Switching iron shafts

[Lumberjack627]

I was thinking about switching my iron shafts. I have done my driver shaft with the tip plenty of times and never had an issue but with irons if I order the standard length of my set 5-gw do I have to check the swing weight? Can it be just and simple as take the head off, clean it up, prep and epoxy the shaft and put the head on?

Thanks for any help in advance 

[Klubster]

The weight and balance pont of the new shaft may affect swingweight.  You can dry fit your components and check on a swingweight scale before gluing up.

Edited April 26 by Klubster

[Lumberjack627]

7 minutes ago, Klubster said:

The weight and balance pont of the new shaft may affect swingweight.  You can dry fit your components and check on a swingweight scale before gluing up.

Thanks I just did not want to have to purchase a scale to do it but I figured it wokls

not be just an easy swap 

[Ri_Redneck]

Which shafts are you going from and going to? Make, model, flex & weight.

 

BT

[Lumberjack627]

56 minutes ago, Ri_Redneck said:

Which shafts are you going from and going to? Make, model, flex & weight.

 

BT

I want to go from modus 120 stiff 

to 

modus 115 stiff 

[Klubster]

You will probably notice no difference at all.  Almost exactly the same weight shafts.

[Lumberjack627]

3 minutes ago, Klubster said:

You will probably notice no difference at all.  Almost exactly the same weight shafts.

Notice no difference as in swing weight or overall? 
They are very different profiles of shafts I thought 

[Klubster]

5 minutes ago, Lumberjack627 said:

Notice no difference as in swing weight or overall? 
They are very different profiles of shafts I thought 

Swingweight should be about if not exactly the same.  That was your initial concern.  Same for total club weight.  I would expect a higher ball flight.

Edited April 26 by Klubster

[Lumberjack627]

8 minutes ago, Klubster said:

Swingweight should be about if not exactly the same.  That was your initial concern.  Same for total club weight.  I would expect a higher ball flight.

Yes that’s the concern. As long as I can order and do myself that’s the most important to me. In case I don’t like the shafts I can swap them back out 

[etodd]

1 hour ago, Klubster said:

Swingweight should be about if not exactly the same.  That was your initial concern.  Same for total club weight.  I would expect a higher ball flight.

Funny enough, Modus 115 weighs more than the Modus 120 and also has a stiffer mid section. Very comparable to a DG 120. Modus 120 has a "loady/noodle" feeling for me and causes me to hit the ball higher even if the tip is more rigid than the 115. I play the 115 currently. Excellent shaft and extremely stable.

 

 

This thread is great too if you want more details about the 115. @Lumberjack627

Edited April 26 by etodd

[Lumberjack627]

38 minutes ago, etodd said:

Funny enough, Modus 115 weighs more than the Modus 120 and also has a stiffer mid section. Very comparable to a DG 120. Modus 120 has a "loady/noodle" feeling for me and causes me to hit the ball higher even if the tip is more rigid than the 115. I play the 115 currently. Excellent shaft and extremely stable.

 

 

This thread is great too if you want more details about the 115. @Lumberjack627

Appreciate that info. That’s what I think I’m feeling and I mean I still am I very high ball hitter and I hit them well. The issue is I think it’s sometimes right and left and not just a consistent flight. Even though that can be me and most likely is I was thinking in changing the shafts and see is that helps. 

[etodd]

1 minute ago, Lumberjack627 said:

Appreciate that info. That’s what I think I’m feeling and I mean I still am I very high ball hitter and I hit them well. The issue is I think it’s sometimes right and left and not just a consistent flight. Even though that can be me and most likely is I was thinking in changing the shafts and see is that helps. 

Yeah, i'm no professional fitter by any means, but more stability in the handle/mid with the same Nippon smoothness might be perfect for you. 115 is awesome if you're wanting to stay in the same weight class but change the feel.

 

I agree that the build may not be that much different, but better to check with a SW scale rather than build them up and if they don't perform, be upset with the results when it could just be a SW problem. Idk. I like the reassurance that everything is the same but maybe i'm just OCD. Good luck with the build! Also, I've seen sets of modus 115 4-PW shafts on eBay being sold by Maple Hill Golf for less than 150 brand new if you're wanting them cheap!

[Lumberjack627]

Really appreciate that going to look on eBay right now. You may have saved me $150 or more because I was going to get them on golf works for about $300

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

I use the link below to calculate swing weight to a degree that is close enough without actual measurement to be generally sufficient. It gives you an idea of where the swing weight will be without actually weighing it. There are inexpensive scales, though. To get the most accurate weight possible, you should weigh without grips. Then you can estimate the weight reduction based on a 50g grip at 1sw point per 5g; so 10 point reduction.

 

FWIW this calculator is pretty reasonable for accuracy. From what I've found elsewhere, PXG's standard SW is D1. I ordered my irons +3 which would have been D4; the calculator concurs. If the balance point differs a little, that would be felt more in the release than as a mechanism of swing weight in my opinion.

 

I weighed each head to confirm all of this. (Naturally, I'm reassembling my irons with new shafts LOL)

 

http://golf.okrasa.eu/language/en/clubs/swingweight-en/sw-plan-en/

Edited April 26 by Mikey_HACKilroy

[Lumberjack627]

8 minutes ago, Mikey_HACKilroy said:

I use the link below to calculate swing weight to a degree that is close enough without actual measurement to be generally sufficient. It gives you an idea of where the swing weight will be without actually weighing it. There are inexpensive scales, though. To get the most accurate weight possible, you should weigh without grips. Then you can estimate the weight reduction based on a 50g grip at 1sw point per 5g; so 10 point reduction.

 

FWIW this calculator is pretty reasonable for accuracy. From what I've found elsewhere, PXG's standard SW is D1. I ordered my irons +3 which would have been D4; the calculator concurs. If the balance point differs a little, that would be felt more in the release than as a mechanism of swing weight in my opinion.

 

I weight each head to confirm all of this. (Naturally, I'm reassembling my irons with new shafts LOL)

 

http://golf.okrasa.eu/language/en/clubs/swingweight-en/sw-plan-en/

Thank you. This is going to help me a lot as I really don’t want to spend the cash on a swing weight scale even a cheap one lol 

[MysteryV]

31 minutes ago, Lumberjack627 said:

Thank you. This is going to help me a lot as I really don’t want to spend the cash on a swing weight scale even a cheap one lol 

 

The planning link above is pretty cool, and one I was unaware of, however there are also other more simple swingweight calculators such as:

 

http://www.leaderboard.com/swingwt.htm

 

Should you just want to dry fit and reduce individual component measurments. 

 

 

[Joselo]

"elite Fit golf" channel in YouTube has a ton of great info that i have found very useful 

[llewol007]

Profile might be different but weight very close. You might not see a dramatic change if any. As far as install, they are steel shafts so removing and installing pretty straight forward. All about prepping the tips and making sure your depth into each hosel is verified. No hidden epoxy. Dry fits are always a must. Good luck 

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

13 hours ago, llewol007 said:

Profile might be different but weight very close. You might not see a dramatic change if any. As far as install, they are steel shafts so removing and installing pretty straight forward. All about prepping the tips and making sure your depth into each hosel is verified. No hidden epoxy. Dry fits are always a must. Good luck 

 

+1

 

Very very important statement there. I used a pick and a heat gun further once I got the club head out. Many manufacturers use little plugs on the bottom that are more rubbery than epoxy. It seems like they put it right in the shaft to restrict epoxy from reaching up into the shaft.

To me, at first it looked like a hosel weight, but the sharp pick stabbed right through it. One should have something like 1-½" to the bottom of the hosel. The picture I posted is of the one from the set I got at harbor freight. Not the sturdiest, but they were cheap LOL. You can get more substantial ones from a hardware store. This one literally looks like it was a few manufacturing steps away from becoming a dart. LOL

 

[Ger21]

21 hours ago, Lumberjack627 said:

Can it be just and simple as take the head off, clean it up, prep and epoxy the shaft and put the head on?

It can be. Depends on how sensitive to swing weight you are. I've been building clubs for 30+ years, and have never owned a swingweight scale.

 I just use a $10 kitchen scale to weigh the heads. Use tip weights to get an even 7g weight progression through the heads. Then just install the shafts. I don't really care what they are on a swingweight scale, as they all fell the same to me.

I've used the leaderboard.com online scale after building, and the swingweights are very consistent, gradually increasing a few points from long to short irons.

[Lumberjack627]

1 hour ago, Mikey_HACKilroy said:

 

+1

 

Very very important statement there. I used a pick and a heat gun further once I got the club head out. Many manufacturers use little plugs on the bottom that are more rubbery than epoxy. It seems like they put it right in the shaft to restrict epoxy from reaching up into the shaft.

To me, at first it looked like a hosel weight, but the sharp pick stabbed right through it. One should have something like 1-½" to the bottom of the hosel. The picture I posted is of the one from the set I got at harbor freight. Not the sturdiest, but they were cheap LOL. You can get more substantial ones from a hardware store. This one literally looks like it was a few manufacturing steps away from becoming a dart. LOL

 

I have something similar to this so it should help. Thanks for the info I would have thought it was epoxy too. 

[Lumberjack627]

57 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

It can be. Depends on how sensitive to swing weight you are. I've been building clubs for 30+ years, and have never owned a swingweight scale.

 I just use a $10 kitchen scale to weigh the heads. Use tip weights to get an even 7g weight progression through the heads. Then just install the shafts. I don't really care what they are on a swingweight scale, as they all fell the same to me.

I've used the leaderboard.com online scale after building, and the swingweights are very consistent, gradually increasing a few points from long to short irons.

Awesome appreciate this. I’m going to use the kitchen scale I have and that online scale and hope to not have any issue.