Grinding a wedge!!!!

[Guest]

Can I just send you my wedges??? Nice Work Man!!!

[jmygolf]

Really fine work. Would love to apprentice under you if I was closer! Have done a fair share of grinding but definitely get a little stuck on the more detailed grinds removing cut-outs from the rear or mid-sole. Your customers must be very satisfied...

[joey3108]

[quote name='sfahrney1' date='12 July 2010 - 02:00 PM' timestamp='1278968446' post='2571262']
Can I just send you my wedges??? Nice Work Man!!!
[/quote]
Definitely! Email me what you need and we'll talk.

THX!

Joe

[quote name='jmygolf' date='19 July 2010 - 04:47 PM' timestamp='1279583246' post='2586778']
Really fine work. Would love to apprentice under you if I was closer! Have done a fair share of grinding but definitely get a little stuck on the more detailed grinds removing cut-outs from the rear or mid-sole. Your customers must be very satisfied...
[/quote]

Thanks!

JOe

[drewski24]

great post!

[ktedc]

Second that! Great Post!

[joey3108]

Thanks guys!

Joe

[taylormadeBRAD]

nice work bruh, bet you can hit some high soft pitchs now!!!

[Gligster]

Looks great. I had my 60 degree done last year and love it!

[patrick2011]

going out to the garage to practice

[hebron1427]

OK. Here's my attempt. I used a grinding wheel instead of a belt sander, which was probably a bad idea. How do you get it to such a smooth/clean grind?

 

It's actually not as bad as it looks, but it sure does look bad...

 

 

 

 

[SeekonkHolen1]

OK. Here's my attempt. I used a grinding wheel instead of a belt sander, which was probably a bad idea. How do you get it to such a smooth/clean grind?

 

It's actually not as bad as it looks, but it sure does look bad...

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is where the belt comes in hady. The grinding wheel got you to the rough finish now you need to soften it up. If you have some metal files you could start there then get some sandpaper and some elbow grease.

[SeekonkHolen1]

and if you think it looks bad there you should see it from here!! LOL sorry I couldn't resist

[hebron1427]

[quote name='SeekonkHolen1' timestamp='1296102861' post='2928386']
[quote name='hebron1427' timestamp='1296100565' post='2928287']
OK. Here's my attempt. I used a grinding wheel instead of a belt sander, which was probably a bad idea. How do you get it to such a smooth/clean grind?

It's actually not as bad as it looks, but it sure does look bad...

[/quote]


This is where the belt comes in hady. The grinding wheel got you to the rough finish now you need to soften it up. If you have some metal files you could start there then get some sandpaper and some elbow grease.
[/quote]

Good call on the metal file. Haven't done sandpaper yet, but, big difference.

[NCGolfDude]

Wow- that is awesome. Sure looks like more art and feel than anything else- imagine a lot of experience in the hands of a craftsman is what's at work. I have a question. I'm refinishing, or going to be refinishing some old Spalding TPM's. Number 1, seems the only way to remove the exterior paint is by light sanding...I've tried chemicals to no avail. Any thoughts? Number 2 (if you don't have time to answer Joe, don't sweat it)...How do I double torch a putter? I have no idea whatsoever, and I've googled without much result. Many thanks, Drew

[Mortician]

My buddy has ground several wedges himself with good results, Thanks for the how to, I will give it a try.

[TitlePured]

Great instruction here! Probably not something for anyone and everyone to try, though... well, maybe on an OLD wedge

[jon0105]

That is cool. I need to get a good sander. might give this a try. I have some old wedges laying around.

[joey3108]

Here is another P grind on a C grind!

[Stu-Co]

OK. Here's my attempt. I used a grinding wheel instead of a belt sander, which was probably a bad idea. How do you get it to such a smooth/clean grind?

 

It's actually not as bad as it looks, but it sure does look bad...

 

 

 

 

This is where the belt comes in hady. The grinding wheel got you to the rough finish now you need to soften it up. If you have some metal files you could start there then get some sandpaper and some elbow grease.

 

That is AWESOME lol

[tbomb]

I'd be curious as to how much head weight was lost in this attempt... Lol

[ndoyle]

[quote name='hebron1427' timestamp='1296251163' post='2933079']
[quote name='SeekonkHolen1' timestamp='1296102861' post='2928386']
[quote name='hebron1427' timestamp='1296100565' post='2928287']
OK. Here's my attempt. I used a grinding wheel instead of a belt sander, which was probably a bad idea. How do you get it to such a smooth/clean grind?

It's actually not as bad as it looks, but it sure does look bad...

[/quote]


This is where the belt comes in hady. The grinding wheel got you to the rough finish now you need to soften it up. If you have some metal files you could start there then get some sandpaper and some elbow grease.
[/quote]

Good call on the metal file. Haven't done sandpaper yet, but, big difference.
[/quote]

Wow, that's a Dick Hart wedge. He was the pro at the course where I grew up caddying (Hinsdale Golf Club). I haven't seen one of those wedges in 15 years. Thanks for the flashback!

[Ray Jackson]

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1297903942' post='2985099']
Here is another P grind on a C grind!
[/quote]

Just picked up tonight my XFTs with Joe's grinds on them and he installed the Spinner+ GD shafts in them.....wow, the man does awesome work. Thanks mate.

[joey3108]

[quote name='Ray Jackson' timestamp='1301024047' post='3086297']
[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1297903942' post='2985099']
Here is another P grind on a C grind!
[/quote]

Just picked up tonight my XFTs with Joe's grinds on them and he installed the Spinner+ GD shafts in them.....wow, the man does awesome work. Thanks mate.
[/quote]

Hi Ray,
Thanks and hope everything work out the way you like it.

joe

[jlww3golf]

Any pics of the custom ground xFT wedges

[joey3108]

The 60* was not ground by me!

[Howard_Jones]

@Joey

A few short questions if you can find the time.....

[b]M/P- Grind[/b]
- Can I improve performance in the sand by by moving the deepest part of the sole more against the Trailing edge?
- The combo M/P is the one I make the most, but I make them like you done here (Callaway style) with the lowest part of the sole to the mid, without knowing to much about what happens with this grind if I move it a bit backwards.
- My idea is to get "more time" on hard fairways before the trailing edge bounces back, since I got more wide on the sole before the trailing edge comes in play.
(Makes it possible to use higher static bounce, without to much problems on hard fairways)
- I also hope it might improve performance down in the bunker as well, ( A bit wider sole by a bit less trailing edge relief, the deepest part more backwards, + 1-2 * static bounce by adjusting the leading edge)

PS! Digger style player.

[b]End Finish after grinding[/b]
- Do you just "leave them", or do you "seal" it with stuff like this or ?
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/reprochrome.html
This is my idea for plated irons and wedges, but so far I just do "Raw's"

[jlww3golf]

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1301620456' post='3107612']
The 60* was not ground by me!
[/quote]

What's the grind on that 56. i noticed you started with the 16* bounce version. Is it easier to do a grind starting with more bounce?

jlww3

[Howard_Jones]

I hope Joey don't mind me answer your question :-)

The 56* looks like a "light" version of a M -Grind.
- Heel, Toe and Trailing edge relief, but on this one, quite moderate on both heel and trailing edge.

If you grind on a head "of the rack", the golden rule is to start out with a head as close to your target as possible, otherwise you might loose a lot of weight to be replaced.
- Example . Making a Lob wedge with a M grind with 4-6* Bounce for a Picker swing style, will cost a lot of weight if you start out with a wide sole on 16*

The 3 different swing styles got different needs for sole properties, and those might be hard to get, if the object you start with is to far from your target.
- A picker style swing will benefit from a low static bounce, and a low effective bounce.
- The "regular" swing style, will benefit from a medium static bounce, and a medium effective bounce.
- The Digger swing style, will benefit form a high static bounce, and high effective bounce.

It goes down like this.
- Static bounce is due to angle of attack, and turf conditions
- Effective bounce is an expression of total sole contact area.

The Picker type player, will benefit from a leading edge with a deep radius, like a spoon.
- This will make the sole shorter from heel to toe, lowering the sole area in turf contact = less effective bounce
- You can also imagine, that this players miss hits are thin shot's, and that the leading edge is "stretching down" to save that shot.
- Since he don't need much effective bounce, the sole wide from leading edge to trailing edge might be very short = lowering effective bounce.

The Digger type is totally different
- This player needs the highest effective bounce, and to get that we must do like this.
- The leading edge should be at flat at possible (not totally but close). This will make the sole wider from heel to toe = ,more effective bounce.
- The same "Flat" leading edge will prevent him from digging to much (imagine what happens if he chooses the "Spoon" shaped leading edge :-)
- The wide of the sole from leading edge to trailing edge gives more effective bounce, the wider it gets.

The regular swing style - All medium - Not to flat leading edge (to little help on thin shots), not to "spoon shaped" leading edge (digg's to much on fat shots)
- so just go medium all the way for this one.

So depending on swing styles, some object are good to start on, others to much weight loss.

[upnort]

Great post!!! Thanks for clearing some things up for me.

[joey3108]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1301630505' post='3108334']
@Joey

A few short questions if you can find the time.....

[b]M/P- Grind[/b]
- Can I improve performance in the sand by by moving the deepest part of the sole more against the Trailing edge?
- The combo M/P is the one I make the most, but I make them like you done here (Callaway style) with the lowest part of the sole to the mid, without knowing to much about what happens with this grind if I move it a bit backwards.
- My idea is to get "more time" on hard fairways before the trailing edge bounces back, since I got more wide on the sole before the trailing edge comes in play.
(Makes it possible to use higher static bounce, without to much problems on hard fairways)
- I also hope it might improve performance down in the bunker as well, ( A bit wider sole by a bit less trailing edge relief, the deepest part more backwards, + 1-2 * static bounce by adjusting the leading edge)

PS! Digger style player.

[b]End Finish after grinding[/b]
- Do you just "leave them", or do you "seal" it with stuff like this or ?
[url="http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/reprochrome.html"]http://www.caswellpl...eprochrome.html[/url]
This is my idea for plated irons and wedges, but so far I just do "Raw's"
[/quote]

[b]M/P- Grind[/b]
- Can I improve performance in the sand by by moving the deepest part of the sole more against the Trailing edge? [b]Definitely, Because that spot are acting as a second bounce. You can even make it wider for more effective bounce.[/b]

- The combo M/P is the one I make the most, but I make them like you done here (Callaway style) with the lowest part of the sole to the mid, without knowing to much about what happens with this grind if I move it a bit backwards.
- My idea is to get "more time" on hard fairways before the trailing edge bounces back, since I got more wide on the sole before the trailing edge comes in play.
(Makes it possible to use higher static bounce, without to much problems on hard fairways)
- I also hope it might improve performance down in the bunker as well, ( A bit wider sole by a bit less trailing edge relief, the deepest part more backwards, + 1-2 * static bounce by adjusting the leading edge) [b]So far you are doing the right tinkerer. Trial and error on how wide and how deep and what angle will give you the best result. I can tell you without knowing your wedge play, swing and skill level.

I don't recommend re chroming, because i never found one that are durable enough for golf club on home use type of plating technique. So many type of hard plating. The only one i recommend if i have to is electroless nickel plating if you start with raw metal.

Mostly i just leave it raw, even the head was chrome originally. It won't effect performance and you can't even see it at address position anyway. To me the big deal part is to bring back the head weight to normal stage.

Joe
[/b]