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Taylor Made 2007 R7 TP irons cast tour vs retail Pics...


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Here is a comparison between the 2007 Taylor Made R7 TP irons cast tour vs retail. The tour set came straight off the PGA and the serials are on the 7 iron just as the retail. Probably an early release so the serials are slightly different. Lie angle gives the appearance the hozel is shorter on the tour issued R7 TP but they are darn close. Same head if you ask me. Only notable difference is the serial number size and placement. Will have some more in a few weeks to give more specifics...

 

 

Cavity and face is EXACTLY the same. Nothing different. The tour set as the all black ferrules...

 

 

 

 

 

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I am currently playing the R7 TP's, and they have to be the best iron I have ever played, and I've played almost all of them. I spent 2 years bringing my ball flight down, and now am trying to elevate it again. These irons are the best marriage of low offset, forgiving I've ever hit. I have told my boys to punch me in the nads if I switch irons this year. Unbelievable. Even more forgiving than the X20 Tours, (which I didn;t like much at all.) I'm happy to see them getting great reviews. I couldn;t be happier.

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I am currently playing the R7 TP's, and they have to be the best iron I have ever played, and I've played almost all of them. I spent 2 years bringing my ball flight down, and now am trying to elevate it again. These irons are the best marriage of low offset, forgiving I've ever hit. I have told my boys to punch me in the nads if I switch irons this year. Unbelievable. Even more forgiving than the X20 Tours, (which I didn;t like much at all.) I'm happy to see them getting great reviews. I couldn;t be happier.

 

 

These designs are sharp. Graphics aside the all around shape of these heads are incredibly "bladish" for the amount of cavity you get. How they are able to move the weight around and maintain the excellence in shape is amazing to me. Bravo to TM for another world class design.

:( :( :( ;)

 

Anyone else notice the metal looks to be much higher quality on the tour set? ;)

 

 

Funny. I am as picky as they get. When I lock in on a set of irons I would pay the extra $$$ for the slightest advantage.

 

However when we are dealing with castings it levels the playing field a little. I have both of these sets in the basement and I honestly wouldn't care which head made it into the bag. Why? Aahhhhh, there is nothing different between the 2.

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Richard, do you know if the headweights are any different in the tour set compared to the retail??

 

This is actually one of the first TM irons that I've thought about bagging in a long time. I agree with everything you said in the above post, it's amazing what they can do these days. They look great from the top, and forgiving from the back...just the way it should be :(

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Richard, do you know if the headweights are any different in the tour set compared to the retail??

 

This is actually one of the first TM irons that I've thought about bagging in a long time. I agree with everything you said in the above post, it's amazing what they can do these days. They look great from the top, and forgiving from the back...just the way it should be :(

Michael,

You could find a more precise and even difference in headweights up through the set in the tour-issues.

At least that's what I found to be true in my RAC LT tours compared to a retail set :(

 

The R7 TP's will find way to my bag next year. No doubt about that :(

 

cheers,

Soeren

My bag
TM SIM2 Max driver, G425 Max woods, Titleist 818 hybrid, Srixon Z565 irons, Vokey SM7 wedges, Yes Tracy III putter

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I had this discussion with Richard many weeks ago.

 

I got a set from TM UK. Had to have the set sent back for adjustments (wrong shaft) and spoke to TWO people a CS rep and one of the custom build guys.

 

BOTH of them said there is ONLY ONE HEAD, no TOUR ONLY head. The custom build guy actually asked if I had read it on another forum.

 

I got my wrists slapped and a post deleted on that other forum for stating info I read here a few weeks ago. I have since posted the above info and the post is still there for all to read, yet they still offer them for $1400.

 

GUYS PLEASE SAVE YOUR MONEY, THERE ARE NO TOUR ONLY VERSIONS.

 

p.s. On a side note, the custom build guy said that on tour they would be more specific on the weight increments from head to head. I think mine came with an 8 gram difference between heads.

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Richard, do you know if the headweights are any different in the tour set compared to the retail??

 

This is actually one of the first TM irons that I've thought about bagging in a long time. I agree with everything you said in the above post, it's amazing what they can do these days. They look great from the top, and forgiving from the back...just the way it should be :(

Michael,

You could find a more precise and even difference in headweights up through the set in the tour-issues.

At least that's what I found to be true in my RAC LT tours compared to a retail set :(

 

The R7 TP's will find way to my bag next year. No doubt about that :(

 

cheers,

Soeren

 

So are you going for a set of Tours or off the rack retails Søren??

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So are you going for a set of Tours or off the rack retails Søren??

 

I'll just get a retail TP 0.355 set customfit...no fuss. I'm in doubt on which shafts to pick - maybe I should try a set of DG LITE's. They should have a slightly softer feel to them I've heard :( .

My bag
TM SIM2 Max driver, G425 Max woods, Titleist 818 hybrid, Srixon Z565 irons, Vokey SM7 wedges, Yes Tracy III putter

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I had the pleasure of hitting a few shots with a Tour Van set of R7 TP's with PX6.0's. The reason I put 'tour cg' on my post at BSG is that I wanted it in the tour section - that seems to get more responses though I know they are exactly the same. I will say that they are freaky long in my hands... I hit an impossibly high 7i so freaky long that I'm not quite sure it was real. They guy who owns the set was just in shock. Anyway, I now have a set on the way :( I think I may be close to saying my bag is set once I decide on wedges and get a Slighter putter made up.

Clayton

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I think the real difference is the center of gravity being a tad bit higher in tour issue irons to reduce spin and lower trajectory a bit which pros need anyway. And more consistent weight club to club as well. That's about it.

 

Pretty much 99% of us won't know the difference anyway so stick with retail version to save $$$$$$. I think a custom fit tour version is around 1800 dollars....

 

 

OK if you INSIST there is a difference in the location of the CoG let me quote a wee bit from Tom Wishons book.

 

....the variation in shot height from a 3-4mm vertical difference of the CG is minimal at best. Very minimal. Like not quite one degree in launch angle hogher (or lower) minimal.
The Search For The Perfect Golf Club page 55.

 

Now to move the vertical CoG for more than 1 degree of launch you need to move the CoG more than 4mm.

 

Richard, to put this one to bed for all the doubters, could you take a side by side photo of the back cavity to show the Inverted Cone (where CG is supposed to be)?

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I totally agree that most of us would not know the difference even if there is a difference in the tour vs. the retail TP model.

 

I just recently received my set of TP's. I had them custom ordered through my local Golf Galaxy shafted with PX 5.5's.

Took all of two weeks to get them! I could not believe how fast they made them!

The clubs are awesome to say the least. Keep in mind that I have been a forged iron player most of my life. These are some of the best feeling cast irons I have hit to date. Fairly forgiving and very long!

I highly recommend these to you!

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I think the real difference is the center of gravity being a tad bit higher in tour issue irons to reduce spin and lower trajectory a bit which pros need anyway. And more consistent weight club to club as well. That's about it.

 

Pretty much 99% of us won't know the difference anyway so stick with retail version to save $$$$$$. I think a custom fit tour version is around 1800 dollars....

 

 

OK if you INSIST there is a difference in the location of the CoG let me quote a wee bit from Tom Wishons book.

 

....the variation in shot height from a 3-4mm vertical difference of the CG is minimal at best. Very minimal. Like not quite one degree in launch angle hogher (or lower) minimal.
The Search For The Perfect Golf Club page 55.

 

Now to move the vertical CoG for more than 1 degree of launch you need to move the CoG more than 4mm.

 

Richard, to put this one to bed for all the doubters, could you take a side by side photo of the back cavity to show the Inverted Cone (where CG is supposed to be)?

 

 

I can do that.

 

Let me understand however. I am confused again. Are we saying the placement of the emblem, or the metal inverted cone? Either way 3-4 mm is (.003 per mm) say in short 1/8" of movement. That cone has very little mass in it. Material weight in that cone is minimal. Are you saying if the cone is moved say 1/8" then the CG is also moved with it one for one? I am not a club designer but I do have some engineering savy. Something isnt right there. I am sure to move the CG for the head you are going to have to do alot more than tweak that cone a couple of mm to make any knowticable differences. The weight of that cone appears to have barely any substance to it. A piece of lead tape would give 5 times the mass. JMHGO

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I think the real difference is the center of gravity being a tad bit higher in tour issue irons to reduce spin and lower trajectory a bit which pros need anyway. And more consistent weight club to club as well. That's about it.

 

Pretty much 99% of us won't know the difference anyway so stick with retail version to save $$$$$$. I think a custom fit tour version is around 1800 dollars....

 

 

OK if you INSIST there is a difference in the location of the CoG let me quote a wee bit from Tom Wishons book.

 

....the variation in shot height from a 3-4mm vertical difference of the CG is minimal at best. Very minimal. Like not quite one degree in launch angle hogher (or lower) minimal.
The Search For The Perfect Golf Club page 55.

 

Now to move the vertical CoG for more than 1 degree of launch you need to move the CoG more than 4mm.

 

Richard, to put this one to bed for all the doubters, could you take a side by side photo of the back cavity to show the Inverted Cone (where CG is supposed to be)?

 

 

I can do that.

 

Let me understand however. I am confused again. Are we saying the placement of the emblem, or the metal inverted cone? Either way 3-4 mm is (.003 per mm) say in short 1/8" of movement. That cone has very little mass in it. Material weight in that cone is minimal. Are you saying if the cone is moved say 1/8" then the CG is also moved with it one for one? I am not a club designer but I do have some engineering savy. Something isnt right there. I am sure to move the CG for the head you are going to have to do alot more than tweak that cone a couple of mm to make any knowticable differences. The weight of that cone appears to have barely any substance to it. A piece of lead tape would give 5 times the mass. JMHGO

 

 

Richard,

 

Sorry for the confusion. I'm no engineering expert either. Not only would the Inverted Cone need to be higher but the V shaped R7 Emblem back part of the cavity would also need to be higher to move the vertical CoG.

 

We thinking on the same lines here?

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Richard,

 

Sorry for the confusion. I'm no engineering expert either. Not only would the Inverted Cone need to be higher but the V shaped R7 Emblem back part of the cavity would also need to be higher to move the vertical CoG.

 

We thinking on the same lines here?

 

 

That sounds mre like it. There you can start to move the CG around I would think. I will post some Pics. I can tell yo there is zero difference however. But I will post some Pics

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Richard,

 

Sorry for the confusion. I'm no engineering expert either. Not only would the Inverted Cone need to be higher but the V shaped R7 Emblem back part of the cavity would also need to be higher to move the vertical CoG.

 

We thinking on the same lines here?

 

 

That sounds mre like it. There you can start to move the CG around I would think. I will post some Pics. I can tell yo there is zero difference however. But I will post some Pics

 

 

Thanks Richard ;)

 

All my posts are being monitored before they show up on BSG as a result of this constructive and mature debate. No doubt i'll get banned as soon as you show the pics.

 

First it was the Tour CoG mystery marking (that never existed) and now trying to censure me for stating info from one of the industry leaders in clubhead design.

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Richard,

 

Sorry for the confusion. I'm no engineering expert either. Not only would the Inverted Cone need to be higher but the V shaped R7 Emblem back part of the cavity would also need to be higher to move the vertical CoG.

 

We thinking on the same lines here?

 

 

That sounds mre like it. There you can start to move the CG around I would think. I will post some Pics. I can tell yo there is zero difference however. But I will post some Pics

 

 

Thanks Richard ;)

 

All my posts are being monitored before they show up on BSG as a result of this constructive and mature debate. No doubt i'll get banned as soon as you show the pics.

 

First it was the Tour CoG mystery marking (that never existed) and now trying to censure me for stating info from one of the industry leaders in clubhead design.

 

This is getting out of control. I am telling friends and members to stay clear over paying for tour issued cast TP R7 heads if they think they will visually notice ANYTHING. I find it truely amazing that I spent time tonight taking pictures of the cavities. I could digitize these heads to find ZERO difference. The Pictures below are the 3 iron of a Tour issued (all black ferelles) and a retail 3 iron (silver bands on ferrelle)

 

I have told JHR today and Rick from Texas (both good friends) yesterday that I wouldnt sell them the tour set I have on principle. By retail for high $500.00 and have them fitted. I could have Joe Kwok blueprint the set with any shaft for $800.00 ish total and have a set up better than the tour guys. No offense but Joe is spot on. How many wins this year on the PGA Joe???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In addition to that, did you guy's (and gals) check out the shape of these puppies. WOWOWOWOW!!! How they hide that much cavity i this beautiful design is beyhond me. Look at this shot from address...

 

3 iron...

 

post-1-1163350256.jpg

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Black Gold from True Temper

TITLEIST TSI3 9* - HZRDUS T1100 HANDMADE 6.0 
PING G410 15* - MITZ TENSEI PRO ORANGE 70X
PING G410 17* & 19* - MITZ TENSEI BLUE X & EF BLACK X
SRIXON ZX7's - 4-PW w/SPECIAL, TOUR ISSUE, BLACK KBS TOUR V 125'S
CALLAWAY PM2 54* X & 58* X - ORIGINAL PX Satin 5.5's (HSx1)
ODYSSEY STROKE LAB EXO 7S - CUSTOM

SCOTTY CAMERON 2001 TOUR ISSUE 3x CHOCOLATE NEWPORT BEACH
2017 BRIDGESTONE B330 Tour #1's & TITLEIST PRO V #1'X

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1. I'm doing exactly what easyyy said to do - I bought a set of 'still in the plastic' for $550 from a BSG'er (thanks if you post here too!!)

2. I'm either reshafting with Joey, OR it's only $15 extra per club for PX6.0's and the local ProGolf will trade these in for full value. Seems like a screaming deal to me!

 

Now - if your first shot with an iron was an incredibly high, long 180 carry seven iron to a very uphill green with PX6.0 would you even consider any other setup? I don't even hit a seven iron over 160 and I usually HATE PX shafts but these felt so good. I'm usually an X100 person ;)

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OK, so my new set of irons showed up today. The heads are still in the plastic ;) I'm trading them in and getting a set with PX6.0 tomorrow.

 

Now, should I order the matching A-wedge at 52*, a 54 and 58 satin set to decide if I like the A or 54 more, or just be sensible and go with the 54* that I normally play??? Should I go with matching PX6.0's or 5.5's or ??? in the wedges? I'm thinking of matching 6.0's.

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OK, so my new set of irons showed up today. The heads are still in the plastic ;) I'm trading them in and getting a set with PX6.0 tomorrow.

 

Now, should I order the matching A-wedge at 52*, a 54 and 58 satin set to decide if I like the A or 54 more, or just be sensible and go with the 54* that I normally play??? Should I go with matching PX6.0's or 5.5's or ??? in the wedges? I'm thinking of matching 6.0's.

 

 

Clayton,

 

The A wedge os only 51* and only has 6* of bounce. I went 4-AW and use a 54*SW. The AW is surprisingly good for greenside chipping.

 

Not sure what you're looking for in the wedge shaft set up. If you're looking for something softer cant you softstep the PX6.0? Or are the individual shafts just too hard to get hold of?

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