Dynamic Gold R300U shafts

[JohnSpaxman]

Has anyone come across these?

 

have seen them in a set of Srixon irons I’m looking at but can’t find anything about the ‘U’ version.

 

thanks  

[Yacho]

I'm pretty sure the "U" designates a parallel tip shaft.

 

the U stands for "unitized"

[Yacho]

Regarding your application of possibly purchasing a used set of irons, what you should be aware of when you see parallel shafts in there is that they may not play to the flex that the sticker shows (r300).  The clubmaker could have very well soft-stepped or hard-stepped the shafts to taste, since parallel shafts come as uncut blanks and requires the builder to tip them to flex, and then butt-cut them to length.

 

Doesn't make this necessarily good or bad, but it's not the same as walking up to a set of taper tip R300's (without the "U") and knowing exactly how they're going to play.  Just something to be aware of. 

 

Also, I don't know specifics about Srixons, but I would highly doubt that the hosels were originally meant for .370" parallels, meaning they have probably been bored out.  Again, not a problem if it was done well, but something to consider if you are planning to re-shaft them in the future.  You would need either parallel .370's, or shims to allow for taper tip .355" shafts

Edited April 19 by Yacho

[NRJyzr]

1 hour ago, JohnSpaxman said:

Has anyone come across these?

 

have seen them in a set of Srixon irons I’m looking at but can’t find anything about the ‘U’ version.

 

thanks  

 

43 minutes ago, Yacho said:

I'm pretty sure the "U" designates a parallel tip shaft.

 

the U stands for "unitized"

 

 

Something to add to this discussion...

 

The shaft bands for both the tapered and parallel versions of DG shafts are the same band.  At one end, you'll see DGR300, the other end will have the U added to the end of the designation.

 

The main point being, seeing the U on the label doesn't necessarily mean they are parallel shafts.  For DG, you can use the crescent wrench test to be sure.  DG tapered shafts taper constantly from the tip to the bottom of the first step, such that a crescent wrench set to snugly fit at the tip will not be able to slide up the tip.  With DG parallel, it's the same .370" from the bottom of the first step to the tip.

 

[Yacho]

22 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

The shaft bands for both the tapered and parallel versions of DG shafts are the same band.  At one end, you'll see DGR300, the other end will have the U added to the end of the designation.

 

Good catch, and good double check method.  Here's a couple different TT shaft bands I've got stuck to my beer fridge 

 

 

Looks like there's a couple different variations.  I've also seen labels from parallel shafts with "R" on one side, and "S" on the other, because they both use the same blanks, it just becomes regular or stiff depending on how much you tip them.

[NRJyzr]

Another fun note on the wrench test for taper vs parallel:  it works with DG shafts, but did not work with the old Rifle shafts.  Rifles used the same shafts for both parallel and taper, trimming to frequency from blanks, and would swage the tips of the shafts sold as taper.

 

I haven't kept up with how many other (tapered) shafts are done with a swaging process.

 

Edited April 19 by NRJyzr

[Pepperturbo]

51 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

 

 

Something to add to this discussion...

 

The shaft bands for both the tapered and parallel versions of DG shafts are the same band.  At one end, you'll see DGR300, the other end will have the U added to the end of the designation.

 

The main point being, seeing the U on the label doesn't necessarily mean they are parallel shafts.  For DG, you can use the crescent wrench test to be sure.  DG tapered shafts taper constantly from the tip to the bottom of the first step, such that a crescent wrench set to snugly fit at the tip will not be able to slide up the tip.  With DG parallel, it's the same .370" from the bottom of the first step to the tip.

 

It's been my experience that what's etched on the butt-end of the shaft has more significance than labels.  Px etched a code on the butt section that detailed shaft specs.

[Drewhill44]

I always thought that the "U" means "Under", as when the Shaft label is applied the "U" side of the sticker is under where the sticker overlaps.  Has nothing to do with a version of shaft.

Edited April 19 by Drewhill44

[Nessism]

8 minutes ago, Drewhill44 said:

I always thought that the "U" means "Under", as when the Shaft label is applied the "U" side of the sticker is under where the sticker overlaps.  Has nothing to do with a version of shaft.

 

As mentioned, U = unitized, aka .370".  True Temper saved money by printing one shaft label part number, instead of two.  So it's up to the builder to overlay the label in the appropriate way, so either the standard S300, or the S300U shows, as appropriate.

[Howard_Jones]

It very easy to figure out what they are, the Taper and Parallel version, DONT have the same step pattern, so never mind labels, and no need to remove the grip and look for shaft codes.

Step length on taper is 1.75"
Step length on parallels is 1.88"

So we dont even have to count them, just measure one of them and the question is solved

[Howard_Jones]

If they are Parallels, you can also judge TIP trim, by taking a measurement from the top of the hosel to first step, and use this chart for reference to "standard" tip trim

[Yacho]

Every day @Howard_Jones posts to a topic I'm following, I get smarter.