Top Flite iron identification

[Jgb333]

Recently aquired and in near mint condition...

Matching serial numbers all the way through...

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe these are the 1954 model

 

Can anyone here inform me as to the quality of these irons when they were released?

Were they a pro shop line or dept store?

 

Any other insights?

 

Is there anything I need to do before I play them?

 

Thanks

[Fellaheen51]

Wow, beauties JG. Clean, simple design. Classy. And look at those ferrules!! Would love to find some of those those to install on a set of irons. I'd say if you can live with the grips, keep the clubs original. Maybe give the grips a good cleaning. They don't appear dry rotted, at least the one shown in the pic.

 

Of no assistance in a answering whether they're pro line or dept. store. By the looks of them, wouldn't make one iota of difference to me. Very cool clubs.

[Jgb333]

Thanks... I was pretty lucky

I had to buy them right away without any time to do research

I went on beauty alone

[Shallowface]

Definitely top of the line, and one of the very best irons of its day.

 

Several years ago I got to visit the Jack Nicklaus Museum in Columbus, Ohio, and they had Jack's very first set of irons on display. I was stunned to see they were a set of Spalding Top Flites very much like what you have there.

 

We all know about his long association with MacGregor, and it started very early. But the Top Flites were first.

 

Incredible how so many of the stainless steel irons of that time are still beautiful and in excellent condition so many years later. Products were made to last back then, when today's economy virtually depends on lack of durability and (whether real or perceived) obsolescence.

[Jgb333]

Check that....actually 1953

[tlhorsh]

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

[rex235]

Jgb-

 

These Stainless Steel irons were done so far back in Spaldings past, they actually made Left handed iron models....

 

Exceptional Stainless Steel irons from the 1950s...

[russad]

as above, a very nice pick-up, and ditto on those ferrules, they look in great condition.

[Jgb333]

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

 

Thanks,

I just did...these appear to be the 1950-52 models

Now I need to figure out what to do after the 9 iron...I'll need maybe two wedges ?

I really like the Wilson offerings from the 50's in wedges but I'm so impressed with the stainless steel I may want to stay with that material.

[oldschoolrocker]

Great pickup. Would certainly love to hear how they perform.

[tlhorsh]

JB. This is one of the irons I picked up a few weeks back. From what I've found out I'm pretty sure mine are 50-51. I would say yours are a very close cousin. I love those ferrules. I wonder if that was a custom upgrade

 

Toby.

.

[Jgb333]

The grips are in good shape considering their age but I'm not convinced they will hold up under pressure. I'd rather not remove them b/c these irons are a complete package ... Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to either recondition them or use some sort of removable solution like tennis grip tape?

[Jgb333]

JB. This is one of the irons I picked up a few weeks back. From what I've found out I'm pretty sure mine are 50-51. I would say yours are a very close cousin. I love those ferrules. I wonder if that was a custom upgrade

 

Toby.

.

 

Those are great...they look like the 51-52 model (with the "stainless" on the toe)

Do you plan to play them at all or just whack them around the range occasionally?

 

Looks like you have caught the same classic collecting bug I've got

[tlhorsh]

I think I'm going to take them out from time to time. I only got a partial set lowest I have is a 7.

[oldschoolrocker]

I have the 8 and 9 if you are looking to complete your set.

[BIG STU]

Definetely 53 or 54 Those irons were the holy grail in my area among the better players when I was a real young buck. In fact you will see some made in the 60s by the custom department with the same shaped forging with different stampings.

[Shallowface]

These were issued in 1976 as part of Spalding's 100th Anniversary. A cast version of the 1953 Top Flite irons.

 

 

 

I'm proud to have a very nice set of these (woods and irons) in my collection.

[Blade Junkie]

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

 

Thanks,

I just did...these appear to be the 1950-52 models

Now I need to figure out what to do after the 9 iron...I'll need maybe two wedges ?

 

Pretty sure there would have been a 10-iron or "Wedge", and probably a Sand Club to round off that set.

 

Similar on eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4IAAOxyeZNTQHwD

 

http://www.ebay.com/...kAAAOSwv0tVQmO0

 

http://www.ebay.com/...wcAAOSwBahVVP-L

 

http://www.ebay.com/...1AAAOSwcu5UMeD3

 

 

Look out for one where the stamps and ferrule match up to what you have. I was able to match up a Wedge to a set of 1953 Top Flite Synchro-Dyned this way .. sweet wedge to hit as well !

[oldschoolrocker]

Thought I had 2-5, then 8&9, but have 2-6, 8.

[tlhorsh]

Oldschool thanks so much.

[Jgb333]

Definetely 53 or 54 Those irons were the holy grail in my area among the better players when I was a real young buck. In fact you will see some made in the 60s by the custom department with the same shaped forging with different stampings.

 

Are you sure on the 53/54?

I'm sure "ironfinder" is not totally comprehensive but my set seems to match the 50/52 model....

 

The 53/54 say "synchro-dyned" on the back while mine say "tournament model"

 

 

 

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

 

Thanks,

I just did...these appear to be the 1950-52 models

Now I need to figure out what to do after the 9 iron...I'll need maybe two wedges ?

 

Pretty sure there would have been a 10-iron or "Wedge", and probably a Sand Club to round off that set.

 

Similar on eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4IAAOxyeZNTQHwD

 

http://www.ebay.com/...kAAAOSwv0tVQmO0

 

http://www.ebay.com/...wcAAOSwBahVVP-L

 

http://www.ebay.com/...1AAAOSwcu5UMeD3

 

 

Look out for one where the stamps and ferrule match up to what you have. I was able to match up a Wedge to a set of 1953 Top Flite Synchro-Dyned this way .. sweet wedge to hit as well !

 

Thanks for the links...I may get lucky, who knows?

[BIG STU]

Definetely 53 or 54 Those irons were the holy grail in my area among the better players when I was a real young buck. In fact you will see some made in the 60s by the custom department with the same shaped forging with different stampings.

 

Are you sure on the 53/54?

I'm sure "ironfinder" is not totally comprehensive but my set seems to match the 50/52 model....

 

The 53/54 say "synchro-dyned" on the back while mine say "tournament model"

 

 

 

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

 

Thanks,

I just did...these appear to be the 1950-52 models

Now I need to figure out what to do after the 9 iron...I'll need maybe two wedges ?

 

Pretty sure there would have been a 10-iron or "Wedge", and probably a Sand Club to round off that set.

 

Similar on eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4IAAOxyeZNTQHwD

 

http://www.ebay.com/...kAAAOSwv0tVQmO0

 

http://www.ebay.com/...wcAAOSwBahVVP-L

 

http://www.ebay.com/...1AAAOSwcu5UMeD3

 

 

Look out for one where the stamps and ferrule match up to what you have. I was able to match up a Wedge to a set of 1953 Top Flite Synchro-Dyned this way .. sweet wedge to hit as well !

 

Thanks for the links...I may get lucky, who knows?

I was going strictly off of memory and I may have gotten it bassackwards

[Wriggles]

These were issued in 1976 as part of Spalding's 100th Anniversary. A cast version of the 1953 Top Flite irons.

 

I'm proud to have a very nice set of these (woods and irons) in my collection.

 

Wow! At $267 for the irons and $120 for the woods, that was serious money back in 1976. I bought my first "full" set in 1975, Wilsons, for $110. With all the haggling, I walked out of the store with the 11 clubs, a $20 bag, a dozen cheap balls and tax, $146.

 

If I can remember correctly, the three woods had a sticker for $49.95, and the irons, $89.95. That day, I wanted a set of Golden Bears, which sold for $99.95. I asked the store owner to order the Golden Bears, but he said he'd deal with me on the Wilsons. He kept insisting the Wilsons were a far better club, especially since I got him to $10 over the Bears.

 

I think my Wilsons were the only lefty set in his store. Don't think he had more than two or three righties. I foolishly sold the Wilsons for $25, with the above bag. Some years later, I saw my bag at the local Goodwill, but no clubs. I'd have bought my old irons back in a minute.

 

PS: Back in the late 1980's, I think, I recall seeing a (new) Spalding Legacy Gold set at a golf store in Youngstown, OH. I can't recall anything about them, just I thought they were beautiful.

[Shallowface]

These were issued in 1976 as part of Spalding's 100th Anniversary. A cast version of the 1953 Top Flite irons.

 

I'm proud to have a very nice set of these (woods and irons) in my collection.

 

Wow! At $267 for the irons and $120 for the woods, that was serious money back in 1976. I bought my first "full" set in 1975, Wilsons, for $110. With all the haggling, I walked out of the store with the 11 clubs, a $20 bag, a dozen cheap balls and tax, $146.

 

If I can remember correctly, the three woods had a sticker for $49.95, and the irons, $89.95. That day, I wanted a set of Golden Bears, which sold for $99.95. I asked the store owner to order the Golden Bears, but he said he'd deal with me on the Wilsons. He kept insisting the Wilsons were a far better club, especially since I got him to $10 over the Bears.

 

I think my Wilsons were the only lefty set in his store. Don't think he had more than two or three righties. I foolishly sold the Wilsons for $25, with the above bag. Some years later, I saw my bag at the local Goodwill, but no clubs. I'd have bought my old irons back in a minute.

 

PS: Back in the late 1980's, I think, I recall seeing a (new) Spalding Legacy Gold set at a golf store in Youngstown, OH. I can't recall anything about them, just I thought they were beautiful.

 

First place I saw the Legacy clubs in person was a JC Penney Outlet store my mom used to frequent. This would have been early in 1978. They used to get various lots of closeout items that weren't necessarily merchandise they carried on a regular basis.

 

For example, my left handed dad bought some Hogan Apex laminated fairway woods (3, 4 and 5) for $9.99 each. When they dropped to $2.99 each, he bought a backup set. They didn't have any right handed ones.

 

They had stacks and stacks of those Legacy sets. You had to buy 4 woods and 9 irons, and the whole set cost $199.99. I was just about to turn 18 and had a good part time job, but every spare dime was going for college that fall. I am sure the store management wondered why the floor was wet in front of those clubs but it was just me drooling over them every time I saw them.

 

It took awhile, but 4 or 5 years ago I ran across a very nice set of these on Ebay and snatched them up. So many of the clubs I have in my collection are clubs I coveted as a younger person and couldn't afford. It's one of the biggest reasons I enjoy playing the older stuff so much. I feel like I'm making up for lost time.

 

The strange thing is, today I can afford to walk into a pro shop and buy a brand new set and there's nothing I want. Whether it's clubs, clothes or shoes, it's apparent I'm not in the target demographic.

[Shallowface]

Definetely 53 or 54 Those irons were the holy grail in my area among the better players when I was a real young buck. In fact you will see some made in the 60s by the custom department with the same shaped forging with different stampings.

 

Are you sure on the 53/54?

I'm sure "ironfinder" is not totally comprehensive but my set seems to match the 50/52 model....

 

The 53/54 say "synchro-dyned" on the back while mine say "tournament model"

 

 

 

JB have you checked out ironfinder.com or clubsofdistinction.com. Both good resources

 

Thanks,

I just did...these appear to be the 1950-52 models

Now I need to figure out what to do after the 9 iron...I'll need maybe two wedges ?

 

Pretty sure there would have been a 10-iron or "Wedge", and probably a Sand Club to round off that set.

 

Similar on eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4IAAOxyeZNTQHwD

 

http://www.ebay.com/...kAAAOSwv0tVQmO0

 

http://www.ebay.com/...wcAAOSwBahVVP-L

 

http://www.ebay.com/...1AAAOSwcu5UMeD3

 

 

Look out for one where the stamps and ferrule match up to what you have. I was able to match up a Wedge to a set of 1953 Top Flite Synchro-Dyned this way .. sweet wedge to hit as well !

 

Thanks for the links...I may get lucky, who knows?

 

1951-52 based on the Golfworks price guide. The 1950 model doesn't have the gold line through the back.

 

The 1953-54 say Synchro Dyned on the back instead of Tournament Model, but it's virtually the same clubhead.

 

The guide mentions the "marbled ferrule" on the 1953 model but says nothing about the ferrules on the 51-52.

[Wriggles]

Like Mr. Shallowface, I can go into any golf store and afford anything. I can truthfully say, I don't want any of that new stuff. I can recall, as a young pup in the 1970's, the club of choice with the management guys at the company I worked were Haig Ultras. Back then, I could have bought a set, but being frugal, I didn't.

 

Imagine the joy I felt when I found a lefty set at a garage sale back around year 2000, priced at $9. Regripped them, and been playing them on a regular basis ever since.

 

Play well!

[Jgb333]

Does anyone know if modern golf equipment is more expensive than classic equipment , say from the 50's-60's?

 

I'm relative terms of course with inflation adjustment etc....

[tlhorsh]

Found a converter online that said 1978 $200 to 2014 $880.

[Wriggles]

Back in 1978, I was making around $20K a year, working at a blue collar job in a steel mill, so according to the above converter, I was making $90K in todays' world. Sounds about right, but today, how many unskilled (or semi skilled as the company called us) make $90K a year? How many college graduates make $90K a year? As a CPA, I never made $90K a year.

 

Today, I'd consider $90K ($40+ per hour) a wonderful working class wage, but look at job ads, factory work today pays from minimum wage to maybe $15 an hour, a far cry from the adjusted $40.

 

Back in 1978, the wage disparity wasn't so great for blue and white collar. Management might make $5-10K more yearly than its work forces.

 

It all works out if a wage earner can keep up with the inflationary scales. If not, the statistics mean nothing.

 

Just a reflection on a cold February morning.

 

PS: Forgot to answer the question. Depending on an individuals economic state, equipment can be more expensive or less expensive today. In the old days, the same situation. But, I'd venture to say the game is infinitely more expensive today for the working class.

[Fellaheen51]

If one's exposure to golf equipment and associated paraphernalia required is based on what is read in Golf Digest, exposed to via T.V. marketing, or as evidenced by some of the discussions in other parts of this website, the necessities to play the game are absurdly expensive. But, as many of us here realize, it does not need to be this way. Most of us could put together a play set of clubs, high quality ones at that for what....$100 to $150 tops. The information needed to do this easier to obtain than ever. Given the time to research and "knowing" how to cut thru the hype. But what % of golfers are going to do this? 10%? Outside of the WRX community. I've had many a discussion with people explaining that they DO NOT need to buy the latest and greatest to play the game. High quality clubs can be acquired and played very inexpensively. This discussion, almost exclusively, falls on deaf ears. Have manufacturers really done that good of job with their marketing spin? Apparently so.

 

As far as the venue cost to play, suppose it depends on one's location and the type of golf "experience" you're after. I'm quite fortunate as there are a plethora of public courses in the area. All levels of pricing and quality. This level of supply has kept costs to play reasonable. I rarely pay more than $30.00 to play a round (with card as most of my buds cart). $20.00 when I walk. Nice public courses that I would have no problem with inviting you ballers to play. Plus Golf Now and Group Golfer discounts are plentiful. Another local course that the Mrs. and I play on Sunday afternoons for what amounts to a $1 per hole. Short, nothing fancy, but on reasonably good shape. Place always has a number of families with kids out on Sundays, hacking it around, seemingly enjoying themselves. Just not a high roller course. Point being, cost to play doesn't necessarily have to be expensive. With that said, I do realize and have experienced other parts of the country where green fees are not nearly as reasonable.

 

If one can differentiate oneself from the need to play the latest and greatest clubs that "x" pro is playing (buying a game?), in a country club environment, golf can still be a relatively inexpensive endeavor.