DIY scotty Cameron tei3 Newport two restoration

[Gkgkgkgk]

 

I'm new to this forum, but I wanted to share my full restoration of my teryllium Newport two. There are a few other step by step forums which I pieced together but none really had all the details so I'll try to keep it as detailed yet simple as possible. I come from a long line of handymen, but I don't really do much myself and I've never done anything with metals whatsoever, especially to this detail- a lot of guessing but it worked out really well. Just wanted to motivate anyone else whose considering doing it but weary, because I've thought about it for a few years. I'll post some before, during, and after photos for reference. Please note this putter wasn't in horrible shape to begin with, just had a ton of bag chatter from my grandpa playing 5 days a week and leaving the head cover in the basket during rounds. The finish was ok, but wearing in some areas.

 

 

 

You'll notice the top line was by far the worst part. The pictures don't do it justice, but it had some really bad chatter. The one unfortunate part is the dings were just deep enough that I had to do away with the milling marks on the face.

 

Here are the steps I took and the tools/items I used.

 

Dremel (sand paper discs, abrasive buffs, and polishing wheels)

 

Metal pic set

 

1/16" Allen wrench to remove insert

 

Sand paper- 80, 150, 220, 400, and 1000 grit

 

Odorless mineral spirits

 

Acetone

 

Distilled white vinegar

 

GE white silicone caulk (bought at ace hardware) for the elastomer dots

 

Testors enamel for white paint fill and tamiya acrylic for the copper color. I originally tried the testors copper but after 4 days of drying I put the headcover on and it still smudged like crazy.

 

Baby oil

 

Tooth pics

 

So to start, I just poured some mineral spirits on the elastomer dots on back and let it soak for maybe 5 minutes. Took the pic and they pulled out but some took more work than others.

 

 

There were 6 Allen screws in the back so I carefully removed them, placed them in a zip lock bag, sealed it and put it up. These are custom screws so DONT LOSE THEM!!

 

The insert came out with a little pressure on the back with the Allen wrench in different spots. I was very careful, don't rush it.

 

Repeatedly rubbed acetone on all of the paintfill and scraped it out with tooth pics, it sucked and took forever but didn't want to scratch it with metal pics.

 

I should have done this earlier, but if you just hold a bic lighter over the hosel where the shaft goes in and spin it for maybe 30-60 seconds, the shaft will come out relatively easily with no damage to either whatsoever.

 

I then soaked it in the white vinegar for maybe 10 minutes which pretty much stripped the blue right off.

 

 

Then started the dremel work, I used the sand paper discs, probably 100 of them or more, to get rid of all of the bag chatter which was primarily on the top line and around it. I removed metal very slowly as to remove the absolute minimum. This took about 2 hours which gave me this.

 

 

After all of the dings were gone I sanded every single surface with the sand paper switching directions with each grit starting at 80 and finishing with 1000.

 

 

 

I got it to a perfectly smooth nice polished surface all around. I was probably 5-6 hours in to dremel and sanding at this point.

 

This next part is extremely important- your mileage may vary, but this was my experience. I noticed that everyone that used cold blue, it just didn't look perfect yet I still tried it. I followed the instructions, as well as some advice from a local gunsmith. I gave it an acid bath in vinegar, using gloves I pulled it out, rinsed it, dried it well, and started the bluing process. I put it in the bluing solution for a minute or so, rinsed with cold water, and dried. It looked pretty rough, so I repeated 2 more times as per the directions. I noticed that suddenly over 50% of the surface showed minor pitting but A LOT of it. At this point I was devastated. That basically put me back to square 1. I had to spend another 2-3 hours dremeling, smoothing, and sanding which I did. I started calling around to places I googled locally for HOT black oxide. I found a place that said they'd do it for $75, and it would take them 2-3 days. At this point I was ready to do it but the place was a 40 min drive or so. I called a few closer places and none of them did it but one guy recommended a place somewhat close to my office. I called, explained what I was doing, he said "s***, bring a 12 pack and we'll do it in 30 minutes" so I went to the nearest gas station, bought a case of bud and boom. One note: he recommended bead blasting it before he dipped to bring a nice even coating. I agreed and it doesn't have quite the shine that it originally had, but I think I actually like it better, and once it's oiled it looks damn shiny.

 

 

Next step was the elastomer- for this I used a 1.5" plastic putty knife type thing. Squirted it in through the front making sure to way overfill so that every one would be touching the front, I didn't fill the 6 that held the screws though. I then put the insert in, put all 6 screws back in, then filled those 6 from the back. I used the putty knife to squeegee the excess off. It's very important that you try to do this with 1 swipe, or the absolute bare minimum you can. That stuff took about 24 hours to cure, then I VERY CAREFULLY took mineral spirits on a q tip, and softened the excess on the metal trying to keep it away from the dots themselves. Don't rush this part.

 

Next step was the paint fill. I did all of the white first. I rubbed down with acetone, and tried to put it in while it was still slightly damp with acetone. This will help the paint shine and smooth, and cure a bit quicker. I took a tooth pic, and as carefully as I could filled in all of the areas to be white. I let it set for a few hours, then carefully rubbed over with paper towels soaked in acetone with VERY light pressure. In this situation, a lot of acetone is your friend, and switch paper towels frequently.

 

I let that cure for 48 hours as recommended, then to the copper. I taped over the white on the bottom to avoid getting the copper paint in it when I wipe away. Same process for the copper. Once that cured, removed the tape, coated in baby oil, and took to a golf shop where they put the shaft back in for $4.00

 

Here's the finished product. Please note that I shined the insert with tooth paste which worked well, but you'll notice a slight bit of tooth paste residue in the tei3 stamp on the face. Disregard that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm sure I left some stuff out, if you have any questions, comments, or concerns please don't hesitate. Thanks for reading!

[Bushwood Caddy]

Looks great. Pretty cool that it was your grandpa's and that you will have something to hang onto.

[dbdors]

Very nice, have any pics of the back of the insert before it was reinstalled. Placement of those screws indicates that the insert was reinstalled at some point. We're there any broken off screws.

[Buzzkill]

Great job!

[Rob McHugh]

Great job!

+1! :-)

 

Rob

[Gkgkgkgk]

I don't have any pictures of it but those were the only 6 holes that had anything in them. There was no sign of anything in other holes.

[TPDawnPatrol]

Looks very clean, and I like that the face insert wasn't polished mirror smooth.

 

I'm curious how you kept the face insert flush (same height) as the rest of the face when you had to do the extra prep of the head after cold black oxide and the bead blasting before hot black oxide.

[Gkgkgkgk]

Thank you. I didn't want it to have too much glare, plus, one round and it's dirty anyway. I polish it pretty often with toothpaste but I wet sanded it with 1500 grit and left it at that.

 

Glad you brought that up, because I totally left that part out. I did have to sand it down and pull as much surface from that as I did the head, and I just started with 150 grit. It's pretty soft so it didn't take a ton of sanding to take thickness off. Just kinda guessed right I guess.

[BobbyLite]

Looks sweet!

[Toddyosh]

This is amazing. Nice work. I just bought a beat up Tei3 and going to try to have the same result.

[RookieBlue7]

You can buy replacement screws from McMaster Carr if you lose or break the ones that are in it. And you don't have to use the same holes either as the copper is soft enough it'll thread itself. Just for future information.

 

Also, you can mix your own bluing salts for about $20. 5 lbs 100% lye and 1 lb sodium nitrate dissolved in distilled water. Heat it to boiling. Submerge head for 30 mins. Again, for future reference

[Matt J]

Great call on the aftermarket pro bluing. OTC gun touch up is amateur hour. Tried and failed it too many times. Great job. Had a refinisher do my newport tei3 and yours looks every bit as good!

[JY VPI]

Great job. I will always have a soft spot for Tei3s.