1953 Spalding Top-Flite Synchro-Dyned Irons

[cold_war_era_golfer]

50 minutes ago, jfrank said:

My 1953 models (triangle near the hosel) have black True Temper bands on them with a square around a "T" on the shaft band.  I've hit the 2 iron and it feels like a firmer shaft - great for stingers.  My 8-iron (maybe a 54?) has a Green Rocket band with a star on it.  The lofts are so different it's hard to compare the two.

 

So for the 1954 Rocket Shaft the * would indicate stiff.  ** even stiffer.  No star would indicate regular flex.  Not sure about the '53 shafts.  There is some information online that the shape stamped on the head is indicative of the flex shaft.  However, I have a document from a vintage collector book that states the shape stamped on the heads was more related to swing weight and not just shaft flex.  I'll have to dig that up.  

 

I've got a few sets of the 1954s which I believe have the exact same head as the '53 but no shape stamped on to the head and a more conservative looking ferrule.  Those Rocket shafts with the green labels are some of my favorites.  I have a hard time telling the stiff from the regular flex with those.   I recently took on a set of '55s with Rocket Shafts that have an A on the label.  I'm assuming that's a senior flex.

 

By 1956/57 The Rocket Shafts would state R or S and did away with the * system.  

 

 

[cold_war_era_golfer]

Are the 1952 Spalding's Tournament models the same as the 1953 Synchro Dyneds?

[jfrank]

Last year, I inherited a partial set of Spalding Synchro-Dyned irons from 1953 and pieced together some other Spalding blade replacements to fill the gaps.  I also found a late-40s Kro-Flite wedge.  I recently redid the paint fill on all of the irons and got them cleaned up in my shop. 

 

The 2,3,5,7 irons are 1953 Spalding Top-Flite Synchro-Dyned units - Triangle with dot heads - neat/tall wood ferrules (436682A).  The shafts on the 2 & 3 iron were heavily pitted, so I stripped the chrome off and coated them with a ceramic rust converter.  The shafts in the 5&7 irons are still pretty clean with light pitting. True Temper Square T shafts.  I've hit the 2 iron a few times, went over 200yd.

The 8 iron is a 1954 Spalding Top-Flite Synchro-Dyned unit (461343) with a True Temper Green Rocket - one star shaft.  8 iron is in great shape. 

Original leather grips on all of them in decent shape:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 6, 9, PW are Spalding Top-Flite Irons circa-1981 (AI-008028) - True Temper Dynamic Taper Stiff flex shafts - black/red ferrules and fresh black paint fill - Golf Pride Swing Rite grips.

The Spalding Kro-Flite Wedge is from the 1940s and has an un-worn sandpaper-like face (10172).  I de-burred the sole and it has some sort of copper coating underneath the primary chrome coating.  Avon Chamois jumbo grip.  No markings on shaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic Spalding Set:

A unique time in American manufacturing.

[bcstones]

15 minutes ago, jfrank said:

The shafts on the 2 & 3 iron were heavily pitted, so I stripped the chrome off and coated them with a ceramic rust converter. 

Wonderful set...like the way you put together the set. Gotta ask, cuz I have any number of clubs w/pitted or flaking chrome shafts - what is the "ceramic rust converter" & how is it done (if you don't mind sharing a "secret(?)"

[jfrank]

Eastwood makes a rust converter you can use - strip any loose stuff with a soft wire brush on the low-speed bench grinder, clean it really well with acetone, then apply the phosphate based converter (gives a dull black finish like a phosphate treated bolt).  Coat it with a flat black ceramic coating.  I used to restore old BMWs, so this was a common technique in that line of work, carried over into the golf shop.

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, jfrank said:

Eastwood makes a rust converter you can use - strip any loose stuff with a soft wire brush on the low-speed bench grinder, clean it really well with acetone, then apply the phosphate based converter (gives a dull black finish like a phosphate treated bolt).  Coat it with a flat black ceramic coating.  I used to restore old BMWs, so this was a common technique in that line of work, carried over into the golf shop.

Hmmmm...ok, I'm just a guy working out of my garage w/mostly simple tools (don't have a variable speed or low-speed grinder), don't mind working by hand. How do you apply the converter & coating, a sprayer or???
I like the looks of what you've done....thanks.

 

Just checked the Eastwood site....are you talking about the "metal blackening system"....there are alot of products on that site.

[jfrank]

On 5/22/2023 at 11:17 AM, bcstones said:

Hmmmm...ok, I'm just a guy working out of my garage w/mostly simple tools (don't have a variable speed or low-speed grinder), don't mind working by hand. How do you apply the converter & coating, a sprayer or???
I like the looks of what you've done....thanks.

 

Just checked the Eastwood site....are you talking about the "metal blackening system"....there are alot of products on that site.

If you're working on a budget in a small space, you could get some of these for your drill:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-brush-94014.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=118355061833&adsetid=118355061833&product=94014&store=539&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLGjBhDKARIsAFRNgW-4IWc25ozHVRkn6LcWsxMNC9pcBSQUM-tLURGk0RC2A71xuzcVzB8aAsO8EALw_wcB

You'll probably want to secure the drill in something like a vice to be able to spin the shaft by hand.  You can zip tie the trigger to the preferred speed.

 

There are some rust converters available at Harbor Freight if you want to find something local without the shipping from Eastwood. 

If you have heavy rust, you could brush on this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html

Then when you get it looking smooth again you can apply this to prep for top coat:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1025-oz-rust-reformer-spray-paint-67970.html

The top coat needs to be something that is a good ceramic based coating or it won't last long.  Thick coats on an oil based treatment can get heavy. 

 

I suggest getting some good masking tape and some plastic to cover anything you don't want in a phosphoric reaction.  Good luck!

 

It's a lot of fun taking something 70 years old and making it look new again.  A deburring wheel and some good paint fill goes a long way.  I cringe to think what some of the plastic badges on modern clubs would like in 70 years, especially down here in Florida garages.

Edited May 23, 2023 by jfrank

[jfrank]

On 4/21/2021 at 11:58 AM, wjustinthompson said:

A few months ago I acquired a set of 1953 Top-Flite Synchro-Dyned irons and I have noticed that they are quite collectible among my collectors groups. I am wondering what makes these so special? 

What are some of the common places/groups where these are traded?  I've moved some vintage Wilson inventory fairly easily but not so much the Spalding and MacGregor.  Thank you!

[ezgoer]

I stumbled onto an almost complete set of 1953’s in excellent condition. I was searching for evens to fill out the half set of 54 odds I found in a thrift store. Fell in love with those in 5 balls and knew I needed a complete set. Didn’t think I could land a set this nice. 

Could use some help on T shaft flex. I know A is senior in these year TT’s. Also help with loft specs if anyone has them. 

The 53 set was 2-10 and I previously had the other 2 Tournament wedges. Left one is a lob I believe with a green Rocket labeled shaft so 1954 maybe. Hard to get an exact number but around 58 degrees of loft using a protractor app. Middle wedge may be around 52 degrees and a bit less of a sole. Middle wedge is shorter with the different plain non wrap style leather grip and a white or silver TT shaft label. Possibly older than 53?? I assume there was SW for the set I have to get busy searching for. 

 

 Here’s some comparison pics of non Synchro-Dyned Tournament model SS irons with the same ferrules I’ve come across. 

Thinner almost flat in comparison and taller especially just inside the hozel but at the toe they are pretty similar heights. That previousl middle wedge was from this group. Possibly pre 53’s??? 
 

 So excited to have these and I have a very nice full set of 1955 H&B persimmons to pair with. Now I need a 1950’s putter I could use some suggestions on what to look for.

Edited August 31, 2023 by ezgoer

[cold_war_era_golfer]

6 hours ago, ezgoer said:

I stumbled onto an almost complete set of 1953’s in excellent condition. I was searching for evens to fill out the half set of 54 odds I found in a thrift store. Fell in love with those in 5 balls and knew I needed a complete set. Didn’t think I could land a set this nice. 

Could use some help on T shaft flex. I know A is senior in these year TT’s. Also help with loft specs if anyone has them. 

The 53 set was 2-10 and I previously had the other 2 Tournament wedges. Left one is a lob I believe with a green Rocket labeled shaft so 1954 maybe. Hard to get an exact number but around 58 degrees of loft using a protractor app. Middle wedge may be around 52 degrees and a bit less of a sole. Middle wedge is shorter with the different plain non wrap style leather grip and a white or silver TT shaft label. Possibly older than 53?? I assume there was SW for the set I have to get busy searching for. 

 

 Here’s some comparison pics of non Synchro-Dyned Tournament model SS irons with the same ferrules I’ve come across. 

Thinner almost flat in comparison and taller especially just inside the hozel but at the toe they are pretty similar heights. That previousl middle wedge was from this group. Possibly pre 53’s??? 
 

 So excited to have these and I have a very nice full set of 1955 H&B persimmons to pair with. Now I need a 1950’s putter I could use some suggestions on what to look for.

Wow!  Those are in stunning shape!!  As someone who personally has found some mint sets I’m yet to come across a set of ‘53s that nice!  
Those tournament models are pre 53.  I’ve had a few sets and they don’t feel as nice as the 53-54s imo

I’ve read the T shaft was a medium.

 

I listed a set of 54s for sale this afternoon and now you got me second guessing that!

[ezgoer]

Saw your set today. If I wouldn’t have found these we would have been talking. Good luck with sale. Initially I wasn’t the biggest fan cosmetically of these clubs, especially compared to the late 50’s early 60’s Synchro’s, but the moment I hit the half set I recently acquired that completely changed. Still don’t know what to think of the marbled ferrules. More of a flat no business club design they dressed up with gaudy or at least showy ferrules. The playability makes them beautiful though and with these irons I seriously question how far has iron playability really come in 70 years?. 50’s Wingbacks have long been my favorites looks wise but now having both these seem to be the more playable of the two I think. Maybe the Top Flite’s just fits me better? Have only done range sessions with each of the 2 so far. Will play rounds with both soon. 

Edited September 1, 2023 by ezgoer

[cold_war_era_golfer]

17 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

Saw your set today. If I wouldn’t have found these we would have been talking. Good luck with sale. Initially I wasn’t the biggest fan cosmetically of these clubs, especially compared to the late 50’s early 60’s Synchro’s, but the moment I hit the half set I recently acquired that completely changed. Still don’t know what to think of the marbled ferrules. More of a flat no business club design they dressed up with gaudy or at least showy ferrules. The playability makes them beautiful though and with these irons I seriously question how far has iron playability really come in 70 years?. 50’s Wingbacks have long been my favorites looks wise but now having both these seem to be the more playable of the two I think. Maybe the Top Flite’s just fits me better? Have only done range sessions with each of the 2 so far. Will play rounds with both soon. 

If they are stock the short irons on the ‘53s are longer than the wingback MacGregors.  
 

I agree the ‘54s weren’t something I was initially attracted to like the ‘63 Synchros.  But they played to well the first time out for me as well I quickly grew to love them.  

[NRJyzr]

On 8/31/2023 at 1:33 PM, ezgoer said:

Could use some help on T shaft flex.

 

Based on what I've seen in the old Dynacraft DSFI data over the years, T flex Dynamic was regular flex.  

 

That said, Dynamic regular back in the 50s appears to be a bit stiffer than DG regular in the modern market.

 

[MrFlipper]

The things you save on your phone over time lol

[cold_war_era_golfer]

On 9/2/2023 at 9:57 AM, MrFlipper said:

The things you save on your phone over time lol

I wonder why they dropped the weight markers on the heads in ‘54 ?  I’m yet to swing a set of ‘53s.  

Edited September 5, 2023 by cold_war_era_golfer

[Coletrain]

On 8/31/2023 at 2:33 PM, ezgoer said:

I stumbled onto an almost complete set of 1953’s in excellent condition. I was searching for evens to fill out the half set of 54 odds I found in a thrift store. Fell in love with those in 5 balls and knew I needed a complete set. Didn’t think I could land a set this nice. 

Could use some help on T shaft flex. I know A is senior in these year TT’s. Also help with loft specs if anyone has them. 

The 53 set was 2-10 and I previously had the other 2 Tournament wedges. Left one is a lob I believe with a green Rocket labeled shaft so 1954 maybe. Hard to get an exact number but around 58 degrees of loft using a protractor app. Middle wedge may be around 52 degrees and a bit less of a sole. Middle wedge is shorter with the different plain non wrap style leather grip and a white or silver TT shaft label. Possibly older than 53?? I assume there was SW for the set I have to get busy searching for. 

 

 Here’s some comparison pics of non Synchro-Dyned Tournament model SS irons with the same ferrules I’ve come across. 

Thinner almost flat in comparison and taller especially just inside the hozel but at the toe they are pretty similar heights. That previousl middle wedge was from this group. Possibly pre 53’s??? 
 

 So excited to have these and I have a very nice full set of 1955 H&B persimmons to pair with. Now I need a 1950’s putter I could use some suggestions on what to look for.

Did you snag these from marketplace out of Arizona? Someone grab them before I could get to them 😞

beautiful set. What's the loft from the 10 iron?

[ezgoer]

1 hour ago, Coletrain said:

Did you snag these from marketplace out of Arizona? Someone grab them before I could get to them 😞

beautiful set. What's the loft from the 10 iron?

No, from a collector in Iowa. He hasn’t even heard of us. I haven’t measured loft on 10 yet. Will let you know 

[ezgoer]

On 9/3/2023 at 7:02 PM, Coletrain said:

Did you snag these from marketplace out of Arizona? Someone grab them before I could get to them 😞

beautiful set. What's the loft from the 10 iron?

Just used a phone app and got 50 degrees on 10 iron and 46 degrees on 9 iron. Far from exact but did it a few times. 
 Seems to be about 1-2 degrees per club stronger than my 1955 Mac wing backs but those are harder to do for some reason 

[bcstones]

3 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

Just used a phone app 

what was the app?

[ezgoer]

Just a free protractor app on my iPhone 

[ezgoer]

Holding the club right is the trick. I played with other clubs  I know the loft of first but it pretty easy to move around and kinda make it say whatever you want it to say 

Edited September 5, 2023 by ezgoer

[bcstones]

6 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

Just a free protractor app on my iPhone 

any particular one? did you try any other than the one used?

[ezgoer]

This app

[otw]

Just found a set of the tournament model minus the 6 iron.  Know nothing about them other than all original.  Didn't want them to get separated at Goodwill.

[bcstones]

1 hour ago, otw said:

Just found a set of the tournament model minus the 6 iron.  Know nothing about them other than all original.  Didn't want them to get separated at Goodwill.

would love to see what you're tallkng about...can you post pictures of face, back, sole, shaft band &/or grip?

Edited November 24, 2023 by bcstones

[otw]

37 minutes ago, bcstones said:

would love to see what you're tallkng about...can you post pictures of face, back, sole, shaft band &/or grip?

Will do it on Saturday when finished driving back from thnxgiving

[ezgoer]

If you go back up the page I posted some Tournament Models compared to Syncro-Dyned pictures. They are pretty similar looking in pictures yet pretty different side by side in your hands. Thinner blade and taller club face near the hozel in comparison. Along with a full set of 53’s and a half set of 54 Syncro-Dyned I also have an 6-P of the Tournament’s but I haven’t tried them myself. Syncro-Dyneds are one of my favorite sets and I club I feel any one interested in old clubs needs to try. I honestly wasn’t a fan of the looks until I hit them. If I remember right brother Cold War wasn’t anywhere near as fond of the Tournament’s as Syncro’s. Man has a ton of experience with Spalding’s plus the Syncro-Dyned is considered one of the greats. Still cool old clubs though. 

Edited November 25, 2023 by ezgoer

[ezgoer]

8 hours ago, otw said:

Just found a set of the tournament model minus the 6 iron.  Know nothing about them other than all original.  Didn't want them to get separated at Goodwill.

Also I have a 6 iron for you if you’re interested 

[otw]

19 hours ago, bcstones said:

would love to see what you're tallkng about...can you post pictures of face, back, sole, shaft band &/or grip?

 

[bcstones]

1 minute ago, otw said:

 

Thanks....I love the ferrule (hey, @Jiggered take a look). The grip looks like that vulcanized cork stuff...hellish, so I'm told, to remove...so if in playable shape, keep. If I remember correctly - that triangle means a medium shaft (not sure if it means length or flex). The shaft band is True Temper...however, does it say anything more on the side that can't be seen - "Rocket" or "?" and  is it a "T" or "S"  
They're stainless steel, so should clean up easily for play.

Nice vintage, maybe '40s...surely playable.