Help me build a set of clubs, and blueprint

[tobybear]

looking to make MY perfect set

So thanks to the GS F&F sale i was able to pick up a set of 675b's that i have been drooling over since i sold my 600b's in the winter. 4-pw and i also picked up just to try it out, a killer Bee B-long (square) hybrid. Now i have built sets before and i loved my 600's. I also found that the head weights were so close to the factory spec's plus of minus a couple grams that i just glued and cut to length. I LOVED those clubs and knew my distances down to 2-3 yards for every irons. This time i want to get more precise and do a full blueprint. Im going to use s300. and i plan on using my newly aquired spine tool to chech the shafts. After using my spine tool i will the use me frequency machine to measure the shafts.
Only thing is i have a couple question for those who have done this before and would love to hear any and all suggestions when it comes to doing this:

-After i spine the shafts what way do i to make sure the shafts are frequencied properly?
-Do i cut too long and then tip trim to get the right frequency for each club?
-Where can i find a frequency chart to help propery slope the shafts?
-What should i to to remove weight from certain heads? (I think drilling a bit out of a hosel works right?)

Any other info would be great. Also to help those help me I will be building this set to +1/2" over PING std length.

[attachment=330127:675b_build_chart.jpg]

[LowPost42]

First, since you seem to be OK with 'a gram or two', why not simply increase your required head weights by 1.5g? This will eliminate the need to drill or grind as your biggest weight removal is 1.5g? Now you add no weight to the 7i, and add weight to the other heads only. Just a thought.

 

As for your freq slope, dry cut your longest club with the tipping you choose and measure. Then dry cut your your shortest club with the tipping you choose and measure. Do the math to figure out your freq slope. Then to hit it, you tip trim a little at a time (known as nibbling) and then you continually check at playing length in your FA. Granted, this only works if you can let shaft stick out of the back of your clamp.

 

I assume you're going to pay to have your heads bent into spec?

 

I'd consider bending that 52 to 54 to cover the gap between the 10 and the 60.

 

As for your spine, I like S1 to 12 o'clock.

[tobybear]

Thanks. I never really thought about starting at the longest clubs and working down for there, that seem like it would offer the most consistant way to frequecy the set.

Also when you say that i could just add 1.5g to each head how heavy would that make the swing weight if i was to buid the set at plus 3/8" or 1/2"?

 

When it come to the gaps in the wedges I have used 53 and 59-60 for quite some times now. I find that i can use the 53 for longer bunker shots and ANY shot inside of 110-60 yrds. And then i use my lob wedges from there.

 

I forgot to ask but should I build the set from my favourite club (say a 6i) and use 3/8" betwee clubs, which is consistant with MOI matching or stick with the std 1/2" between clubs?

 

I have only ever used 1/2" but think that having a little bit extra langth in the short iron would be a good thing.

 

Any more help woud be great.

[Grum]

First, since you seem to be OK with 'a gram or two', why not simply increase your required head weights by 1.5g? This will eliminate the need to drill or grind as your biggest weight removal is 1.5g? Now you add no weight to the 7i, and add weight to the other heads only. Just a thought.

 

As for your freq slope, dry cut your longest club with the tipping you choose and measure. Then dry cut your your shortest club with the tipping you choose and measure. Do the math to figure out your freq slope. Then to hit it, you tip trim a little at a time (known as nibbling) and then you continually check at playing length in your FA. Granted, this only works if you can let shaft stick out of the back of your clamp.

 

I assume you're going to pay to have your heads bent into spec?

 

I'd consider bending that 52 to 54 to cover the gap between the 10 and the 60.

 

As for your spine, I like S1 to 12 o'clock.

 

 

Sound advice.

 

When measuring frequency through the set of shafts, remember and measure at the same/orientation in terms of the spine/flo lines. No point spining and floing and measuring frequencies in all higgilty piggilty places. Decide what spine/flo orientation you want and measure along that axis.

[LowPost42]

The extra 1.5g will increase the club another swingweight point.

 

I like the idea of working off your 6 iron. The two 'rough' MOI matches are 0.4" and 7g heads or 0.5" steps and 8g heads. Neither are 'perfect', but it's a good taste of an MOI'd set.

[tobybear]

So your saying I should use the 6 iron (38" because I usually play my clubs at plus .5" and really feel comfortable) as my base and build each club 3/8" of an inch longer and shorter? I do like that idea for both the longer and shorter clubs.

 

Also because I add the weight to each head to bring then all 7 grams apart ( and slighty heavier then std) from each other that would help build a set that would be MOI matched right?

 

Like i said before I have never build a set to match a particular MOI value but i think that building a set to a slightly higher swing weight that will be MOI matched because if the way i build them would be benificial.

 

Regards to the frequency and spinning of the shafts. DO i spine before of after i cut the raw shafts?

Also after i do that and mark the spines i place the NBP towards the target correct?

Please see my diagram (i made in paint) to see if i am understanding this concept correctly.......

New Build Chart:

 

 

 

Spining demonstration?:

 

[tobybear]

So After RE-reading the direction left by Lowpost I once again revised my chart and really believe that i have it 100% right this time.

 

I have now:

 

Adjusted the desired head weights to be 1g heavier so i dont have to remove weight from any head and just have to add to those that are under weight. The one that would still need the weight removed (7 iron) I'm not going to worry about because i know ive had heads further off then that and not had any problem.

 

Changed the playing lengths of all the clubs excluding the 6 iron because I always seem to like my 6 iron playing at 38" (+1/2") and now i will have 3/8" between clubs instead of the standard 1/2" incriments (sp?) So my longer irons will play a bit shorted and my short irons play a bit longer. This is my attempt to MOI match this set.

 

So if you get the chance take a look at my chart and see if it all makes sence:

 

 

 

Thanks.

PS: I have probably used excel more for building clubs and keeping specs and stats then I ever did my entire post secondary education.....You know your a golf nut when :cheesy:

[LowPost42]

That excel chart looks awful similar to something I'd reference on my own workbench - well done.

 

As for spining, do it after you've cut to length (both tip and butt). And your orientation is correct (although I like to work in terms of spine, and put the strongest spine to 12 o'clock.)

 

Sounds like you're just about ready to build.

[tobybear]

Thanks for all your help.

 

Ya im ready to build very soon. I just need the hosel weights or tip weights (do you have a preference) and ill be ready to build.

[LowPost42]

No preference - it's good to have both. Not all clubheads have hosel weight ports. Sometimes in extreme cases it's nice to be able to use both a hosel and a tip weight to hit a target.

[tobybear]

The really sad thing about building this set is the fact that i feel like such a newbie, I mean i've build many sets before and even built a set for a PGA tour pro who has won around the world but for some reason this way of assembly seems very fresh to me.

 

Ok so im about set to put these clubs together I just have a couple more questions about the assembly......

 

Because im building over length and using a heavier swing weight should i try and tip the shaft a bit more then normal so i can achieve the proper frequency that is seen on the true temper website: Dynamic gold shaft specs

or do i just leave it as is, tip to the recomended length and glue?

 

Also when trying to achieve the proper frequency should i measure by tipping and measuring with the 205g weight that comes with the cpm machine or with the heads dry assembled?

 

If you can think of anything else i could do please just post it.

 

Also after much consideration im not going to spine the shafts, im only going to FLO them using my freuency matchine since after reading for hours on the subject i still cant find demonsterable proof that alligning the shaft by any other way then FLO'ing and then frequency matching can create a poorly performing club.

[LowPost42]

Use the actual heads with the actual weights. What good is building to a slope with a 205g weight when NONE of the heads in the iron set are going to weigh that? Your slope will immediately and automatically be out the window.

[tobybear]

thanks a ton.

Im going to post all the spec when i finish the build to show the process and hopefullly other people will find this subject useful.

[CooGAR]

Just a note.....adding 1/2 inches to a club's length adds about 3 swingweights. Be sure to account for this.....

 

I guess 3/8" would add about 2 SW.

 

Also, if you want to counterbalance your heads that you show need weight subtracted from them, just weigh your grips and use grips that are the heaviest of the bunch. As others have said though......1 to 1.5 gms is not that big of a deal.