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UST Proforce V2 Shaft Pull


mobonic

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Screwed up tip? What to do?? Need your help. PIC ADDED!!!
I had my Proforce V2 55 R shaft pulled from my driver today. When it was pulled the tip was damaged badly, i think they used too much heat and it melted/cracked all the way up to the ferule line, approx. 2 inches from the tip.

I just measured the shaft and it is cuurently 43.25 inches from grip end to tip.


I want to know if i need to cut off 1 to 2 inches from the tip can thi still be played in a driver???

What flex will it be played at if its tipped 1 or 2 inches?


Would it be better to just put this shaft in a 3 wood? Would it still play to a Regular Flex or in between R and stiff?

I like my drivers at 44.5 inches anyway so maybe this will still work for a driver.

Where is the lowest point i could cut in order to save the most length of this shaft?


Thanks for the input?

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I had my Proforce V2 55 R shaft pulled from my driver today. When it was pulled the tip was damaged badly, i think they used too much heat and it melted/cracked all the way up to the ferule line, approx. 2 inches from the tip.

 

I just measured the shaft and it is cuurently 43.25 inches from grip end to tip.

 

 

I want to know if i need to cut off 1 to 2 inches from the tip can thi still be played in a driver???

 

What flex will it be played at if its tipped 1 or 2 inches?

 

 

Would it be better to just put this shaft in a 3 wood? Would it still play to a Regular Flex or in between R and stiff?

 

I like my drivers at 44.5 inches anyway so maybe this will still work for a driver.

 

 

Thanks for the input? I will try to add pic of the damaged tip.

 

 

If the tip is cooked that badly, I wouldn't even use it for a three wood, since the heat probably affected the inch above the ferrule. Worse, if they put that much heat, they probably cooked the paint down below the hosel as well. This is a really bad thing to do to a club, especially if it is a TM. The white hosel plug that TM uses to close off the hosel bore to the interior of the head can easily cook with that much heat.

 

Once it heats up, it usually deforms and will slip into the head after the first few swings, creating a rattle that is very difficult to remove.

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I had my Proforce V2 55 R shaft pulled from my driver today. When it was pulled the tip was damaged badly, i think they used too much heat and it melted/cracked all the way up to the ferule line, approx. 2 inches from the tip.

 

I just measured the shaft and it is cuurently 43.25 inches from grip end to tip.

 

 

I want to know if i need to cut off 1 to 2 inches from the tip can thi still be played in a driver???

 

What flex will it be played at if its tipped 1 or 2 inches?

 

 

Would it be better to just put this shaft in a 3 wood? Would it still play to a Regular Flex or in between R and stiff?

 

I like my drivers at 44.5 inches anyway so maybe this will still work for a driver.

 

Where is the lowest point i could cut in order to save the most length of this shaft?

 

 

Thanks for the input?

 

 

 

 

That is definitely cooked. If that was a pull by a professional clubmaker, I'd ask for a refund of the price I paid for the pull and I'd ask that he use whatever purchasing discount he has with Golfsmith or Golfworks to help me replace the shaft at wholesale price.

 

On the one hand, you can't really expect a clubmaker to warrant a pullout. Pullout's can and do break, even when they're pulled carefully. Some brands withstand pulls better than others.

 

But these days will pullers and heat guns, in 9 cases out of 10, a shaft should be able to be extracted an re-used with a reasonable chance that the shaft will hold up.

 

Believe it or not though, there are clubmakers out there who don't realize that people intend to reuse a pulled shaft.

 

In any case, a 55 gram shaft is really light to use for a three wood. You could tip it 2 inches and try, but I think the swingweight would come out so light that it wouldn't be worth it.

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That has to be the worst pull I have ever seen on a modern graphite shaft. If it was done buy a shop, I would ask for my money back and like above, would get them to get me another shaft at cost. They put WAY to much heat on it and looks like they twisted it on the way out. I don't understand why people use a torch on graphite. It does not take much longer with a heat gun and is much safer...

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8.gif

 

There's always a certain element of riks with pulling a shaft and I think everyone should understand that. However, that's akin to a surgeon leaving a sponge in.

 

Get your money back, because that's just gross negligence. Since the graphite is beginning to unwrap, forget it. It'll only be a matter of time before the shaft fails and then it could do some serious damage.

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