What kind of dress shoes do you wear?

[FAbb]

Getting there. Looks better in brighter light, but I think it could still be another few thin layers before the shine really pops:

 

 

 

 

 

[GooseHook]

Wrapping up the work tonight. The final reveal is tomorrow, but I'll also post a "do's and don'ts" guide for this. This was a case of trial and error.

[FAbb]

That'd be helpful. I'd consider bulling the used 5th Ave's that should be headed my way this week. I bought them specifically to wear with my charcoal suit to formal events, so the formality of the bulled toe look would be appropriate.

[GooseHook]

[u][b]A Not-so-crazy Guide to Bulling[/b][/u]
[i]By Goose[/i]

For starters: there are likely much more detailed, even videotaped, guides of this elsewhere on the web. In fact, I know there are. But most of these guides say that this technique takes practice and patience, which I found to be the case. So this is more along the lines of a collection of pointers from my own experience.


[b]What is it?[/b]

Bulling, simply put, is layering of polish to achieve a mirror-like shine. This is an extreme version of a typical polish. The way this is done is by letting layers of paste wax and water build up. The only way to do this is [b]with paste wax[/b]- you need the hardening effects of paste to build the layers and the shine.

Another point to note: this is a method that is really only applicable to the toe box of a shoe. Because there are multiple hardened layers of polish, this sheen will crack if you apply it to a part of the shoe that creases. So, just the tip.

[b]What you need:[/b][list]
[*]A clean rag for polishing
[*]Clean flannel cloth (or microfiber cloth) for buffing
[*]Horsehair brush
[*]Conditioner (VSC or Reno) or cream polish.
[*]Wax polish, matched as best as you can to the shoe. With all the water involved you're almost inevitably going to have a darker result.
[*]Water (put it in your wax tin lid)
[*]Glasses of bourbon and episodes of True Detective to pass the time.
[/list]
[b]Process:[/b]
[list=1]
[*]Before you start anything, clean the area you are going to polish. Wipe with a clean damp rag and/or brush the dust off.
[*][b]Base layer.[/b] Paste wax can be somewhat drying, so I wanted to condition the leather before applying the hard stuff. For this I used a thin layer of Saphir Renovateur. Apply, let dry, brush and buff. Reno already gives calfskin a nice glow, but we're taking it a step further here.
[*][b]Start[/b]. Take your polish rag, and pick up some paste wax. Then take that and dip it lightly in the water. Now go in small circles on the toe box. Make it even as you want. The feel you want here is a smooth one- if there is too much water,you will feel a little resistance while applying. Simply add polish and keep going. Each "layer" should really only be a wax-water-wax sandwich, don't buildup too much at once.
[*]I found out the hard way that this is very important. LET EACH LAYER DRY. It will not look shiny at all while drying. Once you've given it 15 minutes or so, brush lightly and then buff. As soon as you hit the dried part with a brush you will see shine. You will get results much more quickly if you fully buff out each layer, since the surface for the next layer will be smooth.
[*]Repeat steps 2-4 over. and over. again.
[/list]

When you're done, you may have something like this:
[attachment=2073159:photo.JPG]
[attachment=2073161:photo 3.JPG]

[FAbb]

I think you've convinced me to try it with the 5th Aves. They looked in good condition from the pictures, but I really won't know until I get them in my hands. What would be a good product to use if I want to clean the leather and strip off any layers of product the previous owner applied?

[GooseHook]

Saphir Reno Mat, Lexol , or even VSC should work. If it's remotely uniform I wouldn't worry about a ton of product being on there. If someone sold them they probably didn't polish much at all

What color AEs are they?

[FAbb]

They're black. I wanted a decent quality pair of black shoes for the rare occasion I've actually got to wear a suit. Mine as well spiff them up!

[GooseHook]

Oh, well then your work is easy there. Go with a base of VSC and just use some standard black Kiwi. It's got a nice wax content and will definitely shine up.

[bjackson]

Great guide Goose!

[David30]

Excellent work and demonstration, Goose. Looking to see those worn after a round because it is more important to look good than to feel good. You know what I'm sayin'?

[FAbb]

[quote name='GooseHook' timestamp='1392651476' post='8686139'][list]
[*][b]Glasses of bourbon [/b]and episodes of True Detective to pass the time.
[/list]
[/quote]

I know I'm crossing threads here, but did you try the Breckenridge?

[FAbb]

Like a boss.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrzNkhJsJm8

[gambit]

[quote name='AbbVT24' timestamp='1392669745' post='8688139']
[quote name='GooseHook' timestamp='1392651476' post='8686139'][list]
[*][b]Glasses of bourbon [/b]and episodes of True Detective to pass the time.
[/list]
[/quote]

I know I'm crossing threads here, but did you try the Breckenridge?
[/quote]

True Detective is INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!!!

Goose, maybe I can send you some when Game of Thrones comes back on...that way you have something to do while watching TV? HAHAHAHAHA

[bjackson]

I'm on a House of Cards fix right now

[knock it close]

[quote name='bjackson' timestamp='1392759442' post='8696463']
I'm on a House of Cards fix right now
[/quote] Tell me about it, watched season 2 in under 24 hours.. may have a problem. True Detective is outstanding as well. Oh and Goose those shoes look great.

[gambit]

[quote name='knock it close' timestamp='1392760380' post='8696565']
[quote name='bjackson' timestamp='1392759442' post='8696463']
I'm on a House of Cards fix right now
[/quote] Tell me about it, watched season 2 in under 24 hours.. may have a problem. True Detective is outstanding as well. Oh and Goose those shoes look great.
[/quote]

Is that the one with Spacey? I've been watching House of Lies with Don Cheadle a lot too. Will watch anything he does. I missed most of season 2 of the Newsroom, but have to just get it all in on a weekend when the wife and kids are gone.

[GooseHook]

[quote name='knock it close' timestamp='1392760380' post='8696565']
[quote name='bjackson' timestamp='1392759442' post='8696463']
I'm on a House of Cards fix right now
[/quote] Tell me about it, watched season 2 in under 24 hours.. may have a problem. True Detective is outstanding as well. Oh and Goose those shoes look great.
[/quote]

Thanks man!

And really, I've seen pretty much all these "great shows" and TD is up there with the very top tier, especially if you like mindgames.

GoT doesn't really do that for me since I'm ahead of the show in the books.

[bjackson]

Yeah, Kevin Spacey is the lead

[Jim Clark]

Who cares? WTF?

All of the pictures posted looked gay.

[Wriggles]

Within about 2 hours of my original email, AE had already sent me a return shipping label and said they would fix or replace them once they looked at them. Guess it's off to the UPS drop off tomorrow.

 

Great customer service!

 

Just went to Nordies on lunch and couldn't find anything I liked so they issued me a full refund.

 

Super helpful chart BJackson.

 

The shoes I was going to get were about $450 or so, but then I started thinking...why not just go a little more and get Alden wingtips? Thinking about these...thoughts? I really like the boots, but not sure if they're appropriate for office setting or acceptable with slacks?

 

 

 

 

Didn't know anyone still made a high top oxford, or that's what they were called when I was a boy. My maternal grandfather never owned a pair of low cut shoes in his life. From the earliest I could remember, my mother bought high tops for me. Even in 1958, I was the only boy in school wearing those ancient type oxfords. My grandfather insisted that the high tops protected the ankle from sprains and fractures. I remember my Mom and Dad, specially ordering the shoes from a foot doctor, astronomically priced over $20. I got a new pair every August before school started.

 

I can recall my first low cut oxfords. A plain black pair., a big deal for a 13 year old boy. I used to polish them regularly.

 

Unfortunately, I still was destined to wear high top shoes, or boots as they are called. The US Army was generous enough to give me 2 pairs in 1972. I had to polish those regularly too.

 

Now, my dress shoe of choice are Rockport Dressports. Dressy, but comfortable like court shoes.

[FAbb]

Heads up, folks. It looks like AE is having an extra 20% off sale on clearance items.

I wasn't going to buy these that I posted the other day.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF6031_1_40000000001_-1_

I don't think I can turn them down for $160, though. Damn you, AE!!!

[GooseHook]

[quote name='AbbVT24' timestamp='1392820802' post='8701173']
Heads up, folks. It looks like AE is having an extra 20% off sale on clearance items.

I wasn't going to buy these that I posted the other day.

[url="http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF6031_1_40000000001_-1_"]http://www.allenedmo...40000000001_-1_[/url]

I don't think I can turn them down for $160, though. Damn you, AE!!!
[/quote]


Damn, I've been wanting a PTB too. I'll have to do some sizing research before ordering though. Keep in mind these are on a different last than the 5th Aves and Strands.

[FAbb]

[quote name='GooseHook' timestamp='1392823385' post='8701445']
[quote name='AbbVT24' timestamp='1392820802' post='8701173']
Heads up, folks. It looks like AE is having an extra 20% off sale on clearance items.

I wasn't going to buy these that I posted the other day.

[url="http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF6031_1_40000000001_-1_"]http://www.allenedmo...40000000001_-1_[/url]

I don't think I can turn them down for $160, though. Damn you, AE!!!
[/quote]


Damn, [b]I've been wanting a PTB[/b] too. I'll have to do some sizing research before ordering though. Keep in mind these are on a different last than the 5th Aves and Strands.
[/quote]

I've been wanting a PTB ever since I stumbled across this thread and first saw the Alden PTB. While I can appreciate their quality, there's just no way I'm spending almost $500 for a PTB. These are a very similar aesthetic, at a fraction of the cost. You still know that you're getting a quality product as well.

Let me know if you come across any good info on sizing in this last. Looks like the Leeds is a popular model made on the same last, so maybe there's some good sizing info about it out there in the wild.

EDIT: A couple real-life pictures in this Ad. Always good to see something other than the stock photo.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/339173/bnib-allen-edmonds-stewart-9d-price-drop

[GooseHook]

Just ordered. I went with 8.5D, which is my size in the Strand.

I'm 9D Brannock and wear an 8.5 in Alden's Barrie last, which their PTB and longwings are on. General guidance online is that the 1-511 Last is like the 5-65 (Strand) but wider in the forefoot and a smidge shorter in length.

[mshills]

FWIW, I would size down 1/2 size. I wear an 11.5 in the Fifth Avenue and an 11 in Leeds.

[Va_Golfer86]

Goose, how did you fare with the sizing with your bean boots. This winter has made me realize the importance of an[i] actual[/i] foul weather shoe. What I have now just didn't cut it. If they're half as good as people say, they will definitely be worth it. Once they catch up with demand, I'll probably place an order.

Since they don't manufacture half sizes, did you go down to an 8, or stick with 9 and have a really heavy sock?

[GooseHook]

[quote name='Va_Golfer86' timestamp='1392828628' post='8702095']
Goose, how did you fare with the sizing with your bean boots. This winter has made me realize the importance of an[i] actual[/i] foul weather shoe. What I have now just didn't cut it. If they're half as good as people say, they will definitely be worth it. Once they catch up with demand, I'll probably place an order.

Since they don't manufacture half sizes, did you go down to an 8, or stick with 9 and have a really heavy sock?
[/quote]

size 8 is very comfortable even with thick socks for me.

[FAbb]

According to FedEx, I've got an box with a pair of Allen Edmonds Stewarts in it waiting at my doorstep. The first of two unexpected shoe boxes that are sure to earn me a dirty look or two .

[GooseHook]

[quote name='AbbVT24' timestamp='1393002457' post='8716044']
According to FedEx, I've got an box with a pair of Allen Edmonds Stewarts in it waiting at my doorstep. The first of two unexpected shoe boxes that are sure to earn me a dirty look or two .
[/quote]

Hmm, that means I probably have a box waiting as well!

I'm getting really fed up with FedEx these days though. Their Home Delivery service always gives up after the first attempt. Dude, I have a full time job and can't be home to get your damn boxes.

[Va_Golfer86]

Make that three of us. The 5th ave is waiting for me too!

I got a promotional email from AE about their new store in DC. Just checked it out--really nice. And all items are 15% off. I was tempted on the new Rush St, but showed some restraint.