reshafting iron question

[neverhadaholeinone]

reshafting irons

I'm reshafting my first set of irons (mizuno sures). I removed all the heads.
Shafts are .355 taper tips.

After removing 1st couple of heads I noticed there was a solid plug like piece that the shaft goes over in the bottom of the head. I guess this stabilizes the shaft and holds it in place.
On a couple of the shafts I removed this plug like device came out with the shaft.
Can I buy replacements and what are they called?

Thanks..

[dlefty]

Those are lead tip weights that get glued into the tips of the shafts during the assembly process for final swingweighting. Remove the old ones from the heads in order to clean the hosels properly. Then weigh the heads and install new tip weights as needed in the new shafts to get the swingweights where you want.

[neverhadaholeinone]

Those are lead tip weights that get glued into the tips of the shafts during the assembly process for final swingweighting. Remove the old ones from the heads in order to clean the hosels properly. Then weigh the heads and install new tip weights as needed in the new shafts to get the swingweights where you want.

delefty,

thanks for the quick reply.

I removed all the shafts and all the "weights" were plastic except for one that is lead and weighs 2 ounces (5.6 grams).

I don't know which one the weight came out of.

I did weigh all the heads:

4i - 8.8oz

5 - 8.9oz

6 - 9.2oz + weight still in shaft - hard to remove

7 - 9.6oz

8 - haven't removed shaft

9 - 9.9oz

PW- 10.4oz

 

What do I have to do to get the correct weight?

Since some of the plastic inserts were ruined by the heat of the torch, is it necessary to be replace them?

[freelanceterry]

To get the specs on, mizzy (as many companies do) add tip weights to account for discrepancies in head weights. If no weight is needed, a plastic plug thing is used instead. Don't know why....my guess would be something to do with epoxy running up the shaft during the cure? Perhaps mizzy clubs are cured head up???? No clue.

 

Don't worry about it. Remove it and reshaft w/out them. Makes no difference.

 

How much weight you need to put back is going to depend on not only the weight of the heads - but also the weights of the shafts and grips.

 

Here's what i do with my limited tools:

 

Prep everything well

Dry-fit and cut to final length

Dry-fit again with an old, previously removed grip cut all the way from tip to butt - temp installed on shaft and SW the club.

Add tip weights until you get the desired SW

Repeat for all clubs

 

You can't go down in SW this way & it is very important you are well prepped so that that shaft is fully seated.

 

This will yield a SW matched set at the correct lengths.

 

The issue with doing it this way is that your flexes may be off a bit. But w/out a freq. machine, there's a +/- range built in and I doubt that this method puts it any farther outside that range.

 

Someone may say that those inserts help with "feel". I would say no....but whatever.

If you think this...and are worried about it - wood dowel the shafts....or use sensicore.

I've used the wood dowels successfully. You can buy the pre-fab ones at any hardware store (get the right size for the shaft tip....7/16ths for .355t I think? I'd have to double check). Epoxy and a push rod is all you need from there.

 

If you don't have a SW scale - you'll need a gram scale and a calculator to do the math. It can be done...but I prefer the dry-fit method.

[neverhadaholeinone]

To get the specs on, mizzy (as many companies do) add tip weights to account for discrepancies in head weights. If no weight is needed, a plastic plug thing is used instead. Don't know why....my guess would be something to do with epoxy running up the shaft during the cure? Perhaps mizzy clubs are cured head up???? No clue.

 

Don't worry about it. Remove it and reshaft w/out them. Makes no difference.

 

How much weight you need to put back is going to depend on not only the weight of the heads - but also the weights of the shafts and grips.

 

Here's what i do with my limited tools:

 

Prep everything well

Dry-fit and cut to final length

Dry-fit again with an old, previously removed grip cut all the way from tip to butt - temp installed on shaft and SW the club.

Add tip weights until you get the desired SW

Repeat for all clubs

 

You can't go down in SW this way & it is very important you are well prepped so that that shaft is fully seated.

 

This will yield a SW matched set at the correct lengths.

 

The issue with doing it this way is that your flexes may be off a bit. But w/out a freq. machine, there's a +/- range built in and I doubt that this method puts it any farther outside that range.

 

Someone may say that those inserts help with "feel". I would say no....but whatever.

If you think this...and are worried about it - wood dowel the shafts....or use sensicore.

I've used the wood dowels successfully. You can buy the pre-fab ones at any hardware store (get the right size for the shaft tip....7/16ths for .355t I think? I'd have to double check). Epoxy and a push rod is all you need from there.

 

If you don't have a SW scale - you'll need a gram scale and a calculator to do the math. It can be done...but I prefer the dry-fit method.

Thanks for the excellent guide. I was thinking of doing along the lines you said. I don't have a swingweight scale (golfworks has one for $89.00).

I thought maybe they would SW at a golf galaxy for me. I gave the clubmaker there alot of business.

[freelanceterry]

They should do it for you...super simple.

 

If you SW them w/out the grip - make sure you're a little high because the grip will bring the SW down a bit.

[neverhadaholeinone]

They should do it for you...super simple.

 

If you SW them w/out the grip - make sure you're a little high because the grip will bring the SW down a bit.

Would it be ok to cut the shafts to size and install the grips?

I would just leave the club heads unglued and then have them Swing weighed.