Remove the red anodized color from Cameron GoLo 5 Sole Plate? You sure can!

[hurricaneskizz]

[quote name='kmac02576' timestamp='1412643913' post='10246341']
It's something that can be done at home. The polymer coating has to be sprayed on and heat cured. An oven will do the trick nicely to cure it.
[/quote]

What is the exact stuff you used to get it black? You said it was a polymer that is heat cured? Can you possibly send me a link of what it looks like?

I would greatly appreciate it

[dmr188]

Alright, so I took a little time off from this project as I was getting pretty discouraged trying to get the sight-line white. After struggling to get it the way i wanted it I ended up just stripping it again and leaving it. Might be a blessing in disguise cause I've used it a couple times in the last week and think I actually prefer it just the natural color, I think it looks pretty cool. Anyway, heres the final product for anyone interested.

[KNGR5150]

Nice!

[kmac02576]

[quote name='gioguy21' timestamp='1418300308' post='10577355']
[quote name='prestiege' timestamp='1418265097' post='10575919'][quote name='gioguy21' timestamp='1418133986' post='10566657']
i might try this on my futura x5 plate...
[/quote]

i have one on the way, i like the black on the bottom but would prefer to strip only the top, being in chicago i have a couple months to decide and tinker before i can get out on a course[/quote]
Im pretty sure stripping only one side is going to be almost impossible
[/quote]

Sand/bead blasting would work in this situation. You could tape off the areas you don't want the black removed just to be safe. I do this when I sandblasted the 2014 Select series. I taped up the cherry bombs so they would retain the stainless steel shine and not become dull. It works quite well. This would be the best option because even a splash of the stripper on an area you don't want to change could screw up the finish.

I would definitely go with the blasting option in this case

[kmac02576]

[quote name='dmr188' timestamp='1419272854' post='10629045']
Do you have a link to a particular product you used? Is it kind of like a spray paint you put on then bake it? I've been trying to research it, but must be searching wrong cause I'm not coming up with alot of results. Any links or anything would be appreciated.

As a side note, I did try spray painting it this weekend with a Valspar Spary Paint/Primer and it turned out ok I guess. If i was going to keep it with spary paint I'd probably re-do it, but just curious of that will hold up.

Thanks
[/quote]

It's a thermally cured polymer. It is applied using an airbrush gun.

I get mine from a local metal finishing company. But there are several gun refinishing products that could achieve similar results such as gun-kote, duracoat, molyresin, etc... Call a few metal finishing companies in your area. If you don't have any luck, research some of the products I listed and try the one you feel suits your needs the best. I've used them all in the past with success.

[RookieBlue7]

Be careful baking to cure these. One slip up on the temp and you'll have an aluminum puddle

[kmac02576]

[quote name='RookieBlue7' timestamp='1426888780' post='11182177']
Be careful baking to cure these. One slip up on the temp and you'll have an aluminum puddle
[/quote]

Mine held up fine at 325* for about 1hr 15 min

[attachment=2672141:IMG_1031.jpg]

[tingle86]

Did you have any issues. I am unable to get the screws out Using the 1/16th allen. Was there any tricks to it. Maybe apply some heat to it due to some glue or loctite?

[kmac02576]

[quote name='tingle86' timestamp='1426918590' post='11184625']
Did you have any issues. I am unable to get the screws out Using the 1/16th allen. Was there any tricks to it. Maybe apply some heat to it due to some glue or loctite?
[/quote]

I didn't have any problems whatsoever with the screws. I have 2 swiss army style allen wrench keys, 1 regular and one metric that I got from Home Depot. One of them worked fine. Don't recall which.

[dmr188]

I had an issue with one of mine. Ended up stripping it and had to drill it out. So I ordered a bunch more (Think they were like 7cents each, the shipping was 10 times more than the cost of the screws), but anyway, got a bunch of extras and am good to go. I suppose I could have prevented that stubborn one by heating it a little?

[tingle86]

where did you order them from? I am almost @ the point of just doing that.

[dmr188]

Heres the ones I ordered. I found them on another thread. I was nervous cause the picture makes them look long, but they are the right ones. I think I ordered like 16 of them just for the heck of it. Ended up being like $8 bucks or something like that (Most was shipping). But pretty cheap really to have those on hand I think.

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/73708

[tingle86]

Thanks for the link. I tried to get the screws out again this weekend and they were stripped out. Took it into work and finally got them out. did the oven cleaner tonight. Starting to look good but I'm going to soak it again tomorrow. just have to remove all the paint from the head and finish the plate in a few spots and I should be good. I will get some pics up when I'm done

[lumbee1977]

This works like a charm, thanks!!

 

 

Instagram: brandon_dean_lowery

[raholland71]

so i stripped one of the screws on my golo sole plate and the #1 extractor didn't work at all. Am I SOL?

[tingle86]

I got them out but I don't know what extractor I used. I took it to my work and had my maintenance guy do it

[Jazzmastafish]

I actually have the opposite question.... I have the original GoLo with the black finish and the plain aluminum sole plate. Just verifying that it is standard aluminum, and wondering where I could take it to get it anodized some crazy color. Thanks

[kmac02576]

[quote name='Jazzmastafish' timestamp='1431225317' post='11530248']
I actually have the opposite question.... I have the original GoLo with the black finish and the plain aluminum sole plate. Just verifying that it is standard aluminum, and wondering where I could take it to get it anodized some crazy color. Thanks
[/quote]

Definitely. They are shops in nearly every big city's industrials areas that anodize aluminum and the colors you can anodize aluminum with are pretty much limited only by your imagination. They will strip it, prep it and anodize it for you and probably to do for very little cost being that is a single small piece. Much smaller than they are used to working with. You could probably pay an employee to do it over their lunch break

[kmac02576]

I found out the size Allen that I used to remove the screws. It was the smallest size on a Swiss army style Allen wrench key. The size said 5/64. This worked for the old Golos as well as the 2015 golo 6 I am currently working on. So if you can find a 5/64 Allen wrench, there should be no problems whatsoever removing the screws and no stripping.

[barosborough]

[quote name='dmr188' timestamp='1427069346' post='11193751']
Heres the ones I ordered. I found them on another thread. I was nervous cause the picture makes them look long, but they are the right ones. I think I ordered like 16 of them just for the heck of it. Ended up being like $8 bucks or something like that (Most was shipping). But pretty cheap really to have those on hand I think.

[url="https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/73708"]https://www.fastenal...s/details/73708[/url]
[/quote]

Thanks a bunch for the link. I just ordered some. I had removed the plate just fine but then stripped it later putting it back on. I was freaking out and would have never ordered these based on the stock picture. CHEERS!!

Some of my experiences with the 2014 Fastback Soleplate.

-- 1/16th allen worked best for me
--- Stripped it by not doing the right research on here and used a Torx. Was able to get the stripped one out by going up one size on the torx that just kinda fit in. Took a hammer and gently tapped the bigger torx in to force it in. These screws are soft (obviously for how easy the strip) and it slipped right in and stayed tight enough to remove the bugger.
-- Rustoleum Aircraft Remover worked the best for me for removing paint fill. Got it at Autozone
-- Easy Off (Heavy Duty Yellow Can) worked best for removing red anodized color from the plate. I tried for hours scrubbing and soaking with Greased Lightning and it just didn't fully remove the red. 5 mins with the Easy off and it was all gone.

[gioguy21]

[quote name='raholland71' timestamp='1427989637' post='11268945']
so i stripped one of the screws on my golo sole plate and the #1 extractor didn't work at all. Am I SOL?
[/quote] i went to the store and got one of those infomercial 'speed out' kits...took no time and i was good to go.

[barosborough]

Finished my Fastback. Lots of help from many threads on here so thought I'd share my experience and notes about the process. First some pics. I graduated from Oregon State so I went Orange and Black!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips that worked best for me for Soleplate and Paint fill

 

Soleplate

--- 1/16th allen wrench. If you need extra screws buy here https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/73708

--- Remove paint fill first. Rustoleum Aircraft Remover worked awesome. Found it at Auto Zone

--- Easy Off HEAVY Duty (yellow can) worked best to remove red anodized finish on the plate. Grease lightning not so much.

--- I had mine anodized black by a local anodizing shop. Was $40 and was too much for such a little project but it's done and should hold up really well.

 

Paint Fill

--- I found Tamiya Enamel on ebay. Heard that it works better then acrylic but time will tell.

--- Used a old t-shirt to apply some rubbing alcohol on surface that was to be paint filled. Really helped the enamel flow into the fill areas.

--- I used Glue Applicator Syringes to apply paint. Since I was using very little paint at a time and didn't want to clean the bottle and needle these disposable syringes are perfect. Here's the ones I used.

--- Having Baby Wipes around really helps with cleanup and messes. Even the enamel comes off your hands fast if you got wipes around.

--- For the grip I just used some acetone in each letter to soften the paint. Then scrapped it out with the file of a fingernail clipper. Only apply paint fill to a grip after it's installed on the club.

 

Hope this helps someone down the line. Most of this stuff can be found already on here but since the Soleplate was the main focus I wanted to post it here. Thanks for looking.

[lumbee1977]

Will this work on the new integrated face and sole for the 2015 GoLo line?

[barosborough]

[quote name='lumbee1977' timestamp='1433209730' post='11671262']
Will this work on the new integrated face and sole for the 2015 GoLo line?
[/quote]

Check this thread out.
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1162563-has-anyone-done-any-work-on-a-2015-golo-yet/

[lumbee1977]

Thanks!!

[browne11]

Just got a lefty one off bst and waited about 2 minutes to get to work on it. I'm gonna look into getting the plate done in a polymer but this will do for now. Looks so much better than red.

[lumbee1977]

[Minerproblem]

Finished my Fastback. Lots of help from many threads on here so thought I'd share my experience and notes about the process. First some pics. I graduated from Oregon State so I went Orange and Black!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips that worked best for me for Soleplate and Paint fill

 

Soleplate

--- 1/16th allen wrench. If you need extra screws buy here https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/73708

--- Remove paint fill first. Rustoleum Aircraft Remover worked awesome. Found it at Auto Zone

--- Easy Off HEAVY Duty (yellow can) worked best to remove red anodized finish on the plate. Grease lightning not so much.

--- I had mine anodized black by a local anodizing shop. Was $40 and was too much for such a little project but it's done and should hold up really well.

 

Paint Fill

--- I found Tamiya Enamel on ebay. Heard that it works better then acrylic but time will tell.

--- Used a old t-shirt to apply some rubbing alcohol on surface that was to be paint filled. Really helped the enamel flow into the fill areas.

--- I used Glue Applicator Syringes to apply paint. Since I was using very little paint at a time and didn't want to clean the bottle and needle these disposable syringes are perfect. Here's the ones I used.

--- Having Baby Wipes around really helps with cleanup and messes. Even the enamel comes off your hands fast if you got wipes around.

--- For the grip I just used some acetone in each letter to soften the paint. Then scrapped it out with the file of a fingernail clipper. Only apply paint fill to a grip after it's installed on the club.

 

Hope this helps someone down the line. Most of this stuff can be found already on here but since the Soleplate was the main focus I wanted to post it here. Thanks for looking.

 

Did you have any issues with the screws after you coated the plate with resin? I'm worried about gunking up the threading.

[ws6]

[quote name='jtitleist12' timestamp='1410214775' post='10085925']
[quote name='finchi5' timestamp='1410211774' post='10085729']
Superb find. I wonder if it would strip the black PVD off the selects??
[/quote]

It won't remove the pvd from the Selects.

- Josh
[/quote]

Do you know if it would take the black off the aluminum Big Surs?

[jtitleist12]

[quote name='ws6' timestamp='1442680079' post='12335568']
[quote name='jtitleist12' timestamp='1410214775' post='10085925']
[quote name='finchi5' timestamp='1410211774' post='10085729']
Superb find. I wonder if it would strip the black PVD off the selects??
[/quote]

It won't remove the pvd from the Selects.

- Josh
[/quote]

Do you know if it would take the black off the aluminum Big Surs?
[/quote]

It might if those putters were anodized aluminum. The black Selects are a PVD finish which is much, much stronger and durable than an anodized finish.

- Josh