Grinding a wedge!!!!

[dcr147]

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1141539194' post='136224']
Some of you guys asked me before if i could show you guys a step by step process.

Be aware that operating your tool without caution may give you a severe injury.

It looks very easy but if you never tried it, you will never know how hard it is to make them perfect.

Hope this is help some of your questions.

Joe
[attachment=29343:attachment]Marking and planning!
[attachment=29344:attachment]Start slowly on the area that need grinding the most to have some room for mistakes or a slip. Slow but sure is my best advice
[attachment=29345:attachment]Keep going up slowly and feel your movement along the marking line and the corner area, apply pressure as necessary.
[attachment=29346:attachment]Keep checking on your weight on how far you are going.
[attachment=29347:attachment]Rough finish product.
[attachment=29348:attachment]Flap wheel finishing.
[attachment=29349:attachment]Check your finish product!
[/quote]Hi, I am looking to customize a 1982 Ping Eye 2 V groove SW for play... what grit paper on a hand sander( don't have a belt sander) can I start with on 17-4 SS to remove some heel bounce and possibly the S from the sole? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

[Lufkom]

Nice write up!

[dcr147]

Help please!! I'm looking to grind some bounce down on a Ping Eye 2 SW and ALSO to remove the S from the sole of the club.

I do not have a belt sander, just a hand sander that I use for home repairs. What grit paper/ belt can I put in the hand sander to do this project? What grit do I start with and finish with? Is this possible or am I spitting into the wind??

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='dcr147' timestamp='1390255784' post='8496941']
Help please!! I'm looking to grind some bounce down on a Ping Eye 2 SW and ALSO to remove the S from the sole of the club.

I do not have a belt sander, just a hand sander that I use for home repairs. What grit paper/ belt can I put in the hand sander to do this project? What grit do I start with and finish with? Is this possible or am I spitting into the wind??
[/quote]

Look into this post
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/340408-home-grinding"]http://www.golfwrx.c...8-home-grinding[/url]

[dcr147]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1390284640' post='8499657']
[quote name='dcr147' timestamp='1390255784' post='8496941']
Help please!! I'm looking to grind some bounce down on a Ping Eye 2 SW and ALSO to remove the S from the sole of the club.

I do not have a belt sander, just a hand sander that I use for home repairs. What grit paper/ belt can I put in the hand sander to do this project? What grit do I start with and finish with? Is this possible or am I spitting into the wind??
[/quote]

Look into this post
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/340408-home-grinding"]http://www.golfwrx.c...8-home-grinding[/url]
[/quote]Awesome job on your wedges...what number file or grit sand paper can be used. Thank so much for the info.

[Canesfan101]

I wish I had a wedge to do it with. All of mine are DSG grinds from cleveland. Have you done this to any putters?

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='Canesfan101' timestamp='1390413187' post='8509629']
I wish I had a wedge to do it with. All of mine are DSG grinds from cleveland. Have you done this to any putters?
[/quote]

Ive done Leading edge grind on a few putters. Like with wedges, we can get some forgiveness on fat strokes who might happen.
If you play your Putter both inside and outside the green, or play very different rolling greens with the same putter,you will vary on ball position to change loft and lift to the ball, and then sole shape comes to play on putters too. Those i have done is kind of like your DSG grind, but played the other way if you understand. Leading edge comes a bit higher on the face, and then some radius from face to sole. Tom Wishon S2R Series got a sole grind where also the trailing edge side is shaped to "slip" or be smoother over the turf if you like.

http://www.aussiecustomgolf.com.au/shop/images/S2R-glam.jpg

[Flano]

Great job. How many wedges did you do before you could be fully confident.

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='Flano' timestamp='1391215255' post='8574752']
Great job. How many wedges did you do before you could be fully confident.
[/quote]

Isn't that just a "feeling" or state of mind? do we really get confident in anything in this life, without doing mistakes anyway?
We all does mistakes, but experience makes you to do less of them, but you will never be able to avoid them all, but a common mistake many does to start with is taking way more off then needed, just like i did on that hand job.

The advice's i can give to a home grinder is.
Always start from a head as close to end specs as possible
The less we have to remove, the better it is, because that weight might be hard to replace if its "way off"

We dont start from a 60/12 to make a 60/4 with aggressive heel and toe grind
Dont do anything to Bounce, Camber from leading edge to trailing edge, or camber from heel to toe unless you know what you do.

Good starting jobs, is heel and toe grind, and a reshaped trailing edge to C shape, and leave the rest as it is. Another easy grind job is traling edge grind only like Cleveland DSG grind where a shorter sole length is wanted all over.

A very versatile option a full tralingedge grind like on the DSG, is using the trailing edge grind used on Scratch.As you can see, its mostly the mid section we remove, and progressive less out to heel and toe
The purpose is to give the sole a shorter sole to make it play more like a players iron on full shots, but as soon as it goes down in the turf, its "wide shoulders" comes to assistance to prevent digging. Played open, we actually have a very wide sole length, adding large amount of effective bounce if needed. Its really good as both Gab or Sand, and easy to make from a mid to wide sole wedge..

[attachment=2047628:Trailingedge Scratch.PNG]

Focus on what part of the sole who shall be left when done, and remove as little of the rest as possible to get there.Make it comfortable and safe to do the job, and take your time and enjoy it.

[tommy89]

Has anyone tried the notch grind like on a cobra rusty? I'd like to do it to my MP T-11

[tmaxxracer32]

Great job, will be a handy thread for many people!

[PooN]

Can I grind a Cleveland 588 RTX [b]Black Pearl [/b]wedge?? Is the black just a coating or is the metal actually black. In other words, if I grind down the sole will it show bare silver metal underneath?

[Architect]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1391263964' post='8577318']
[quote name='Flano' timestamp='1391215255' post='8574752']
Great job. How many wedges did you do before you could be fully confident.
[/quote]

Isn't that just a "feeling" or state of mind? do we really get confident in anything in this life, without doing mistakes anyway?
We all does mistakes, but experience makes you to do less of them, but you will never be able to avoid them all, but a common mistake many does to start with is taking way more off then needed, just like i did on that hand job.

The advice's i can give to a home grinder is.
Always start from a head as close to end specs as possible
The less we have to remove, the better it is, because that weight might be hard to replace if its "way off"

We dont start from a 60/12 to make a 60/4 with aggressive heel and toe grind
Dont do anything to Bounce, Camber from leading edge to trailing edge, or camber from heel to toe unless you know what you do.

Good starting jobs, is heel and toe grind, and a reshaped trailing edge to C shape, and leave the rest as it is. Another easy grind job is traling edge grind only like Cleveland DSG grind where a shorter sole length is wanted all over.

A very versatile option a full tralingedge grind like on the DSG, is using the trailing edge grind used on Scratch.As you can see, its mostly the mid section we remove, and progressive less out to heel and toe
The purpose is to give the sole a shorter sole to make it play more like a players iron on full shots, but as soon as it goes down in the turf, its "wide shoulders" comes to assistance to prevent digging. Played open, we actually have a very wide sole length, adding large amount of effective bounce if needed. Its really good as both Gab or Sand, and easy to make from a mid to wide sole wedge..

[attachment=2047628:Trailingedge Scratch.PNG]

Focus on what part of the sole who shall be left when done, and remove as little of the rest as possible to get there.Make it comfortable and safe to do the job, and take your time and enjoy it.
[/quote]

Beautiful grind job Howard. Excellent craftsmanship.

[Howard_Jones]

ohhhhh, this one is all "standard" as it comes from Scratch.,Ive done nothing to it, so thats a Jeff McCoy or Don White design.
The model is 53 DS and the grind is called TNC
http://www.scratchgolf.com/tech-talk.php#grinds

[retrogolfrl]

Hey Joe, that's not a mess, this is a mess!

[joey3108]

That's a piece of art!

[retrogolfrl]

Hey Joe, thats not a mess. This is a mess!

[Tab373]

Hi I have a Ping gorge 58 ss wedge and either blade it over the green or the back part of the sole comes in to contact with the ground 1st. So am thinking about grinding the back parts of the sole. Is this a good idea as I normal play a 4deg bounce vokey and had no problem but have gone to the Ping as matches rest of clubs. So griding the rear/back of the sole will reduce the bounce I'm thinking.is this correct

[joey3108]

Maybe, but that's not the only factors I judge fitting wedges. Did you check if the lie angle correct our not?

Lots of posts here sounds like they need a grind just because it looks cool and didn't even talk about what happen after grind to the specs of the club.

J

[Tab373]

Yes my wedges were fitted using the ping fitting cart by my pro. It's green dot and I'm 6ft 2 but I like to play different shots with the club so thinking a rear grind would be a good place to start

[Nismottgtr]

Anyone use this belt Sander from harbor freight (China) for grinding wedges


http://m.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-36-inch-belt-6-inch-disc-sander-97181.html


[Nismottgtr]

this one

[juice744]

Nismottgtr,
In response to your question. I do occasional wedge grinding. Mostly just trailing edge relief, reshaping a leading edge, some heel/toe relief (not large scale overhaul like you see in the P grind that Joe is doing). I have a small 1x30 upright sander that i got from harbor freight for $35 on sale. Its the smallest one yhey sell. It works just fine as long as you dont try to rush it and take too much material too fast.
My only concer with the machine you show in the picture is that there doesnt appear to be any "slack" spot in the belt where you can push in without hitting a metal surface. This will take away your ability to easily get a smooth rounded shape. You want to have an area where the belt is suspended over air so when you push in in bows and creates a rounding effect around the part your grinding. It looks like you will only be able to get hard angles on that machine. But maybe there is another way of doing it ? Though for less money you can get the 1x30 machinr i have and it would make life easier

[Nismottgtr]

I actually have the same machine you described. Got it a few weeks ago for $28 with a coupon. Didn't consider trying any grinding on it just because of the smaller size. Ill give it a try. Would love to get the jet bench grinder attatchment but that's a pretty steep price for a hobbyist

[juice744]

If you want a grinder attachment just to have, of course.. go get it. However if you are saying you want it for wedge grinding, it not necessary. A 100 grit belt removes material plenty quick.
Besides, the machine is a bit low on power to be doing much grinding with a stone wheel.

I got a brand new in the box bench grinde with a 3/8hp motor from goodwill for $10 !!
I love that place.. lol

By the way, goodwill is a great place to get cheap wedges to practice grinding

[joey3108]

Going Crazy on 4th of July weekend!

[NevadaGolfGuy]

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1404870715' post='9663487']
Going Crazy on 4th of July weekend!
[/quote]

That is awesome Mr. Kwok! I hope you have some room in your schedule because as soon as I figure out how to become independently wealthy you are going to be a busy man...

[joey3108]

[quote name='NevadaGolfGuy' timestamp='1404884191' post='9664567']
[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1404870715' post='9663487']
Going Crazy on 4th of July weekend!
[/quote]

That is awesome Mr. Kwok! I hope you have some room in your schedule because as soon as I figure out how to become independently wealthy you are going to be a busy man...
[/quote] I'll keep that I'm mind and record it .

[juice744]

Joe / Howard ... or anyone whose done this

hope i can justify this being posted under this topic though its not exactly "grinding" a wedge,.. it is modifying.

so here is my question, i like my wedges very heavy but play std. length or at most .25" over. i find that the Cleveland heads are heavier in general than most others so this makes my life a bit easier when building wedges for myself, but some wedges i just simply cannot add enough tip weighting to get the wedge where i need it. even if i could,..i feel like the club closes to quick with so much weight in the hosel.

here is my question. whats the process used for sinking tungeston slugs in the back of a wedge head? is it just getting the head on a drill press with an appropriate sized bit for the weight you have and then epoxy in place?
also, where do i get tungeston cylinders from?

any input is appreciated.

also,.. Joe, i think i saw you did some black vega wedges a page or two back. what did you use to recolor the soles after you took it to bare steel? i have a set of those same vega's and i put a leading edge grind on one and increased the camber on the other, but now they are shiny raw steel and rust easily.


thanks guys

[joey3108]

Finish with torch black oxide.

Here is the recent work with custom engraving and flame oxide finish.

Again, this is not for look only, this is for tight course condition and a better striker players. Not an easy grind to make it perform correctly.

Joe