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Scotty GoLo sole plate help!


blink3665

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I'm trying to add some massive weight to my Scotty GoLo. I have 20 gram weights already. I want to add 20 more grams. I have been playing with lead tape on the sole, but I want a cleaner look. There is not enough space behind the weights to fill the needed amount of Tungsten. Sooo... is there any room behind that GoLo plate? How do I get that thing off? Does anyone know the actual size of the Torx bit needed?

 

Thanks!

Callaway Rogue ST Max - Tensei AV White - 8*
Taylormade M3 HL - MFS5 White Tie 60S -0.75" (42.5")

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP - 4-G - Recoil 95 S - 2* upright

Callaway X-JAWS - 52/58*

Odyssey OWorks 2ball  -  34" - 1* loft - 71* lie
Slighter Proto 1 #9/Del Mar design - High Toe - Long neck - Deep Milled face - 33", 370gr, lie 71*, loft 4*

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LOL... I don't know why I didn't think of that...

My original question still stands though. Does anyone know about the Torx bit?

Callaway Rogue ST Max - Tensei AV White - 8*
Taylormade M3 HL - MFS5 White Tie 60S -0.75" (42.5")

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP - 4-G - Recoil 95 S - 2* upright

Callaway X-JAWS - 52/58*

Odyssey OWorks 2ball  -  34" - 1* loft - 71* lie
Slighter Proto 1 #9/Del Mar design - High Toe - Long neck - Deep Milled face - 33", 370gr, lie 71*, loft 4*

WITB Link

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I was just thinking for 25 bucks you can save yourself the issue of Threadlocked torx screws in aluminum, which given the size of the torx head on those screws would being surprisingly easy to strip.

But yea, lead tape under the sole plate is a great option but i would think your area under there wouldn't being thick enough and as a result when you reattach your sole plate will not be level with the body of the putter.

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That's what happened when I tried putting tungsten behind the the weights. There wasn't enough space to fit 10 grams worth and the weights weren't even with the bottom.

Callaway Rogue ST Max - Tensei AV White - 8*
Taylormade M3 HL - MFS5 White Tie 60S -0.75" (42.5")

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP - 4-G - Recoil 95 S - 2* upright

Callaway X-JAWS - 52/58*

Odyssey OWorks 2ball  -  34" - 1* loft - 71* lie
Slighter Proto 1 #9/Del Mar design - High Toe - Long neck - Deep Milled face - 33", 370gr, lie 71*, loft 4*

WITB Link

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I added 45 grams of tungsten into the shaft and corked it. It was a 41" MID @ 385g headweight.Now its 430g.

R9 460 10.5 L flex 46"

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COBRA Baffler XL 22* 25* 28* hybrids
Hand ground Bazooka QLS 7-PW

Component Wedges 50* 54* 60* 63*
(hand grinds) torched 

Heavy Putter B2m 38" Ust FF shaft
Rife Switchback XL (custom long neck) 34" UST FF 

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It's actually not a torx, but a 1.5 mm hex. And there is a fair amount of space underneath it. There is a cavity milled out under the sole plate. And
mine is a heavier head since it started out as a 43" belly, so I would assume that on lighter heads there might even be a bigger cavity under there.
Whether or not there's room for 20 grams I don't know, but there has to be a lot more room under the plate than under the weights.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

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[quote name='halliedog' timestamp='1358909626' post='6280331']
It's actually not a torx, but a 1.5 mm hex. And there is a fair amount of space underneath it. There is a cavity milled out under the sole plate. And
mine is a heavier head since it started out as a 43" belly, so I would assume that on lighter heads there might even be a bigger cavity under there.
Whether or not there's room for 20 grams I don't know, but there has to be a lot more room under the plate than under the weights.
[/quote]

Perfect. Thanks! I was about to come back to this thread to report that it is not a Torx. I went out and bought a set of torx wrenches and neither the 6 nor 7 worked... It looks like another trip to Lowes is in the works!

Callaway Rogue ST Max - Tensei AV White - 8*
Taylormade M3 HL - MFS5 White Tie 60S -0.75" (42.5")

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP - 4-G - Recoil 95 S - 2* upright

Callaway X-JAWS - 52/58*

Odyssey OWorks 2ball  -  34" - 1* loft - 71* lie
Slighter Proto 1 #9/Del Mar design - High Toe - Long neck - Deep Milled face - 33", 370gr, lie 71*, loft 4*

WITB Link

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You may also want to heat up the screws prior to removal. If you get it off post up some pics for all to see.

Titleist TSR 3 9.0 Ventus TR Black 6S
Titleist TSI 3 15 Ventus Velocore black 7S
Titleist TSI 19 Ventus Velocore 85X
Titleist T100s 5-P Modus 105
Tileist T100s 49 SM8 5812
2020 Scotty Cameron NP2 LaGolf

2022 Scotty Cameron X 7.5 Stability Tour
Titleist Pro V1X
Dos Equis Lager
Balls deep, Boom

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OK - First things first. This is the cavity that the sole plate covers:[attachment=1502337:IMG_0505.JPG]
It seems fairly deep, BUT, as you can see from this photo:[attachment=1502345:IMG_0502.JPG]
the underside of the sole plate has "ribs" through it which will limit the amount of weight you can put under there. I didn't
remember these from when I first removed it. I'm not sure what size tungsten "weights" you have but you may be able to fit them in
between the "ribs".

Also, I don't know if you can tell from the pic, but the screws are different lengths and only fit a certain way. The 2 longer ones
go on bottom (if you're holding it so that you can read the writing). They will not go in flush if you try to put them in the top.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

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Wow. Fantastic info! I will get the heat gun out and go to work. The 1.5mm hex I have is pretty long and seems to flexable (twisting). I may try to get one that is shorter? I have Tungsten powder, So getting it to fit in the cavities shouldn't be an issue. I was going to mix it with some epoxy, so I should be able to mold it to the ribs.

Callaway Rogue ST Max - Tensei AV White - 8*
Taylormade M3 HL - MFS5 White Tie 60S -0.75" (42.5")

Mizuno JPX 923 HMP - 4-G - Recoil 95 S - 2* upright

Callaway X-JAWS - 52/58*

Odyssey OWorks 2ball  -  34" - 1* loft - 71* lie
Slighter Proto 1 #9/Del Mar design - High Toe - Long neck - Deep Milled face - 33", 370gr, lie 71*, loft 4*

WITB Link

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[quote name='blink3665' timestamp='1358985083' post='6285293']
Wow. Fantastic info! I will get the heat gun out and go to work. The 1.5mm hex I have is pretty long and seems to flexable (twisting). I may try to get one that is shorter? I have Tungsten powder, So getting it to fit in the cavities shouldn't be an issue. I was going to mix it with some epoxy, so I should be able to mold it to the ribs.
[/quote]
I used a kit that I picked up at either HD, Lowes, or a hobby store, can't remember now. It has micro hexes, torx, flat and regular drivers, all
interchangeable in a screwdriver type handle. The handle allowed me to use downward pressure while twisting to avoid stripping, because as you mentioned,
the 1.5 isn't an exact fit but extremely close. I didn't use any heat by the way, but it couldn't hurt to loosen the locktite.

WITB:
Mizuno GT/ST-180 Dr w/ EvenFlow White 6.0 75
Mizuno GT-180 3wd w/ Tensei CK White 75
TM UDI 1, 3 w/ KBS C-Taper Lite S
TM P770 4-PW w/ TT Tour Concept Satin
TM Milled Grind 52* LB and 58* SB
Odyssey O-Works 7S Tank

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  • 2 years later...

I removed the sole plate and did the same thing with washers in a Cameron x2. No ribs in the x2 plate though. Another option for the weighting is to press in some putty and press fishing sinkers or bb's into the putty for the weight.

"Of all the hazards, fear is the worst" - Sam Snead
WITB: PXG 0311 ~ Ping Anser 4w @16.5 ~ Cobra F6 Baffler @18.5 ~ Titleist T300 4-P ~ Titleist Vokey 48, 54, 58 ~ Cleveland HB 8

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[quote name='halliedog' timestamp='1358984711' post='6285269']
OK - First things first. This is the cavity that the sole plate covers:[attachment=1502337:IMG_0505.JPG]
It seems fairly deep, BUT, as you can see from this photo:[attachment=1502345:IMG_0502.JPG]
the underside of the sole plate has "ribs" through it which will limit the amount of weight you can put under there. I didn't
remember these from when I first removed it. I'm not sure what size tungsten "weights" you have but you may be able to fit them in
between the "ribs".

Also, I don't know if you can tell from the pic, but the screws are different lengths and only fit a certain way. The 2 longer ones
go on bottom (if you're holding it so that you can read the writing). They will not go in flush if you try to put them in the top.
[/quote]

The plate isn't even functional. it's more aesthetic than anything. you could pack some lead tape it the cavity and leave the plate off. The structure around the plate will allow you to sole the putter evenly

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  • 4 months later...

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