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Tip trimming for Torque.


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A few old threads on this but nothing super conclusive. 

In regards to torque in driver shafts: is there a reasonable amount of tipping that would allow the torque to decrease? Would a 0.5'' tip job result in a set amount of torque decrease, or would you need to tip a shaft so significantly (2 inches+) to notice any change in torque that it completely changes the entire profile of the shaft so drastically that the value in decreasing torque is outweighed by the other changes.

 

(For specifics, my driver shaft is 3.5 degrees of torque and would prefer something sub 3... ideally within the next 6 days) 

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3 hours ago, AmateurAmateur said:

A few old threads on this but nothing super conclusive. 

In regards to torque in driver shafts: is there a reasonable amount of tipping that would allow the torque to decrease? Would a 0.5'' tip job result in a set amount of torque decrease, or would you need to tip a shaft so significantly (2 inches+) to notice any change in torque that it completely changes the entire profile of the shaft so drastically that the value in decreasing torque is outweighed by the other changes.

 

(For specifics, my driver shaft is 3.5 degrees of torque and would prefer something sub 3... ideally within the next 6 days) 



There is no numbers for what you ask for, and i really dont think TQ will stand out either, since feel from tip trim will make the largest influence to feel change.

There is no industry standards for how this is measured either, so we never know if values is compatible for compare.

https://www.hirekogolf.com/what-is-shaft-torque

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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, AmateurAmateur said:

A few old threads on this but nothing super conclusive. 

In regards to torque in driver shafts: is there a reasonable amount of tipping that would allow the torque to decrease? Would a 0.5'' tip job result in a set amount of torque decrease, or would you need to tip a shaft so significantly (2 inches+) to notice any change in torque that it completely changes the entire profile of the shaft so drastically that the value in decreasing torque is outweighed by the other changes.

 

(For specifics, my driver shaft is 3.5 degrees of torque and would prefer something sub 3... ideally within the next 6 days) 

 

 

The tip trim-able tip section (usually ~3") is specifically reinforced to handle the high stress at the top of the hosel e.g. has VERY thick wall thickness compared to the rest of the shaft that does all the bending and work.  Because of that reinforcement, it's not really contributing much (if any) to the torsional deflection.  So removing any of that is not going to increase the torsional stiffness (or decrease the torsional deflection or torque value).   It's even possible it might increase the torque - depending on the torsional stiffness of the butt section that will be replacing the part of the tip that was removed.

 

Second, don't get so caught up in the torque numbers.  The vast majority of amateurs only feel "torque" when they don't hit the center of the face and it has no impact on their delivery or impact.    And even among those that might be able to feel differences in torque or have the rare mechanics (very high swing speed and very late release) where it it might influence the swing -  no one can really isolate the importance of torque to their swing - largely because there are not enough shafts with different torques but the same longitudinal stiffness profile to allow then to test it in isolation.   Most people just make assumptions about the importance of torque based on the published shaft specs of the shafts they've tested - when in fact the real difference in those shafts that effect the results was really the differences in the longitudinal stiffness profile, not the difference in torsional stiffness.  Which, by the way, isn't even accurately represented by those published numbers due to a lack of standard for measuring by the different companies.

 

So basically it's pointless to chase torque numbers.  If a shaft doesn't work well (for whatever reason) it's better to just move on to a different shaft.  It's very easy to overthink the specifics of why it might not be working or might not be a good fit.

Edited by Stuart_G
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When Project-X came out with the RDX Blue with the Stars & Stripes color way, I wanted one bad. My family has a big 4th of July tournament in Maine every year and I thought it would be perfect for my driver in my set I keep there. However, the RDX Blue was softer than I like. I decided to get a 60TX and do some tipping on it. My SS is around 108 and I don't over stress shafts too much. I got the shaft and tipped it so that I only had 1/4" of parallel above the Cobra adapter and put an Aerojet 10.5 head on it. Final playing length is 46" and the shaft actually feels nice and tight. Listed torque was 3.3, which is on the high side of what I usually prefer but this shaft is just as tight as anything I have. Launch and flight are right in line with my other drivers.

 

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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