose ferrule would even be a issue to be concerned with.

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Hi,

 

I had theses issues on 3 Titleist 905R drivers (it drives me nuts)

latest driver I bought from Titleist see sig. 905R 8,5° with 757 X and after one range session the ferruel gets loose completely (just horrible).

 

I was so angry due to the fact that it happened the third time that I bought another Cally back up driver 9,5° V2 75X. I am more or less done with Titleist drivers (at least with 905R) and will sell the ones which are left over time.

 

Best regards

SJW

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hot/warm water is the culprit. Don't use warm water to clean clubs! Or atleast dont submerge them in warm water.

 

is this a fact...??

 

i normally use warm/hot water, but i only submerge the head area...i dont sink the club past the hosel will this warm up the epoxy?

 

the warm/hot water makes it so much easier to get dried up mud n crap off the clubs

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Epoxy cracks, just re-epoxy the ferrule/

 

Slide the ferrule up, goop a little epoxy in there, slide it down, a clean the excess off with a wet-wipe or paper towel with water. Let sit for a few hours.

 

Cleaning your clubs with warm water had nothing to do with your ferrule issue. Just stress of impact can crack the epoxy free of the ferrule. NOT A BIG DEAL.

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Loose ferrules are not that unusual. More than a couple are. First: Make sure that the clubheads have not loosened by twisting them vigoriously and measuring the club lengths. You will probably find them to be fine. When assembling clubs, expoxy is used inside the hosel and on the shaft tip. It's wise to use a small bit of epoxy under the ferrule to adhere it to shaft position desired. What people forget is that epoxy doesn't adhere well to chrome or painted surfaces. Therefore , you must sand the small area on the shaft where the ferrule will be position to make the epoxy "stick". This, in most cases, is the reason that ferrules slip and slide. After three yrs. I don't think it's much more than that. Easily fixed. Good Luck!

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Cleaning your clubs with warm water had nothing to do with your ferrule issue. Just stress of impact can crack the epoxy free of the ferrule. NOT A BIG DEAL.

 

 

I'm afraid it does have something to do with it. go dump a few clubs in a bucket of warm water, normal non collared ferrules that aren't done well with epoxy will slide away with ease.

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I couldn't imagine not being able to wash my babies in hot water. I think I've seen just about every Manufacturer have a ferrule or two or more fail.

On my builds now, I automatically prep the shaft halfway up the ferrule then enlarge the ferrule bore till it slides easily up and down the shaft, then epoxy them down, no more failures. It could still be an issue if the epoxy you use doesn't absorb shock well.

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A lot of this depends on how far up the shaft the manufacturer does (or does not) abrade the shaft. On irons, in particular, if the shaft hasn't been abraded (the chrome plating roughed up), the ferrule will come loose even if it did get a bit of epoxy at assembly due to the fact that the smooth plastic and the hard chrome don't offer the epoxy anything to get its "teeth" into. The same can occur, though less frequently, on graphite shafts if the protective coating of the shaft hasn't been scraped (not sanded, scraped) off the shaft.

 

A bit of epoxy in the joint area, slide the ferrule back down until seated flush with the clubhead and you're good to go, again assuming that there's enough abrasion for the glue to have something to bond to.

 

Why does it happen? Who knows, but two prime reasons would be not enough adhesive being dispensed during the assembly process, clubs being handled subsequently prior to the adhesive having time to really cure (as opposed to just developing "tack"), and/or variations in shaft diameter and hosel sizes such that tolerances "stack"-shafts at the lower end of spec and hosel openings at the high end of tolerances-in a way that allows such a condition to occur.

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