Shafting W/Epoxy That Isn't Golf Club Specific?

OnFire · July 18, 2007

Wondering if I can just used regular store bought (from a general store or WalMart) epoxy to shaft my clubs versus the $9.00 a bottle stuff from Golfsmith?

Or if there will be a difference? Will my clubs hold up just as good?

Gem · July 18, 2007

I always use Araldite glue as it breaks down at around 65* which is good for graphite shaft pulls.

You can use rapid set and use the club around three hours later.

I have not had any problems with this yet.

Gem

OnFire · July 18, 2007

I always use Araldite glue as it breaks down at around 65* which is good for graphite shaft pulls.
You can use rapid set and use the club around three hours later.
I have not had any problems with this yet.

Gem

Where do you find that kind of epoxy, and is it cheaper than that stuff at golfsmith ($9.00), because that's WAY too much, despite the fact that you can probably do pleanty of clubs with one bottle.

I'm of the assumption that the Golfsmith stuff is ridiculously priced for the simple fact that it says "golfsmith" and that they make you believe it's inferior to other store bought epoxy's.

thewitt · July 18, 2007

Shafting epoxy - regardless of whose name is on the label - is a low temperature breakdown epoxy with high shear strength that stays slightly pliable when cured.

Hardware store epoxies are generally way too brittle when cured, and breakdown at a temperature that's high enough to cause you to damage the head or shaft when trying to remove the head - assuming it does not come flying off with a failure as a result of not a high enough shear strength.

-t

OnFire · July 18, 2007

Shafting epoxy - regardless of whose name is on the label - is a low temperature breakdown epoxy with high shear strength that stays slightly pliable when cured.

Hardware store epoxies are generally way too brittle when cured, and breakdown at a temperature that's high enough to cause you to damage the head or shaft when trying to remove the head - assuming it does not come flying off with a failure as a result of not a high enough shear strength.

-t

So don't use it?

taylormadefan · July 18, 2007

Shafting epoxy - regardless of whose name is on the label - is a low temperature breakdown epoxy with high shear strength that stays slightly pliable when cured.

Hardware store epoxies are generally way too brittle when cured, and breakdown at a temperature that's high enough to cause you to damage the head or shaft when trying to remove the head - assuming it does not come flying off with a failure as a result of not a high enough shear strength.

-t

So don't use it?

I believe that's the general jist of his message. :cheesy:

drscott266 · July 20, 2007

"golf" epoxy is just a more flexible bond than something bought at a hardware store if you arent careful in choosing. WHen it comes down to it, it's worth the increased cost if for nothing more than piece of mind while swinging. I have bought one bottle of Golfsmith epoxy and have yet to run out, and it has been well over a set of clubs built or reshafted so far.

OnFire · July 20, 2007

"golf" epoxy is just a more flexible bond than something bought at a hardware store if you arent careful in choosing. WHen it comes down to it, it's worth the increased cost if for nothing more than piece of mind while swinging. I have bought one bottle of Golfsmith epoxy and have yet to run out, and it has been well over a set of clubs built or reshafted so far.

My bottle from Golfsmith has just barely run out. It did last forever, it seems too. It's just that I don't know how much more I will usea nother bottle if I purchase one. I was just hoping I could get away with the cheaper stuff because it just so happens I have some right now.

jus · July 20, 2007

The Araldite Epoxy mentioned is a little more expensive than your standard Golfsmith products, however there is a reason. There are a number of versions of this product, one of the more popular in the Tour Vans is 2012. It is a fast cure product that allows use very quickly. Other products are the 2021 and 2022. These products are made by Huntsman and you can do an internet search to find out more about them. As has been mentioned flexibility is an important attribute of these products. They also make some slower curing products that are very good.

Gozz · July 20, 2007

I guess I'm in the minority. I use Devcon or 3M Epoxy from Walmart with a 3000 psi metal to metal bond. I've never had a head come loose nor have I ever had a problem getting it to break down under 2 min. of heating with a heat gun. You can find it in the hardware/paint section at Walmart.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=26088280

ebay also has golf epoxy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Slow...VQQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Quic...oQQcmdZViewItem

thewitt · July 20, 2007

Most of the repairs I get that are heads come loose are "hardware store" epoxies.

We service pro shops in all of New England, and this is the most common "repair" we see.

As usual, YMMV.

-t

OnFire · July 20, 2007

I guess I'm in the minority. I use Devcon or 3M Epoxy from Walmart with a 3000 psi metal to metal bond. I've never had a head come loose nor have I ever had a problem getting it to break down under 2 min. of heating with a heat gun. You can find it in the hardware/paint section at Walmart.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=26088280

ebay also has golf epoxy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Slow...VQQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Quic...oQQcmdZViewItem

And you've never really had a problem?

The Golfsmith epoxy, when I try to reheat and take shafts out from clubs, has always came unglued right away. So you're saying that WalMart epoxy needs much more heat applied to loosen? Do you use a torch or a heat gun when heating epoxy? I use a torch.

Gem · July 20, 2007

I have not had any problems with the clubhead coming loose using araldite although I am only doing my own clubs and for some friends clubs (some of which the heads have came loose from the manufacturer.)

This is only my findings.

I was wary at first as I do have a fairly decent swing speed and I was not too sure about what glue to use, but as I said I have had no problems so far.

Gem

Gozz · July 20, 2007

I guess I'm in the minority. I use Devcon or 3M Epoxy from Walmart with a 3000 psi metal to metal bond. I've never had a head come loose nor have I ever had a problem getting it to break down under 2 min. of heating with a heat gun. You can find it in the hardware/paint section at Walmart.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=26088280

ebay also has golf epoxy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Slow...VQQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Quic...oQQcmdZViewItem

And you've never really had a problem?

The Golfsmith epoxy, when I try to reheat and take shafts out from clubs, has always came unglued right away. So you're saying that WalMart epoxy needs much more heat applied to loosen? Do you use a torch or a heat gun when heating epoxy? I use a torch.

When done correctly I have never had a problem. I use a heat gun and they normally come loose in less than a min, 2 min max. With a torch it will be faster. I do not trust myself with a torch. :cheesy: If you do not mix it properly they will come loose with time. I believe that to be the main problem when club heads come loose no matter what kind of 2 part epoxy you use. Often people do not use the correct amount and do not mix it throughly which results in your playing partners running for cover. The other problem I have seen is that someone uses an epoxy that is too week or too strong. I have found that the 3000 psi works good for me. Anything less they will come loose, anything over 3800 & you will have a hard time getting them to break down under heat.

I forgot to add that it has become harder to find a 3000 psi epoxy because the junkies are buying it to sniff it to get high. If I find it at a Walmart I normally buy all they have (normally they only have 2 on hand) because they are always out of it. Also, be prepared to get carded at the register. I am 37 and had to show ID the last time I bought it.

OnFire · July 20, 2007

I guess I'm in the minority. I use Devcon or 3M Epoxy from Walmart with a 3000 psi metal to metal bond. I've never had a head come loose nor have I ever had a problem getting it to break down under 2 min. of heating with a heat gun. You can find it in the hardware/paint section at Walmart.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=26088280

ebay also has golf epoxy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Slow...VQQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Quic...oQQcmdZViewItem

And you've never really had a problem?

The Golfsmith epoxy, when I try to reheat and take shafts out from clubs, has always came unglued right away. So you're saying that WalMart epoxy needs much more heat applied to loosen? Do you use a torch or a heat gun when heating epoxy? I use a torch.

When done correctly I have never had a problem. I use a heat gun and they normally come loose in less than a min, 2 min max. With a torch it will be faster. I do not trust myself with a torch. :cheesy: If you do not mix it properly they will come loose with time. I believe that to be the main problem when club heads come loose no matter what kind of 2 part epoxy you use. Often people do not use the correct amount and do not mix it throughly which results in your playing partners running for cover. The other problem I have seen is that someone uses an epoxy that is too week or too strong. I have found that the 3000 psi works good for me. Anything less they will come loose, anything over 3800 & you will have a hard time getting them to break down under heat.

I forgot to add that it has become harder to find a 3000 psi epoxy because the junkies are buying it to sniff it to get high. If I find it at a Walmart I normally buy all they have (normally they only have 2 on hand) because they are always out of it. Also, be prepared to get carded at the register. I am 37 and had to show ID the last time I bought it.

It is hard to get the seperate parts equal when mixing. I have always noticed that and I have had trouble getting that right at times.

The problem I have with the torch is that it can be very hard to heat a clubhead without damaging the paint, etc. I'm looking into purchasing a heat gun.

Gozz · July 20, 2007

I guess I'm in the minority. I use Devcon or 3M Epoxy from Walmart with a 3000 psi metal to metal bond. I've never had a head come loose nor have I ever had a problem getting it to break down under 2 min. of heating with a heat gun. You can find it in the hardware/paint section at Walmart.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=26088280

ebay also has golf epoxy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Slow...VQQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-Club-Makers-Quic...oQQcmdZViewItem

And you've never really had a problem?

The Golfsmith epoxy, when I try to reheat and take shafts out from clubs, has always came unglued right away. So you're saying that WalMart epoxy needs much more heat applied to loosen? Do you use a torch or a heat gun when heating epoxy? I use a torch.

When done correctly I have never had a problem. I use a heat gun and they normally come loose in less than a min, 2 min max. With a torch it will be faster. I do not trust myself with a torch. :cheesy: If you do not mix it properly they will come loose with time. I believe that to be the main problem when club heads come loose no matter what kind of 2 part epoxy you use. Often people do not use the correct amount and do not mix it throughly which results in your playing partners running for cover. The other problem I have seen is that someone uses an epoxy that is too week or too strong. I have found that the 3000 psi works good for me. Anything less they will come loose, anything over 3800 & you will have a hard time getting them to break down under heat.

I forgot to add that it has become harder to find a 3000 psi epoxy because the junkies are buying it to sniff it to get high. If I find it at a Walmart I normally buy all they have (normally they only have 2 on hand) because they are always out of it. Also, be prepared to get carded at the register. I am 37 and had to show ID the last time I bought it.

It is hard to get the seperate parts equal when mixing. I have always noticed that and I have had trouble getting that right at times.

The problem I have with the torch is that it can be very hard to heat a clubhead without damaging the paint, etc. I'm looking into purchasing a heat gun.

It's not that hard as long as the tip's are clear of debris and you push slow to make sure there are no air pockets in the epoxy. I do not use a torch for the same reason. You can pick up a heat gun fairly cheap anywhere they sell paint or tools. They range anywhere from $20 to $150 depending on what you want. Mine is 2 speed & 1200 watts. I think I paid about $35 from Lowe's. I probably would not go below 1000 watts. You can find them pretty cheap on ebay also.

thewitt · July 20, 2007

The problem with most hardware store epoxy is it's not designed for torsional strength. It has compression strength - which we don't care about in golf clubs - but limited torsional strength.

-t

StL_Dan · December 24, 2016

I have always used G-S or G-W (Maltby) 24 hour cure epoxies with few exceptions (Conap) since 1984. There was a time when a softer epoxy for graphites was introduced and I didn't care for it. I think I read at one time they were both were Forder brand. They have excellent impact and shear strength. I have made almost unbelievable machine repairs using G-S 24 hour cure around my metalworking and woodworking shop and on my dad's farm. If yours is a little old and thick you can warm it up in hot water or VERY carefully microwave it to make it blend easier. I also put my glue in syringes so I can accurately dispense. You can purchase feeding syringes at some farm stores, vets (if they will sell to you) or online. Feeding syringes have an extended end. If you take the metal part out of a yellow wire nut you have a cap. I haven't bought a new supply for quite awhile since I have just about stopped doing repairs and custom clubs, so I can't comment on the newest versions. I use my own designed spring-loaded extractor and a micro torch for removal of graphites and immediately cover with a cold damp cloth. I have a tube set of the "Tour Van" glue and have never used it. I have never use CA glue, but I have repaired a few that have been glued with CA and come apart in the middle of a round. No matter which glue you use, make sure the head is coned AND blended if it doesn't use an insert to eliminate the stress riser and the end of the metal.