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Ferrule Problems: How To Select Which Size?


EmperorPenguin

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I need your help on this one, my pro GolfWRX clubmakers. I think I am not picking the right size ferrules. I have the ferrule installation tool, but the ferrules I buy do not go on the shaft tightly. They are so loose they go up and down the shaft almost freely, and I think I have to epoxy them in place. I thought the ferrule is supposed to fit very tightly, and an installation tool is needed to force it down. I think I picked the wrong size. In this particular case, I am installing a ferrule on a .350" parallel tip for a wood. The shaft is a Dynamic Gold S300U. The ferrules I bought were clearly listed at .350" inside diameter, which I think is the right size. Did I buy the wrong size inside diameter for a .350" parallel tip?

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Sounds like your shaft is a .335 (or possibly your ferrule is .370?) They should not slide up and down freely, no. I keep a cheap ($10) Harbor Freight digital caliper on my bench for situations just like this. Every clubmaker should have one! :taunt:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-composite-digital-caliper-93293.html

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Sounds like your shaft is a .335 (or possibly your ferrule is .370?) They should not slide up and down freely, no. I keep a cheap ($10) Harbor Freight digital caliper on my bench for situations just like this. Every clubmaker should have one! :taunt:

https://www.harborfr...iper-93293.html

i have the same one!

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General ferrule buying tips:

 

There is no real standard for what the ID's might be or should be based on how they are labeled or sold. In some cases a ferrule labelled for .350 shaft might actually have an ID of .350 (and not be tight at all) or it might be 0.345, .340, .335 or any number really. When buying ferrules, you really need to look at the detailed specs to make sure you are getting what you want/need.

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But the rule is to buy a ferrule with the exact same inside diameter as the shaft tip diameter, right? Or is the ferrule supposed to be a little narrower so it needs to be forced on with a ferrule installation tool?

 

More often then not they will be a little smaller but it's purely personal preference. How much do you want to rely on the tightness to keep it in place vs using epoxy to accomplish that.

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.355 ferrule = .370 I.D. since the tapered tip is but 1/8" or a little bit more, rest of the tip is .370. I often wonder why some advertise the ferrule to be .355.

 

While you are correct about the shaft size (except the taper extends over ~1/2", not 1/8"), Despite that, many .355 ferrules are still actually made with a .355 ID. Yes it's crazy IMO but it happens non-the-less. And yes, it does result in a ferrule that's extremely tight but can still be used (with boiling water to loosen it up to get it into place).

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.355 ferrule = .370 I.D. since the tapered tip is but 1/8" or a little bit more, rest of the tip is .370. I often wonder why some advertise the ferrule to be .355.

 

While you are correct about the shaft size (except the taper extends over ~1/2", not 1/8"), Despite that, many .355 ferrules are still actually made with a .355 ID. Yes it's crazy IMO but it happens non-the-less. And yes, it does result in a ferrule that's extremely tight but can still be used (with boiling water to loosen it up to get it into place).

 

Yes, there are .355 ferrule out there , normally I use them for .350 tip, too much elbow grease to file it open to .370 if doing a proper job with hand tool.

 

.355 ferrule will NOT slide onto the .370 tip . The only way is to file the I.D. with a rat tail file to make it fit.

If forced the .355 ferrule onto the .370 shaft, that will either split the ferrule on a steel shaft or damage the graphite shaft.

Anyone do this on a regular base will know how tight a fit a ferrule should be.

One could epoxy the loose fit ferrule ( won't look great but works ) but should not force a tight ferrule onto a shaft.

I never use a ferrule tool to install ferrule on graphite shaft, even with choices of "lubricant".

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.355 ferrule will NOT slide onto the .370 tip . The only way is to file the I.D. with a rat tail file to make it fit.

If forced the .355 ferrule onto the .370 shaft, that will either split the ferrule on a steel shaft or damage the graphite shaft.

 

Actually it will with no problems - IF you soak the ferrule in boiling water for about 10 seconds. It softens them enough to easily stretch to the proper size. Slips on using the actual hosel to push with no undue effort, no damage to either the shafts (graphite) or ferrule itself. I've done it frequently.

 

The only downside is that you can't really use epoxy effectively to keep them from riding up over time (the fit is too tight to allow any epoxy between the shaft and ID of the ferrule). Usually they are usually tight enough to stay put but not always so it's only something I'd do on my own clubs.

 

Is it better to get a more properly sized ferrule? Certainly! - but there's really no problem using what you already might have.

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