Reaming question

[Wham49]

I have a reaming question about this Wilson wedge. It has the ring around about 1/3 of the way as I have read about and the answer is to ream I have heard. However how much different is reaming than drilling. I tried drilling the hell out of it and couldn't get through it. Is it me, or is an actual reamer going to make that much of a difference.. ALso, if I get a reamer should I get the .355 taper or regular as that is a choose. Or should I just get a better drill bit and save the $40 plus bucks to ream this one club. Any suggestions about what would be the best cost effective way to clear the hosel would be greatly appreciated. I just grabed a set of FG-51's and this would go great with the set.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 12, 2022 by Wham49

[bcstones]

5 hours ago, Wham49 said:

I have a reaming question about this Wilson wedge. It has the ring around about 1/3 of the way as I have read about and the answer is to ream I have heard. However how much different is reaming than drilling. I tried drilling the hell out of it and couldn't get through it. Is it me, or is an actual reamer going to make that much of a difference.. ALso, if I get a reamer should I get the .355 taper or regular as that is a choose. Or should I just get a better drill bit and save the $40 plus bucks to ream this one club. Any suggestions about what would be the best cost effective way to clear the hosel would be greatly appreciated. I just grabed a set of FG-51's and this would go great with the set.

 

 

 

 

Here's a link here on GolfWRX that address' that question https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/1526578-using-a-reamer-on-355-hosel/

My guess is that reaming seems to be done by hand, while using a high speed drill creates heat that might affect the metal of the hozel....just a guess

 

[Swingingk]

5 hours ago, bcstones said:

Here's a link here on GolfWRX that address' that question https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/1526578-using-a-reamer-on-355-hosel/

My guess is that reaming seems to be done by hand, while using a high speed drill creates heat that might affect the metal of the hozel....just a guess

 

Gee that was a pretty nasty thread about hosel reaming!  It's amazing how opinionated and out of control some of the conversations get on this site...

 

If your seeing a ring or step down in the hosel bore I'd guess it's actually a broken off piece of shaft in there.  That'd explain why it's so hard to drill out too as steel shafts are hardened.  I don't think there should be any ring or shoulder in there.

 

It IS possible to open up a hosel with just a drill bit but it takes a gentle touch and isn't easy as the bit tends to grab and get jammed in there.  A reamer is much easier and will do a nicer job.  In my opinion of course.

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

I used a cheap Chinese made self centering reamer from that auction site. I hand reamed a set of Wilson Staff FG17 s in a short time. Engine oil seemed to be a suitable lubricant along with regular withdrawal of the reamer and cleaning out.

It was that easy.

New shafts installed in the same morning.

[BIG STU]

1 hour ago, The Aspidistra in the Hall said:

I used a cheap Chinese made self centering reamer from that auction site. I hand reamed a set of Wilson Staff FG17 s in a short time. Engine oil seemed to be a suitable lubricant along with regular withdrawal of the reamer and cleaning out.

It was that easy.

New shafts installed in the same morning.

Yep the way to do it plenty of cooling oil. As it is said in mechanics and machinists worlds "Keep your Tool Cool". Cutting oil designed just for that does best but I have always used Motor oil or whatever lube I have laying around

[Wham49]

5 hours ago, The Aspidistra in the Hall said:

I used a cheap Chinese made self centering reamer from that auction site. I hand reamed a set of Wilson Staff FG17 s in a short time. Engine oil seemed to be a suitable lubricant along with regular withdrawal of the reamer and cleaning out.

It was that easy.

New shafts installed in the same morning.

so you found one on ebay, i went to the hardware store yesterday and the "reamers" they tried to show me were lke rammers not what I was looking for. I will look today to find one.

 

did you get a .355 reamer? cause I cant find anything that has  a close number for it. either millimeters or 1/8, 1/4,/1/2

 

I figured it out 9mm. thanks for the help.

Edited October 13, 2022 by Wham49

[Wham49]

12 hours ago, Swingingk said:

Gee that was a pretty nasty thread about hosel reaming!  It's amazing how opinionated and out of control some of the conversations get on this site...

 

If your seeing a ring or step down in the hosel bore I'd guess it's actually a broken off piece of shaft in there.  That'd explain why it's so hard to drill out too as steel shafts are hardened.  I don't think there should be any ring or shoulder in there.

 

It IS possible to open up a hosel with just a drill bit but it takes a gentle touch and isn't easy as the bit tends to grab and get jammed in there.  A reamer is much easier and will do a nicer job.  In my opinion of course.

def not a shaft, there are the pressure fitting shafts not sure the real name but the jamm the hellout tof the shaft to get it in there

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

1 hour ago, Wham49 said:

so you found one on ebay, i went to the hardware store yesterday and the "reamers" they tried to show me were lke rammers not what I was looking for. I will look today to find one.

 

did you get a .355 reamer? cause I cant find anything that has  a close number for it. either millimeters or 1/8, 1/4,/1/2

 

I figured it out 9mm. thanks for the help.

 

1 hour ago, Wham49 said:

so you found one on ebay, i went to the hardware store yesterday and the "reamers" they tried to show me were lke rammers not what I was looking for. I will look today to find one.

 

did you get a .355 reamer? cause I cant find anything that has  a close number for it. either millimeters or 1/8, 1/4,/1/2

 

I figured it out 9mm. thanks for the help.

Dorladream2011 is the seller. They have 9mm or 9.1mm in stock. It's about £15 sterling today.

[Wham49]

15 minutes ago, The Aspidistra in the Hall said:

 

Dorladream2011 is the seller. They have 9mm or 9.1mm in stock. It's about £15 sterling today.

I just looked and it wont send to america, so cant even look at what they have, thanks though I think I found one on amazon, I have to use a wrench but it is something

Edited October 13, 2022 by Wham49

[BIG STU]

3 hours ago, Wham49 said:

I just looked and it wont send to america, so cant even look at what they have, thanks though I think I found one on amazon, I have to use a wrench but it is something

Maltby Golfworks sells the proper reamers in the USA. I have 2 I have used for years. The key for longevity is to go slow and keep the reamer oiled up. Also clean it good after use and keep oiled up. I store mine wrapped in an oil soaked cloth and in a glass jar. I do not do as much club work as I once did but they are there when I need them

[Swingingk]

2 hours ago, BIG STU said:

Maltby Golfworks sells the proper reamers in the USA. I have 2 I have used for years. The key for longevity is to go slow and keep the reamer oiled up. Also clean it good after use and keep oiled up. I store mine wrapped in an oil soaked cloth and in a glass jar. I do not do as much club work as I once did but they are there when I need them

^^^this^^^

Stu knows what he's talking about.  😁

 

Ps:  never turn a reamer counter clockwise or you'll wreck it - clockwise only.

[Wham49]

5 minutes ago, Swingingk said:

^^^this^^^

Stu knows what he's talking about.  😁

 

Ps:  never turn a reamer counter clockwise or you'll wreck it - clockwise only.

k, those were the questions I needed answered fellas thanks. I guess there is no shortcuts or cheapcuts to it. But I guess if I get a good one, they will last

[The Aspidistra in the Hall]

6 hours ago, Wham49 said:

I just looked and it wont send to america, so cant even look at what they have, thanks though I think I found one on amazon, I have to use a wrench but it is something

Pity! A sign of the times. Mine came without a wrench, just a square top. I just used a set of mole grips to rotate the reamer.

[bcstones]

20 hours ago, Swingingk said:

Gee that was a pretty nasty thread about hosel reaming!  It's amazing how opinionated and out of control some of the conversations get on this site...

 

gotta admit I stopped reading the thread at the YouTube demenstration....yeah, I've noticed that sometimes it does get a "bit" out of control....that's when I go looking for other threads.....

[Nard_S]

On 10/12/2022 at 9:27 AM, Wham49 said:

However how much different is reaming than drilling. I tried drilling the hell out of it and couldn't get through it. Is it me, or is an actual reamer going to make that much of a difference.

You do not use a reamer to hog out anything. It is used to finish size in straight or tapered profile. Usually within .02" or closer to rough diameter. Not clear on what could be "1/3 of the way down" but a a reamer is not the tool for that. A four flute end mill bit might be a better choice there. I have two reamers in tapered and straight .370". Golf works offers them for cheap.

[Wham49]

so I tried reaming and NArd was right it was too much for the reamer, couldnt get through it, but I oiled the hell out of my drill bit and went really slow with it and got through it. I finished with the reamer to get the little bits out but I messed with the reamer for about an hour till I went with something heavier, after finishing, shafting was easy, except I have a very sore hand the next morning at golf, trying to take all that metal out with a hand reamer. It is done, will be more experienced next time

[bcstones]

there are two reamer sets offered on GolfWorks site...have any thoughts on which would be better for my budget (this past Friday, the kit I had for gripping & reshafting fell out of my vehicle 🥴, the back gate guard came loose....now have to replace most of tools 😕)

[ShortGolfer]

More than likely your drill was too fast and you work hardened the stainless steel.

 

https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-drilling-stainless-steel

[BIG STU]

42 minutes ago, ShortGolfer said:

More than likely your drill was too fast and you work hardened the stainless steel.

 

https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-drilling-stainless-steel

Correct---- I believe with that statement you have done a little machine work in your lifetime

[Wham49]

11 hours ago, BIG STU said:

Correct---- I believe with that statement you have done a little machine work in your lifetime

is that because I tried to drill it before the reaming?

 

that could be, but woouldnt it do the same thing when taking off the shaft, it gets really hot when I do that, so I could have done it before the hosel work