Newbie builder, have components, need shortening, tipping help Please.

licgolfs · June 11, 2013

So after 30 years of playing a 5 wood with a low trajectory ball flight to 200 yards or so, I purchased some Driver components and need help tipping them correctly. I have read every forum I could find here to familiarize myself with some of the terminology, and my situation. I am a 16 hcp, no lessons, no launch monitor, self taught etc..Here are my components and estimated swing specs and what I would like to achieve,

2012 CLEVELAND CLASSIC UL 290 Driver Head with 12 DEGREE LOFT

Miyazaki Black Tour Issue Superlight C.kua 43a. Believe it has already been previously butt trimmed to 43⅞. NOT TIP TRIMMED YET. MEASURES 250CPM WITH 5"clamp. 233 WITH 2½" CLAMP IF THAT HELPS.

I am 5' 3" tall and currently am very comfortable with my 39.25" Callaway Steel head 5 wood @ 19.5 loft and XPC Power/Control R flex shaft butt trimmed to length.

Looking to play this Driver at the shortest possible length with the most feel in the clubhead as possible at as close to a regular flex as I can make it. I Have a flat, delofted swing with a low trajectory and medium to high spin rate.

Assuming it has been butt trimmed already to 43⅞", How much should I take off each end to get it as short and playable as possible. Thinking I want to play it at 42" or so max. Preferrably shorter. I just want 20 Yards more than my 5 wood with a reasonable dispersion pattern. Not looking to be a bomber. WHEW! Hope that was not too much Info, and I would appreciate any suggestions or advice.

THANK YOU!

Stuart_G · June 11, 2013

No, not too much info. In fact there is one important piece missing. For that length and rough static weight, what's a good swing weight for you?

You have a light head, a super-lite shaft, and want to play it very short. If those are a good fit for you, that's fine but the result will be a significantly light resulting SW. That might be a problem or it might not. The reason it's important is that SW adjustment is most commonly done by adding head weight or tip weights and adding weight can result in changes in flex on the shaft (and the flex seems to be important to you). You might go and have the SW measured for your 5wd (if it feels good) and use that as a starting point. Without any other basis to go by, I'd recommend starting 1" longer than you want (e.g. 43") just putting it together and then test it out by choking up that extra 1". Lead tape (added a little at a time) can be used to find a good SW for you. Then once you know the how much weight to add (or not) and test the feel of the flex of the shaft, you can determine if that last inch (or more) should be taken off the tip or the butt end of the club (or a little from each).

licgolfs · June 11, 2013

So I live in the middle of nowhere and have used some online tools to calculate my swingweight. Based on the average of several calculators, my current driving 5 wood is approximately an A8 to B2 swingweight. I woud like several trim options based on what Grip I go with. Either the light original stock Lamkin which I would have to order, or perhaps a heavier grip if that would produce an easier trim for a novice builder. I realize the butt is a bit larger diamater than standartd and I will have to struggle to get some of the different grips other than stock original on the club....Thanks for any help