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ANYBODY ELSE DOING SHAFTS LIKE THIS????


andrade

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1ST STEP TO HEEL TRIMMING FOR CONSISTANCY
I HAVE BEEN RECENTLY NOTICING A TOLERANCE OF AT LEAST PLUS OR MINUS 1/8 INCH IN 1ST STEP LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT SETS OF DYNAMIC GOLD TAPER TIP SHAFTS. IN THE PAST---I NEVER PAID ATTENTION AND JUST ASSEMBLED SETS ASSUMING THAT THERE WERE TIGHT TOLERANCES IN STEP MEASUREMENTS WITH DYNAMIC GOLD SHAFTS AS IS THE CASE WITH THE SHAFT WEIGHTS. I HAD ASSEMBLED A PERSONAL SET OF TITLEIST 680'S AND NOTICED THAT THE 1ST STEP LOCATIONS OF BOTH THE 3 AND 4 IRON WERE REALLY CLOSE TO EACH OTHER. I REMOVED THE SHAFTS AND NOTICED THAT THE 3 IRON 1ST STEP WAS MINUS 1/8 AND THE 4 IRON 1ST STEP WAS PLUS 1/8. (ADDITIONALLY, THE HOSEL BORE DEPTHS VARIED SLIGHTLY).

MY NEW PROTOCOL IS TO DRY ASSEMBLE THE SET AND MAKE HEEL TO 1ST STEP MEASUREMENTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS A 1/2 INCH SEPARATION BETWEEN EACH CLUB. I TIP TRIM SHAFTS AS NEEDED TO COMPENSATE FOR HOSEL BORE DEPTH TOLERANCES AND 1ST STEP TOLERANCES.

WHEN THIS IS FINALLY COMPLETED---I SPINE ALIGN THE SHAFTS---WEIGHT SORT THE GRIPS----TAKE 2 PROZACS AND 4 BEERS----AND CONVENCE MYSELF THAT I HAVE ASSEMBLED A SET THAT IS AS CONSISTANT THAT IS POSSIBLE.

AM I WASTING ALOT OF TIME OR ARE SOME OF YOU CLUBMAKERS DOING THE SAME KIND OF THING????????
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You've got two options:

 

Drill your hosels so all clubs have the same shafting depth. Or,

 

Tip trim the shafts to get the consistent step pattern.

 

I've done it both ways. Spined, the DG Tour shafts have a good frequency slope. All you'll be doing is tightening up the variances to get a more linear slope.

 

If you have the time, by all means do it. But the gains that you are going to realize are only if you have feel to the nth degree.

Mizuno ST200G 9° / Aldila Synergy Black Proto 75-TX   
TC Callaway XHot 3DEEP 13° / Graphite Design DI-10 TX

TC Callaway X2Hot 5DEEP 18.5° bent to 17° / Fujikura Ventus Black 10x

Callaway X-Forged UT 21° / Fujikura Ventus Black 10-TX

Callaway X-Forged UT 25° / Nippon Super Peening Blue X hs1x 

Raw Mizuno MP-32 6-PW / Nippon Super Peening Blue X hs1x 

Titleist Vokey SM8 Black 50.08F / Nippon Super Peening Blue X Stage-stepped
Titleist Vokey SM8 Black 54.12D / Nippon Super Peening Blue X Stage-stepped

Titleist Vokey SM8 Black 58.14K / Nippon Super Peening Blue X Stage-stepped
Mizuno M-Craft I Blue Ion 365g / Stability Shaft

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I have found that tip trimming up to 1/4 inch off of the taper tip shaft still allows insertion into a tapered tip hosel bore. After abraiding the chrome, I install the shaft without shafting beads since the fit is so exact after the tip trimming. I read somewhere that Tiger tips his X-100's 1/4 inch throughout his set.

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Some heads will take tapers tipped up to half an inch(i guess some will take more, never tried though!). I've found uncut lengths to be a little bit out here or there and frequencies to be all over the place, 1/8" differences could make up for weight differences you get. Wouldn't make alot of different to overall flex. Differences in your first steps could be inconsistencies in hosel depths, not necessarily the shafts. Easiest way is indeed as you've been doing, to tip the shaft a touch. Probably something best done with a frequency analyser to keep an eye on things, although I doubt you'd ever need to tip a shaft enough to significantly change anything. The frequency analyser will open your eyes to a whole new level of inconsitencies with shafts, and make you even more paranoid. Have fun :)

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Im assuming that your head weights are 6 gram increments apart from 3-4-5 and so on. Most OEM heads are not and people do not weigh the heads. I have never heard you need a half inch step pattern beteen each club being the most important thing. Trying to achieve frequency(flex) for the club, whether its a 1/2 or a 3/8. I have always hit the desired CPM value. If its taper tip you might have to soft or hard step. I would think trimming the 4 iron shaft would change the ball flight alot more than what the 3 and 5 would be?

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I have noticed similar inconsistencies. Your solutions are fine and if you have good feel, you should notice a difference.

If you want to fine tune further, you can always buy a bore vice and bore out the heads to .370. This gives you many more options. A bore vice and a frequency meter have proved to be a very worthwhile investment for me.

 

Happy holidays.

LB

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Titleist T150 GW - MMT105

Vokey- 54/12A, 58LBK
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Andrade,

 

Not only do I do the same thing as you do when I set up the shaft in 1/2" first step increments, I also make certain that the butt end first step measurements are exactly the same as well.

 

For instance, I recently re-shafted a set of Cobra Forged CB's for a tour player who likes Dynamic Gold S300 taper tip shafts. The first steps were adjusted starting at the 4-iron (11 1/8") and subtracting 1/2" for each shaft down to the 9-iron (8 5/8"). The PW was only a 1/4" shorter than the 9-iron so I set the first step at 8 3/8".

 

Now, to make sure each club played consistently from the 4-iron to the PW, I measured and cut the first step on the butt end to exactly 6 1/4". The result was a very tight tolerance set of irons that play and feel consistent throughout the set.

 

Lastly, if you check the cpm slope on a set of shafts that have been properly trimmed and adjusted from the first step at the tip and the first step at the butt end, you'll find a very consistent 4.0 to 4.5 cpm slope throughout the set.

 

 

Riggs

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