First Time Driver Build

[jrdubbb]

I have a new, uncut driver shaft coming in. I already have a couple extra grips and an extra adapter. I want to build it up myself for both cost and control issues. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on the process to put the adapter on the shaft and from those videos feel confident. The one thing that I am hoping to get some tips and tricks to make this as easy as can be. I have a vice, sandpaper, and grinder for trimming the shaft. I am planning on using the shaft I have in my driver now for measurements to butt trim the shaft. Is there anything I need to know about the cutting disk on my angle grinder? It is a diamond blade that I have used for cutting tile. Also is there a favorite epoxy that y'all get from Lowe's? I know I can order the epoxy from GolfWorks, but it would be easier for me to get it in person.

Any help for a first-timer would be appreciated!

[ChristopherMcDonald]

Couple off the top of my head:

1. Use a razor blade to prep the tip. Way easier than sandpaper
2. Make sure you tip the shaft appropriately per manufacturer specifications. Make sure you tip it before butt cutting to playing length
3. When you cut the shaft, toss some masking tape on there before doing so to help it avoid splintering.
4. Measure twice, cut once
5. Make sure you have grip tape/masking tape on hand for the grip install. Will need mineral spirits as well unless it's water activated double sided tape
6. For Epoxy, I personally use brampton quick set epoxy from Amazon although I'm sure some have success with products available at Lowes

There's lots I'm missing but this should help get you in the right direction

[596]

A normal hack saw with a carbon cutting blade can be used to cut the shaft.  No need to use an angle grinder.  Put painters tape over the area to cut.  I've done many shafts and carbon bike (worth over $10,000) seatpost tubes this way without ever a problem.  

Edited April 18 by 596

[Mikey_HACKilroy]

Emory cloth works just fine for prep. Easier to finesse. Sand paper cut into strips would be more than adequate, and a thicker grit will put texture to the tip (without digging into the graphite) to allow for a better bond.

You should consider some "Epoxy Wipes" to clean off the excess.

 

For a "New to Shafts" guy, I would use Long Cure epoxy. In my experience, it is a safer choice. The epoxy jobs I did on my irons were crackling with the quick set and not so with the long cure. I've got the Brampton's Long Cure stuff, though I've used the long cure from Golf Works and it has worked well also.

Other folks haven't had issues with quick set, but I think the long cure is a better choice for you.

I did have a driver adapter slip 3/16" on me before I pulled it and re-assembled.

Edited April 19 by Mikey_HACKilroy

[Phabs]

-Tip the shaft

-Stick adapter on the shaft - put masking tape about an 1/8th below the top of the ferrule. 
-Scrape paint with a new razor blade below the tape on tip

- Prep clean adapter with acetone , clean shaft tip with acetone

- Glue up adapter 

- Put shaft on a floor heat register and let it get blasted when the heat kicks on

- Cut to length and grip 

 

[Ger21]

Sand the inside of the adapter.

And like most others, I always prep the tips by scraping the paint. I never sand the tips.

When mixing epoxy, mix until you think it's enough. Then mix again for the same amount of time. Most epoxy issues are due to not mixing enough.

[Poor Mans Ty Webb]

Do you know if your current driver shaft is tip-trimmed, and if so, by how much?  It's not hard to get overall playing length correct, but don't overlook tip-trimming as part of your build, as it's something a high-quality fitter would consider when fitting you into the correct driver shaft, and can potentially impact your feel and delivery with the driver.

 

The best fitters have access to an abundance of data and shaft options, as well as a wealth of experience to make an educated guess as to what will probably work best for you.  Us mere mortals, however, often do not, so any tip trimming that you do/don't do can be a sort of leap-of-faith (unless you know for sure what you think you need).  You can get away with starting small (or not at all), but trying to go back after the fact and tip trim an additional half inch or more is going to require additional work and is going to impact your desired overall playing length.  It would be something I would seriously consider before making any cuts and would want to try, as best as possible, to get correct on the first go.  Unfortunately, this is often difficult to do without up front testing.