Need some reshafting help

[CarlSpackler910D3]

Have a set of Cobra King forged CB's 5-gw. Got them from Cobra with c-taper 120 stiffs +1/4" in length. Stock swing weight is D2 5-9 and D3 for pw and gw. Because of shoulder injuries and an old wrist injury i'm switching out for some MMT 105 stiffs. I know mitsubishi says only to butt trim these shafts, but when I took the heads off the c-tapers today, the gw, pw, 8 and 6 irons were the only ones to have weights in them. I'm assuming these were in place to get the swing weights to where they needed to be.

 

So my question is, do I worry about what weights were on which irons or do I just check what swing weight is with a dry fit before putting them together and if I have to add a weight to the tip, do I need to trim the tip at all?

 

Yes this is the first time I will be putting a set of clubs together, but figure I have enough common sense to get things figured out before I screw anything up.

[raggal62]

Will you be using brass tip weights?

[CarlSpackler910D3]

I ordered some lead tip weights from golfworks…should I get something else?

[raggal62]

I'm not a big fan of the lead weights for graphite shafts. I don't care for the excess length they add to the tip. Others may disagree. The brass style just add a smidge of length.

[Socrates]

The tip weights are usually needed to account for variations in the head weight.  You should include the weight in the new shafts.  Whether you use the old weights or fit new weights in there is up to you.  But you should add the same amount of weight.   You should have spent a little more and got these:  Rubber Tungsten.  I usually cut most of the large part off to reduce the amount of shaft tip I have to trim off.

[CarlSpackler910D3]

I can still get those, only just placed the order last night

[raggal62]

Are you against using lead tape? Many CB irons have inconspicuous areas within the cavity to add tape without it sticking out like a sore thumb. I use the high density type. Sometimes a little dab will do ya.

[Stuart_G]

On 3/19/2022 at 9:27 PM, CarlSpackler910D3 said:

So my question is, do I worry about what weights were on which irons or do I just check what swing weight is with a dry fit before putting them together and if I have to add a weight to the tip, do I need to trim the tip at all?

 

If possible, It's always best to throw out the old weights and check the swing weight when dry fitting and adjust the weight as necessary to get the desired results.

 

If one doesn't have a swing weight scale and can't check the swing weights, then just re-using the existing weight amounts is better than doing nothing.   It should give you a good chance of ending up with a consistent swing weight through the set - although maybe not the particular target swing weight value you're looking for.

 

But you should never try to use tip weights meant for steel shafts in graphite shafts.  So that would mean replacing the tip weights in your case.

 

 

19 hours ago, raggal62 said:

I'm not a big fan of the lead weights for graphite shafts. I don't care for the excess length they add to the tip. Others may disagree. The brass style just add a smidge of length.

 

That's only a problem for the 6 gm lead weight.   The 2 gm and 4 gm lead tip weights are perfectly fine.  In fact,  when that's all the weight you need there are no better options.  There is no risk of rattles like you can get with the brass weights and they are easy to remove if you ever need to pull and reuse the shafts.   It's also less likely one will need to open up the shaft ID with the lead.   So it's only when you need more than 4 gm that you need to revert to the more problematic brass or tungsten/rubber tip weights.

 

Edited March 21, 2022 by Stuart_G

[Socrates]

5 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

If possible, It's always best to throw out the old weights and check the swing weight when dry fitting and adjust the weight as necessary to get the desired results.

 

If one doesn't have a swing weight scale and can't check the swing weights, then just re-using the existing weight amounts is better than doing nothing.   It should give you a good chance of ending up with a consistent swing weight through the set - although maybe not the particular target swing weight value you're looking for.

 

But you should never try to use tip weights meant for steel shafts in graphite shafts.  So that would mean replacing the tip weights in your case.

 

 

 

That's only a problem for the 6 gm lead weight.   The 2 gm and 4 gm lead tip weights are perfectly fine.  In fact,  when that's all the weight you need there are no better options.  There is no risk of rattles like you can get with the brass weights and they are easy to remove if you ever need to pull and reuse the shafts.   It's also less likely one will need to open up the shaft ID with the lead.   So it's only when you need more than 4 gm that you need to revert to the more problematic brass or tungsten/rubber tip weights.

 

I rarely throw out old tip weights.  Take a few seconds to clean them up and toss them into my bin.  You never know when you need an odd weight or something that you normally wouldn't buy.  It's essentially found money.  Especially the Mizuno ones.  

 

When I buy lead weights, I usually buy the heavier weights if they are the same cost.  You can always cut them down to the weight you need.  I've been frustrated in the past with having a Xg weight and needing X+g and not having a heavier weight.  Side cutters and a sanding belt are your friends.

[Stuart_G]

35 minutes ago, Socrates said:

I rarely throw out old tip weights.  Take a few seconds to clean them up and toss them into my bin.  You never know when you need an odd weight or something that you normally wouldn't buy.  It's essentially found money.  Especially the Mizuno ones.  

 

Sorry, I should have been more clear - I didn't mean it as literally as it came out.  I really only meant throw them out in the context of the particular build.  Throw them out into the recycle bin and start from scratch for the rebuild.    I also generally save old tip weights for use in future builds - if they survive the pull - which usually means mostly just the brass tip weights. 

 

 

 

Edited March 21, 2022 by Stuart_G

[jarediogolf]

Do you have a little kitchen scale? If not get one. It’s great for measuring: - - component weights

- fully assembled club weights

- epoxy by weight for mixing

- cocktail ingredients 

Disassemble your clubs and measure all club heads to see what the weight progression is and see if there is any uneven spacing. 

 

measure all your shaft and grip weights too. Then sort. 

[baetown415]

Weigh all the components first, swingweight everything dry as much as you can (ferrules sometimes don't dry fit), then adjust the weight tips where needed. You can reuse old ones fine if you get the epoxy off of them and make them fit OK.

[CarlSpackler910D3]

On 4/2/2022 at 7:51 PM, jarediogolf said:

Do you have a little kitchen scale? If not get one. It’s great for measuring: - - component weights

- fully assembled club weights

- epoxy by weight for mixing

- cocktail ingredients 

Disassemble your clubs and measure all club heads to see what the weight progression is and see if there is any uneven spacing. 

 

measure all your shaft and grip weights too. Then sort. 

 

 

Well, Ive been slow to do things since I can't play golf anyway with two bad shoulders...but I just weighed the heads after cleaning them all up.

 

5 iron - 254.7

6 iron - 262.2 (had 1.3g weight to bring it to 263.5)

7 iron - 270.8

8 iron - 277.8 (had 1.4g weight to bring it to 279.3)

9 iron - 285.8

PW - 287.2 (had 5.4g weight to bring it to 292.6)

GW - 293.3 (had 3.5g weight to bring it to 296.8)

 

I haven't cut shafts to length yet because i'm not sure what to do about the tip weights. MCA says not to tip trim the MMT graphite shafts so i'm sure I might have to just put a weight in the tip, then measure and cut.

[Stuart_G]

11 hours ago, CarlSpackler910D3 said:

I haven't cut shafts to length yet because i'm not sure what to do about the tip weights. MCA says not to tip trim the MMT graphite shafts so i'm sure I might have to just put a weight in the tip, then measure and cut.

 

Those recommendations for no tip trim doesn't include making room for a tip weight.   For taper tip shafts, you almost have to take a little off the tip (usually 1/8") otherwise the taper will no longer fit the hosel and the shaft will be too loose.    For parallel tip shafts you can adjust for tip weights at either end - doesn't really matter which end.

 

[CarlSpackler910D3]

On 4/14/2022 at 6:23 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

Those recommendations for no tip trim doesn't include making room for a tip weight.   For taper tip shafts, you almost have to take a little off the tip (usually 1/8") otherwise the taper will no longer fit the hosel and the shaft will be too loose.    For parallel tip shafts you can adjust for tip weights at either end - doesn't really matter which end.

 

Wish I saw this first, I cut the shafts to length to do a dryfit swingweight measurement on the golfworks economy scale

 

My order for the original set of clubs with KBS C-taper 120 shafts at 1/4" over standard length showed D2 swing weights and D3 for PW and GW

 

Dry fit swingweight measurements are as follows

 

5 - D7, 6 - D5, 7 - D5.5, 8 - D5.5, 9 - D5.5, PW - D4, GW - D5.5 

[Stuart_G]

5 hours ago, CarlSpackler910D3 said:

Wish I saw this first, I cut the shafts to length to do a dryfit swingweight measurement on the golfworks economy scale

 

My order for the original set of clubs with KBS C-taper 120 shafts at 1/4" over standard length showed D2 swing weights and D3 for PW and GW

 

Dry fit swingweight measurements are as follows

 

5 - D7, 6 - D5, 7 - D5.5, 8 - D5.5, 9 - D5.5, PW - D4, GW - D5.5 

 

That's a little surprising.  I might have expected a little heavier with the +1/4" but not that much.

[CarlSpackler910D3]

On 4/15/2022 at 8:48 PM, Stuart_G said:

 

That's a little surprising.  I might have expected a little heavier with the +1/4" but not that much.

Could be the shaft difference of going from the 120s to the mmt 105s….I guess I could always throw a cb weight in the grip.

[Stuart_G]

5 hours ago, CarlSpackler910D3 said:

Could be the shaft difference of going from the 120s to the mmt 105s….I guess I could always throw a cb weight in the grip.

 

It's possible but not common going to lighter shafts.  Most shaft designers adjust the balance point to compensate for the lighter weight but I've never worked with the MMT so can't say for sure.

 

But weights only help the swing weight scale readings, they don't usually help if the head weight feel is too heavy.  You're just adding more weight to a club that already might feel too heavy.