Where to find manufacturer head weight specs and tolerances

[Ironstinger13]

I have a set of Titleist 718 CB from 2i-PW and I recently pulled the Project X LZ 6.0 shafts out that were .5" long, cleaned the hosel and weighed the club heads. 7/9 of the irons had tip weights in them. My results are as listed below. I am trying to find out what Titleist's specs are for the Head weights and their tolerances. I have emailed them twice now with no response so I am hoping for some help on here. I am new to club building but feel like I have a good grasp on things so far. I am not positive if this is true but I have heard that "industry standard" is 7g differences between iron head weight. I have been figuring out that there truly is no industry standard but 7g differences keep popping up in my recent searches. I also saw in the link attached that the 6i should be 259.8g. if anyone know how I can obtain the specs on these irons head weights and also the differences that should be between them, that would be very helpful so I can figure out what gram tip weights I will need.

 

http://ralphmaltby.com/mpf/titleist/

 

PW 287g

9i 282g

8i 274g

7i 268g

6i 259g

5i 253g

4i 245g

3i 240g

2i 236g

[tx33]

The OEM is your best (and likely only) option for detailed specs. There is no real standard but most OEMs will use a similar weight per iron and an approximate 7g gap. Manufacturing tolerances are +/-3g for even the major brands, hence the abundance of tip weights FWIW, it doesn't really matter what the weights/gaps SHOULD be since you already have the heads weighed. You know what they ARE and can take it from there. Grab a roll of lead tape and find what head weight feel YOU prefer in let's say a 7 iron. Repeat for wedge and 2i and you have your personal slope.

[Stuart_G]

If you don't get any responses to your e-mails, you can always try posting a question on the TeamTitleist forum. That's the only place I've seen Titleist release any additional specs. Also keep in mind that most OEM's have multiple options (specs) for head weight to accommodate builds of various lengths.

 

But tx33's point is a good one. The official specs don't really matter. You should already know your target playing lengths and swing weight(s) before building the set. So knowing the 'official specs' wont change anything about what you should have to do for your build.

[Ironstinger13]

If you don't get any responses to your e-mails, you can always try posting a question on the TeamTitleist forum. That's the only place I've seen Titleist release any additional specs. Also keep in mind that most OEM's have multiple options (specs) for head weight to accommodate builds of various lengths.

 

But tx33's point is a good one. The official specs don't really matter. You should already know your target playing lengths and swing weight(s) before building the set. So knowing the 'official specs' wont change anything about what you should have to do for your build.

 

So I have been trying to figure out the progression of head weights based off of my current head weights doing 7g increments from my 6i being set at 259g which puts me at (see chart below). This shows that I would have to take weight out of the heads and I don't really want to go down that road. So what would be your suggestion for weights for each head? I have pulled my 120g 6.0 LZ shafts and I am putting in 130g Xstiff C-Tapers +.5" with the MCC new decade grip that are standard weighing at 46.5g.

 

Type of Iron

Current Weight (g)

7g increments 6i 259g start

PW

287 287=0

9

282 280=-2

8

274 273=-2

7

268 266=-2

6

259 259=0

5

253 252=-1

4

245 245=0

3

240 238=-2

2

236 231=-5

[Stuart_G]

So what would be your suggestion for weights for each head?

 

My suggestion would be to use a swing weight scale. If you don't want to go down the road of removing weight from any of the heads, then dry fit the heads into the desired shaft (cut to the desired lengths) and measure the Swing weight of each. Then use the one that gives the heaviest swing weight as a baseline and then add weight to all the others to match it. You don't even need the grips on for that approach.

 

The whole point of getting a certain head weight progression is to get a certain SW match (or SW progression) for the set. BUT swing weight is a function of more than just head weight, the playing length plays a big part as well as manufacturer variations in shaft weight and balance point. So it's always better to account for all those variations that happen in the build (length, shaft weight, shaft balance point, and head weight) when doing the swing weight matching instead of getting overly focused on the head weight progression.

[Rk5]

For reference, I rebuilt my 718 CBs last month and the head weights are similar to yours. (Mine are built +0.5 w/S300 AMT shafts and play around D5)

 

P 288

9 283

8 275

7 268

6 261

5 253

4 247

 

Also worth considering the scales you measure on, I know I just use digital Salter kitchen scales but there is bound to be a tolerance of a few grams on them.

 

IMO you'll get best results doing a dry assembly and measure SW rather than trying to work everything out beforehand.

[Ironstinger13]

So what would be your suggestion for weights for each head?

 

My suggestion would be to use a swing weight scale. If you don't want to go down the road of removing weight from any of the heads, then dry fit the heads into the desired shaft (cut to the desired lengths) and measure the Swing weight of each. Then use the one that gives the heaviest swing weight as a baseline and then add weight to all the others to match it. You don't even need the grips on for that approach.

 

The whole point of getting a certain head weight progression is to get a certain SW match (or SW progression) for the set. BUT swing weight is a function of more than just head weight, the playing length plays a big part as well as manufacturer variations in shaft weight and balance point. So it's always better to account for all those variations that happen in the build (length, shaft weight, shaft balance point, and head weight) when doing the swing weight matching instead of getting overly focused on the head weight progression.

 

Thank you for the information. I just ordered the economy golf works scale and I'll just dry fit them and go from there!

[Ironstinger13]

For reference, I rebuilt my 718 CBs last month and the head weights are similar to yours. (Mine are built +0.5 w/S300 AMT shafts and play around D5)

 

P 288

9 283

8 275

7 268

6 261

5 253

4 247

 

Also worth considering the scales you measure on, I know I just use digital Salter kitchen scales but there is bound to be a tolerance of a few grams on them.

 

IMO you'll get best results doing a dry assembly and measure SW rather than trying to work everything out beforehand.

 

Thanks for the help! I love the CBs. I just want as much consistency as possible. I'm shooting for D5 as well. Gonna be interesting with the C Tapers.