MOI Matching - Short Length

[dlow206]

I am looking to do MOI matching for a set of Titleist T300 set. I have disassembled a set of heads and will be having brand new parallel tip shafts, so i have flexibility in cutting to length, adding weight to the heads, etc. 

 

I normally play my irons -0.5" because i am shorter in height (5'5") and have short legs. 

 

If i start at a 9 iron, wondering if i start at -0.5" from standard from the 9 iron and then go -3/8" between clubs? And should i add back some weight to the heads to get the 9 iron to a reasonable swingweight starting point?

 

@Howard_Jones

[Howard_Jones]

22 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

I am looking to do MOI matching for a set of Titleist T300 set. I have disassembled a set of heads and will be having brand new parallel tip shafts, so i have flexibility in cutting to length, adding weight to the heads, etc. 

 

I normally play my irons -0.5" because i am shorter in height (5'5") and have short legs. 

 

If i start at a 9 iron, wondering if i start at -0.5" from standard from the 9 iron and then go -3/8" between clubs? And should i add back some weight to the heads to get the 9 iron to a reasonable swingweight starting point?

 

@Howard_Jones

We need a club to duplicate or copy to the others, and the #9 as a starting point is easy. YES - start from -0.50" on that club, and tune it up until its like you want it

Start by taking notes of ALL heads (weight)
When your tune up the #9, and is done, simply rip of the lead tape and add the weight of it to the start weight of the head.

If the plan is 3/8" between clubs, you can dry fit to 6.90 grams between heads from the #9 and longer, but im not sure what tools you have (SW scale or MOI scale)?

About your shafts....
Weight sort and mark each with its weight.
Use the lightest for the longest club and progressive up....

I dont know this head model, was it delivered with a 0.370 hosel? 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[dlow206]

12 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

We need a club to duplicate or copy to the others, and the #9 as a starting point is easy. YES - start from -0.50" on that club, and tune it up until its like you want it

Start by taking notes of ALL heads (weight)
When your tune up the #9, and is done, simply rip of the lead tape and add the weight of it to the start weight of the head.

If the plan is 3/8" between clubs, you can dry fit to 6.90 grams between heads from the #9 and longer, but im not sure what tools you have (SW scale or MOI scale)?

About your shafts....
Weight sort and mark each with its weight.
Use the lightest for the longest club and progressive up....

I dont know this head model, was it delivered with a 0.370 hosel? 

 

The hosel is a 0.355", i am planning to sand the 0.370" shafts to fit. 

 

I have a swingweight scale, but no MOI scale. 

[Howard_Jones]

4 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

The hosel is a 0.355", i am planning to sand the 0.370" shafts to fit. 

 

I have a swingweight scale, but no MOI scale. 

OK, at 3/8" you can still use 6.90 grams from head to head, but let the SW scale guide you into 0.5 SWP down pr club longer than the #9 (no grips, only shaft and heads)

We can sand down graphite shafts to 0.355, so i hope yours is? if its steel, get a reamer and ream each hosel.

Edited October 27, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[dlow206]

Yes, graphite shafts.

 

Just measured the heads, and the weights between heads are a little strange

 

[Howard_Jones]

8 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

Yes, graphite shafts.

 

Just measured the heads, and the weights between heads are a little strange

 

thats not unusual, but you will most likely need some extra head weight on the #9, then draw the slope the other way vs now when you have found your ideal HW for the #9.

Edited October 27, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[dlow206]

23 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

thats not unusual, but you will most likely need some extra head weight on the #9, then draw the slope the other way vs now when you have found your ideal HW for the #9.

Thanks, what should i do with the 53 (it is part of the set)? it was 1 gram less than the 48. 

 

Also, thinking of starting -0.25" from standard for the 9 iron and then 3/8" gap between clubs. I am also wondering for PW, 48 and 53, do i still maintain the 3/8" gap?

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by dlow206

[Howard_Jones]

44 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

Thanks, what should i do with the 53 (it is part of the set)? it was 1 gram less than the 48. 

 

Also, thinking of starting -0.25" from standard for the 9 iron and then 3/8" gap between clubs. I am also wondering for PW, 48 and 53, do i still maintain the 3/8" gap?

 

We can do as we like, and get all "full swing clubs" into the same slope of 3/8" and 0.5 SWP, but there is a risk they might feel to short, since the GW becomes like the Sand normally does.

Since you start from MINUS 0.5" it can also be problematic to get head weight high enough on the GW. (you will need tungsten tip weights for graphite, and shorten the "pin" as weight adjustment form the 9 grams they are. (Wishon tungsten tip weights for graphite as example, and we TIP TRIM the shaft about 2/8 extra or equal to how much they lift the shaft, if we dont, we go softer vs standard tip trim)

Most use the classic 2/8" shorter from the #9, but we can still choose if we want them to have the same resistance (MOI) as the #9

Here is the formula for SW then.

1 inch = 1.33 SWP
That means 1/8 = 1.33/8 = 0.166 SWP
2/8 becomes 0.166 x 2 = 0.325 SWP
3/8 like the irons is 3 x 0.166 = 0.498 or 0.5 SWP

So, if you go 2/8" shorter from the #9 and wants your PW and GW to be like the #9, you go 1/3 SWP up pr club from the #9

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[dlow206]

14 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

We can do as we like, and get all "full swing clubs" into the same slope of 3/8" and 0.5 SWP, but there is a risk they might feel to short, since the GW becomes like the Sand normally does.

Since you start from MINUS 0.5" it can also be problematic to get head weight high enough on the GW. (you will need tungsten tip weights for graphite, and shorten the "pin" as weight adjustment form the 9 grams they are. (Wishon tungsten tip weights for graphite as example, and we TIP TRIM the shaft about 2/8 extra or equal to how much they lift the shaft, if we dont, we go softer vs standard tip trim)

Most use the classic 2/8" shorter from the #9, but we can still choose if we want them to have the same resistance (MOI) as the #9

Here is the formula for SW then.

1 inch = 1.33 SWP
That means 1/8 = 1.33/8 = 0.166 SWP
2/8 becomes 0.166 x 2 = 0.325 SWP
3/8 like the irons is 3 x 0.166 = 0.498 or 0.5 SWP

So, if you go 2/8" shorter from the #9 and wants your PW and GW to be like the #9, you go 1/3 SWP up pr club from the #9

 

 

Thanks Howard, that makes sense for me to go 2/8 shorter from the #9 onwards.

 

So for #5 to #9, i want 6.9 grams difference between heads. From #9 onwards, how many grams difference do I want to target?

[Howard_Jones]

2 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

Thanks Howard, that makes sense for me to go 2/8 shorter from the #9 onwards.

 

So for #5 to #9, i want 6.9 grams difference between heads. From #9 onwards, how many grams difference do I want to target?

YES we distribute tip weights (or lead tape for measurements) so heads is 6.9 apart, then we test each club with head and shaft only on the SW scale, and fine tune up/down until target SW value for that club is reached. (add the ferrule out side of the shaft at the point it will end up)

To get the right target, you need to tune up the #9 to know where to go.
Rip off the grip, and measure SW without grips to get the right dryfit target.

GRIPS is the LAST you do.
When all clubs is made and dry, you shall measure its total weight w/o grips.
Now you weight sort all grips, and use the tolerance in grip weight, to even out TOTAL weight slope
(never mind if that moves SW, its only the scale who notice this, actual MOI will still be as good as your dry fit job, and when both MOI and Total weight slope is good, you cant make it much better.

The IDEAL is to start it all with loft and lie, since even new heads can be and will be off and vary, and Lie adjustments moves SW/ Moi a little, so if you are picky, and want it 100%, get loft and lie checked / and adjusted if needed before dry fit. (yes iit can still be done with "loose shafts", w just fix the shaft with a 0.35mm to 0.50mm fishing line as "shim"

[dlow206]

27 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

YES we distribute tip weights (or lead tape for measurements) so heads is 6.9 apart, then we test each club with head and shaft only on the SW scale, and fine tune up/down until target SW value for that club is reached. (add the ferrule out side of the shaft at the point it will end up)

To get the right target, you need to tune up the #9 to know where to go.
Rip off the grip, and measure SW without grips to get the right dryfit target.

GRIPS is the LAST you do.
When all clubs is made and dry, you shall measure its total weight w/o grips.
Now you weight sort all grips, and use the tolerance in grip weight, to even out TOTAL weight slope
(never mind if that moves SW, its only the scale who notice this, actual MOI will still be as good as your dry fit job, and when both MOI and Total weight slope is good, you cant make it much better.

The IDEAL is to start it all with loft and lie, since even new heads can be and will be off and vary, and Lie adjustments moves SW/ Moi a little, so if you are picky, and want it 100%, get loft and lie checked / and adjusted if needed before dry fit. (yes iit can still be done with "loose shafts", w just fix the shaft with a 0.35mm to 0.50mm fishing line as "shim"

 

Thanks Howard. I don't have a swingweight scale as accurate as required, so I am not expecting perfection. Will the below get my me close enough?

 

- Between clubs #5 to #9: 3/8" progression, 6.9 grams of weight progression

- #9 to GW: 2/8" progression, 4.6 grams of weight progression

 

And does the fact that i am using parallel shafts that are not constant weight have any impact on the numbers or will it still be close enough?

[Howard_Jones]

15 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

Thanks Howard. I don't have a swingweight scale as accurate as required, so I am not expecting perfection. Will the below get my me close enough?

 

- Between clubs #5 to #9: 3/8" progression, 6.9 grams of weight progression

- #9 to GW: 2/8" progression, 4.6 grams of weight progression

 

And does the fact that i am using parallel shafts that are not constant weight have any impact on the numbers or will it still be close enough?

i can run the numbers for you in my excel calculator for MOI matching using SW to get you a better head weight number, but find ACTUAL (what fits you) for the #9 iron first, so we have the right starting point. I would also like to know that clubs SW value W/O GRIP to get it as close as possible.

NO - descending wgt shafts makes no difference of importance here, only for Total weight progression who becomes lower than with Constant wgt.

IF you can reply with the actual head wgt for your #9 (after tuning), it takes a minute for me to find head weight target for the others with "better numbers" than just using 6.9 as starting point.
(they will be good enough to build without a SW scale at all)

[dlow206]

20 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

i can run the numbers for you in my excel calculator for MOI matching using SW to get you a better head weight number, but find ACTUAL (what fits you) for the #9 iron first, so we have the right starting point. I would also like to know that clubs SW value W/O GRIP to get it as close as possible.

NO - descending wgt shafts makes no difference of importance here, only for Total weight progression who becomes lower than with Constant wgt.

IF you can reply with the actual head wgt for your #9 (after tuning), it takes a minute for me to find head weight target for the others with "better numbers" than just using 6.9 as starting point.
(they will be good enough to build without a SW scale at all)

 

Thank you, I should be able to tune the 9 iron this weekend. 

[ARL67]

Howard's advice is always spot-on.

 

FYI

The end-cap for the Wishon 9g tungsten weights for graphite are 1/8"

The end-cap for the Goflworks 4g lead weights for graphite are 1/8" , while the lead 6g are 1/4"

You can also by brass weights for graphite where the end-cap is negligible in thickness ( 1mm +  )

 

Most every SW scale has a similar ruler on it.  It is very easy to nudge over the sliding weight and eyeball a 0.5 SW increment, so you can get very accurate.  Unless its digital, every SW scale as a simple mechanical balancing device.  Even the budget one from Golfworks should let you eyeball 0.5.  I'm quite good and eyeballing 0.1 SW in the many very-short increment ( 1/4" ) MOI builds I have done.

 

Have fun with that build ! 👍

 

 

 

[Howard_Jones]

4 hours ago, ARL67 said:

Howard's advice is always spot-on.

 

FYI

The end-cap for the Wishon 9g tungsten weights for graphite are 1/8"

The end-cap for the Goflworks 4g lead weights for graphite are 1/8" , while the lead 6g are 1/4"

You can also by brass weights for graphite where the end-cap is negligible in thickness ( 1mm +  )

 

Most every SW scale has a similar ruler on it.  It is very easy to nudge over the sliding weight and eyeball a 0.5 SW increment, so you can get very accurate.  Unless its digital, every SW scale as a simple mechanical balancing device.  Even the budget one from Golfworks should let you eyeball 0.5.  I'm quite good and eyeballing 0.1 SW in the many very-short increment ( 1/4" ) MOI builds I have done.

 

Have fun with that build ! 👍

 

 

 

Good input, i could not recall how thick they was, and for the OPs build, he will most likely need tip weights for all, but we will see that when the numbers for head weight target is set. That means ALL shafts will most likely "need" 1/8" tip trim, but he have not specified how he wants this shafts to play yet, who could be "standard" softer, stronger, or maybe he wants "flighted" ?.

To the OP, if you have a wish to alter flex or flight pattern, just come forward with that, and we can do some numbers for that too so your tip trim becomes right. 
 

[Howard_Jones]

Huston....we have a problem.

I put your head weight numbers into my EXCEL calculator to be prepared, (and to knock of some rust from my memory, its even hard to wrap my head around this calculator i build myself LOL)

Fist of all, head weight should be with decimals.
Next is that IF we end up with a #9 iron that has a true SW value ABOVE D2, then tip weights alone cant make it.

Here is a snap shot of the upper part of the calculator, and never mind the numbers for heads thats NOT part of your set. If you look at the BOTTOM line who tells how much weight you ACTUALLY must add, we are already at 10.9 grams to get to D 0.77 who is target for your #7 iron since start head weight is low for that head. For the wedges we are also at the limit, and the SAND has a need above.

PS! FERRULE and Epoxy will be part of actual head weight, so as example 10.9 grams is within reach, while 14.6 grams for your SAND is outside of what we can get up to, unless you are planning for some long and "heavy" ferrules.




The calculator has a built in "stand alone" SW scale, based on TOTAL WGT and BALANCE POINT, for users who dont have a SW scale, so we can enter numbers directly for each club and get a SW value in return.

We enter Total wgt and BP to the BLUE fields and get a SW value as return, so this input datas is NOT yours, but those who was stored from another calck. Its below the part we see above, but "outside" end below my screen, so i have to split the photo in 2 parts, and here is the second part of the calculator.



Your head weight, without decimals is already put in, and you can have the calculator to play with for this build or any other.

We can tune both play length and difference from club to club as milimeter, change SW slope and resistance to what ever we want, and even "overrule" and adjust our Wedges as we like if they are NOT suppose to be part of the same matching as irons.

For YOU, the important specs becomes, TARGET value for the #9, and HEAD WEIGHT TARGET for all clubs.

The calculator is shared under the terms and conditions for "share-ware", so its free for all to use it, even modify it if you want (its write protected without a password so we dont mess up fields by mistake), but no commercial (resale) is allowed. Have fun with it, its good "education" for "what happens if calcs", and it even calculate potential flight pattern changes (due to head weight change vs standard)

PS!....the calculator is set for the #8 iron as starting point, so its a bit tricky to overrule that to become the #9 like i have, and maybe you should consider to use your #8 as starting point as 0.5" below standard. That makes a #9 1/8" longer than you are used to now, but it "improves" our ability to get to head weight and SW target since 1/8" = 0.75 SWP or close to a gram LESS needed.
 

METRIC IRONS wrx ver2US.xls (2).xlsm

Edited October 28, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[dlow206]

7 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

Huston....we have a problem.

I put your head weight numbers into my EXCEL calculator to be prepared, (and to knock of some rust from my memory, its even hard to wrap my head around this calculator i build myself LOL)

Fist of all, head weight should be with decimals.
Next is that IF we end up with a #9 iron that has a true SW value ABOVE D2, then tip weights alone cant make it.

Here is a snap shot of the upper part of the calculator, and never mind the numbers for heads thats NOT part of your set. If you look at the BOTTOM line who tells how much weight you ACTUALLY must add, we are already at 10.9 grams to get to D 0.77 who is target for your #7 iron since start head weight is low for that head. For the wedges we are also at the limit, and the SAND has a need above.

PS! FERRULE and Epoxy will be part of actual head weight, so as example 10.9 grams is within reach, while 14.6 grams for your SAND is outside of what we can get up to, unless you are planning for some long and "heavy" ferrules.




The calculator has a built in "stand alone" SW scale, based on TOTAL WGT and BALANCE POINT, for users who dont have a SW scale, so we can enter numbers directly for each club and get a SW value in return.

We enter Total wgt and BP to the BLUE fields and get a SW value as return, so this input datas is NOT yours, but those who was stored from another calck. Its below the part we see above, but "outside" end below my screen, so i have to split the photo in 2 parts, and here is the second part of the calculator.



Your head weight, without decimals is already put in, and you can have the calculator to play with for this build or any other.

We can tune both play length and difference from club to club as milimeter, change SW slope and resistance to what ever we want, and even "overrule" and adjust our Wedges as we like if they are NOT suppose to be part of the same matching as irons.

For YOU, the important specs becomes, TARGET value for the #9, and HEAD WEIGHT TARGET for all clubs.

The calculator is shared under the terms and conditions for "share-ware", so its free for all to use it, even modify it if you want (its write protected without a password so we dont mess up fields by mistake), but no commercial (resale) is allowed. Have fun with it, its good "education" for "what happens if calcs", and it even calculate potential flight pattern changes (due to head weight change vs standard)

PS!....the calculator is set for the #8 iron as starting point, so its a bit tricky to overrule that to become the #9 like i have, and maybe you should consider to use your #8 as starting point as 0.5" below standard. That makes a #9 1/8" longer than you are used to now, but it "improves" our ability to get to head weight and SW target since 1/8" = 0.75 SWP or close to a gram LESS needed.
 

METRIC IRONS wrx ver2US.xls (2).xlsm 402.94 kB · 3 downloads

 

Thanks @Howard_Jones, i will take a look in more detail at the calculator. i will test my 9 iron with lead tape and see where I end up with the optimized 9 iron headweight. If i had to guess, i think my optimized 9 iron swingweight will actually be below D2. I am a smooth swinger, not very aggressive. Here is a video of my swing just for reference:

 

 

[dlow206]

@Howard_Jones - i think i am going to start at around -0.25" in the 8 or 9 iron instead of -0.5", because that gets me to about -6/8" in length in the 5 iron, which is where i start to feel like the club length gets too long in a normal set. Without adjusting every parameter below, the grams to add to the head start to look more reasonable. I do know, for me, erroring on the light side is better than the heavy side, but we will see more once i test the 9 iron. 

 

Let me know if i did anything incorrectly in the calculator. 

 

[Howard_Jones]

It seems fine, and im glad you found out how to use it, its quite simple really.

I notice that Excel "blocs out" your numbers for the wedges.
simply remove write protection (no password), make headers visible and adjust the wide of those columns.

As you can see, its all based on METRIC, and if you set HOSEL spec info correct, you can see what NET cut shaft length your shaft should have, (before correction for tip weights used tip side), but be aware of the OPTION you actually have with that calculator. 3/8" between clubs is only one of them....so make sure you use a progression that makes BOTH ENDS of the set like you wants it, the calculator does the math for you.

For you and other readers, here is some options to the classic 4/8" between clubs, AND the 3/8" system. The fast and easy way to a MOI matched set, based on "pure standard", is to go 10.7 mm
(progressive butt cut of 2 mm, then 4, then 6mm into the long end from the starting point), The 10.7 mm system DO  NOT need ANY weight adjustment of head weight at all, thats how close to a MOI matched set we get with length adjustments only. 

That means we can order an "standard set" (plus or minus 0.5") from OEM (based on your needed specs for the #9 iron) , with the grips loose in the box, and when we get it home, simply adjust play lengths like the chart shows by but cut only, add grips and you are done.

Based on "standard heads" we CANT go all the way to SINGLE length, but we can go all the way down to 7.7 mm between clubs (a tad shorter than 5/16 who is equal to 7.93 mm) 

[dlow206]

@Howard_Jones - you had asked about the info for what shafts I will be playing. Here is the info:

 

LAGP AXS Red Stiff graphite

 

 

 

 

 

[Howard_Jones]

11 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

@Howard_Jones - you had asked about the info for what shafts I will be playing. Here is the info:

 

LAGP AXS Red Stiff graphite

 

 

 

 

 

The Energy inertia profile looks like a RIFLE FCM "copy" with a tad softer tip...nice shafts.
Here is the EI profile of RIFLE FCM.



If you wants to alter flight patterns, just tell what you want. This EI profile is very predictable and the one ive worked with the most. Im not sure how flex as butt CPM changes for that model, but if you want another flight pattern that standard, its VERY easy to alter the tip trim instructions to fit what ever you want them to doo.

[dlow206]

1 minute ago, Howard_Jones said:

The Energy inertia profile looks like a RIFLE FCM "copy" with a tad softer tip...nice shafts.
Here is the EI profile of RIFLE FCM.



If you wants to alter flight patterns, just tell what you want. This EI profile is very predictable and the one ive worked with the most. Im not sure how flex as butt CPM changes for that model, but if you want another flight pattern that standard, its VERY easy to alter the tip trim instructions to fit what ever you want them to doo.

 

I would prefer higher launch than standard. im not expecting to make a huge difference in launch, but higher than standard would be best for me. 

[Howard_Jones]

4 minutes ago, dlow206 said:

 

I would prefer higher launch than standard. im not expecting to make a huge difference in launch, but higher than standard would be best for me. 

You have a few options then.
Soft step them all 1 or 2 times, or make them "flighted".

For flighted you must choose the "mid iron" (standard tip trim), and we alter tip trim both ways from that club where longer becomes higher launching, and shorter lower launch.
How much we can alter it, depends on how long tip section we have available

How long is the uncut tip section?
Whats actual insert of the heads?
How long is the ferrules you wants to use?

[dlow206]

Just now, Howard_Jones said:

You have a few options then.
Soft step them all 1 or 2 times, or make them "flighted".

For flighted you must choose the "mid iron" (standard tip trim), and we alter tip trim both ways from that club where longer becomes higher launching, and shorter lower launch.
How much we can alter it, depends on how long tip section we have available

How long is the uncut tip section?
Whats actual insert of the heads?
How long is the ferrules you wants to use?

Thanks Howard, I will get that info once I have the shafts in hand, they are arriving later this week.

 

In regards to soft-stepping, i usually hear that term for taper tip shafts. For these parallel shafts, would that mean tip triming 0" for the 5 iron, 0.5" for the 6 iron, etc., based on the standard tip trim for this iron shaft?

 

[Howard_Jones]

Based on "standard" tip trim instructions, SS1 is moving all headers 1 x to the left, SS2 is 2 x to the left

Standard #5 = 1.0"
Soft stepped once = 0.5"
Soft stepped twice = 0"

No matter tip length, a "Flighted" set up like THIS is possible, and it will make the set "progressive" flighted iron to iron, starting from the PW who becomes close to std.

Edited October 28, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[Flacoman]

On 10/27/2021 at 11:19 AM, Howard_Jones said:

OK, at 3/8" you can still use 6.90 grams from head to head, but let the SW scale guide you into 0.5 SWP down pr club longer than the #9 (no grips, only shaft and heads)

We can sand down graphite shafts to 0.355, so i hope yours is? if its steel, get a reamer and ream each hosel.

You can also slit the end of the shaft for a fit. Callaway did that for a while.

[Howard_Jones]

3 hours ago, Flacoman said:

You can also slit the end of the shaft for a fit. Callaway did that for a while.

Not on graphite shafts, you destroy the shaft if you try.

[dlow206]

My shafts arrived. One thing i noticed is each has the cpm on the label

 

@Howard_Jones - should i weight sort the shafts or sort based on the cpm on the stickers? my assumption was the higher weight shafts in the set would have a higher cpm, but it didn't work out that way exactly. 

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by dlow206

[Howard_Jones]

Weight is #1 so for descending wgt shafts we reduce weight drop from long to short by using the heavy for the shortest clubs and the lightest for the longest.

FLEX on graphite is CARBON FIBER (weight is next to nothing)
WEIGHT = The amount of RESIN used. Resin has no flex properties.

Thats why there aint no system here like we see on steel shafts where heavy is stiffer.

[dlow206]

@Howard_Jones - I went out for my optimization session and the results were interesting (in a good way)

 

Here was the setup:

- 8 iron with the LAGP shaft mentioned above

- Double soft stepped

- Total playing length of club measured with out grip was just a little under 36.5". i use the Mitchell measurement tools, and it takes off about 1/8" to account for a "typical" grip cap

- In my sets in the past, I had played -0.5", but I wanted to start with standard length and choke down during the test if needed

- I don't measure the final playing length with grip, because i play the Jumbo max ultralite XS, and they have abnormally long grip caps

- I had rubber tungsten stick-on weights plus some masking tape to make sure they stayed in place

 

Results:

- Started out, strikes were pretty decent with no weights, but missing some right, some left. This is consistent with my normal misses

- Added one stick-on weight, club felt just slightly heavier during the swing, but in a good way, strikes got better, less left and right misses

- Added one additional stick-on weight. Started to feel heavier and that more effort was needed with my swing. Shots were better than with no weights, but felt I was having to give a bit too much effort during the swing. At one point, i had a streak of 4 balls where the balls were going left and right and with not as good of contact. I looked down at the club and the weights weren't there, they flew off. I think that fact helps proves this wasn't just placebo

- I was able to next split one of the weights approximately in half, and this is where i got my best results. Good strikes, good dispersion, appropriate amount of effort during the swing

 

Conclusion:

- Went home, pulled the head from the shaft, and weighed out the 8 iron plus the optimized weights. Total headweight of the 8 iron with the optimized weights was 276.3 grams. That means I added 3.3 grams of weights to the 8 iron

- i plan to play my 8 iron at standard length instead of -0.5" 

- i have tip weights that are 8 grams total, plan to cut those to get to the right weights. I may not be able to get precisely to the decimal point on the weights, but i believe for me, its better to error on the lighter side than heavier