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My refinishing projects. Scotty Camerons ahoy!


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Pic heavy!
So I've been doing a little side business for some friends/coworkers, refinishing their putters for them (and have started doing other clubs)

A lot of the time is spent sanding my arms off trying to get all the dings and nicks out of all the lines, especially the top line. It's a lot of work but it must be done!

Tell me what you guys think!

First up, a standard Newport
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This was a TeI3 for a buddy of mine, it was in rough shape obviously, but it turned around great! The only bummer is that since it's a gun-blue finish it can rust, and the owner accidentally left a wet headcover on it overnight and ruined the new finish. I have it in my possession again and am going to try a more permanent (albeit different than original) finish.
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A studio design that I did for myself, so I went a little off the wall with it. I can't wait to get the paintfill done as it's really going to set it off! I'll have to post more pics when it's done!
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Lastly, this is a napa that a buddy of mine gave me to bring back to life. The previous owner absolutely ruined it by grinding in a parallel sight line on the back flange and drilled a sight dot on the top! Not to mention the vise marks on the back and face from when he did this unkind deed. I have to do some experimenting with this one to get those lines removed and I'm hoping it works out. Unfortunately, in order to get those marks out of the face I think all of the face milling will have to be smoothed out. The owner also wants low maintenance, so we are skipping the gun blue and doing a gloss black finish instead.

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Sorry about the lack of paintfill pics on the finished clubs, my buddy does that for me and I always seem to forget to take pics! I'm just an hobbyist so I'll hopefully get better as time goes on!

Anyways, I've been having some fun doing this so I hope you guys enjoy the pics.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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Good work! I think I enjoy the refinish product more than the original.

Driver: Callaway Epic Flash 10.5° Project X HZRDUS Smoke Black 6.5 70g 
3wd: Srixon F65 10.5° Aldila Rogue Silver 110 70g 
3h & 4h Srixon Z-U85 20° & 23° Recoil 95 F4
Irons: Titleist 620CB 5-pwTT AMT Tour White S300 
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM8 50° 56° 60° KBS TT AMT Tour White S400, bent to 51° 55° 59°
Putter: Ping Redwood Anser 34" w/Element 29 from Putter Lounge & Carbon Ringo w/Misted Stainless Steel 
Grip: Lamkin UTx
Ball: Srixon Z-Star XV
Bag: Srixon Z Stand
Shoes: 6 adidas 2 Puma (diva golfer)

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[quote name='hebron1427' timestamp='1338300802' post='4993564']
beauty. care to detail your process for the other hobbyists out there?
[/quote]


[quote name='Jtraskal' timestamp='1338303977' post='4993826']
can you give me a little insight into your sanding process?
if you dont want to on here you could PM me

I would appreciate it
[/quote]

Sure thing!

I first sandblast the head which gets rid of 99% of the the current finish and any paint. Those are the "flat" looking pictures where the head doesn't have any shine.

Then depending on the severity and location of the dings I will use a variety of tools ranging from air sanders to old fashioned sandpaper and elbow grease.

Once the dings are gone I will step up in sandpaper fineness until all the sanding marks are removed (depending on the final finish). This could include 150, 400, and 600 grit. I'll do that for any heads I'm re-bluing as scratches can show through that pretty easily.

For ones that I'm coating (like the white 1.5 and the first newport) I don't have to take the sanding AS far as the coating conceals most of that, I'll just get rid of the major dings and nicks so the head is smooth enough.

After the head is refinished then I let my buddy paintfill with the customer's choice of color. :)

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='fore_life' timestamp='1338338587' post='4997402']
Just wondering if for the napa, you could weld over the stupid sight line and then grind the bead flush?
[/quote]

This is option B if option A does not work out. I will find out in a couple days when I have a chance to work on it again.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='fore_life' timestamp='1338338587' post='4997402']
Just wondering if for the napa, you could weld over the stupid sight line and then grind the bead flush?
[/quote]

That's how I would go about it. Of course, you have to be very careful with your heat (coming from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, not restore putters, maybe I'm wrong). Also, when welding something like this you need a finish that will cover it. If you simply apply some type of bluing or black oxide, you'll see the mark that is left over. If you cover it with something like Cerakote, you should be fine (again, said from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, based on my experiences with welding/repairing 1911's).

Stealth2+ 9 Atmos RWB 6x / MyStealth+ 9 Atmos Blue 6x | Stealth2+ 15, Ventus Red 8x
TI P770 2 | P770 3, P7MC 4-5, P7MB 6-9 / Miura 1957 4-9, $-Taper 125
TI MG3 46, 50, 54, $-Taper 125 | TI MG3 58 / HT 58, KBS Tour 120 SS
Mann Mini / Cameron CT, MC Smooth | TP5x | My WITB Thread

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[quote name='rebby' timestamp='1338344558' post='4998102']
[quote name='fore_life' timestamp='1338338587' post='4997402']
Just wondering if for the napa, you could weld over the stupid sight line and then grind the bead flush?
[/quote]

That's how I would go about it. Of course, you have to be very careful with your heat (coming from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, not restore putters, maybe I'm wrong). Also, when welding something like this you need a finish that will cover it. If you simply apply some type of bluing or black oxide, you'll see the mark that is left over. If you cover it with something like Cerakote, you should be fine (again, said from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, based on my experiences with welding/repairing 1911's).
[/quote]

Since it will not be blued I don't have to worry about making sure there are no marks, luckily.

If he wanted it re-blued then I would have had no choice but to leave them.

I'm trying one technique first, and if that doesn't work I will have to resort to welding. Hopefully my first idea works instead.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='tommyk90' timestamp='1338354160' post='4998940']
[quote name='rebby' timestamp='1338344558' post='4998102']
[quote name='fore_life' timestamp='1338338587' post='4997402']
Just wondering if for the napa, you could weld over the stupid sight line and then grind the bead flush?
[/quote]

That's how I would go about it. Of course, you have to be very careful with your heat (coming from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, not restore putters, maybe I'm wrong). Also, when welding something like this you need a finish that will cover it. If you simply apply some type of bluing or black oxide, you'll see the mark that is left over. If you cover it with something like Cerakote, you should be fine (again, said from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, based on my experiences with welding/repairing 1911's).
[/quote]

Since it will not be blued I don't have to worry about making sure there are no marks, luckily.

If he wanted it re-blued then I would have had no choice but to leave them.

I'm trying one technique first, and if that doesn't work I will have to resort to welding. Hopefully my first idea works instead.
[/quote]

Be sure to update this thread when you have it finished. Your work thus far has been pretty impressive.

Stealth2+ 9 Atmos RWB 6x / MyStealth+ 9 Atmos Blue 6x | Stealth2+ 15, Ventus Red 8x
TI P770 2 | P770 3, P7MC 4-5, P7MB 6-9 / Miura 1957 4-9, $-Taper 125
TI MG3 46, 50, 54, $-Taper 125 | TI MG3 58 / HT 58, KBS Tour 120 SS
Mann Mini / Cameron CT, MC Smooth | TP5x | My WITB Thread

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[quote name='tommyk90' timestamp='1338354160' post='4998940']
[quote name='rebby' timestamp='1338344558' post='4998102']
[quote name='fore_life' timestamp='1338338587' post='4997402']
Just wondering if for the napa, you could weld over the stupid sight line and then grind the bead flush?
[/quote]

That's how I would go about it. Of course, you have to be very careful with your heat (coming from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, not restore putters, maybe I'm wrong). Also, when welding something like this you need a finish that will cover it. If you simply apply some type of bluing or black oxide, you'll see the mark that is left over. If you cover it with something like Cerakote, you should be fine (again, said from the perspective of somebody who knows how to weld, based on my experiences with welding/repairing 1911's).
[/quote]

Since it will not be blued I don't have to worry about making sure there are no marks, luckily.

If he wanted it re-blued then I would have had no choice but to leave them.

I'm trying one technique first, and if that doesn't work I will have to resort to welding. Hopefully my first idea works instead.
[/quote]

Be sure to update this thread when you have it finished. Your work thus far has been pretty impressive.

Stealth2+ 9 Atmos RWB 6x / MyStealth+ 9 Atmos Blue 6x | Stealth2+ 15, Ventus Red 8x
TI P770 2 | P770 3, P7MC 4-5, P7MB 6-9 / Miura 1957 4-9, $-Taper 125
TI MG3 46, 50, 54, $-Taper 125 | TI MG3 58 / HT 58, KBS Tour 120 SS
Mann Mini / Cameron CT, MC Smooth | TP5x | My WITB Thread

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Wow that looks cool. How would you go about a regular stainless finished putter? I might try to sand out some of my nicks and dings. I can paint fill which is a cinch but I am not sure about how to refinish the stainless. Of course I could just paint it white which is cool, but I may want to keep the stainless look. Thanks

Ping G430 Max 9* Fujikura Ventus Velocore Blue 6X
Ping G425 Max 14.5 Alta CB 65S
Callaway Rogue ST Max 18* Tensei Blue 75S

PXG 0211 XCOR2 5-GW
Titleist SM9  52*F 56*D and 60*D
L.A.B. Link1/Scotty Newport
Srixon Z Star XV

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Thanks for the feedback guys! I LOVE gaming this thing! Gets tons of looks and compliments.

As for the finish, it's actually powdercoating. Much more durable than paint and I can do a ton of different colors.

For stainless you could do the same thing actually, or even do a "clear" coating which would just provide a protective finish.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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Did you use the sandblast process you described earlier with the Oil Can Newport at the very top of the post? I have the exact putter and really want to refinish it, but I can't bring myself to spend $200 to send it to the custom shop. I have a friend that has a sandblaster. Does it have any effect on the milled face? What kind of paint do you use to fill it in? I'm just learning the refinishing techniques, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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[quote name='phibulls' timestamp='1339213684' post='5056296']
Did you use the sandblast process you described earlier with the Oil Can Newport at the very top of the post? I have the exact putter and really want to refinish it, but I can't bring myself to spend $200 to send it to the custom shop. I have a friend that has a sandblaster. Does it have any effect on the milled face? What kind of paint do you use to fill it in? I'm just learning the refinishing techniques, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
[/quote]

Yes, all of the heads were sandblasted.

No, it will not affect the milling as long as you don't get crazy with the sand blaster and use the right blasting material. It will remove only the rust/paint without damaging the metal.

The part that takes the most work and patience is refinishing, depending on what you want to do.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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Very nice work.......appreciate you sharing it.

TITLEIST TSI3 9* - HZRDUS T1100 HANDMADE 6.0 
PING G410 15* - MITZ TENSEI PRO ORANGE 70X
PING G410 17* & 19* - MITZ TENSEI BLUE X & EF BLACK X
SRIXON ZX7's - 4-PW w/SPECIAL, TOUR ISSUE, BLACK KBS TOUR V 125'S
CALLAWAY PM2 54* X & 58* X - ORIGINAL PX Satin 5.5's (HSx1)
ODYSSEY STROKE LAB EXO 7S - CUSTOM

SCOTTY CAMERON 2001 TOUR ISSUE 3x CHOCOLATE NEWPORT BEACH
2017 BRIDGESTONE B330 Tour #1's & TITLEIST PRO V #1'X

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Nice work my friend.

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Thanks for the advice.[quote name='tommyk90' timestamp='1339224657' post='5056652']
[quote name='phibulls' timestamp='1339213684' post='5056296']
Did you use the sandblast process you described earlier with the Oil Can Newport at the very top of the post? I have the exact putter and really want to refinish it, but I can't bring myself to spend $200 to send it to the custom shop. I have a friend that has a sandblaster. Does it have any effect on the milled face? What kind of paint do you use to fill it in? I'm just learning the refinishing techniques, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
[/quote]

Yes, all of the heads were sandblasted.

No, it will not affect the milling as long as you don't get crazy with the sand blaster and use the right blasting material. It will remove only the rust/paint without damaging the metal.

The part that takes the most work and patience is refinishing, depending on what you want to do.
[/quote]

Thanks!

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[quote name='Breaker999' timestamp='1339708483' post='5094504']
Nice! How many grams is lost after the refinish?
The Napa looks fantastic. I like the unfinished look, without the paintfill.
[/quote]

Well the scale I have only goes to tenths of an ounce. I only weighed the teryllium and it was a dead on match weight wise, so I'm guessing any losses are fairly insignificant.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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  • 1 month later...

Alright guys, small update. Got the teryllium refinished with the durable (aka, non-rusting) finish and put back together.

 

These things are a real pain to work on. Give me a non-insert club any day of the week!

 

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As a small side project, my buddy wanted to see if I could refinish a beat up J. Lindberg buckle for him. I think it came out great!

 

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Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='moocherpix' timestamp='1342725056' post='5310166']
Tommy,
What part of the country are you in? How did that powdercoating change the feel on that Cameron?
Thanks,
Nick
[/quote]
I'm from the chicago area.

I've heard no complaints from any of the putters I've done, including my own. :)

My SD 1.5 still has a great "click" to it.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='TheMackDaddy' timestamp='1342760159' post='5313722']
Where'd you buy the gun blue?
[/quote]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/474604/birchwood-casey-perma-blue-cold-blue-kit?cm_vc=1556BrandPopProd

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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[quote name='Wolsey' timestamp='1342952300' post='5325716']
You should get some glass beads to blast it with, less harsh than sand blasting and gives a nice satin finish to the metal.
[/quote]

Read my mind. :)

I'm going to pick up a few different kinds of blasting material to experiment with.

Exotics XCG7 Beta - Speeder 569S
X Hot Pro 15° - Diamana W-Series 70S
Baffler Pro 18° Hybrid
JPX-825 Pro - C-Taper Stiff
Tour Preferred 50°, 54°, 58°
Studio Design 1.5

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