Installing new shafts in my irons

Golftoday70Golftoday70 Members Posts: 16
edited Jan 13, 2019 11:27pm in WRX Club Techs #1
Hey golfwrx this is my first post on this forum. I’ve picked up some new uncut shafts for my Callaway Razr X forged irons and have been doing some observing on this site about club building and have now decided to create an account. This is my first club build (I have watched it done a few times from a professional)



I purchased the Callaway Razr X Forged new from a retail store a few years back. I’ve been playing with them and really like them, however the shafts aren’t the best for my liking and I’m in the process of taking them apart and prepping for the new shafts. I’ve removed the heads from the old shafts with a heat gun and have drilled and cleaned the hosels. It seems that I have removed what is called the hosel plug from the hosel. Do I need to replace the hosel plug? If so, where can I buy them? There is a significant gap from where the new shaft stops to the actual end of the hosel. Can I just fill it with epoxy when installing the new shaft and keep the club vertical when drying? (to prevent epoxy from oozing up the shaft). I do not want to use tip weights in the shaft, is it necessary to plug the tip of the new shaft with something? Or can I epoxy the new shaft (hollow) into the hosel? Also - the shafts that I removed (project x 6.0 rifle) have a brass tip weight in all of them.



I hope this isn’t too confusing. - I tried to be as thorough as possible.

I just started this club making stuff and feel pretty confident with it. Just ran into a little hiccup (which I figured would happen)



Any help is greatly appreciated. FYI - I’ve been golfing for nearly 30 years

Comments

  • ClafooneClafoone Hobbyist Members Posts: 118 ✭✭
    I would think you could back fill it with epoxy...these irons aren't true bore-thru's to my knowledge. Ensure the new shafts are the same diameter as the old, the original shafts are .355 I believe. If you're installing .370 shafts that may be why they're not penetrating as deep. Your choice would be to sand down approx 1/2-3/4 of an inch to .355 or open up the hosel some. Also ensure you have all the epoxy out that may be preventing you from inserting your shafts to full depth.



    Luck...



    Randy
    Callaway Rogue Draw: 8.5° using a LH adapter/ Diamana S+ 62
    Callaway Rogue 4W: bent to 16°/ UST Competition 65
    Ping G Hybrids: 19° & 22°/ UST Proforce V2 hybrid (MOI Matched)
    Maltby KE4 S: 5 - GW/ Wishon S2S White (MOI Matched)
    Cleveland Rotex 2.0 CB Black Satin: 54° & 58 Wishon S2S White (MOI Matched)
    Ping Karsten TR Anser 5
  • WanLeftyWanLefty Members Posts: 463 ✭✭
    The gap is a weight port. It doesn't need to be filled with epoxy - you can epoxy the new shaft in without anything in the tip, however, your swing weight might be all over the place.



    Hope that helps



  • Golftoday70Golftoday70 Members Posts: 16
    I don’t know much about the bore thru but does that mean there would be a hole where the epoxy could enter the head? Which I know is bad. If that is what that means then I’m pretty sure these heads are not bore thru. It may have been just extra epoxy that I removed (It was soft and got dang hard real quick)



    WanLefty

    Can you explain swing weight a little more. I’ve weighed the heads and each seem to be consistently different from each other. The clubs have always felt a little heavy for my liking. Are tip weights added to even club weight throughout the bag?
  • Golftoday70Golftoday70 Members Posts: 16
    Clafoone wrote:


    I would think you could back fill it with epoxy...these irons aren't true bore-thru's to my knowledge. Ensure the new shafts are the same diameter as the old, the original shafts are .355 I believe. If you're installing .370 shafts that may be why they're not penetrating as deep. Your choice would be to sand down approx 1/2-3/4 of an inch to .355 or open up the hosel some. Also ensure you have all the epoxy out that may be preventing you from inserting your shafts to full depth.



    Luck...



    Randy




    New shafts are .355 taper tip. Although I was a bit surprised in the amount of wiggle room when I mocked up the new shafts. I’ll for sure use shafting beads and a collared ferrule (old ones have a collar and seems to be designed to fit a collar)

    Old shafts are .355 taper tip



    The gap in the hosel is because there is a lip near the end. The shaft snugs up to it nicely. It’s defintely not epoxy or anything like that. Seems to be in the design/construction of the head. Which leads me to agree with WanLefty it’s a desired area for weighting or maybe extra room for epoxy.
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