Titleist 915D2 10.5*, Fujikura Pro 70X 43.5"
Ping G SFT 16*, Matrix 8Q3-X 41.5"
Ping OG Rapture 2-U, DG XP - R300
Vokey 56(57*), 60(63*) DG-R400
"Rusty" Byron DH89 Pipeneck, 34" (or any of 10 2 other putters...)
Some of you guys asked me before if i could show you guys a step by step process.
Be aware that operating your tool without caution may give you a severe injury.
It looks very easy but if you never tried it, you will never know how hard it is to make them perfect.
Hope this is help some of your questions.
While Joe didn't do these I had a set off lob wedges from the MD Forged that I took a bunch off bounce off the back end . Easier to handle around the greens and hard pan bunkers (for me ) out off fluffier bunkers I'll use my 54 bent to 56 to make it have 12 degrees off bounce . With this combination my short game has improved drastically in the few greens a round that I do miss . You gotta know what your doing and make sure you never take the lob wedge off dirt grass (lack of base layer ) or you're digging lol
I just added this Miura 52 degree GW to my collection. The first two pictures show the pre-grind wedge. The primary purpose of this wedge is going to be a fairway/rough advancing club between my PW and LW (of course). I also want to be able to use this from normal grass conditions (lush grasses but not saturated with too much water) to dry conditions. This is the spectrum of Colorado golf. I will also be using this as a 3/4 wedge shot to cover 60-80 yards as well with a little spin. Finally I hope to use this wedge for moderate length greenside bunker play as well. In all, I want a versatile wedge to handle a wide spectrum of bread and butter shots, nothing too extravagant.
I used a dremel tool with a course grit drum bit, a medium grit drum bit, a "flap sanding" bit (see images), a medium metal file, a fine metal file, 120 and 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper. A bit of patience and a steady hand. I would have rather used a belt sander but I don't have one and I wasn't going to buy one just for this purpose. I find using a dremel drum bit works when using a metal file to remove the uneven grinding. Patience is the key. Final swing weight is D4 for the GW. I added the lead tape to get the weight to D5 as an inbetween of my PW (D4) and LW (D7).
I took the wedge out to the range this evening and it performed really well. So well in fact that I am willing to put it in the bag for my 2 day tournament starting tomorrow. Talk about trial by fire. /biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/ P grind on it.
The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to be a bit more aggressive from almost any lie.
Joe- sure hope OSHA doesn't see these pics...man you shop is a mess..wires everywhere....but Genius survives in chaos!! Great pics and step by step Joe, thanks josh
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