Thinking of taking up hickory golf.

[Hickory4ever]

I suggest that you go on the Society of Hickory Golfers website and go to their playgroups page. I believe that there are a lot of players in your area .

 

You should go to the SOHG page on building a play set. It is very good.

 

The best place to get clubs is from one of the existing groups, they are always willing to help new players.

 

eBay is the last place I would look for good play clubs. It is important to examine the condition of the club, especially the shafts. It is very important to reset the heads on all the irons since the old glue dries out and play groups can let you know of members that reset heads and can install new grips.

 

As far as a starter set, the basics would be a Brassie (roughly a 2 wood), 4 irons (mid iron, Mashie, Mashie Niblick and Niblick) and a putter. But again, I would refer you to the SOHG website.

 

As for flex, hickory clubs vary, another good reason to not buy unseen. 
 

I am one of the main event organizers for the Golf Historical Society of Canada and introduce new players to the game all the time. It is always better to get connected with local players groups. They usually have loaners for people to try and are always willing to help out new people.

 

 

[Wham49]

20 hours ago, Hickory4ever said:

I suggest that you go on the Society of Hickory Golfers website and go to their playgroups page. I believe that there are a lot of players in your area .

 

You should go to the SOHG page on building a play set. It is very good.

 

The best place to get clubs is from one of the existing groups, they are always willing to help new players.

 

eBay is the last place I would look for good play clubs. It is important to examine the condition of the club, especially the shafts. It is very important to reset the heads on all the irons since the old glue dries out and play groups can let you know of members that reset heads and can install new grips.

 

As far as a starter set, the basics would be a Brassie (roughly a 2 wood), 4 irons (mid iron, Mashie, Mashie Niblick and Niblick) and a putter. But again, I would refer you to the SOHG website.

 

As for flex, hickory clubs vary, another good reason to not buy unseen. 
 

I am one of the main event organizers for the Golf Historical Society of Canada and introduce new players to the game all the time. It is always better to get connected with local players groups. They usually have loaners for people to try and are always willing to help out new people.

 

 

thank you, actually I just met today somebody in my hometown that has "thousands" of hickory that I can go and pick out a set and he will put me in touch with somebody who can work on the clubs. WOuld like to learn to do it myself, it cant be harder than working on modern clubs. thank you

 

would you recommend a cleek,no not a cleek but the higher lofted club after a brassie, between the brassie and the midiron, or no?

 

I would like to get involved for sure, seems like fun, just a matter of finding a group close enough to me. I have heard from a course I play that has  a hickory outing once a year am hoping he can get me in touch with the organizer.

Edited October 20, 2022 by Wham49

[Hickory4ever]

5 hours ago, Wham49 said:

thank you, actually I just met today somebody in my hometown that has "thousands" of hickory that I can go and pick out a set and he will put me in touch with somebody who can work on the clubs. WOuld like to learn to do it myself, it cant be harder than working on modern clubs. thank you

 

would you recommend a cleek,no not a cleek but the higher lofted club after a brassie, between the brassie and the midiron, or no?

 

I would like to get involved for sure, seems like fun, just a matter of finding a group close enough to me. I have heard from a course I play that has  a hickory outing once a year am hoping he can get me in touch with the organizer.

I am glad that you have made contact with someone locally, that will give you the best choice and take advantage of their knowledge.

 

If you can find a wooden Cleek or Spoon to go with a Brassie, go for it. You will want a couple woods if you get into hickory. I made the suggestion of four irons minimum to start, I personally usually play with around six and prefer 5 degree increments. In a four iron set, the biggest gap is between a mid iron (~24-25 degrees) and most mashies are are 35-38. 
 

When choosing clubs, make sure the shafts are long enough and that there is significant swing weight. Many clubs are very light and that is why you see serious players with lead tape on them. For mashies, Mashie Niblicks, and Niblicks, I try and find clubs with at least a little bounce. If you have access to a bending machine, you can always weaken the lofts a little but never strengthen a butter knife blade, it will dig even more.

 

Don’t get hung up on trying to get everything matched, find the best club in the loft that you can find, especially Mashie Niblicks and Niblicks, your scoring clubs. As you get into hickory, your set will tend to evolve which is part of the fun.

 

Virtually every experienced hickory player I know loves to help new players which will raise your knowledge faster. Then go out and give them a try. It is natural for new players to try and play modern tactics. You will find that your appreciation for the ground game will develop and this will help in scoring. Play at least one tee block forward and learn how to play the clubs without forcing shots. 

[Wham49]

28 minutes ago, Hickory4ever said:

I am glad that you have made contact with someone locally, that will give you the best choice and take advantage of their knowledge.

 

If you can find a wooden Cleek or Spoon to go with a Brassie, go for it. You will want a couple woods if you get into hickory. I made the suggestion of four irons minimum to start, I personally usually play with around six and prefer 5 degree increments. In a four iron set, the biggest gap is between a mid iron (~24-25 degrees) and most mashies are are 35-38. 
 

When choosing clubs, make sure the shafts are long enough and that there is significant swing weight. Many clubs are very light and that is why you see serious players with lead tape on them. For mashies, Mashie Niblicks, and Niblicks, I try and find clubs with at least a little bounce. If you have access to a bending machine, you can always weaken the lofts a little but never strengthen a butter knife blade, it will dig even more.

 

Don’t get hung up on trying to get everything matched, find the best club in the loft that you can find, especially Mashie Niblicks and Niblicks, your scoring clubs. As you get into hickory, your set will tend to evolve which is part of the fun.

 

Virtually every experienced hickory player I know loves to help new players which will raise your knowledge faster. Then go out and give them a try. It is natural for new players to try and play modern tactics. You will find that your appreciation for the ground game will develop and this will help in scoring. Play at least one tee block forward and learn how to play the clubs without forcing shots. 

Awesome thank you

 

ya I want a tad of bounce, I’m a little worried about digging too much as I’m pretty aggressive normally, have to change that 

 

I play a lot on frozen ground, which is keeping the ball low and bouncing everything onto the green, so I think that will be my strong suit right away, I am like I said more worried about the long game, not that I can’t hit the clubs, but I have a very high swing speed and don’t want to get caught up in the moment and snap one going after it

 

 

I’ll learn excited for next spring already, a little too late in the year, unless we get one more week later. 
 

thanks for the help, I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions 

[Hickory4ever]

45 minutes ago, Wham49 said:

Awesome thank you

 

ya I want a tad of bounce, I’m a little worried about digging too much as I’m pretty aggressive normally, have to change that 

 

I play a lot on frozen ground, which is keeping the ball low and bouncing everything onto the green, so I think that will be my strong suit right away, I am like I said more worried about the long game, not that I can’t hit the clubs, but I have a very high swing speed and don’t want to get caught up in the moment and snap one going after it

 

 

I’ll learn excited for next spring already, a little too late in the year, unless we get one more week later. 
 

thanks for the help, I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions 

I am always pleased to assist. The biggest challenge for new players is getting too hung up on distance, even with the hickory clubs. That is why I suggest you start out with shorter tees, concentrate on smooth tempo, learn how to use each club. If you look on the SOHG website, even the open division, recommended tees are a little over 6000 yards. When learning, try to keep it to around 5300-5500 and you don’t have to go after it.

 

I play over 100 rounds a year with hickory clubs. I score the same as classic and modern equipment provided the tee blocks are appropriate. Since playing hickory regularly, my long iron game improved regardless of which clubs I am playing. The short game is also better as I have become more creative. I have never struggled with putting and my 1904 Schenectady (centre shafted aluminum mallet) is as good as any putter that I have ever used.

 

I love to play vintage golf and I hope you have as much fun with it as I do.

[Wham49]

playing my first every round with hickory tom. Have not even swung one before so it should be interesting. A local player and the guy who runs or is involved in the local hickory scene is taking me out and letting me use one of his sets, super excited.. It is a course that I am really familiar with so I think that will let me relax and just play. will report out on my findings, if any

[Hammer_Hands]

1 hour ago, Wham49 said:

playing my first every round with hickory tom. Have not even swung one before so it should be interesting. A local player and the guy who runs or is involved in the local hickory scene is taking me out and letting me use one of his sets, super excited.. It is a course that I am really familiar with so I think that will let me relax and just play. will report out on my findings, if any

Let us know how it goes!

[Wham49]

ok, so I got through my forst round yesterday. I really helped that I played a course I am very familiar with Spring Valley just north of the Illinois border. Was built during the hickory era, so plays well for hickory. My playing partner was a local hckory player who is connected to the state org. He was a very knowledgable about the course, clubs, and hickory strategy. Could not have been a better intro to the game. I was given a loaner set from my partner, and they were very nice. some Gibsons, Stewerts, and some kro flites to fill in, one of the woods was a Simpson if anybody knows those makers. Hit the ball much better than I thought I would. Hit the driver at least the first 12 holes very straight with a touch of draw, was able to get the irons around the green, and was able to get up and down plenty, so I made many "hickory par" as my partner says, which is I guess is an  up and down. I was using a Stewert Niblick and was as easy to use and as soft as anything I have played. I know that was the crown of the set and would have a problem finding one in my budget as least right now, maybe in the future if I really play alot I can justify buying one

 

Takeaways, I cant swing more than a half swing on almost all clubs but the Niblick or Mashie Niblick, which it turns out is fine, becaue my partner says I hit the ball farther than most even with that swing. ALso, it keeps the ball in play and dont have to worry about too much digging, tourque on the ball. I can just use my shortgame to keep pace. But love the strategy that is in play. It seems more importantly in hickory that you put yourself in position to make par, not flag hunting to make birdie, which isnt my game to begin with. I have always relied on my shiort game to score. It was very enjoyable, thinking about were to land the ball in front of the green to get it to release the right way for a good putt, that is fun to me

 

So I gues  I am in, going to look at some clubs today after work, going to go slow as I can use the loaners until I get my own set, can evern buy a few of the loaners. Think I want to spend my money of the short game, a good Niblick and mashie niblick for closer to the green

[Hickory4ever]

5 hours ago, Wham49 said:

ok, so I got through my forst round yesterday. I really helped that I played a course I am very familiar with Spring Valley just north of the Illinois border. Was built during the hickory era, so plays well for hickory. My playing partner was a local hckory player who is connected to the state org. He was a very knowledgable about the course, clubs, and hickory strategy. Could not have been a better intro to the game. I was given a loaner set from my partner, and they were very nice. some Gibsons, Stewerts, and some kro flites to fill in, one of the woods was a Simpson if anybody knows those makers. Hit the ball much better than I thought I would. Hit the driver at least the first 12 holes very straight with a touch of draw, was able to get the irons around the green, and was able to get up and down plenty, so I made many "hickory par" as my partner says, which is I guess is an  up and down. I was using a Stewert Niblick and was as easy to use and as soft as anything I have played. I know that was the crown of the set and would have a problem finding one in my budget as least right now, maybe in the future if I really play alot I can justify buying one

 

Takeaways, I cant swing more than a half swing on almost all clubs but the Niblick or Mashie Niblick, which it turns out is fine, becaue my partner says I hit the ball farther than most even with that swing. ALso, it keeps the ball in play and dont have to worry about too much digging, tourque on the ball. I can just use my shortgame to keep pace. But love the strategy that is in play. It seems more importantly in hickory that you put yourself in position to make par, not flag hunting to make birdie, which isnt my game to begin with. I have always relied on my shiort game to score. It was very enjoyable, thinking about were to land the ball in front of the green to get it to release the right way for a good putt, that is fun to me

 

So I gues  I am in, going to look at some clubs today after work, going to go slow as I can use the loaners until I get my own set, can evern buy a few of the loaners. Think I want to spend my money of the short game, a good Niblick and mashie niblick for closer to the green

I am happy that you had a good time trying the hickory clubs. You also did it the right way with a “hickory ambassador” to help you get started. Having an existing group to play with is a great asset. 
 

When building your play set, I recommend you audition each club and find what works for you, don’t worry about getting a matched set. You will find that the more you play, the more you will adapt to a hickory style rather than the modern style. 
 

For your Niblicks and Mashie Niblicks, Stewarts or George Nicholl clubs are hard to beat from playability and are worth getting. I also like having a flanged Mashie such as a Maxwell to compliment them. I am not as particular with the longer irons as long as they have decent swing weights. My preference is 5 degree loft gaps with my irons.

 

Today was our regular Hickory Friday play group outing. It was my 100th hickory game of the season and most of our group play at least twice a week with hickory and/or classic clubs.

 

Welcome to the hickory fraternity from the Great White North.

[Wham49]

1 hour ago, Hickory4ever said:

I am happy that you had a good time trying the hickory clubs. You also did it the right way with a “hickory ambassador” to help you get started. Having an existing group to play with is a great asset. 
 

When building your play set, I recommend you audition each club and find what works for you, don’t worry about getting a matched set. You will find that the more you play, the more you will adapt to a hickory style rather than the modern style. 
 

For your Niblicks and Mashie Niblicks, Stewarts or George Nicholl clubs are hard to beat from playability and are worth getting. I also like having a flanged Mashie such as a Maxwell to compliment them. I am not as particular with the longer irons as long as they have decent swing weights. My preference is 5 degree loft gaps with my irons.

 

Today was our regular Hickory Friday play group outing. It was my 100th hickory game of the season and most of our group play at least twice a week with hickory and/or classic clubs.

 

Welcome to the hickory fraternity from the Great White North.

So I went to look at clubs today after work, the best irons shots I hit all day was with the 2 and 3 of the Gibson superior, I found the 1 and mashie of the Gibson superior as well, the mashie is a later version and has what looks like a half flange, so I’m going to buy the 2 and  3 from my partner so I’ll have 1-mashie in the Gibson superiors, I have a Magregor mashie which is 42 degrees, I also picked up a mills aluminum head putter and a driver

 

all I need is a mashie niblick and a niblick, I’m holding to find Stewarts I got spoiled by using them yesterday, will be hard to settle for anything else 

 

pics are what I picked up today 

 

Edited October 29, 2022 by Wham49

[bcstones]

18 hours ago, Wham49 said:

Takeaways, I cant swing more than a half swing on almost all clubs but the Niblick or Mashie Niblick, which it turns out is fine, becaue my partner says I hit the ball farther than most even with that swing. ALso, it keeps the ball in play and dont have to worry about too much digging, tourque on the ball. I can just use my shortgame to keep pace. But love the strategy that is in play. It seems more importantly in hickory that you put yourself in position to make par, not flag hunting to make birdie, which isnt my game to begin with. I have always relied on my shiort game to score. It was very enjoyable, thinking about were to land the ball in front of the green to get it to release the right way for a good putt, that is fun to me

Interesting….glad you enjoy the hickory game & the difference that “modern” golf introduced (from the time of Arnold Palmer for sure - the philosophy of ‘wacking’ the ball w/every muscle).  
Back in the ‘50s a book was written “Swing the Clubhead” by Earnest Jones. He was an excellent amateur in England prior to WWI & after. He became one of the premier instructors   in the pre-Palmer time period (ie. 1920s-1950s) - Pro’s, amateurs, duffers, instructors all came to him. He stressed letting the clubhead do the work, don’t force your swing (don’t try to hit it hard), be aware of where the clubhead is throughout your swing (hickory shafts not only flex, they twist)….anyway, see if you can find the book. 
Enjoy the Game of Golf

[Wham49]

7 hours ago, bcstones said:

Interesting….glad you enjoy the hickory game & the difference that “modern” golf introduced (from the time of Arnold Palmer for sure - the philosophy of ‘wacking’ the ball w/every muscle).  
Back in the ‘50s a book was written “Swing the Clubhead” by Earnest Jones. He was an excellent amateur in England prior to WWI & after. He became one of the premier instructors   in the pre-Palmer time period (ie. 1920s-1950s) - Pro’s, amateurs, duffers, instructors all came to him. He stressed letting the clubhead do the work, don’t force your swing (don’t try to hit it hard), be aware of where the clubhead is throughout your swing (hickory shafts not only flex, they twist)….anyway, see if you can find the book. 
Enjoy the Game of Golf

I actually have that book, I guess I’ll read it

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, Wham49 said:

I actually have that book, I guess I’ll read it

Yeah, ya should…the Pro, who instructed me in back in the late ‘50s, basically said the same (tho until I read Ernest Jones’ book some 50 years later, did that basic instruction finally sink in 🥸😂)

[Hickory4ever]

10 hours ago, bcstones said:

Interesting….glad you enjoy the hickory game & the difference that “modern” golf introduced (from the time of Arnold Palmer for sure - the philosophy of ‘wacking’ the ball w/every muscle).  
Back in the ‘50s a book was written “Swing the Clubhead” by Earnest Jones. He was an excellent amateur in England prior to WWI & after. He became one of the premier instructors   in the pre-Palmer time period (ie. 1920s-1950s) - Pro’s, amateurs, duffers, instructors all came to him. He stressed letting the clubhead do the work, don’t force your swing (don’t try to hit it hard), be aware of where the clubhead is throughout your swing (hickory shafts not only flex, they twist)….anyway, see if you can find the book. 
Enjoy the Game of Golf

When playing hickory golf, a smooth tempo is rewarded. It does not necessarily mean that you are employing a half swing. I have introduced a  number of very good players to hickory play and you might be surprised at how far they can hit a Brassie or Driver. The key is smooth acceleration of the club.

 

I have observed drives of 275+ routinely by two very good players using one of my Wilsonian Brassies (original). We also have two guys that used to compete in long drive competitions that have become good hickory players. The key is a smooth tempo.

 

My suggestion for a good book to read is Playing Hickory Golf by Randy Jensen. He is arguably the best contemporary hickory player and has won more events than anyone. The book is well written and covers the equipment and swing. It is a must read for any serious player.

 

The Society of Hickory Golfers website also has a lot of good information including information on recommended tee yardage. 
 

You may be surprised at how well you can score. My scores with hickory clubs are identical to my modern sets playing the right deck. I have a Golf Canada hickory handicap that is within 4 strokes of my modern index. The difference is essentially the difference in the course rating of playing one tee forward.

 

 

Edited October 30, 2022 by Hickory4ever

[bcstones]

3 hours ago, Hickory4ever said:

My suggestion for a good book to read is Playing Hickory Golf by Randy Jensen. He is arguably the best contemporary hickory player and has won more events than anyone. The book is well written and covers the equipment and swing. It is a must read for any serious player.

Thanks for the suggestion...I'll look for the book. 

I'm thinking that perhaps Randy Jensen & "smooth tempo" might be similar to Ernest Jones & "let the clubhead do the work" & even similar to that Pro Instructor's "just swing"....

Thanks again for the book suggestion...

[Hickory4ever]

Randy Jensen’s book helps a modern player adapt and the information on club acquisition and playability will save a lot of trial and error.

 

I love the early books as well. 

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

I knew and played with Randy. Super player and a total gent. I recommend his book for any hickory player.

[Wham49]

On 10/29/2022 at 7:40 PM, Hickory4ever said:

When playing hickory golf, a smooth tempo is rewarded. It does not necessarily mean that you are employing a half swing. I have introduced a  number of very good players to hickory play and you might be surprised at how far they can hit a Brassie or Driver. The key is smooth acceleration of the club.

 

I have observed drives of 275+ routinely by two very good players using one of my Wilsonian Brassies (original). We also have two guys that used to compete in long drive competitions that have become good hickory players. The key is a smooth tempo.

 

My suggestion for a good book to read is Playing Hickory Golf by Randy Jensen. He is arguably the best contemporary hickory player and has won more events than anyone. The book is well written and covers the equipment and swing. It is a must read for any serious player.

 

The Society of Hickory Golfers website also has a lot of good information including information on recommended tee yardage. 
 

You may be surprised at how well you can score. My scores with hickory clubs are identical to my modern sets playing the right deck. I have a Golf Canada hickory handicap that is within 4 strokes of my modern index. The difference is essentially the difference in the course rating of playing one tee forward.

 

 

I started with a half swing, to keep the ball moving forward. I would say that when I said half swing, I really mean half power. I was still getting the ball out there 250 i'd say. As I get more comfortable and swing my own clubs. I may get a little more snap to it. I started out the day on the second hole hitting a spoon into a par 5,, and the club head followed the ball down the fairway to my horror. My partner and the owner was really nice and yesterday he worlked on the club and it seemed like the problem was in the head not the swing, but was really hesitant to swing very hard the rest of the day, but I did score well, maybe only a couple strokes worse thatn usual.

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, Wham49 said:

I started with a half swing, to keep the ball moving forward. I would say that when I said half swing, I really mean half power. I was still getting the ball out there 250 i'd say. As I get more comfortable and swing my own clubs. I may get a little more snap to it. I started out the day on the second hole hitting a spoon into a par 5,, and the club head followed the ball down the fairway to my horror. My partner and the owner was really nice and yesterday he worlked on the club and it seemed like the problem was in the head not the swing, but was really hesitant to swing very hard the rest of the day, but I did score well, maybe only a couple strokes worse thatn usual.

I'll bet the owner/lender was more horrified than you when the head followed the ball...btw, how far did the ball travel & where did it land? Oh, yeah....the head also - how far?

Edited October 31, 2022 by bcstones

[Wham49]

41 minutes ago, bcstones said:

I'll bet the owner/lender was more horrified than you when the head followed the ball...btw, how far did the ball travel & where did it land? Oh, yeah....the head also - how far?

lol, I never found the ball, the owner said it was long down the middle, with a draw, he watched the ball, I watched the clubhead, I would say a good 30 yards on the clubhead. It was like it was spring loaded, I felt the contact with ball, and the head just realeased like I was casting a rod underhand, the whipping looked like the fishing line, until it got to the end. There were tons of leaves on the ground, so I ran and find the club immediately and when we went to look fo the ball, didnt want to put time into it, so I just dropped, where he thought it was.  yesterday when he called to say he fixed it, he said as it looked that there was not any glue in the head. is was machine fit long ago he just re whipped it and regripped it. I thought something was weird when I looked at the shaft because it di d not have any glue on it, or inside the head, 

I think that he, my partner that is, should be talked about on here. He is starting to craft his own feathery clubs. I swung some yesterday, the longnosed spoons and such, really beautiful, interesting how the game has evolved. so we had a to spec replica of the tom morris putter, a couple of real antiques and his homemade clubs. Might be fun to play, on a par 3 course maybe,  surprised at how light a feathery is and how heavy a club is. He is going through the clubs I just bought last week, pulling the shafts and regripping

Edited October 31, 2022 by Wham49

[Nickc]

On 10/30/2022 at 1:40 AM, Hickory4ever said:

My suggestion for a good book to read is Playing Hickory Golf by Randy Jensen

Thanks for this...just downloaded the PDF lots of useful info ...including club selection and repair and maintenance of clubs.

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

15 hours ago, Wham49 said:

lol, I never found the ball, the owner said it was long down the middle, with a draw, he watched the ball, I watched the clubhead, I would say a good 30 yards on the clubhead. It was like it was spring loaded, I felt the contact with ball, and the head just realeased like I was casting a rod underhand, the whipping looked like the fishing line, until it got to the end. There were tons of leaves on the ground, so I ran and find the club immediately and when we went to look fo the ball, didnt want to put time into it, so I just dropped, where he thought it was.  yesterday when he called to say he fixed it, he said as it looked that there was not any glue in the head. is was machine fit long ago he just re whipped it and regripped it. I thought something was weird when I looked at the shaft because it di d not have any glue on it, or inside the head, 

I think that he, my partner that is, should be talked about on here. He is starting to craft his own feathery clubs. I swung some yesterday, the longnosed spoons and such, really beautiful, interesting how the game has evolved. so we had a to spec replica of the tom morris putter, a couple of real antiques and his homemade clubs. Might be fun to play, on a par 3 course maybe,  surprised at how light a feathery is and how heavy a club is. He is going through the clubs I just bought last week, pulling the shafts and regripping

 It's a very familiar story. And that is why any wooden headed hickory MUST have the head removed and reglued with epoxy before use. Lots of people lose club heads in this way, first one I saw was into a pond...first hit with a 'new to him' club.

[Wham49]

4 hours ago, The Aspidistra in the Hall said:

 It's a very familiar story. And that is why any wooden headed hickory MUST have the head removed and reglued with epoxy before use. Lots of people lose club heads in this way, first one I saw was into a pond...first hit with a 'new to him' club.

well I am 6.4 320, so even my "smooth" 3/4 swing with the hickory is pretty strong, so I thought it was me, thought I would not be able to play with them. The ones I bought for myself, he is pulling the shafts on, and giving extra whipping, to try to not have any issues.

 

He couldnt have veen cooler about it, said it happens and nit to worry keep playing and he doubts it will happen again

[Nickc]

On 9/3/2022 at 9:47 AM, Nickc said:

Thanks,

Had another round yesterday with a friend (him playing modern clubs)  I seem to have sorted out tee height - simply same as for normal driver..or about 1/2 ball above the brassie crown and off left heal. For my brassie that is a smidgen over 1/2 inch.

Ball flies amazingly straight (mostly!)

Have subsequently found that for a brassie I now prefer to tee it lower..more like as for a 3 wood (especially seeing as the loft is similar) so that I am hitting more down as it is essentially a fairway wood being used off the tee.

More consistent results.

I now do have a driver but have yet to try it out . As this is a lower loft will probably try teeing this higher as per a normal driver.