Callaway Rogue Fairway Wood Adaptor/Sleeve?

[GolfNok]

Hey all,

 

I've made a fair few adjustments to my clubs over the time, been a long time lurker!

 

Recently bought a used rogue 4 wood, testing it and the head came loose.. Assumed it'd be epoxy so just put it away and once I got home noticed there's a crack at the very end of the shaft (Adila Synergy shaft). It won't let me upload the pics!

 

Does anyone know what shaft adaptor or sleeve fits the rogue fairway Woods? It's none adjustable so just glued?

 

Judging from pics of other shafts etc the crack is the shaft itself just before it tapers to the narrow section (I'd already butt trimmed so tip trim would make it far too short annoyingly) and not some sort of sleeve or adaptor etc unfortunately so I'm looking to buy a new shaft at some point just wanting to know what adaptor or sleeve is needed to marry it to the wood head!

 

Thank you.

[MFBach]

The Rogue and Rogue SZ fairway woods have a fixed, glued, non-adjustable head. You won’t need an adapter at all. They take a .335” tip, so any shaft with that tip diameter can be fit to the head. 

[bvanlieu]

As MFBach stated its fixed hosel.  have reshafted both my rogue and mavrik 4w and they were not what I would call tight fits from the factory but some good epoxy and all is well 🙂 

[me05501]

Guys I'm in the process of reshafting my Rogue 4 wood and trying to use a .335 tip shaft. It definitely seems like there's a lot of extra room, and it also seems like the hosel depth isn't all that generous. Is this normal? It basically looks like the hosel bottoms out on the inside around the same place the color changes on the outside from unfinished to black. Seems awfully shallow. When I test fit a 335 shaft it seems like I could easily end up with the head on crooked. 

 

 

On 5/5/2021 at 7:48 AM, bvanlieu said:

As MFBach stated its fixed hosel.  have reshafted both my rogue and mavrik 4w and they were not what I would call tight fits from the factory but some good epoxy and all is well 🙂 

 

[MFBach]

Some pictures might help, but based on your description, there are a few things to check. 
 

1. is there any debris left in the hosel from the pull? Hard to reach epoxy, hosel plug, graphite, etc?

 

if the hosel is prepped properly the shaft should seat fully in the head and tighten up around the tip. 
 

2. It’s also possible the shaft was over- prepped and therefore has a little too much play. Do you have any calipers to check your tip diameter? 
 

3. As far as the shaft angle goes, you’re more than likely going to need a collared ferrule. (Picture below). It’s going to fit into the recessed offset inside the hosel and help to center the shaft in the club head. 
 

 

Edited May 13, 2021 by MFBach

[MFBach]

Also, if the hosel has been properly prepped and the shaft tip is still bottoming out before it reaches full insertion depth, then it’s possible the shaft hasn’t been prepped enough. It’s a bit of a fine line, which is why I asked about a pair of digital calipers. If it’s something you do regularly, it can save a lot of pain and guesswork. 

Edited May 13, 2021 by MFBach

[me05501]

Okay collared hosels ordered. Should my shaft insertion depth be only like a half inch? That’s where it seems to bottom out. 

[tbone18]

29 minutes ago, me05501 said:

Okay collared hosels ordered. Should my shaft insertion depth be only like a half inch? That’s where it seems to bottom out. 

it should be 1' to 1.5" bore depth. even with the collard ferrule it will still be a little loose.  you may need shafting beads or a small shim.

[me05501]

Thanks for the help.

 

I decided to probe a little deeper with some smaller drill bits marked with tape. I put the tape on each drill bit about 1.25 inches from the tip which matched the hosel depth suggested by measuring the outside of the hosel down to the beginning of the crown of the head. 

 

As I gradually probed with progressively broader bits, I was confident that I was drilling into shaft or epoxy material simply from the smell and the color of the dust. Eventually I had the center of that clog reamed out enough for my larger bit (one that fits somewhat snugly in the hosel) to clean up the edges of it. I reached a point where it was clear I was touching plastic with the bit so I stopped and focused on just cleaning up the walls of the hosel to that depth.

 

A dry fitting on my intended .335 shaft shows an insertion depth of 1.25" so I'm there. 

 

It is interesting to me that larger bits on a good drill wouldn't carve out the impacted epoxy and shaft fibers on their own. Either my large bits are very dull or the probing with smaller bits is essential.

 

All's well that ends well. 

[MFBach]

It should be pretty obvious when you’ve reached the bottom of the hosel. The only plastic that should be there is some kind of hosel plug to keep epoxy from running into the head. Everything else should be bare metal. 
 

If you haven’t already assembled the club, it might be worth running a wire brush or rotary tool through hosel to make sure there isn’t anything left in there. After that, give it a good cleaning with acetone (nail polish remover) and a q-tip, and blow it out with pressurized air if you have it. 
 

Then, rough it up with some sand paper, clean it out again, and assemble your club. 
 

Good work though! FWIW, when I’m removing a broken shaft tip, I usually start with a smaller bit and work my way up as well. It’s just easier than trying to drill it all out at once. They make a tool specifically for that purpose, but I’ve never found the need to buy or use it. 

[me05501]

23 minutes ago, MFBach said:

It should be pretty obvious when you’ve reached the bottom of the hosel. The only plastic that should be there is some kind of hosel plug to keep epoxy from running into the head. Everything else should be bare metal. 
 

If you haven’t already assembled the club, it might be worth running a wire brush or rotary tool through hosel to make sure there isn’t anything left in there. After that, give it a good cleaning with acetone (nail polish remover) and a q-tip, and blow it out with pressurized air if you have it. 
 

Then, rough it up with some sand paper, clean it out again, and assemble your club. 
 

Good work though! FWIW, when I’m removing a broken shaft tip, I usually start with a smaller bit and work my way up as well. It’s just easier than trying to drill it all out at once. They make a tool specifically for that purpose, but I’ve never found the need to buy or use it. 

 

Thanks. It was a bit of a mess in there.

 

It all stared when I got on the launch monitor during a lesson and found that my four wood was flying about the same as my 5/6 iron distance. The pro thought maybe the 6.0 shaft in the club might be too stiff for me but I suspected it was fine.

 

When I went to pull the shaft it came out all chewed up and delaminated. I suspect that the club was mistreated or the shaft was installed less than perfectly before. Thanks ebay! 

[roxald]

Just a follow up to this thread.

my buddy had his head fly off into my Sim screen.

he just had it replaced by the golf course repair guy.

It sheared off at the hosel.

I noticed the shaft was only installed 7/8”.

 When the club guy re-shafted it, he drilled out the hosel but the brass shaft top was left in the head; he didn’t notice and just installed the shaft as far as it would go.

I cleaned out the hosel bottom a a no removed the tip weight.

 When everything was cleaned and prepped, I had 1.25” hosel depth.

THANKs to @me05501 for the info!

Pretty sure this shaft is staying in the head!

 

Rox