Translucent Pantfill questions!

[BWS]

[quote name='smeech8000' timestamp='1431093695' post='11522505']
[quote name='wrbush31' timestamp='1431087913' post='11521893']
[quote name='smeech8000' timestamp='1430488407' post='11479025']
[quote name='BWS' timestamp='1430193969' post='11456159']
Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a protective coat or something to apply to this paint?
[/quote]

Yes, this has happened to me before, but it seems to only affect the large areas, i.e. cherry bombs, weight cavities, and the wide stripes on the sole of the Selects. Sally Hansen Hard as Nails will provide an effective clearcoat, but you need to apply it carefully because if you use the brush then it can actually penetrate into the paintfill and/or leave brush marks. Use a toothpick or syringe to apply instead. You only need a drop, and make sure the putterhead is situated flat so that the liquid will sit and cure evenly.
[/quote]

I have been sitting on Tamiya Clear Red Acrylic drying in some cherry bombs for a couple of days now, and the paint is still tacky. I'm considering going to the nail polish hardener route. How long does it take to cute and how easy is any cleanup?
[/quote]

There really shouldn't be any cleanup. You only need to apply a drop or two to each bomb to seal it. Again, make sure you refrain from brushing the sealer on because it will mar the paintfill if you dig into it (read: even touch it with the bristles). As with the paintfill process, situate the head so it is perfectly level and the sealer will eventually spread itself out across the full area of the bomb cavity.
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. I gave it a try and failed miserably, but it was my own fault getting too careless with the toothpick. I will make a 2nd attempt and do as you say and just let the sealer spread itself out across the paintfill, it's tough as this stuff seems to dry very fast. This gives me hope though.

I also thought that maybe I was just putting too much of the translucent paint in the larger areas. I retried by applying just two drops in each weight and let them sit for two days (without a topcoat of the sealer). They still looked nice only applying minimal paint. But again, once I put the headcover on and left it for a few hours the paint became spotty and ruined.

[Onyx Z]

The trick is to use a small amount of acetone before applying the paint (if using oil based paint). This will helps the paint spread evenly. Also add a drop on top of the paint if it doesn't look even. This took 5 tries before it looked good.

 

[wrbush31]

Been doing this technique with the nail polish hardener on Tamiya Acrylic Trans Red. Still not having success. Either looks terrible or doesn't cure. Trying another approach with it now. We'll see!

[wrbush31]

No dice, still came out bad. I ended up ordering trans red tamiya enamel from overseas!

[jimkinney]

2 suggestions to try with the Tamiya paint......First make sure the paint is well mixed before applying. Secondly try hitting the paint quickly with a torch or lighter after application. This will remove any bubbles and kick start the drying process.

[wrbush31]

[quote name='jimkinney' timestamp='1431307161' post='11535098']
2 suggestions to try with the Tamiya paint......First make sure the paint is well mixed before applying. Secondly try hitting the paint quickly with a torch or lighter after application. This will remove any bubbles and kick start the drying process.
[/quote]

Bubbles aren't the problem. Just never gets to a hard finish in a cherry bomb. Stays tacky. The nail polish hardener didn't do the trick for me.

[Yanki01]

Tamiya Clear Red X-27? I just painted both my Pro Platinum Mil-Specs with it and zero issues. dab a qtip with some paint thinner, dab it on the area I'm about to paint. get a tooth pick and dip it into the red, let it drop and roll into the letters and go from there. even it out and add more. let it dry about 3hrs and clean the edges with paint thinner. let it sit overnight and swipe with 100% acetone lightly. nice, clean and glossy red finish.

[wrbush31]

[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431317446' post='11536132']
Tamiya Clear Red X-27? I just painted both my Pro Platinum Mil-Specs with it and zero issues. dab a qtip with some paint thinner, dab it on the area I'm about to paint. get a tooth pick and dip it into the red, let it drop and roll into the letters and go from there. even it out and add more. let it dry about 3hrs and clean the edges with paint thinner. let it sit overnight and swipe with 100% acetone lightly. nice, clean and glossy red finish.
[/quote]

Lettering is fine. Issue is with big cherry bombs like in a Select.

[Yanki01]

[quote name='wrbush31' timestamp='1431317549' post='11536140']
[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431317446' post='11536132']
Tamiya Clear Red X-27? I just painted both my Pro Platinum Mil-Specs with it and zero issues. dab a qtip with some paint thinner, dab it on the area I'm about to paint. get a tooth pick and dip it into the red, let it drop and roll into the letters and go from there. even it out and add more. let it dry about 3hrs and clean the edges with paint thinner. let it sit overnight and swipe with 100% acetone lightly. nice, clean and glossy red finish.
[/quote]

Lettering is fine. Issue is with big cherry bombs like in a Select.
[/quote]

how long do you let it sit for and is it on an even surface? I let mine sit for 24hrs before moving or touching it. another few days of it upright with no head cover.

[BWS]

[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431351063' post='11537096']
[quote name='wrbush31' timestamp='1431317549' post='11536140']
[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431317446' post='11536132']
Tamiya Clear Red X-27? I just painted both my Pro Platinum Mil-Specs with it and zero issues. dab a qtip with some paint thinner, dab it on the area I'm about to paint. get a tooth pick and dip it into the red, let it drop and roll into the letters and go from there. even it out and add more. let it dry about 3hrs and clean the edges with paint thinner. let it sit overnight and swipe with 100% acetone lightly. nice, clean and glossy red finish.
[/quote]

Lettering is fine. Issue is with big cherry bombs like in a Select.
[/quote]

how long do you let it sit for and is it on an even surface? I let mine sit for 24hrs before moving or touching it. another few days of it upright with no head cover.
[/quote]

The weights and stripes on the bottom of the Select Newport 2 are my issue. I have let it sit a solid week after applying the paint and it looks just perfect. Then once I put the headcover on or let the club sit on the carpet for a few hours it seems to ruin the paint job. I am using Tamiya acrylic clear colors. I did not realize Tamiya has enamel versions of these paints also, thank you to the user who said they ordered some, I went ahead and ordered them as well, looking forward to their arrival and will try them out.

[wrbush31]

[quote name='BWS' timestamp='1431355800' post='11537588']
[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431351063' post='11537096']
[quote name='wrbush31' timestamp='1431317549' post='11536140']
[quote name='Yanki01' timestamp='1431317446' post='11536132']
Tamiya Clear Red X-27? I just painted both my Pro Platinum Mil-Specs with it and zero issues. dab a qtip with some paint thinner, dab it on the area I'm about to paint. get a tooth pick and dip it into the red, let it drop and roll into the letters and go from there. even it out and add more. let it dry about 3hrs and clean the edges with paint thinner. let it sit overnight and swipe with 100% acetone lightly. nice, clean and glossy red finish.
[/quote]

Lettering is fine. Issue is with big cherry bombs like in a Select.
[/quote]

how long do you let it sit for and is it on an even surface? I let mine sit for 24hrs before moving or touching it. another few days of it upright with no head cover.
[/quote]

The weights and stripes on the bottom of the Select Newport 2 are my issue. I have let it sit a solid week after applying the paint and it looks just perfect. Then once I put the headcover on or let the club sit on the carpet for a few hours it seems to ruin the paint job. I am using Tamiya acrylic clear colors. I did not realize Tamiya has enamel versions of these paints also, thank you to the user who said they ordered some, I went ahead and ordered them as well, looking forward to their arrival and will try them out.
[/quote]

Same here. So I let it the acrylic set for five days, then tried the hardener and it didn't really do much.

[jimkinney]

Has anyone in here tried making custom transparent colors by mixing non transparent and clear gloss? I know it's possible with enamels but I wasn't sure about the acrylics.

[wrbush31]

Tamiya Clear Red enamel showed up today. Drying in a putter as I type. We'll see how she goes!

[jimkinney]

I haven't used it but it's my understanding that enamel has a longer drying time than acrylic. Please do keep us posted!

[wrbush31]

[quote name='jimkinney' timestamp='1431843367' post='11572508']
I haven't used it but it's my understanding that enamel has a longer drying time than acrylic. Please do keep us posted!
[/quote]

Tamiya or just in general? In my experience, Testor's enamel dries pretty much overnight.

The Tamiya enamel was still a little tacky this morning, but I also dropped the paint in late last night and it's humid from rain here so I'm not surprised. I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to see if the concerns discussed here regarding the Tamiya acrylic clears are improved with this enamel. Otherwise it's back to the metal flake red from Testor's unless I can find something else.

[lefty32077]

A small drop of acetone has always worked for me on the translucent effect as well as drying properly

[wrbush31]

[quote name='lefty32077' timestamp='1431886917' post='11574146']
A small drop of acetone has always worked for me on the translucent effect as well as drying properly
[/quote]

The translucent isn't the issue. If you read through this post, people have an issue where large areas (like cherry bombs) don't harden and stay tacky...even when they dry for long periods of time using Tamiya acrylics.

[lefty32077]

If you would read. I said as well as drying properly as it dries faster with the acetone. Probably just luck since I've only done about 150 putter refinishes and painting

[jimkinney]

Any update on the enamel?

[wrbush31]

Well, it certainly has proven more durable in and out of the headcover. I also poked at it (reasonably) with my nail and it stayed in tact. Biggest problem is I just did a bad paint job in my efforts to get it done quickly. I'll likely just leave it as is for awhile anyway.

Long story short, I'm happy with the Tamiya clear enamel so far.

[hawaiianslings]

[quote name='smeech8000' timestamp='1431093695' post='11522505']
[quote name='wrbush31' timestamp='1431087913' post='11521893']
[quote name='smeech8000' timestamp='1430488407' post='11479025']
[quote name='BWS' timestamp='1430193969' post='11456159']
Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a protective coat or something to apply to this paint?
[/quote]

Yes, this has happened to me before, but it seems to only affect the large areas, i.e. cherry bombs, weight cavities, and the wide stripes on the sole of the Selects. Sally Hansen Hard as Nails will provide an effective clearcoat, but you need to apply it carefully because if you use the brush then it can actually penetrate into the paintfill and/or leave brush marks. Use a toothpick or syringe to apply instead. You only need a drop, and make sure the putterhead is situated flat so that the liquid will sit and cure evenly.
[/quote]

I have been sitting on Tamiya Clear Red Acrylic drying in some cherry bombs for a couple of days now, and the paint is still tacky. I'm considering going to the nail polish hardener route. How long does it take to cute and how easy is any cleanup?
[/quote]

There really shouldn't be any cleanup. You only need to apply a drop or two to each bomb to seal it. Again, make sure you refrain from brushing the sealer on because it will mar the paintfill if you dig into it (read: even touch it with the bristles). As with the paintfill process, situate the head so it is perfectly level and the sealer will eventually spread itself out across the full area of the bomb cavity.
[/quote]

What sealer do you use?

[KJLarry]

One suggestion. I would reccomend thoroughly mixing the Tamiya with a tooth pick. If the bottle sat for an extended period of time the paint separates so you may get pigment but not get any of the hardening chemicals. Shaking won't get the sludge off the bottom and on top of that will introduce bubbles into the paint which then cause flaws in the finished product. I've never had a problem with Tamiya hardening in 24 hrs or less. My only other thought is, is the place you are letting it dry humid, cold or both because that will definitely extend dry times but 4 days is waaaaaaay to long. My 2 cents

[dave_79]

Well, it certainly has proven more durable in and out of the headcover. I also poked at it (reasonably) with my nail and it stayed in tact. Biggest problem is I just did a bad paint job in my efforts to get it done quickly. I'll likely just leave it as is for awhile anyway.

 

Long story short, I'm happy with the Tamiya clear enamel so far.

 

Just reading through old threads to get as many Scotty cherry bomb & weight paintfill tips as I can and found this post. So how did the Tamiya Clear Enamel hold up for you?

 

I am having the same problem, after much trial and error I'm getting a good, shiny finish with Tamiya Clear Blue Acrylic - painting the bombs & weights isn't the issue, they look fantastic UNTIL I put the headcover on and then the paint becomes spotty. I now realise I made the noob mistake of not letting it dry for long enough (6 hours, I've started from scratch now and am currently leaving it for a lot longer to cure!) but going on this thread, others have left the acrylics for 24, 48 hours and more and still had the problem of the acrylics not hardening enough and getting messed up as soon as the headcover goes on.

 

I'd love to know if the enamel finish looks as good as the clear acrylic does, but cures better. If so, that is my problem solved.

[Onyx Z]

Well, it certainly has proven more durable in and out of the headcover. I also poked at it (reasonably) with my nail and it stayed in tact. Biggest problem is I just did a bad paint job in my efforts to get it done quickly. I'll likely just leave it as is for awhile anyway.

 

Long story short, I'm happy with the Tamiya clear enamel so far.

 

Just reading through old threads to get as many Scotty cherry bomb & weight paintfill tips as I can and found this post. So how did the Tamiya Clear Enamel hold up for you?

 

I am having the same problem, after much trial and error I'm getting a good, shiny finish with Tamiya Clear Blue Acrylic - painting the bombs & weights isn't the issue, they look fantastic UNTIL I put the headcover on and then the paint becomes spotty. I now realise I made the noob mistake of not letting it dry for long enough (6 hours, I've started from scratch now and am currently leaving it for a lot longer to cure!) but going on this thread, others have left the acrylics for 24, 48 hours and more and still had the problem of the acrylics not hardening enough and getting messed up as soon as the headcover goes on.

 

I'd love to know if the enamel finish looks as good as the clear acrylic does, but cures better. If so, that is my problem solved.

 

Post #32 shows mine done 3-4 years ago and it still looks as good as it did the day I did it. I let mine dry for a week or so before using a headcover.

[brosie4]

Giving a shot at my Newport 1.5 SS. Have my X23 paint, thinner and acetone. I see everyone talking about "drops" of paint and acetone... What's the best application method to get uniform drops. Any input is appreciated...

[dave_79]

Giving a shot at my Newport 1.5 SS. Have my X23 paint, thinner and acetone. I see everyone talking about "drops" of paint and acetone... What's the best application method to get uniform drops. Any input is appreciated...

 

Are you talking cherry bombs or lettering or both ?

 

I took a few attempts to get bombs & weights done to a decent standard. With the bombs, give them a clean and polish, stir your X23 and leave it for about 5 mins. Dab some IPA onto a Q-tip and dab it into the bombs (paint one bomb at a time) as this will make the paint spread out to the edges easier. Dip a toothpick into your X23 and place about 3 drops into the bomb. You can push it to the edges with the stick but as I said, the IPA helps this anyway.

 

Make sure putter head is level, cover the head to make sure dust etc doesn't get in and leave it untouched for 2 days to cure. Even then I wouldn't put the headcover on for a few more days. Take your time; don't rush! If you want the finish lighter or darker just play around with the number of drops you put in as it's very easy to remove the Tamiya acrylics and start again. Happy painting !

[brosie4]

Giving a shot at my Newport 1.5 SS. Have my X23 paint, thinner and acetone. I see everyone talking about "drops" of paint and acetone... What's the best application method to get uniform drops. Any input is appreciated...

 

Are you talking cherry bombs or lettering or both ?

 

I took a few attempts to get bombs & weights done to a decent standard. With the bombs, give them a clean and polish, stir your X23 and leave it for about 5 mins. Dab some IPA onto a Q-tip and dab it into the bombs (paint one bomb at a time) as this will make the paint spread out to the edges easier. Dip a toothpick into your X23 and place about 3 drops into the bomb. You can push it to the edges with the stick but as I said, the IPA helps this anyway.

 

Make sure putter head is level, cover the head to make sure dust etc doesn't get in and leave it untouched for 2 days to cure. Even then I wouldn't put the headcover on for a few more days. Take your time; don't rush! If you want the finish lighter or darker just play around with the number of drops you put in as it's very easy to remove the Tamiya acrylics and start again. Happy painting !

 

Got it. I was talking about for the bombs and weights. I'll try a toothpick. Didn't know if there was a brush/needle type of thing anyone recommended.

[dave_79]

You don't need a brush for bombs & weights as you're only dropping a few tiny drops of paint in.

 

You CAN use needle tip paint applicator bottles to do lettering, that's one thing I haven't yet tried as they are harder to find in the UK

[jaymay82]

I use those needle point bottles similar to what scotty uses.

 

I used to use pointed toothpicks and bbq skewers. Those work just as well.

[dave_79]

Giving a shot at my Newport 1.5 SS. Have my X23 paint, thinner and acetone. I see everyone talking about "drops" of paint and acetone... What's the best application method to get uniform drops. Any input is appreciated...

 

Are you talking cherry bombs or lettering or both ?

 

I took a few attempts to get bombs & weights done to a decent standard. With the bombs, give them a clean and polish, stir your X23 and leave it for about 5 mins. Dab some IPA onto a Q-tip and dab it into the bombs (paint one bomb at a time) as this will make the paint spread out to the edges easier. Dip a toothpick into your X23 and place about 3 drops into the bomb. You can push it to the edges with the stick but as I said, the IPA helps this anyway.

 

Make sure putter head is level, cover the head to make sure dust etc doesn't get in and leave it untouched for 2 days to cure. Even then I wouldn't put the headcover on for a few more days. Take your time; don't rush! If you want the finish lighter or darker just play around with the number of drops you put in as it's very easy to remove the Tamiya acrylics and start again. Happy painting !

 

Got it. I was talking about for the bombs and weights. I'll try a toothpick. Didn't know if there was a brush/needle type of thing anyone recommended.

 

Have you done it yet? Post a pic when done! Translucent Blue X23 rules!