OG Graf Blue X graphics? BULGE??

[grm24]

18 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

Photo of a old quote from True Temper about BLUE TOUR

 

Thank you Howard for the TT info on the Blue Tour. Glad to see I wasn't too far off.

[rbpwrx]

On 11/27/2022 at 6:24 PM, AdamMH said:

Reg flex (loose) - a hair under 23.75" tip to edge of white oval.

Stiff flex is in an SMT Spectrum, with bore depth or about 2.125". If it's fully inserted, tip to same spot will be 24.5". It's not uncommon for one of these heads to be partially inserted though...  Hence, I can't tell without pulling the shaft.

 

What does yours measure? Maybe we can figure it out with one extra data point...

Top of hosel (not ferrule) to right edge of white oval is 21".

I'm reading online that insertion depth on the 905S is 3". Is that even possible?? That brings it right to the bottom of the club. Are these drivers *literally* bore-thru?

Anyway, IF that's true, then tip-to-graphics is 24". If your SMT number is correct, then this may have been tipped 1/2", and fully inserted (which effectively tips it another 1.5"). Yikes. Stout city.

The number that's definitely true is 21", hosel to oval. Raw is DEFINITELY at least 23.75, according to your REG shaft. So my X is playing *at least* to a 2.75" insertion.

Which matches both my eye (there almost no parallel section - starts fattening almost immediately - will confirm this with micrometer when I'm back at the shop), and my 'feels' (which tell me the tip is uber-stable, no kick down there at all - the loading comes from the middle/ upper shaft, and only on a good swing).

My best guess: this is a true bore-thru installation (3" +), untipped except for sanding flush, and tip-to-graphics is somewhere between 24 and 24.5" raw.

All I know is, on the course, a weak swing gets me a fading bunt drive - totally usable - and a good swing gets me down the middle, strong. It won't go left on me unless I totally collapse and flip. Which is fair. And it's a good match for my CT130 irons.

Onward to the 3W search!

Edited December 7, 2022 by rbpwrx

[AdamMH]

37 minutes ago, rbpwrx said:

Top of hosel (not ferrule) to right edge of white oval is 21".

I'm reading online that insertion depth on the 905S is 3". Is that even possible?? That brings it right to the bottom of the club. Are these drivers *literally* bore-thru?

Anyway, IF that's true, then tip-to-graphics is 24". If your SMT number is correct, then this may have been tipped 1/2", and fully inserted (which effectively tips it another 1.5"). Yikes. Stout city.

The number that's definitely true is 21", hosel to oval. Raw is DEFINITELY at least 23.75, according to your REG shaft. So my X is playing *at least* to a 2.75" insertion.

Which matches both my eye (there almost no parallel section - starts fattening almost immediately - will confirm this with micrometer when I'm back at the shop), and my 'feels' (which tell me the tip is uber-stable, no kick down there at all - the loading comes from the middle/ upper shaft, and only on a good swing).

My best guess: this is a true bore-thru installation (3" +), untipped except for sanding flush, and tip-to-graphics is somewhere between 24 and 24.5" raw.

All I know is, on the course, a weak swing gets me a fading bunt drive - totally usable - and a good swing gets me down the middle, strong. It won't go left on me unless I totally collapse and flip. Which is fair. And it's a good match for my CT130 irons.

Onward to the 3W search!

You'll have to keep in mind what the TT rep said previously... there are bore-through versions of the shaft. Yours might be one of them, especially if it was a factory install. No telling what the tipping is like now that we know that.

I read in another thread that the rule of thumb for BT heads was to have a 4" PTS in order to insert properly. I'm not so sure a standard Blue will fully insert into a BT head with a 3" PTS. It might not reach far enough to be flushed trimmed at the sole.

Anyways, you seem to like it - don't change it!

[rbpwrx]

40 minutes ago, AdamMH said:

You'll have to keep in mind what the TT rep said previously... there are bore-through versions of the shaft. Yours might be one of them, especially if it was a factory install. No telling what the tipping is like now that we know that.

I read in another thread that the rule of thumb for BT heads was to have a 4" PTS in order to insert properly. I'm not so sure a standard Blue will fully insert into a BT head with a 3" PTS. It might not reach far enough to be flushed trimmed at the sole.

Anyways, you seem to like it - don't change it!

 

I like knowing if I get a bad result, it's the swing, not the shaft. Basically, baseball-bat stiff. BUT. If I had a better swing, I could probably time a softer shaft...

[AdamMH]

2 hours ago, rbpwrx said:

 

I like knowing if I get a bad result, it's the swing, not the shaft. Basically, baseball-bat stiff. BUT. If I had a better swing, I could probably time a softer shaft...

Same here. I've got shafts in flexes up to 3X, though all of those are cut quite long. I still find a way to miss fairways, imagine that 😂

[rbpwrx]

On 12/7/2022 at 2:25 PM, AdamMH said:

Same here. I've got shafts in flexes up to 3X, though all of those are cut quite long. I still find a way to miss fairways, imagine that 😂

 

I'd rather bunt it short with a reliable fade than hit a monster into the trees. Hence, TXs and up, for me! Really enjoying this OG Blue X. Feels like more shaft than anything else I'm playing, including heavy Tour Green TX, Tensei White TX, etc.

[rbpwrx]

On 11/28/2022 at 1:55 PM, TrueTemper said:

And yes the Grafalloy Blue (my first shaft I designed) does have much wider geometry in the middle than most standard shafts.

 

DB

A year later, SO many questions! Thanks for an epic shaft, DB!

First, I grew up with steel in my woods, and in some ways this reminds me of the X100 I had in my bore-thru 983E. Very low torque and very linear. The Blue X in my 905S is fully-inserted, also bore-through, and micrometer confirms immediate increasing diameter above the hosel. Which must tighten up that rated 2.8* considerably, no?

Second, I love that you increased the diameter to keep it firm through the middle. I wonder why more shaft manufacturers don't do that today. I've only seen it in a HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX hybrid (also a great shaft - low torque and linear - I don't suppose you designed that one too)?

Third, can you reveal anything about the layup? I'm curious what materials you used, and why? You managed to make it very light but very stiff. Was that the reason for the 'fat' geometry? Also, It has a particular feel through the 'belly' - firm but load-y. Unique. Was that intentional? A function or materials/ orientations/ diameter? All three?

And finally, are there any shafts on the market today that you feel compare to the OG Blue? They are getting really hard to find. I actually snapped the head off that 905S last year on a particularly aggressive swing - I stuck the stump in an old T-M 300 head for a mini driver (had to 'taper' the hosel a little to get it in there), but it's one of my favorite clubs ever. Torque probably down around 1*. Literally cannot miss a fairway with it.

Would love to know what other shafts you have designed in your career! Like trying all the Tillinghast courses in the world. Thanks again, DB!