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Glass Shafting Beads


MrGoobers

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C'mon man, Brampton is aerospace epoxy! Likely an unfilled epoxy given its viscosity.

Sorry, but these are NV105 .355 taper tip shafts, not Exsars. Mizuno sticker on them with terribly dried out Mizuno grips. It was an upgrade. So, I think you're wrong, and so is Stuart. Can't use a shim. Not gonna fit.

I'm actually wondering why I'm discussing this on a forum.

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Doesn't really matter what you think is significant. The simple fact is that the best that the beads will help you with aligning the shaft is still an order of magnitude smaller than the manufacturing tolerances of the head loft/lie angles so will be lost in the noise of all the other sources for error. On top of that, even the best builders with the right equipment can only hope to get an accuracy of 1/2* when measuring and bending the lie angles. Most amateur builders are lucky if they can get it within 1*. Even without a shim, a properly fit collared ferrule will do way more to align the shaft and prevent a glue joint that's too thin in spots than the beads could ever hope to do.

And when we say shim, there are plenty of ways to shim different levels of gaping. So any gap that really is too small to shim means it's a good fit and neither beads nor a shim is really needed.

But, to be honest, I'm not as adverse to people using the beads as some so could care less if people use them or not. As long as they use the correct ration I'm not one to be worried about what it might do to the glue joint strength. My only concern is that peoples expectations of what they really do and how much they help are frequently over inflated. At best they are a band aid and rarely are they really the best way to deal with a problem of the shaft fit in the hosel. They may not hurt very much when used properly, but they aren't really helping out as much as people think if there really is a problem with the fit.

 

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I really don't like how this guy assembles clubs. What builder starts messing around with hosel cleaning, ferrules and shaft prepping after he has mixed the epoxy? Epoxy mixing is the last step before the actual assembly takes place. And it doesn't need to stand to thicken. If it has started to thicken, the pot-life has been exceeded and you likely should be throwing it away. The reaming of the ferrule is absolutely insane to be doing without gloves. One slip with his fingers and that reamer will take the flesh off right to the bone. If he was working for me that likely would be a firing or suspend-able action.

As far as the shafting beads, he has NO idea of how much he has used (likely way more than recommended). To center a shaft you need to be using something with greater diameter than .002" to be effective. Shafting beads have their place, but it's not in golf club assembly.

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (on order)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (soon to be mothballed)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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The beads are not specifically there to center the shaft. They are there to ensure a minimum bond line. If the shaft is touching the hosel you've lost some of your bond surface.

A better tip is to use TT-P-735 Grade A, or at least the purest (least amount of water) isopropyl. Some pharmacies carry 92% or greater.

I think a few people on here are too pedantic.

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Alcohol will work fine if the parts are generally clean but if there is any question, go for something stronger like MEK. The cleaning process should be degrease, abrade, degrease, bond. A bit overkill, but in some circumstances it's needed. This experience has taught me a LOT...https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1801554/insertion-depth-of-pings-w-hosel-weights-g410-g700-i500/p1

 

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Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
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HI

I think you will find a lot of builders will mix epoxy before going through other steps, especially since the work time on the epoxy I generally use is close to an hour.

As for the ferrule reaming, its not something I recommend to builders with limited experience but its a practice I have done for quite some time to ensure a proper fit and never had any issues. I've been building clubs for a long time ( getting close to 2 decades ) which in that time includes managing the production side of a large custom club fitting shop.

I realize that there are other ways to get things done but these are the methods that have served me well in my more than 15 years working in the club fitting and building industry, and like always I'm happy to answer questions.

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The beads are not specifically there to center the shaft. They are there to ensure a minimum bond line. If the shaft is touching the hosel you've lost some of your bond surface.

But most people use beads for centering the shaft. They have no clue about bond line. That’s why, under most cases in club building, it is used incorrectly.

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (on order)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (soon to be mothballed)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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I ream ferrules regularly but not while holding them in my hand and spinning the reamer fast with a drill motor. That's an accident waiting to happen.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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