The Wager...

[myspinonit]

[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1422916698' post='10870923']
OK so this is them so far. I still need to hit them with the metal polish and shine them up but they definitely look better than before. I wish this r7 was a lefty, it's got a really nice shape to the head.
[/quote]
Nice! I think there a lot of folks who wished they had kept their R7 ( though i never had one).

[myspinonit]

[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]
I'm not a club builder at all, which you may have seen in comments from this thread. You are braver than me to try.

But with respect, I think you would be best served by Googling on "how to reshaft a golf club", ( or similar wording). Then if you have a specific question after that research, post it in the clubfitting forum. I got some good search results trying that out just now.

You might want to read through, or post a question to, the pinned thread "Swingweight in relation to parts" in the clubaking forum before you start prepping and cutting the shaft.

[Pigems]

[quote name='myspinonit' timestamp='1422920388' post='10871323']
[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]
I'm not a club builder at all, which you may have seen in comments from this thread. You are braver than me to try.

But with respect, I think you would be best served by Googling on "how to reshaft a golf club", ( or similar wording). Then if you have a specific question after that research, post it in the clubfitting forum. I got some good search results trying that out just now.

You might want to read through, or post a question to, the pinned thread "Swingweight in relation to parts" in the clubaking forum before you start prepping and cutting the shaft.
[/quote]

+1 there. There are so many variables depending on the club and shaft your building, Then there is usually 2/3 different ways to get the same results, research is definitely a good start

[PeanutsDaddy]

[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]

lucas,

by no means an expert but I've got a firm grasp of the process.

A few questions:

1) You are certain the shaft is the correct diameter to be paired with the head?
2) Is the shaft tip and/or hosel prepped?
3) Is the shaft cut to length? Grip on, or grip off?
4) What club building tools/supplies do you currently own?

Some basic thoughts:

- You'll need to prepare the tip of the shaft and the hosel to achieve a proper epoxy bond. (need sandpaper, wire brushes, knife).
- You'll need ferrule(s), tip weights potentially (to achieve swing weight), and epoxy.
- You'll need a swing weight scale and a ruler.

I do agree with myspinonit . . . as a visual learner, I found it beneficial to watch videos (Youtube, Hireko Golf), lurk in the club builders forum, and pick the brain of Kadin25. So many places to find quality instruction.

I'll provide whatever assistance I can.

[PeanutsDaddy]

Pigs,

loving the side projects. As I was viewing the images and sifting through the Continental Golf thread I was thinking . . . Instead of purchasing new equipment, why not stick with the same equipment and send it in for a refinish when it looks like turd? That way I can actually develop a relationship and bank some good memories with my clubs.

[Pigems]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422922298' post='10871545']
Pigs,

loving the side projects. As I was viewing the images and sifting through the Continental Golf thread I was thinking . . . Instead of purchasing new equipment, why not stick with the same equipment and send it in for a refinish when it looks like turd? That way I can actually develop a relationship and bank some good memories with my clubs.
[/quote]

Seeing as clubs are basically maxed out now, it's a good plan. You send yours here for refurbs and ill send mine to you for tune ups

[myspinonit]

[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1422923318' post='10871673']
[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422922298' post='10871545']
Pigs,

loving the side projects. As I was viewing the images and sifting through the Continental Golf thread I was thinking . . . Instead of purchasing new equipment, why not stick with the same equipment and send it in for a refinish when it looks like turd? That way I can actually develop a relationship and bank some good memories with my clubs.
[/quote]

Seeing as clubs are basically maxed out now, it's a good plan. You send yours here for refurbs and ill send mine to you for tune ups
[/quote]
Lol

I thought about using Continental Golf when I was in love with the R11s, but not the white head that showed any unfortunate scuff or dirt, though i take good care of my clubs. My Miuras look really good after three seasons, including some sandier soil vacation spots.

I probably don't hit the ball hard enough to wear them out. Seriously.

Just today I ordered some Bionic Performance gloves with the view to be able to hold onto the club better, with lighter grip, with my basal (thumb) arthritis. It's been kept in pretty good control with steelfiber shafts, but I have no grip strength, and either try to hang on too tight probably, or just lose some power going for control. I have strong legs and upper body for a mid 60's guy, but no grip strength. Tearing open a bag of chips can be a no-go.

The ones I ordered aren't the heavy palm padded Bionic ones, that are still USGA allowed for arthritis as I understand it, but the ones that are more flexible, mostly more finger padding, okay with USGA.
I tried some of both before, when I was using mid-size grips. The gloves seemed too big with those, but I've been using CP2 reg since last summer. And like those a lot...standard with less taper. Tried out the one Performance I had on hand on the "condo carpet range" today and it felt very solid, and no death grip.

They are expensive, but when I think of the pther dollars I've blown on "equipment". It also occurred to me recently that my issues with longer fairway clubs, (like my V series Heavenwood now on Craigslist),might be related to just trying to control a longer club with my weak hands and trying to hit through.

Ironic, as in my callow youth I had a wicked topspin in tennis, forehand and backhand, and a perhaps too-handsy golf swing.

I'm realize that I'm posting this personal detail as maybe especially the regs in this thread might have some more insight for me.

[Pigems]

So I was just reading through another thread about a guy wondering about flattening or shortening him irons(titleist cb's at that) and after seeing his lie board I realized my wife's cutting board was a perfect lie board lol. So, this is my PW when I hold it at the end of the grip and swing with my hands in the comfortable place I would prefer to have them. I think they may be a bit upright?? I'd rather flatten then shorten so I can keep as much distance as possible with them. What do you guys think?? I'm going to try it with every club now to see how each one is.

[Gauchograd99]

Looking at all this work has brought me to think of an EVIL project ... if I get the money, time, and desire to try it. I would have to find the right clubs somewhere out there as my old TA1's wouldn't be worth the effort, but it would be interesting to take an older set of irons and put some Steelfiber shafts into them and see what happens. Then again, the money part would require winning the lottery as the wife would leave me otherwise.

[PeanutsDaddy]

Pigs,

How well do you know the staff at your local Golf Town?

If you're anything like me, they know you by name.

I'd bring an iron to the store and ask to borrow a lie board and a piece of lie tape. Indicate that you think you need to flatten the lie angle of the irons, but you want to be sure. If they're worth a lick, they should be able to steer you in the right direction. If it's true that you need to bend the irons be sure to write down your specs (by *) before you leave the store.

The GT website indicates they have a Spring Tune-Up Package for $50 that includes the following services.

• Chart the lie and loft of all irons in set
• Adjust any lofts or lies out of line with
the rest of the set
• Provide grip fitting analysis and
recommendations
• Inspect shafts for damage and corrosion
• Inspect condition of ferrules
• Thorough cleaning

Lie and loft adjustments are $5 a club and lie and loft charting is $10.

[PeanutsDaddy]

myspinonit,

I can vouch for the quality of Continental's work as I've had 5 heads refinished by them over the past two years. My first being an R11s driver as I couldn't tolerate the white paint scheme.

I've had good success with the vibration dampening properties of Lamkin's Ace 3-Gen grip and have also carried Golf Pride's Dual Durometer. They are both relatively inexpensive (especially in comparison to the CP2s).

I've struggled to hit fairway woods consistently over the years, but seem to hit my hybrids well. Recent grip (strengthening) and ball position changes (ball more forward) have led to positive results over the past month.

[Pigems]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422926839' post='10872103']
Pigs,

How well do you know the staff at your local Golf Town?

If you're anything like me, they know you by name.

I'd bring an iron to the store and ask to borrow a lie board and a piece of lie tape. Indicate that you think you need to flatten the lie angle of the irons, but you want to be sure. If they're worth a lick, they should be able to steer you in the right direction. If it's true that you need to bend the irons be sure to write down your specs (by *) before you leave the store.

The GT website indicates they have a Spring Tune-Up Package for $50 that includes the following services.

• Chart the lie and loft of all irons in set
• Adjust any lofts or lies out of line with
the rest of the set
• Provide grip fitting analysis and
recommendations
• Inspect shafts for damage and corrosion
• Inspect condition of ferrules
• Thorough cleaning

Lie and loft adjustments are $5 a club and lie and loft charting is $10.
[/quote]

Very good idea, I know a few of them pretty we at this point so I think I'll try that. I tried talking to the guy at Golf Central today when I there at lunch but he didn't seem too into the idea. I'll try golftown early on a Sunday or Saturday morning when it's not busy. I was thinking about the tune up package as well, I'm curious to se if my irons have shifted over a seasons use.

[myspinonit]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422927128' post='10872151']
myspinonit,

I can vouch for the quality of Continental's work as I've had 5 heads refinished by them over the past two years. My first being an R11s driver as I couldn't tolerate the white paint scheme.

I've had good success with the vibration dampening properties of Lamkin's Ace 3-Gen grip and have also carried Golf Pride's Dual Durometer. They are both relatively inexpensive (especially in comparison to the CP2s).

I've struggled to hit fairway woods consistently over the years, but seem to hit my hybrids well. Recent grip (strengthening) and ball position changes (ball more forward) have led to positive results over the past month.
[/quote]
Thanks, PD. Good news on Continental.
I'll keep the other grips in mind.
Serendipity -or something. Experimenting with ball position got me thinking back to basics, the grip. I probably have been having my fw a tad too far back to make contact. And when moved it a touch forward, I found myself trying to "time"the swing. I was getting too shallow in backswing accordingly also, a bad habit for the rest of my clubs.
Thanks.

[PeanutsDaddy]

[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1422928429' post='10872319']
[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422926839' post='10872103']
Pigs,

How well do you know the staff at your local Golf Town?

If you're anything like me, they know you by name.

I'd bring an iron to the store and ask to borrow a lie board and a piece of lie tape. Indicate that you think you need to flatten the lie angle of the irons, but you want to be sure. If they're worth a lick, they should be able to steer you in the right direction. If it's true that you need to bend the irons be sure to write down your specs (by *) before you leave the store.

The GT website indicates they have a Spring Tune-Up Package for $50 that includes the following services.

• Chart the lie and loft of all irons in set
• Adjust any lofts or lies out of line with
the rest of the set
• Provide grip fitting analysis and
recommendations
• Inspect shafts for damage and corrosion
• Inspect condition of ferrules
• Thorough cleaning

Lie and loft adjustments are $5 a club and lie and loft charting is $10.
[/quote]

Very good idea, I know a few of them pretty we at this point so I think I'll try that. I tried talking to the guy at Golf Central today when I there at lunch but he didn't seem too into the idea. I'll try golftown early on a Sunday or Saturday morning when it's not busy. I was thinking about the tune up package as well, I'm curious to se if my irons have shifted over a seasons use.
[/quote]

When the outdoor season begins I will have all lofts and lies checked and adjusted as required. 50 indoor sessions is bound to throw things 'out of whack'.

$50 is a small price to pay for the confidence that comes from properly fit equipment.

[Pigems]

Heck yeah!

[LittlePoison1980]

Since we mentioned Kadin25, who has an excellent reputation, why don't we suggest our friend send him a private message? Unless he gets bombarded with 100s of pm's per day, I doubt he'll mind making a recommendation of his favorite dvds/videos for the beginning club builder...

I just might do that myself.

[clubtwirlz]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422922086' post='10871529']
[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]

lucas,

by no means an expert but I've got a firm grasp of the process.

A few questions:

1) You are certain the shaft is the correct diameter to be paired with the head?
2) Is the shaft tip and/or hosel prepped?
3) Is the shaft cut to length? Grip on, or grip off?
4) What club building tools/supplies do you currently own?

Some basic thoughts:

- You'll need to prepare the tip of the shaft and the hosel to achieve a proper epoxy bond. (need sandpaper, wire brushes, knife).
- You'll need ferrule(s), tip weights potentially (to achieve swing weight), and epoxy.
- You'll need a swing weight scale and a ruler.

I do agree with myspinonit . . . as a visual learner, I found it beneficial to watch videos (Youtube, Hireko Golf), lurk in the club builders forum, and pick the brain of Kadin25. So many places to find quality instruction.

I'll provide whatever assistance I can.
[/quote]1. Yes I am certain. 2.Yes, they are prepped. 3.Shaft may be cut, not sure yet and grip on.4. Nothing, except maybe some basic epoxy. Let me know what to use. Any other information is great! Thanks!

[Gauchograd99]

The final assessment after about 2-3 months of play will be interesting to hear. The difference between my Apex MB's and the Mizzy MP-4's is about 1/4 inch which makes things a little interesting at times. Like, when you grab my PW and it is shorter than the 50 degree MP-T4 gap wedge. However, when I get back into the MP-4's (I swear I will play them again sometime soon!) it will be interesting to see what happens other than possibly a little longer flight and less of a tendency to pull shorter irons... and more tendency to hook the 3 iron.

[LittlePoison1980]

The heads I ordered are somewhere in the postal system... I missed the usps parcel guy. I'll stop by the local post office and hopefully pick 'em up tomorrow.

[LittlePoison1980]

So how are the rest of the minions doing today?

[Pigems]

Trying to figure out how to leave work early or sneak out so I can drop my irons off at golf central to have my lies flattened by 2* to test out. They're forged so I can always go back if I don't like it. But they close at 4 and I get off at 4 so it will be tricky to get there with out work knowing

[LittlePoison1980]

[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1423153364' post='10890239']
Trying to figure out how to leave work early or sneak out so I can drop my irons off at golf central to have my lies flattened by 2* to test out. They're forged so I can always go back if I don't like it. But they close at 4 and I get off at 4 so it will be tricky to get there with out work knowing
[/quote]

"Boss, I, uh, have to leave early to get some minor surgery done."

I don't think it'll work unless you wrap up a body part and refuse to use it for a few weeks.

[Pigems]

My wife and I work together and she is the GM of the company. So it makes getting out of work pretty tricky some days lol

[LittlePoison1980]

[quote name='Pigems' timestamp='1423154310' post='10890353']
My wife and I work together and she is the GM of the company. So it makes getting out of work pretty tricky some days lol
[/quote]

Do you carpool?

[Pigems]

That we do, we only have the one vehicle right now.

[LittlePoison1980]

Well, I'm out of ideas, lol.

[PeanutsDaddy]

[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1423019506' post='10880729']
[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422922086' post='10871529']
[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]

lucas,

by no means an expert but I've got a firm grasp of the process.

A few questions:

1) You are certain the shaft is the correct diameter to be paired with the head?
2) Is the shaft tip and/or hosel prepped?
3) Is the shaft cut to length? Grip on, or grip off?
4) What club building tools/supplies do you currently own?

Some basic thoughts:

- You'll need to prepare the tip of the shaft and the hosel to achieve a proper epoxy bond. (need sandpaper, wire brushes, knife).
- You'll need ferrule(s), tip weights potentially (to achieve swing weight), and epoxy.
- You'll need a swing weight scale and a ruler.

I do agree with myspinonit . . . as a visual learner, I found it beneficial to watch videos (Youtube, Hireko Golf), lurk in the club builders forum, and pick the brain of Kadin25. So many places to find quality instruction.

I'll provide whatever assistance I can.
[/quote]1. Yes I am certain. 2.Yes, they are prepped. 3.Shaft may be cut, not sure yet and grip on.4. Nothing, except maybe some basic epoxy. Let me know what to use. Any other information is great! Thanks!
[/quote]

lucas,

Here is a post that I made earlier in the thread which lists the tools/supplies that I've purchased this year to stock my now powerless workshop.

[i]I do not own a loft/lie machine, frequency analyzer, grinding station, putter bending machine, or many of the 'extras' that you can purchase. Here's a list of the items that I have in my 'shop' with the approximate prices that I paid (as per a search of the GolfWorks catalogue). There are higher end options available but I've gone the inexpensive route given that this is a hobby and not a profession. If I can't do something (eg. loft/lie bending) I take a trip to a local club builder.

Digital scale ($60)
[b]Swing weight scale ($100)[/b]
Belt sander ($85)
Chop saw ($60)
Shaft puller ($160)
Vice ($50)
Heat gun ($40)
Torch ($40)
[b]Hosel cleaning [color="#ff0000"][background=rgb(255, 255, 0)]tools[/background][/color] ($20)[/b]
[b]Drill ($60)[/b]
Rotary tool + kit ($100)
Caliper set ($30)
Gauges (grip, shaft ID, ($16)
[b]Club ruler(s) ($60)[/b]
Compressor + attachments (re-gripping) ($120) - tried the standard method with solvents, catch-pans, removal [color="#ff0000"][background=rgb(255, 255, 0)]tools[/background][/color] and will never go back after using air.
[b]Utility knife ($10)[/b]
Accessories ([b]epoxy,[/b] shims, [b]ferrules,[/b] [b]shafting beads[/b], bore plugs, [b]tip weights[/b], lead tape, tungsten powder, [b]drill bits[/b], [b]sanding sticks[/b], counterbalancing weights, head tac) ($200+)[/i]

For the purposes of a your task I've bolded the tools/accessories that I would use from the aforementioned list.

[PeanutsDaddy]

Lucas,

Here's the basic process I use to install a graphite shaft that is already cut to length and prepped (with the grip installed). If you need to ask any other questions feel free.

1) Dry fit everything before even thinking about epoxy. The paint has been removed and the shaft tip has been lightly sanded with fine grit sand paper. Old epoxy has been removed from the shaft tip and hosel with a drill bit (being careful not to damage the graphite). It's important to remove any epoxy trapped inside the shaft as air must escape from the butt end when you install the shaft, otherwise the shaft will separate from the head. You can also end up with a rattle inside the shaft if remnants are left. I'd personally remove the grip after you figure out the correct swing weight. I prepare the hosel with a wire brush, sanding sticks, and finally clean remnants with a cotton swab (sometimes soaked in acetone or mineral spirits).

2) Place the club on my swing weight scale to determine whether tip weights will be required. I have a grip that I've cut down one side (3 wraps of tape around the outside) that I use to find the correct swing weight. It's a lot easier to remove a cut grip than one that has to be blown on and off.

3) Install the ferrule (they can be fickle - I've sanded them inside, soaked them in hot water, and used a ferrule installer to seat them properly if they are too tight).

4) Dispense 2 part epoxy with a gun on a piece of cardboard, plastic, metal surface (usually whatever I have) and stir thoroughly with an epoxy spatula (you can use a screwdriver). I use maximum strength high impact epoxy (I like the fact that I have more time to work before the epoxy cures, and don't mind the longer drying time). If during the dry fit the shaft is moving too much back and forth I'll add shafting beads to the epoxy.

5) Apply a dollop of epoxy to the inside of the hosel. I use my epoxy mixing spatula to coat the walls of the hosel. I then evenly coat the shaft tip (with the tip weight installed If I've used one). When I first began building I used far too much epoxy (evidenced by the fact that so much excess would spew out the hosel as I inserted the shaft. I'm learning that a little epoxy can go a long way). As I install the shaft I rotate the shaft 360*, usually twice. I ensure that the shaft label is in the desired position (label up or down).

6) Remove any excess epoxy from the ferrule and the hosel (If it dries, it's a pain to remove). I use epoxy-gon (a Golfworks product).

7) Place the club against a wall in the playing position (I have a spot near a heat register that speeds drying time). I also leave the unused epoxy next to the club on the floor so that I can see when the epoxy has cured.

8) Turn the ferrule (I used a shoe-shine method. Ensure that you tape off the hosel and shaft for protection). I finish with strips of cotton soaked in acetone (quick turns). Buff to shine with car polish.

9) Add tape and your grip of choice (label up or down depending on preference. I've moved to a compressor after a year of grip tape, solvent, and removal tools.

Enjoy the journey. Look forward to some finished pictures and reflections.

[LittlePoison1980]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1423182507' post='10894399']
[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1423019506' post='10880729']
[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1422922086' post='10871529']
[quote name='lucascole23' timestamp='1422916974' post='10870957']
Hey guys, I know you know a lot about club building so I was wondering how I should go about shafting my 4 wood head. It is a g15 4 wood head and the shaft is a mitsubushi rayon javln fx m7. I know that these fit together but was just wanting some information on how to shaft it. What do I need to do as far as prepping the shaft and head for it? What materials do I need? Thank you guys for everything.
[/quote]

lucas,

by no means an expert but I've got a firm grasp of the process.

A few questions:

1) You are certain the shaft is the correct diameter to be paired with the head?
2) Is the shaft tip and/or hosel prepped?
3) Is the shaft cut to length? Grip on, or grip off?
4) What club building tools/supplies do you currently own?

Some basic thoughts:

- You'll need to prepare the tip of the shaft and the hosel to achieve a proper epoxy bond. (need sandpaper, wire brushes, knife).
- You'll need ferrule(s), tip weights potentially (to achieve swing weight), and epoxy.
- You'll need a swing weight scale and a ruler.

I do agree with myspinonit . . . as a visual learner, I found it beneficial to watch videos (Youtube, Hireko Golf), lurk in the club builders forum, and pick the brain of Kadin25. So many places to find quality instruction.

I'll provide whatever assistance I can.
[/quote]1. Yes I am certain. 2.Yes, they are prepped. 3.Shaft may be cut, not sure yet and grip on.4. Nothing, except maybe some basic epoxy. Let me know what to use. Any other information is great! Thanks!
[/quote]

lucas,

Here is a post that I made earlier in the thread which lists the tools/supplies that I've purchased this year to stock my now powerless workshop.

[i]I do not own a loft/lie machine, frequency analyzer, grinding station, putter bending machine, or many of the 'extras' that you can purchase. Here's a list of the items that I have in my 'shop' with the approximate prices that I paid (as per a search of the GolfWorks catalogue). There are higher end options available but I've gone the inexpensive route given that this is a hobby and not a profession. If I can't do something (eg. loft/lie bending) I take a trip to a local club builder.

Digital scale ($60)
[b]Swing weight scale ($100)[/b]
Belt sander ($85)
Chop saw ($60)
Shaft puller ($160)
Vice ($50)
Heat gun ($40)
Torch ($40)
[b]Hosel cleaning [color=#ff0000][background=rgb(255, 255, 0)]tools[/background][/color] ($20)[/b]
[b]Drill ($60)[/b]
Rotary tool + kit ($100)
Caliper set ($30)
Gauges (grip, shaft ID, ($16)
[b]Club ruler(s) ($60)[/b]
Compressor + attachments (re-gripping) ($120) - tried the standard method with solvents, catch-pans, removal [color=#ff0000][background=rgb(255, 255, 0)]tools[/background][/color] and will never go back after using air.
[b]Utility knife ($10)[/b]
Accessories ([b]epoxy,[/b] shims, [b]ferrules,[/b] [b]shafting beads[/b], bore plugs, [b]tip weights[/b], lead tape, tungsten powder, [b]drill bits[/b], [b]sanding sticks[/b], counterbalancing weights, head tac) ($200+)[/i]

For the purposes of a your task I've bolded the tools/accessories that I would use from the aforementioned list.
[/quote]

This is a very handy list... thank you for posting this PD!

[LittlePoison1980]

[quote name='PeanutsDaddy' timestamp='1423184856' post='10894751']
Lucas,

Here's the basic process I use to install a graphite shaft that is already cut to length and prepped (with the grip installed). If you need to ask any other questions feel free.

1) Dry fit everything before even thinking about epoxy. The paint has been removed and the shaft tip has been lightly sanded with fine grit sand paper. Old epoxy has been removed from the shaft tip and hosel with a drill bit (being careful not to damage the graphite). It's important to remove any epoxy trapped inside the shaft as air must escape from the butt end when you install the shaft, otherwise the shaft will separate from the head. You can also end up with a rattle inside the shaft if remnants are left. I'd personally remove the grip after you figure out the correct swing weight. I prepare the hosel with a wire brush, sanding sticks, and finally clean remnants with a cotton swab (sometimes soaked in acetone or mineral spirits).

2) Place the club on my swing weight scale to determine whether tip weights will be required. I have a grip that I've cut down one side (3 wraps of tape around the outside) that I use to find the correct swing weight. It's a lot easier to remove a cut grip than one that has to be blown on and off.

3) Install the ferrule (they can be fickle - I've sanded them inside, soaked them in hot water, and used a ferrule installer to seat them properly if they are too tight).

4) Dispense 2 part epoxy with a gun on a piece of cardboard, plastic, metal surface (usually whatever I have) and stir thoroughly with an epoxy spatula (you can use a screwdriver). I use maximum strength high impact epoxy (I like the fact that I have more time to work before the epoxy cures, and don't mind the longer drying time). If during the dry fit the shaft is moving too much back and forth I'll add shafting beads to the epoxy.

5) Apply a dollop of epoxy to the inside of the hosel. I use my epoxy mixing spatula to coat the walls of the hosel. I then evenly coat the shaft tip (with the tip weight installed If I've used one). When I first began building I used far too much epoxy (evidenced by the fact that so much excess would spew out the hosel as I inserted the shaft. I'm learning that a little epoxy can go a long way). As I install the shaft I rotate the shaft 360*, usually twice. I ensure that the shaft label is in the desired position (label up or down).

6) Remove any excess epoxy from the ferrule and the hosel (If it dries, it's a pain to remove). I use epoxy-gon (a Golfworks product).

7) Place the club against a wall in the playing position (I have a spot near a heat register that speeds drying time). I also leave the unused epoxy next to the club on the floor so that I can see when the epoxy has cured.

8) Turn the ferrule (I used a shoe-shine method. Ensure that you tape off the hosel and shaft for protection). I finish with strips of cotton soaked in acetone (quick turns). Buff to shine with car polish.

9) Add tape and your grip of choice (label up or down depending on preference. I've moved to a compressor after a year of grip tape, solvent, and removal tools.

Enjoy the journey. Look forward to some finished pictures and reflections.
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