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Power Play Caiman X2 Tour Blades


Carnivean

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I remember when these came out they looked great, although the color was different. I hesitated because of some bad experiences with quality at Hireko in the past.

Cleveland Classic XL Driver
KE4 5 wood 17* 43”
Maltby MXU 23* 
Maltby Tricept TU 5 Iron
Wilson Pi5 6-PW
Wilson JP 55* SW
Ram Watson Troon Grind 58
Ray Cook M2 Mallet

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I built a set of these (5-P, 52,56,60) a few years ago and gave them to my brother because he was just getting into golf and I didn't need four sets. Very good irons, very soft for stainless. They are based on the Callaway Razr X Musclebacks and play similar as far as I am concerned. The finish on them is starting to wear and there is a little rust developing on the wedges due to them being a "cheaper" quality stainless. More forgiving than advertised but I usually play a softer ball and hit the center more often than not so forgiveness is not much of an issue for me. Only set of component clubs I have ever played so I cannot compare and contrast but I will say I don't keep things around that don't perform, indian vs arrow or not. With that being said I'd put them in my bag tomorrow without hesitation if little brother wasn't so happy with them that he sold his Nike and TaylorMade sets.

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My local clubfitter had a set with True Temper Monaco shafts and orange Lamkin i-Line grips.

 

Insane looking combo but a tough sell since not many will pay top dollar for a component set.

Taylormade SIM Max  – 10.5°
Taylormade M4  – 16.5°
Titleist 818H1 - 22.5°
Titleist AP1 718 – 4-P
Titleist AP1 718 – 48°
Cleveland CBX – 54°
Taylormade EF – 60° 
Ping Vault 2.0 Craz-E H   

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I built a set of these (5-P, 52,56,60) a few years ago and gave them to my brother because he was just getting into golf and I didn't need four sets. Very good irons, very soft for stainless. They are based on the Callaway Razr X Musclebacks and play similar as far as I am concerned. The finish on them is starting to wear and there is a little rust developing on the wedges due to them being a "cheaper" quality stainless. More forgiving than advertised but I usually play a softer ball and hit the center more often than not so forgiveness is not much of an issue for me. Only set of component clubs I have ever played so I cannot compare and contrast but I will say I don't keep things around that don't perform, indian vs arrow or not. With that being said I'd put them in my bag tomorrow without hesitation if little brother wasn't so happy with them that he sold his Nike and TaylorMade sets.

 

How is your Brothers HCP then? I got 36 and can play them, thought they would be to hard for me but since 6i is the longest iron its ok.

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I built a set of these (5-P, 52,56,60) a few years ago and gave them to my brother because he was just getting into golf and I didn't need four sets. Very good irons, very soft for stainless. They are based on the Callaway Razr X Musclebacks and play similar as far as I am concerned. The finish on them is starting to wear and there is a little rust developing on the wedges due to them being a "cheaper" quality stainless. More forgiving than advertised but I usually play a softer ball and hit the center more often than not so forgiveness is not much of an issue for me. Only set of component clubs I have ever played so I cannot compare and contrast but I will say I don't keep things around that don't perform, indian vs arrow or not. With that being said I'd put them in my bag tomorrow without hesitation if little brother wasn't so happy with them that he sold his Nike and TaylorMade sets.

 

How is your Brothers HCP then? I got 36 and can play them, thought they would be to hard for me but since 6i is the longest iron its ok.

 

Handicap should have no bearing on what clubs you use. If it does then you are just feeding into the marketing conundrum. Play what you like and adjust as needed. The ball doesn't have any idea what hit it. Also handicap doesn't always tell the whole story. Mine is higher than I'd like because I am admittedly not a good putter. My brother has a well lets just say "improving" short game. Some guys can it the ball 300 yards but cannot swing an iron or wedge. Don't let anyone tell you that you need a special iron because handicap says so.

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Very correct, handicap is a poor determination of what clubs, ball or what tees to play.

 

I disagree on the tees. If you're shooting 90+ you shouldn't be on the back tees no matter how far you drive it.

Taylormade SIM Max  – 10.5°
Taylormade M4  – 16.5°
Titleist 818H1 - 22.5°
Titleist AP1 718 – 4-P
Titleist AP1 718 – 48°
Cleveland CBX – 54°
Taylormade EF – 60° 
Ping Vault 2.0 Craz-E H   

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Very correct, handicap is a poor determination of what clubs, ball or what tees to play.

 

I'm with you on this one. Whatever works best. I'm sitting at a 6 HCP playing MC irons. One of my playing pals is at 2 HCP with his CB Burner 2.0s from a while back. The other dude I play with is sitting at 11 HCP running Mizuno Blades.

 

Whatever works for you is what you should play.

 

Back to topic, this irons look gnarly.

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I've built sets of these for friends. They still own them and play them. Quality is not an issue in my experience. All stainless will rust. The finish is no different than any other "finish" added to a club, they all wear. Saying they're based on something is like saying Scotty Cameron putters are based on something because they are. These are a Hireko original design. I've never had an issue with any of Hireko's designs and I've had many. If you're a good ball striker, there shouldn't be a problem, there's another reason your HC is a 36, but at that I doubt that ball striking is your strength. Forgiveness is a good thing and there are many options out there with more forgiveness. Just my $.02

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Very correct, handicap is a poor determination of what clubs, ball or what tees to play.

 

I disagree on the tees. If you're shooting 90+ you shouldn't be on the back tees no matter how far you drive it.

 

Depends on the course. If a golfer hits it 280 with reasonable accuracy but can't putt why should they play a course at 6100 yards? If a big hitter hits the ball into the same landing areas that the course design requires why should they move up and park the driver? A friend who is a course head pro tried to get the course owner to let him put up a sign directing players to a tee based on what club they hit from 150. The owner objected because he didn't want to play different tees than his son!

Cleveland Classic XL Driver
KE4 5 wood 17* 43”
Maltby MXU 23* 
Maltby Tricept TU 5 Iron
Wilson Pi5 6-PW
Wilson JP 55* SW
Ram Watson Troon Grind 58
Ray Cook M2 Mallet

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I've built sets of these for friends. They still own them and play them. Quality is not an issue in my experience. All stainless will rust. The finish is no different than any other "finish" added to a club, they all wear. Saying they're based on something is like saying Scotty Cameron putters are based on something because they are. These are a Hireko original design. I've never had an issue with any of Hireko's designs and I've had many. If you're a good ball striker, there shouldn't be a problem, there's another reason your HC is a 36, but at that I doubt that ball striking is your strength. Forgiveness is a good thing and there are many options out there with more forgiveness. Just my $.02

 

The only problem I've had with Hireko clubs were the small rubber and plastic pieces fell off because they were very poorly attached. On this model I just didn't care for the copper color. My Macgregor irons have deeper groves than designed because the plating in the broke off, but I'm not complaining.

 

Cleveland Classic XL Driver
KE4 5 wood 17* 43”
Maltby MXU 23* 
Maltby Tricept TU 5 Iron
Wilson Pi5 6-PW
Wilson JP 55* SW
Ram Watson Troon Grind 58
Ray Cook M2 Mallet

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Share on other sites

Very correct, handicap is a poor determination of what clubs, ball or what tees to play.

 

I disagree on the tees. If you're shooting 90+ you shouldn't be on the back tees no matter how far you drive it.

 

Depends on the course. If a golfer hits it 280 with reasonable accuracy but can't putt why should they play a course at 6100 yards? If a big hitter hits the ball into the same landing areas that the course design requires why should they move up and park the driver? A friend who is a course head pro tried to get the course owner to let him put up a sign directing players to a tee based on what club they hit from 150. The owner objected because he didn't want to play different tees than his son!

 

Well 6100 is not what I was thinking of when I mentioned the back tees. I was thinking more of 6600 and up.

Taylormade SIM Max  – 10.5°
Taylormade M4  – 16.5°
Titleist 818H1 - 22.5°
Titleist AP1 718 – 4-P
Titleist AP1 718 – 48°
Cleveland CBX – 54°
Taylormade EF – 60° 
Ping Vault 2.0 Craz-E H   

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