Callaway BB 2004 Fairway woods

J_Tizzle · July 17, 2005

Can they be shimmed square?

This is pretty much what the title says. I've heard that you can order the big bertha fairway woods from callaway shimmed so the heads sit square. The only problem is that the shaft that I want to try in it (V2 75 X) isn't offered by Callaway, and I've got one in my shop and I don't want to pay callaway extra money for a shaft I already have. Any ideas or instructions would be very apprciated because I"m guessing that I'm not the only person that likes the BB but hates the shut face. Thanks

Johnny · July 17, 2005

personally I'd have Joe Kwok do the work...get the head the shaft and send to him.

J_Tizzle · July 17, 2005

Well that is an option, but my dad went to the golfsmith school and has taught me a lot about it, and I wanted to see if I could learn how to do it because I love the feel of every Callaway FW but hate that shut face, so I can get rid of my ignite, but its the only one I can find that sits square so its in the bag still. We have lots of the club fixing tools so that shouldn't be a problem, but Joe I may be PMing you if nothing else can be figured out. Thanks.

joey3108 · July 17, 2005

Well that is an option, but my dad went to the golfsmith school and has taught me a lot about it, and I wanted to see if I could learn how to do it because I love the feel of every Callaway FW but hate that shut face, so I can get rid of my ignite, but its the only one I can find that sits square so its in the bag still. We have lots of the club fixing tools so that shouldn't be a problem, but Joe I may be PMing you if nothing else can be figured out. Thanks.
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Hope you can see the shim!

Joe Kwok

J_Tizzle · July 18, 2005

I'm guessing thats the shim on the upper right part of the bore-through, what exactly did you use as a shim and is there any pre-installation shaft prep that I would need to do before installing the shaft? Would you recommend to try to do this with a cheaper shaft first to make sure, or is this pretty much screw up proof?

joey3108 · July 19, 2005

I'm guessing thats the shim on the upper right part of the bore-through, what exactly did you use as a shim and is there any pre-installation shaft prep that I would need to do before installing the shaft? Would you recommend to try to do this with a cheaper shaft first to make sure, or is this pretty much screw up proof?
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It's a messy job !!!

I have custom made the wedge first and taper the tip of the shaft slightly to give enough room for the wedge to go in and wedge it tightly. Good glue is the key to have a succesful strong bond. I usually cut a triangle from a use steel iron shaft and grind it a bit to create taper shape.

I really think you should mess around w/ cheap shaft 1st. How and where the wedge go in will determine how the shaft angled in relation to the head.

Understanding how to use your tools properly is the key here. I can't tell you on that aspect, cuz i don't what tooling you have there. You have to be creative on this issue.

Good luck!

Joe

J_Tizzle · July 25, 2005

Joe, can this shim also be done with shafts that are not bore through, I got my hands on an old precept Tour Premium 3 wood that feels money but sits dead shut. Thanks

joey3108 · July 25, 2005

Joe, can this shim also be done with shafts that are not bore through, I got my hands on an old precept Tour Premium 3 wood that feels money but sits dead shut. Thanks
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If that head is 335 tip, it has to be ream first to an angle that will make the shaft sit open and shim it after.

However you'll never know how open it will get, depending on howmuch room the wall of the hosel can be ream.

Plus, you need to modfied the squareness of the top hosel to make the ferrule sit tightly.

JOe

cyborg · August 2, 2005

hey joe.

im just curious.. how many degrees did that fusion fw open up? and also.. how does the effective loft change? thanks! im going to try this with my steelhead III with a .335 shaft.

joey3108 · August 2, 2005

hey joe.
im just curious.. how many degrees did that fusion fw open up? and also.. how does the effective loft change? thanks! im going to try this with my steelhead III with a .335 shaft.
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Varies from head to head.

Most of them will add loft around 1/2* - 1* and will open the face 1* to 1 1/2*. The key is placing the shim/wedge at the right spot and push it tightly at the right angle. It's a messy job when the glue is on there already.

joe

cyborg · August 2, 2005

hey joe.. thanks for the response!

i feel like this is a project that i can do.. but i want to just make sure that im not leaving anything out . i have a steelhead III 3 wood that has a .350 bore. i have an .350 to .335 adapter from golfsmith and i have a .335 fuji 757 shaft. in order to open the face angle, all i would need to do is epoxy my adapter in the head, epoxy my shaft and insert it into the head / adapter. and then before the epoxy dries, wedge in a small triangular piece of steel (from extra steelshafts) in the bottom of the bore in section #3 (see picture below)?? basically "forcing" the shaft to be a "leaner" inside the bore. does this sound like the right plan? thanks again for all your help.

joey3108 · August 2, 2005

hey joe.. thanks for the response!
i feel like this is a project that i can do.. but i want to just make sure that im not leaving anything out . i have a steelhead III 3 wood that has a .350 bore. i have an .350 to .335 adapter from golfsmith and i have a .335 fuji 757 shaft. in order to open the face angle, all i would need to do is epoxy my adapter in the head, epoxy my shaft and insert it into the head / adapter. and then before the epoxy dries, wedge in a small triangular piece of steel (from extra steelshafts) in the bottom of the bore in section #3 (see picture below)?? basically "forcing" the shaft to be a "leaner" inside the bore. does this sound like the right plan? thanks again for all your help. :D

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Pretty good! :drinks:

Let me see how is your finish look like, i might hire you! LOL

Joe