Grinding a wedge!!!!

[joey3108]

[quote name='jlww3golf' timestamp='1301631766' post='3108386']
[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1301620456' post='3107612']
The 60* was not ground by me!
[/quote]

What's the grind on that 56. i noticed you started with the 16* bounce version. Is it easier to do a grind starting with more bounce?

jlww3
[/quote]

Ray originally have that already in hand, not my choice!

I've ground it all the way down to a 12 ish.

I call that D grind.

Easier or not are depends what you need to get them at after ground and what is the original head weight before ground.

Joe

[Howard_Jones]

Thanks a lot Joe , It saved my day, and a lot of those days to come...
- Its always a relief to get support for the thinking on project who seems good, but you are not quite sure, because you have not done it before.
- I have like 30 wedges to do with this and other grinds in the next few weeks, improving skills for my "big test" coming up soon.

I try to get approval for doing Scratch blanks, so this is "warm up" before I got the test blanks who I shall return for approval.
After your answer, I feel comfortable with it all, because this grind is the only one I never could understand to the full, but I think I got it now ;-)

No Repro chrome,.saved me both some money and working space
-, I just polish them with Autosol like i do now:-) (looks like chrome when done)

Once again, Thanks a lot Joey

[Breaker999]

I need to take some weight off my Ping Tour S 60-10 wedge. Is it possible to grind stainless steel with garage tools-- electric drill, grinding stones, etc? If this is not a good idea, where can I send my wedge for custom grinds and how much does it cost?
Thanks!

[joey3108]

[quote name='Minty7890' timestamp='1302722557' post='3150491']
I need to take some weight off my Ping Tour S 60-10 wedge. Is it possible to grind stainless steel with garage tools-- electric drill, grinding stones, etc? If this is not a good idea, where can I send my wedge for custom grinds and how much does it cost?
Thanks!
[/quote] Belt sander is the way to go IMO. Hand file is just takes a lot longer and hand sanding will use a lot of elbow grease. I can grind them if you wish me to work on them. You can email me if you do need a quotation.

[bigmacmdm]

Thanks for the great pics and instructions!

[Stu-Co]

The xft wedges look pretty sick.... bead blast the grinds and they would look factory done!

[Ram02v8]

That's awesome. Great part of wrx is showing this behind the scenes stuff.

[russian7]

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1141539194' post='136224']
Some of you guys asked me before if i could show you guys a step by step process.

Be aware that operating your tool without caution may give you a severe injury.

It looks very easy but if you never tried it, you will never know how hard it is to make them perfect.

Hope this is help some of your questions.

Joe
[attachment=29343:attachment]Marking and planning!
[attachment=29344:attachment]Start slowly on the area that need grinding the most to have some room for mistakes or a slip. Slow but sure is my best advice
[attachment=29345:attachment]Keep going up slowly and feel your movement along the marking line and the corner area, apply pressure as necessary.
[attachment=29346:attachment]Keep checking on your weight on how far you are going.
[attachment=29347:attachment]Rough finish product.
[attachment=29348:attachment]Flap wheel finishing.
[attachment=29349:attachment]Check your finish product!
[/quote]


What exactly does that do? many come like that now

[Robbie02]

Joe,
Is that a Craftsman Jet-tool you are using here ???????????????????

[Howard_Jones]

I think Joey is using an attachment to a motor like this one.
http://www.vansantent.com/Vendor_pages/Multitool_Grinders.htm

I've got a larger model model of the same Multi tool attachment (larger diameter on the grinding wheel)
http://peecee.dk/upload/view/333835

Its a nice tool i tell you ;-)

[neova]

Thanks for the instruction Joe!

I don't have a belt sander, so hand file it is...

I'm a slider so I've grinded my X-SERIES JAWS Slate Lob Wedge 60.13 down to about a 6* bounce (roughly measured by protractor). Most of the material was take off the heel and trailing edge so that the club would sit lower on square shots especially on flopped shots with open face.

Took me 2 hours to slowly grind off material in nice even strokes. Looks half decent!

Now I'm thinking what I need to use to polish? I was thinking 2000-grit automotive sand paper, or a flap wheel attached to a dremmel (that's the only power rotary took I have). Not sure if I need some polishing agent and a buffing wheel?

[joey3108]

If this is not for LOOK, Down to a 400grid should be fine enough already.

2000grid is more for jewelry!

joe

[Howard_Jones]

I agree with Joey, 400 grid is more than "fine " enough, and if a polished finish is wanted, you can start polishing from 320 grid as the finest, but 400 is even better.....
- Use autosol chrome polish with a soft polishing pad. A battery drill is perfect, but you can even do it by hand. 4-5 treatments is what it takes to make it look like chrome.

Ready to polish - last grid size used was 320
http://peecee.dk/upload/view/335642

Half way done
http://peecee.dk/upload/view/335643

All done
http://peecee.dk/upload/view/335644

[neova]

Thanks Joey and Howard!

Used the 400 grit and the grinding marks are now gone.

I forgot the raw carbon steel will rust so after a day the sole now looks like the rest of the club. I torched it a bit to add more discoloration for good measure.

Grinding wedges is fun!

[joey3108]

Here is the one I use:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0000000_nid=P853427V3NbeH55CPWS904gl

[jcannontem]

I have a questions, 1st reason for grinding a wedge and 2nd why are there different types of grinds (C,M,Y) and what is the difference between the 3 and can someone post pics of the different grinds

[jdhallissey]

The grinding of the wedge is simple on paper. To actually make it work like it should on turf is a different beast. The types of grinds give you different types of turf interactions. Effectively giving you 4 different bounces in one wedge. So from a sand shot the wedge still has bounce in it but with the relief grind done with a lot on the heel and toe will let you hit flop shots hard the hard pan. Does that make sense? I don't know your level of golf so I can make it easier to understand by giving you different examples then off sand and turf.

[jcannontem]

I'm pretty knowledgable about the game and I play to 7-9, I'm The GM and Supt of a golf course and understand different turf types, different lies and my swing requires irons with less bounce. Also I live in N Florida and the bermuda goes dormant in the winter leaving more thin or tight lies. Thats one reason I asked the questions so I could better understand the grind process and which type of grind would be best for the application, so to speak. Are Lob wedges the only thing that people usually grind to make the club more versitile?

[jdhallissey]

No if you get a truly custom set of irons from the likes of muira/scratch they will even grind the irons. They will make them so they react differently. You understand how different soil and grasses grow better then the rest of us. I would think you would know the secret to that damn Bermuda ---- and don't tell me not to miss the fairway--- I have learned that one already hahah!!

I know everybody will tell me I am wrong and play the wrong wedges... Wedges are like a great pair of golf shoes... They might be all wrong but feel so right and work. I play wedges that are negative bounce on the heel and toe then the center has bounce. I need the center low bounce for my play. Yes when it gets wet I have to make a note in my head that if I am not careful I will dig to china. I don't believe there is the right bounce for everybody. I believe most low handicaps want less loft so they can play those funky shots.

So to shot shapes --
I normally play everything with a 58 degree. Now if I have a 60 yard shot with a lot of green and the pin on the back shelf I will send a 54 degree into the face and let it skip once or twice and stop dead in it's tracks. I throw almost everything threw the air. I went to England,Ireland,Scotland and when I played turnberry I never once needed to play a bump and run. I really really wanted to trust me but When I can throw little flip wedges everywhere why risk running a ball on the ground?

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='jcannontem' timestamp='1322445088' post='3859665']
I have a questions, 1st reason for grinding a wedge and 2nd why are there different types of grinds (C,M,Y) and what is the difference between the 3 and can someone post pics of the different grinds
[/quote]

The answer to your question can fill a book alone, so i think you are better of with some link to other places on the web where the answers to your question is.

Scratch web pages is very informative. Their philosophy is that as players we belongs to 3 different swing styles, and based on swing style, we have different needs for sole properties. Thats why all Scratch wedges is found as D/D for Digger/Driver, the steepest attack angle, D/S or Driver Slider, the "medium" or regular swing style, and the third S/S or Sweeper Slider, also called "Picker style" swing.

Find your swing style here;
[url="http://www.scratchgolf.com/custom-fitting/online-fitting-tool/"]http://www.scratchgo...e-fitting-tool/[/url]

Look at the options for your swing style here (all 3 styles on the same page so look at the headers)
[url="http://www.scratchgolf.com/tech-talk/grinds/"]http://www.scratchgo...ch-talk/grinds/[/url]
When you choose one wedge, a photo of it with description of whats done and why will pop up.

Titleist got some good info to. Many are not aware of the Custom options Titleist is offering, so check them out if you are Vokey fan. [url="http://www.vokey.com/wedges/detail.aspx?id=47"]http://www.vokey.com...tail.aspx?id=47[/url]

Vokey got many different grinds, and you will find a lot of info about them here;
[url="http://www.vokey.com/tech_central/page.aspx?id=34"]http://www.vokey.com...page.aspx?id=34[/url]
Click on "Read more" in the middle of the page, and you will find what you are looking for.

PING WRX got some grind options with descriptions to.
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/259117-ping-wrx-spring-2009-pdf/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...pring-2009-pdf/[/url]
Go down to post #8 and you will find a PDF - Go to latest page #7.

I think that should be the answer to your question, or talk to Joe Kwok about your game and he will make whatever you will benefit from playing.

[baranowsky71]

just inspired me to do this when i get home from school.... thanks.

[jmygolf]

Thank you for all of your posts in such a beautiful, artful and complex topic!
One question= when you mention creating a "spoon shape" leading edge, do you mean you are "blunting" or "killing" the leading edge? I see some with very sharp leading edges and some, like Scratch or Mizuno JPX800pro, that have the blunted leading edge. Is that what you mean by creating the spoon shape?
Thanx for your detail ahead of time.



[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1301634271' post='3108472']
I hope Joey don't mind me answer your question :-)

The 56* looks like a "light" version of a M -Grind.
- Heel, Toe and Trailing edge relief, but on this one, quite moderate on both heel and trailing edge.

If you grind on a head "of the rack", the golden rule is to start out with a head as close to your target as possible, otherwise you might loose a lot of weight to be replaced.
- Example . Making a Lob wedge with a M grind with 4-6* Bounce for a Picker swing style, will cost a lot of weight if you start out with a wide sole on 16*

The 3 different swing styles got different needs for sole properties, and those might be hard to get, if the object you start with is to far from your target.
- A picker style swing will benefit from a low static bounce, and a low effective bounce.
- The "regular" swing style, will benefit from a medium static bounce, and a medium effective bounce.
- The Digger swing style, will benefit form a high static bounce, and high effective bounce.

It goes down like this.
- Static bounce is due to angle of attack, and turf conditions
- Effective bounce is an expression of total sole contact area.

The Picker type player, will benefit from a leading edge with a deep radius, like a spoon.
- This will make the sole shorter from heel to toe, lowering the sole area in turf contact = less effective bounce
- You can also imagine, that this players miss hits are thin shot's, and that the leading edge is "stretching down" to save that shot.
- Since he don't need much effective bounce, the sole wide from leading edge to trailing edge might be very short = lowering effective bounce.

The Digger type is totally different
- This player needs the highest effective bounce, and to get that we must do like this.
- The leading edge should be at flat at possible (not totally but close). This will make the sole wider from heel to toe = ,more effective bounce.
- The same "Flat" leading edge will prevent him from digging to much (imagine what happens if he chooses the "Spoon" shaped leading edge :-)
- The wide of the sole from leading edge to trailing edge gives more effective bounce, the wider it gets.

The regular swing style - All medium - Not to flat leading edge (to little help on thin shots), not to "spoon shaped" leading edge (digg's to much on fat shots)
- so just go medium all the way for this one.

So depending on swing styles, some object are good to start on, others to much weight loss.
[/quote]

[tyorke1]

can you do all this with a dremel,

[jdhallissey]

You honestly could. It will take a good amount of time (but I see you are in Canada so you have time lol) The method is the same just the tool is different.

[Silva]

I would love to be able to do this!

[onafriday]

Had my fitting with the wizard of wedge himself this evening. Can't wait to see what Joe does for me!!

[mdb0103]

[quote name='jdhallissey' timestamp='1323665988' post='3926549']
You honestly could. It will take a good amount of time (but I see you are in Canada so you have time lol) The method is the same just the tool is different.
[/quote]


Which Dremel attachment would you use?

[namx]

Greetings -

I'm considering replacing some of my wedges, and I'm hoping some the the experts here can help me to understand what kind of wedges I like. I'm about a 3 hcp, and would characterize my wedge play from 110 yds to 10 yds as very strong, my bunker play as resonable, and my greenside play as a major weak spot. My existing wedges are all old Cleveland 900 forged RTG, 'low bounce', have DG x100 shafts and standard L/L/L. (for what it's worth, my irons are 1/2 over lenght and 1 - 2 degrees upright.) I'm not well versed in grinds etc., so I've attached a photo of my 56 degree. Other than being well worn, it's not modified in any way.[attachment=1020881:DSC02778.JPG]

I use and love the 56 degree for everything from 110 yards and in. Although it's a shot I try to avoid, I'm very comfortable with intermediate length shots (60 yards for example). For that shot I open the blade, open my stance, set the ball back in the stance and hit a low pitch (not bump and run) that hits and checks. I'd rather adjust my swing length with the 56 than take a full swing from the fairway with the 60 degree.


On to the area where I'm miserable - close around the green. In these circumstances I'm OK in fluffy lies, and with balls curied in the deep rough, but I'm terrible from the fringe and/or tight lies. I occasionally skull the ball, but more often decel and leave it short for fear of hitting it thin. I thought possible getting a wedge with some relief ground into the sole would help. I bought a vokey 58-08 (photo also attached).

[attachment=1020883:DSC02777.JPG]

It's not a custom grind, but looks like like vokey's M grind or R grind. But when I open this blade up, I only increase the amount of skulls and shanks. The club works fine for shots I already use the 56 for - eg longer pitches, but is not the answer around the green.

So long story short I'l looking for a good greenside wedge. I only use the 60 exclusively for bunker play and the very infrequent flop shot, so that will likely to be the wedge replaced. However, I'm also considering replacing all the wedges, since I'm kind of attached to having matching wedges. A third possible alternative is to have someone grind my 60 degree, but I really wouldn't know what to ask for.

Thanks for indulging such a long and rambling post !

[kev0000]

Awesome Joe, Thanks!!

[DoubleEagleAt12]

I am currently building a pros hop at our new home, Ive gotten big on refinishing and grinding wedges. Right now I only have a 6 in bench grinder with some nylon and deburring wheels, cotton wheels and compounds. Since coming across this thread I have some ?s. should I buy the attachment which means I old need to upgrade my bench grinder, or should I just buy a 4"x36 craftsman. Wouldnt that take 2 of the 2x36 belts that are a must to use that golfsmith and golfworks offers. Or will that 120 wheel on golfworks that I haven't had the courage to buy do the job and can save metal. Just tried of wasting money, wanna make sure I buy the right thing. The 4x36 belt sander is probably the cheapest route.