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COBRA L4V - The BOMB!!!!


ROBOPTI

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I thought a LH X was available for a minute there! Although I like TGW more Golfsmith's smartfit has a few more shaft options. Most notably the Accras

 

It looks like you can select a LH driver in the customize section. Is that misleading?

 

I'm going to order one and find out! I'm thinking this is an error but I hope not! Thanks for the heads up.

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I thought a LH X was available for a minute there! Although I like TGW more Golfsmith's smartfit has a few more shaft options. Most notably the Accras

 

It looks like you can select a LH driver in the customize section. Is that misleading?

 

I'm going to order one and find out! I'm thinking this is an error but I hope not! Thanks for the heads up.

 

Hey, no problem. What shaft you gonna throw in that beast?

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I thought a LH X was available for a minute there! Although I like TGW more Golfsmith's smartfit has a few more shaft options. Most notably the Accras

 

It looks like you can select a LH driver in the customize section. Is that misleading?

 

I'm going to order one and find out! I'm thinking this is an error but I hope not! Thanks for the heads up.

 

Hey, no problem. What shaft you gonna throw in that beast?

 

I'm going to call Cobra tomorrow and confirm that this is available but assuming it is I'll order it up with a Vs Proto since it's a free upcharge. I already have an F with a PM702. I'll most likely reshaft with that but will give the proto her fair shot. Is it wrong that I'm this excited over a golf club?

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I tried the L4V at Golfsmith yesterday and WOW. It is loud, but that is a great overall expression for this club. It goes far and it has a great feel to it.

 

QUESTION FOR EVERYONE... Everyone is talking about the Whiteboard or the Pype shafts, but will one of these shafts be an improvement for someone with an average ss (95-98mph)???

 

Why does the factory install a so so to nice stock shaft -redboard, if everyone is taking it out???

 

Thanks!!!

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Ok, so I'm desperate to get on the L4V-X train but can't decide if I should:

 

A) try to find one slightly used for around $300 or so and stick a PM702 in it (total cost approaching $500) and then go through the hassel of selling a few clubs to get back $125 - $150.

 

OR

 

B) Go the customized Golfsmith way and put in one of their options, total cost would also be just under $500 but I could trade those same clubs in hassle free and knock off about $100...

 

 

So I guess the quesiton it boils down to is, is their a custom shaft option on Golfsmith that will give me the same performance profile as the PM702? Also, will golfsmith tip the shaft 1/2" as seems to be the common suggestion?

 

Thanks!

"We're not here for a long time... we're here for a good time." 

Mizuno JPX 900 Driver w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Mizuno JPX 900 3W, 5W w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Titleist AP3 4, 5 irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0
Titleist AP2 6 - GW irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0

Callaway Jaws Tour Grey 54S & 58x w/ Project X LZ 6.0O

Odyssey 2-Ball Ten Tour Lined
Shapland Stand Bag 2.3

Clicgear 4.0

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So I have "another" L4V question and this post seems to be where all the action is. So here is the question: I have a Blueboard 83s in a Titleist 905 at 45 inches. I would like to keep the shaft and put it in a L4V X. So here is the crux, I would like to make sure it doesnt play any softer with the heavier head, but I am willing/wanting to go back to a shorter driver. How much would I need to tip this thing to keep it playing around the same flex (if not a touch stiffer) and give me a decent (D2-3) swingweight? Is it even possible? If this is an easy question please forgive me, but when it comes to shafts, once I get one that I like, I tend to ignore everything else on the market. I also realize this may not be the ideal combo when it is all done, but I would like to try this head with a decent shaft and start from there instead of starting with the stock shaft that no one seems to like.

 

Do you know if your Titleist is a blind-bore or thru-bore setup ??? :partytime2:

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Guillotine007 & Br7ian .... AWESOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... VERY VERY VERY happy to hear your results .... Every now and then I get it right ... Spread the kool-aide .... RETAIL L4VX ROCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! music-smiley-026.gifmusic-smiley-026.gifheadbang.gifgandalf.gif

 

.... Keep us posted on your results !!!!

 

WCD ... i have heard the VS Proto spins a tad with the L4 ... I might even consider going a flex tighter .... Just an fyi :partytime2:

 

NYGOLF .... Either shaft woiuld be a HUGE improvement ... provided you get the correct flex .... It's just a matter of flattening out the flight of the ball for "most" people that REALLY turns this thing into a weapon .... But remember - This is NOT!!!! a high spin head - so some spin is a good thing ;)

 

Jaraxle ... I would get it right the first time and let Golfsmith build a new one ... why pinch pennies from the get go ... I don't know about your speed etc to try to GUESS the flex - but you are on the right track

 

 

ALSO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... To those of you who have followed my advice ... Below is a pic that Lama made for me - and the same on one in Pav's signature .... below that is the actually code for the pic ... copy the text and pop it your signature if ya like ..... I am going to put it in mine too :D .... My cult so to speak star-wars-smiley-013.gif

 

Finished_KABSOA2.jpg

 

[center][IMG=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ROBOPTI/Finished_KABSOA2.jpg][/center]

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Guillotine007 & Br7ian .... AWESOME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... VERY VERY VERY happy to hear your results .... Every now and then I get it right ... Spread the kool-aide .... RETAIL L4VX ROCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! music-smiley-026.gifmusic-smiley-026.gifheadbang.gifgandalf.gif

 

.... Keep us posted on your results !!!!

 

WCD ... i have heard the VS Proto spins a tad with the L4 ... I might even consider going a flex tighter .... Just an fyi :partytime2:

 

NYGOLF .... Either shaft woiuld be a HUGE improvement ... provided you get the correct flex .... It's just a matter of flattening out the flight of the ball for "most" people that REALLY turns this thing into a weapon .... But remember - This is NOT!!!! a high spin head - so some spin is a good thing ;)

 

Jaraxle ... I would get it right the first time and let Golfsmith build a new one ... why pinch pennies from the get go ... I don't know about your speed etc to try to GUESS the flex - but you are on the right track

 

 

ALSO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... To those of you who have followed my advice ... Below is a pic that Lama made for me - and the same on one in Pav's signature .... below that is the actually code for the pic ... copy the text and pop it your signature if ya like ..... I am going to put it in mine too :D .... My cult so to speak star-wars-smiley-013.gif

 

Finished_KABSOA2.jpg

 

[center][IMG=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ROBOPTI/Finished_KABSOA2.jpg][/center]

 

 

 

Thanks. What is your recommendation on flex for the ss I mentioned above (90's). It seems that most of the guys on here are 100+ using these better shafts.

 

Has anyone used the Pro Launch red for this club?

 

 

Thanks again, very helpful.

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I'd say there's a few possibilities. Quite likely Cobra won't deal with them. Even if they would the L4V X is already open and heavy so they would not have the option of exclusive open tour heads for prices Ronald Biggs would faint over. Basically they would be selling exactly what head Cobra would be but at a price about triple that of the whole club from Cobra. Even the minions might not fall for that. Callaway has tore the carpet out from under them by selling the LCG FT-I with X-Con for just over 1/3 of the price for the whole combination that the others do for just the head!!!! We're looking at about $1700 assembled vs $549. Incredible. This IMO is why the 282 suddenly leapt forth in all it's glory. I'd love to see TM bring them out at less than half the price too :partytime2:

 

 

Do people really pay 1700 for a driver??? Holy crap, I knew they overcharged a bit, can't say I ever really bothered to check out there site but 1700? ;)

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I bought mine with the PM 702 X in it. I hit it just fine but I'm always wondering if there's something better. I'm nuts, I just can't leave well enough alone :partytime2: So my question is this, is there a better set up than the PM 702? How does/would the white board, Pype, or even the stock X redboard compare? I think I need professional help.

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Jaraxle ... I would get it right the first time and let Golfsmith build a new one ... why pinch pennies from the get go ... I don't know about your speed etc to try to GUESS the flex - but you are on the right track

 

Sounds good... which of the offerings from Golfsmith would you think have the low spin properties that seem to fit best w/ this driver? The only ones that people have been talking about are the UST Accra 65 and maybe the GD Pershing 65... Bummer that they don't offer the Protopype...

 

And thanks for the new Kool-Aid patch... I love it!

"We're not here for a long time... we're here for a good time." 

Mizuno JPX 900 Driver w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Mizuno JPX 900 3W, 5W w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Titleist AP3 4, 5 irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0
Titleist AP2 6 - GW irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0

Callaway Jaws Tour Grey 54S & 58x w/ Project X LZ 6.0O

Odyssey 2-Ball Ten Tour Lined
Shapland Stand Bag 2.3

Clicgear 4.0

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QUESTION FOR EVERYONE... Everyone is talking about the Whiteboard or the Pype shafts, but will one of these shafts be an improvement for someone with an average ss (95-98mph)???

Why does the factory install a so so to nice stock shaft -redboard, if everyone is taking it out???

Thanks!!!

 

... Certainly everyone is not taking the redboard out. It is a very good stock shaft for the "average golfer". But forum guys are on the cutting edge, and many have swing speeds or loading properties that call for a much stronger shaft.

 

... Concerning your question, the 95-98 swingspeed is not as important as HOW you achieve it. If you are a quick hard hitter or posses a very high swingspeed, the Pype or Whiteboard would be outstanding options. But for a 95 mph relatively smooth swing, those shafts will perform worse than the stock redboard!!! I think the VS Proto 65 at no upcharge is a much better option for you, given the above swing characteristics. poty06 is using a DVS 60x and that is the same shaft I'm putting in mine, although I'll use a 70 in a stiff flex. I'll play mine at 44.5" and the very butt stiff and tip active DVS should be perfect. While it is a similar profile to the Pershing, it does not launch as high, and imo is the smoothest feeling shaft I have ever hit. With everything biased toward "low spin", ironically most golfers need a little more spin! The ball spins less, the clubs spin less, and shafts spin less. For those with normal swingspeeds, the ball needs MORE spin to stay in the air and maximize carry. Of course there are quite a few monsters here, like Rob and Pav, that have the clubhead speed to launch it high with very little spin and carry it a mile. But if you have a low-mid trajectory with a medium paced tempo and a swingspeed below 100mph, spin is your friend. So do a reality check, and if you are not a big hitter, consider a shaft that will help you get the best results out of the L4V!!!

Driver:       TM Qi10 ... AutoFlex Dream 7 SF405
Fairway:    CobraAerojet 16* 3 wood ... AD-IZ6r
Hybrids:    Cobra King Tec 19* ... MMT Hy70r
                  Ping G430 22* ... Alta CB Black Hy70r

Irons:        Titleist T200 '23 5-9 ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:   MG3 ... 45*/50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:       Cobra King Sport-60
Ball:           2024 TP5x/2023 Maxfli Tour X

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... Certainly everyone is not taking the redboard out. It is a very good stock shaft for the "average golfer". But forum guys are on the cutting edge, and many have swing speeds or loading properties that call for a much stronger shaft.

 

... Concerning your question, the 95-98 swingspeed is not as important as HOW you achieve it. If you are a quick hard hitter or posses a very high swingspeed, the Pype or Whiteboard would be outstanding options. But for a 95 mph relatively smooth swing, those shafts will perform worse than the stock redboard!!! I think the VS Proto 65 at no upcharge is a much better option for you, given the above swing characteristics. poty06 is using a DVS 60x and that is the same shaft I'm putting in mine, although I'll use a 70 in a stiff flex. I'll play mine at 44.5" and the very butt stiff and tip active DVS should be perfect. While it is a similar profile to the Pershing, it does not launch as high, and imo is the smoothest feeling shaft I have ever hit. With everything biased toward "low spin", ironically most golfers need a little more spin! The ball spins less, the clubs spin less, and shafts spin less. For those with normal swingspeeds, the ball needs MORE spin to stay in the air and maximize carry. Of course there are quite a few monsters here, like Rob and Pav, that have the clubhead speed to launch it high with very little spin and carry it a mile. But if you have a low-mid trajectory with a medium paced tempo and a swingspeed below 100mph, spin is your friend. So do a reality check, and if you are not a big hitter, consider a shaft that will help you get the best results out of the L4V!!!

 

chisag - You seem to know alot about this stuff so I'd love a little insight on what would work best for me. I'm 6'4"/225lbs and try not to swing particularly hard, more of a tempo swing but am usually right around 105 (can get up to 109 if I really relax and release the club). FWIW I'm about a 11 handicap but driving is generally the strongest part of my game. Given those parameters, would would you suggest? I've only hit the stock shaft and it worked well but did seem to generate alot of spin (4000+) on my best swings though usually closer to 3200-3500 on more average swings...

 

Thanks, really hoping to get this decision made so I can put this bad boy in the bag...

 

Jarlaxle

"We're not here for a long time... we're here for a good time." 

Mizuno JPX 900 Driver w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Mizuno JPX 900 3W, 5W w/ Speeder Evo II 661 Stiff
Titleist AP3 4, 5 irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0
Titleist AP2 6 - GW irons w/ Project X LZ 6.0

Callaway Jaws Tour Grey 54S & 58x w/ Project X LZ 6.0O

Odyssey 2-Ball Ten Tour Lined
Shapland Stand Bag 2.3

Clicgear 4.0

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I am relatively new to the site, usually just read all of your blogs. I am in the process of getting a new driver and the L4V really intrigues me. I haven't played with many different drivers like most of you out there. Right now I am hitting a 905R with a V2 75 in it and I like it but I am always looking to upgrade. I have a slight fade most days with it but I like the shaft when I am hitting it well. Has anyone used this in the L4V and would you recommend getting a lighter shaft with this club head being a tad heavier?

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Here's a question for everyone that has reshafted: Did your clubmaker cut and drill the shaft due to the carbon crown or use an extractor? My clubmaker wouldn't touch it with the extractor. I was trying to avoid destroying the stock shaft in case I needed to send it back for whatever reason.

TaylorMade Stealth Plus 9* HZRDUS Smoke Black 60 6.0
TaylorMade M5 14* HZRDUS Smoke Black 70 6.0
TaylorMade M5 19* HZRDUS Smoke Black 70 6.0
Ping i500 4-UW Recoil 110 F4
Ping Glide Stealth 2.0 50.0, 54 ES & 58 ES Recoil 110 F4
Bettinardi Studio Stock 28

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ALSO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... To those of you who have followed my advice ... Below is a pic that Lama made for me - and the same on one in Pav's signature .... below that is the actually code for the pic ... copy the text and pop it your signature if ya like ..... I am going to put it in mine too :partytime2: .... My cult so to speak star-wars-smiley-013.gif

 

Finished_KABSOA2.jpg

 

[center][IMG=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/ROBOPTI/Finished_KABSOA2.jpg][/center]

 

 

Hey ROBO, Something like this? LOL

 

Kindest regards, Shawnee

Titleist Tsi4 / Callaway 4w /Call Hy/ Call UT 3i /Srixon z745 4-P /Vokey Wedgeworks 50m+56v /Cameron Newport 

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Here's a question for everyone that has reshafted: Did your clubmaker cut and drill the shaft due to the carbon crown or use an extractor? My clubmaker wouldn't touch it with the extractor. I was trying to avoid destroying the stock shaft in case I needed to send it back for whatever reason.

 

 

I did a low heat extraction myself and had absolutely no problems, i had my hand on the head the whole time and it never really got hot. I only heat up the hosel ring and do a little light heating of the face. Surprised a professional turned you down. You could send it to me and I will do it for you for $20 labor, if you like.

TITLEIST TS3 8.5 T1100
Callaway XR Pro 15* Fairway
Taylormade GAPR 2
Honma 737V 4-pw
Titleist SM6 52/58
Machine M20 Converter Aluminum Bronze
Scotty Newport Select

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Here's a question for everyone that has reshafted: Did your clubmaker cut and drill the shaft due to the carbon crown or use an extractor? My clubmaker wouldn't touch it with the extractor. I was trying to avoid destroying the stock shaft in case I needed to send it back for whatever reason.

 

I'll be putting the Pype in mine later this week. I've talked to Rob , and he told me not to worry in regards to the amount of heat. They can handle it. The minimal insertion depth should make the pull easier than some. I may use a wet chamois to wrap the head with...just to be extra safe. The heat gun I use has 2 settings which I will probably switch back & forth to during the heating process. I do all of my own stuff...so I'll let you know. Nothing to be afraid of...just take it slow...no need to rush. Others that have already reshafted may have some more info for you though.

 

Edit...I need to type faster...LOL.

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Here's a question for everyone that has reshafted: Did your clubmaker cut and drill the shaft due to the carbon crown or use an extractor? My clubmaker wouldn't touch it with the extractor. I was trying to avoid destroying the stock shaft in case I needed to send it back for whatever reason.

 

I also used a JB hydraulic puller with my heat gun and it was a very easy pull. If you want to be extra cautious you can wrap the head in a damp cloth.

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Here's a question for everyone that has reshafted: Did your clubmaker cut and drill the shaft due to the carbon crown or use an extractor? My clubmaker wouldn't touch it with the extractor. I was trying to avoid destroying the stock shaft in case I needed to send it back for whatever reason.

 

I'll be putting the Pype in mine later this week. I've talked to Rob , and he told me not to worry in regards to the amount of heat. They can handle it. The minimal insertion depth should make the pull easier than some. I may use a wet chamois to wrap the head with...just to be extra safe. The heat gun I use has 2 settings which I will probably switch back & forth to during the heating process. I do all of my own stuff...so I'll let you know. Nothing to be afraid of...just take it slow...no need to rush. Others that have already reshafted may have some more info for you though.

 

Edit...I need to type faster...LOL.

 

Well, that does ease my mind a bit. Cut and drill, I can do myself with zero problems. Even pulling, I have generally no problems.

 

Anyone else have anything to add?

TaylorMade Stealth Plus 9* HZRDUS Smoke Black 60 6.0
TaylorMade M5 14* HZRDUS Smoke Black 70 6.0
TaylorMade M5 19* HZRDUS Smoke Black 70 6.0
Ping i500 4-UW Recoil 110 F4
Ping Glide Stealth 2.0 50.0, 54 ES & 58 ES Recoil 110 F4
Bettinardi Studio Stock 28

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OK ... Let me see if I can help ... I have done 10-15 of these EASY !!!!!!!!!!! .. and they come apart very simply

 

You DO need a good puller - a good high tension puller ....

 

Remove the ferrule and put the head in the puller with the face pointing straight up at the ceiling .... and crank it up

 

I actually use HIGH heat - cuz I want to heat quickly (which Titanium is an EXCELLENT conducter of heat) ... but I want to heat it QUICKLY .. in a small controlled area

 

Apply the heat to the sole of the face where you can imagine the shaft running directly behind the gun - staright down at the face only (all metal area) ... Hit it for 10 seconds or so and then I point the heat UPWARDS as if I were trying to heat the shaft - and heat the top the hosel - I rotate it around maybe twice - all the time with no heat down towards the heads - but towards the puller - then hit the face again ... I have NEVER had one take more than 20-25 seconds MAXIMUM - usually quicker... A wet towel around the head is good idea - NOTHING WRONG with safety - I dont myself

 

The head will pop right off - If you have problems or concerns - pop me a note :partytime2:

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I've got some money in my paypal account and need to give this a try. I have a 98-105 SS with the driver with an aggresive transition. I had been using a 9* Speed Pro D last year with the stiff flex VS Proto (yellow one). I killed that set-up, but in the quest to eek out more yardage, reshafted with a Code 6 and I can't get enough spin with it now. I'm thinking of getting a 9* LV4 X, but wonder which shaft to try. I'm currently using a 10.5 SuperQuad with the 65 gram TP Rombax and am hitting it extrememley well for more reference. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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OK ... Let me see if I can help ... I have done 10-15 of these EASY !!!!!!!!!!! .. and they come apart very simply

 

You DO need a good puller - a good high tension puller ....

 

Remove the ferrule and put the head in the puller with the face pointing straight up at the ceiling .... and crank it up

 

I actually use HIGH heat - cuz I want to heat quickly (which Titanium is an EXCELLENT conducter of heat) ... but I want to heat it QUICKLY .. in a small controlled area

 

Apply the heat to the sole of the face where you can imagine the shaft running directly behind the gun - staright down at the face only (all metal area) ... Hit it for 10 seconds or so and then I point the heat UPWARDS as if I were trying to heat the shaft - and heat the top the hosel - I rotate it around maybe twice - all the time with no heat down towards the heads - but towards the puller - then hit the face again ... I have NEVER had one take more than 20-25 seconds MAXIMUM - usually quicker... A wet towel around the head is good idea - NOTHING WRONG with safety - I dont myself

 

The head will pop right off - If you have problems or concerns - pop me a note :partytime2:

 

 

LOL!...Ok now I need to see the full video in action!!!! ;) Josh

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