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cheap balls vs expensive


redhawkgolf

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[quote name='redhawkgolf' date='02 July 2010 - 09:12 AM' timestamp='1278076361' post='2550753']
I am a slow swinger who has always read that I should use one of the cheaper distance balls. Recently I had the chance to play some higher dollar balls. I found that the higher dollar balls went further.
[/quote]


That's interesting. The TaylorMade Burner LDP is the longest "cheap" ball with decent spin that I've ever played. It's much longer than any of the high end balls, save for the 2009 Pro V1. That thing is nutty long. But $16/dozen vs $46/dozen? Give me the TaylorMade.

TaylorMade 2017 M1 440 8.5° Driver == Project X HZRDUS Black 65 6.5
TaylorMade 2017 M2 Tour 15° FW == Project X HZRDUS Black 75 6.5
Titleist 816H2 19° Hybrid == Veylix Rome 988 S+
Miura 1957 Small Blade 4-PW Irons == TT Project X LZ 6.5
Titleist Vokey SM6 50°, 54°, 58° Custom Wedges == TT Project X LZ 6.5
Titleist Scotty Cameron "Cameron & Crown" M2 Putter
Nike RZN Tour Black Golf Balls

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It's not a cheap-vs-expensive thing at all. There are some balls at any given price point that will carry a bit farther than others with a fairly slow clubhead speed. And there are some that will roll more than others. It really comes down to your particular swing and how much you value carry vs. roll.

For me a Bridgestone E5 will carry pretty well off the driver and irons, just about as much distance as anything in the $25/dozen range. Likewise a Titleist NXT Tour goes pretty far int he $30/dozen range and the old Taylor Made TP Red LDP was absolutely as long as any ball in the $40/dozen range. In each of those price ranges, there were numerous other balls that didn't generate as good a distance for my swing.

If you hit the ball more or less straight (i.e. not a real bad hook or slice or chop-down-on swing) but just don't generate but maybe 80mph-ish clubhead speed then for driver distance you absolutely need as much spin as you can get. And more spin is easier to find in expensive balls than really cheap ones. But for $25/dozen the E5 seems to spin a good bit. If you cut across the ball with an OTT swing that extra spin probably costs you more direction than it gains you in distance.

So like I say, it's a highly individual thing.

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[quote name='redhawkgolf' timestamp='1278076361' post='2550753']
I am a slow swinger who has always read that I should use one of the cheaper distance balls. Recently I had the chance to play some higher dollar balls. I found that the higher dollar balls went further.
[/quote]

If you want a tour quality ball at a cheaper price, just buy last year's models. Usually about $25, or about the price of a mid level ball.

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Try the Burner TP. Price is awesome (2 doz for $40) and its a very good mid-level ball. Its long off the tee, and still has enough greenside spin for us non-great players.

To directly answer your question, I think it was more of a fluke than anything. You probably just hit the good balls right on the nails more and got more yardage. Basically, in order to properly compress most high end balls, you need a higher swing speed.

Secondly, is it possible that your swing is faster than you think?

Ping G25 w/ RIP Phenom
Adams Super LS Hybrid 17*
Adams SS Super Hybrid 19*
i20 4-UW
Taylormade TM-110
Cleveland CG14 56 & 60

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If you want a tour quality ball at a cheaper price, just buy last year's models. Usually about $25, or about the price of a mid level ball.
[/quote]


+1. good answer. the only balls that don't seem to drop in price is ProV1 and ProV1x. you can get great deals on last years balls. some of the premium balls do not change that dramatically from year to year. i recently found a box of precept u-tri balls in my car. they have to be a few years old. played with them for the hell of it and they performed great. didn't notice any loss of distance. spin was good.

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[+1. good answer. the only balls that don't seem to drop in price is ProV1 and ProV1x. you can get great deals on last years balls. some of the premium balls do not change that dramatically from year to year. i recently found a box of precept u-tri balls in my car. they have to be a few years old. played with them for the hell of it and they performed great. didn't notice any loss of distance. spin was good.


[/quote]
I used to try balls all the time, but felt that I needed to eliminate one variable to score better. So now I try to find a ball I really like from the previous year, then stock up. I bought 4 dozen Callaway tour i(x) this summer, and they will last until next year. My scores have been going down, partly because I do know what the ball will do when I chip it or pitch it.

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I'd recommend you focus on which ball feels and performs best on iron shots into and wedges around the green. Distance on balls is overrated because most balls are within yards of each other when struck identically. That's the key - flushing hitting whatever ball you play. This years golf ball reviews from Golf Magazine and Golf Digest pretty much show that distance within category is usually no more than 5 or so yards, and between categories is pretty much always under 10 yards. Not enough to pay for premium to me.

The other important factor is durability regarding tear resistance. Scuffs and wear that are surface marring but not drastic don't do that much to performance either.

As for performance, I've found several balls in the $20-25 mark work well. I generally just wait for high-end balls that are being discontinued to go on sale and stock up for the following year. That's not hard for me though because I don't get to play as much as I'd like, and I can usually easily make it through a round with one sleeve.

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