Hillerich and Bradsby Persimmon wood putter

Maxwell · January 30, 2012

Mens R/H 1952-56 HB Mallet head Model P-9 putter

I recently completed a rebuilding and restoration of a 1952-56 Mens R/H Hillerich and Bradsby persimmon wood model P-9 putter. It is a mallet head design with a solid brass sole plate. The club is 35 inches long. It has the original shaft with the about half of the of the True Temper shaft label still visible. It has the original brown leather wrap grip and end cap. The stain is a Lee Valley Dark Mahogany anniline. I then used Constantine oil based wood filler to "fill the pores". I used a "Mohawk" satin lacquer spray as the finish(12 coats). The water slide decal is the correct year and "new old stock". The final coat of lacquer was rubbed out with a 1000 grit nylon pad. The whipping is Barbours 3/18 unwaxed Black Irish Linen with two applications of brushed "flat" lacquer over it. Special thanks go to Mr. "Walter Bills" from Michigan, U.S.A. for the water slide decal. I have posted two pictures of the finished putter with a link to Photobucket and more pictures including
"before and afters".
Max
Canada

Bella Woods · January 30, 2012

Maxwell:

Very nice job on that putter!!!

The finish looks good and the whipping looks great too.
You will be styling on the greens this summer.

teevons · January 30, 2012

Beautiful job Max
You are getting excellent at refinishing!!
How did you spray??Can or compressor?

[quote name='Maxwell' timestamp='1327939320' post='4178225']
[size="4"]I recently completed a rebuilding and restoration of a 1952-56 Mens R/H Hillerich and Bradsby persimmon wood model [/size][size="4"]P-9 putter. It is a mallet head design with a solid brass sole plate. The club is 35 inches long. It has the original shaft with the about half of the of the True Temper shaft label still visible. It has the original brown leather wrap grip and end cap. The stain is a Lee Valley Dark Mahogany anniline. I then used Constantine oil based wood filler to "fill the pores". I used a "Mohawk" satin lacquer spray as the finish(12 coats). The water slide decal is "correct new old stock" and the final coat of lacquer was rubbed out with a 1000 grit nylon pad. The whipping is Barbours 3/18 unwaxed Black Irish Linen with two applications of brushed satin lacquer over it. Special thanks go to Mr. "Walter Bills" from Michigan, U.S.A. for the water slide decal. I have posted two pictures of the finished putter with a link to[url="http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/j427/Maxwell03091956/1952-56%20Hillerich%20Bradsby%20P-9%20putter/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ12"][color="#032b17"] Photobucket [/color][/url]and more pictures including [/size]
[size="4"]"before and afters". [/size]
[size="4"]Max[/size]
[size="4"]Canada[/size]
[/quote]

Maxwell · January 30, 2012

[size="3"]Teevons - I have a good Mikita compressor we purchased 2 years ago and an "entry level" applicator which works very well with 3 and 4 clubs sets BUT I have been finding a simple spray can has its advantages when working with single clubs. My experience has been that good lacquer has a shelf life even when using products such as [/size][url="http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,190,44133&p=30268"][size="3"]"Finish Preserver".[/size][/url][size="3"] Spray cans are so convienent but require a little more time.
With spray cans I apply one thin coat every 7 to 9 minutes with a maximum 3 coats.
I wait "at least" 3 days for the lacquer to shrink, harden and cure and then level with 600 grit [/size][url="http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20177&cat=1,42500"][size="3"]"no-load" sand paper [/size][/url][size="3"] . I then apply 3 more coats(as above) and repeat the same process 2 more times. It's time consuming but reduces (1) the amount of finish to be sanded off and (2) the chances of sanding through the finish into the stain and (3) provides for a even lacquer finish. I'm sure some of the more experienced club repairmen "brush-on" lacquer and have the experience to know how much sanding is required. I'm not near that level of club refinishing.
Max
[/size]

teevons · January 30, 2012

Thanks Max

I wont use lacquer ,the fumes are way too toxic for me, makes my entire house and garage smell too. I might use it if I had a separate shop and ventilated shop with correct mask etc. I also find it dries very quick, you really have to stay on top of it. I have enough brain damage as it is

Teevons - I have a good Mikita compressor we purchased 2 years ago and an "entry level" applicator which works very well with 3 and 4 clubs sets BUT I have been finding a simple spray can has its advantages when working with single clubs. My experience has been that good lacquer has a shelf life even when using products such as "Finish Preserver". Spray cans are so convienent but require a little more time.
With spray cans I apply one thin coat every 7 to 9 minutes with a maximum 3 coats.
I wait "at least" 3 days for the lacquer to shrink, harden and cure and then level with 600 grit "no-load" sand paper . I then apply 3 more coats(as above) and repeat the same process 2 more times. It's time consuming but reduces (1) the amount of finish to be sanded off and (2) the chances of sanding through the finish into the stain and (3) provides for a even lacquer finish. I'm sure some of the more experienced club repairmen "brush-on" lacquer and have the experience to know how much sanding is required. I'm not near that level of club refinishing.
Max