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Re-shafting Ping Irons (i230)


mgoblue83

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Hi Everyone,

 

Thank you in advance for any advice!

 

I'm just about to start shafting up these i230 heads and I'm really concerned at how much play the shaft has in the hosel.

 

It's very loose but not quite loose enough to fit a shim.

 

I have Ping collared ferrules to use which I know will help center the shaft but I'm just wondering what else I can do to secure the shaft a little tighter. 

 

Use extra epoxy? Extra centering beads? Chopped up shim?

 

If anyone has experience I would really appreciate the advice.

 

Thank you!

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Just now, wobgon said:

The shaft must be forced into the hosel or it will not go all the way in....I pound the butt of the shaft on the floor till it seats in the bottom.....There are other threads on this.

 

This is true of the old Ping's, but not for the models using the hosel weight and toe screw.

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29 minutes ago, SaVo_ said:

from asking people on these forums a while back. They have just used the ping-collared ferrules and have had no issues. 

I wish it were that simple…

More factors involved.  Hosel prep, best epoxy-3M, some say shims too, and more. 
 

@mgoblue83 best to read over those topics quoted , and more. 
Search for things like Ping hosel, Ping reshaft, Ping epoxy, and the like.

 


 

 

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8 minutes ago, st1800e said:

I wish it were that simple…

More factors involved.  Hosel prep, best epoxy-3M, some say shims too, and more. 
 

@mgoblue83 best to read over those topics quoted , and more. 
Search for things like Ping hosel, Ping reshaft, Ping epoxy, and the like.

 


 

 

 

Appreciate the advice and I have read over quite a few topics. There just doesn't seem to be a consensus on shims vs. no shims and the people who didn't use shims have not really talked about additional steps to secure the shaft.

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I am not an expert. Maybe the use of drywall tape at a length so it is below the bottom of the collar down to the bottom of the hosel. It will help fill the perceived void. Try a dry run before gluing up.

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Cleveland CBX 56° Full Face, Project X Catalyst 80 R

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1 hour ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

Appreciate the advice and I have read over quite a few topics. There just doesn't seem to be a consensus on shims vs. no shims and the people who didn't use shims have not really talked about additional steps to secure the shaft.

 

That's not true.  Read through those threads and pay attention to the requirements to properly prepare the surfaces before bonding.  That's the number one most important thing.  Honestly, we don't need another thread on this topic, it's been beat to death.  Particularly in that PXG thread that has posts as recently as 8 days ago.

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Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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17 minutes ago, Nessism said:

 

That's not true.  Read through those threads and pay attention to the requirements to properly prepare the surfaces before bonding.  That's the number one most important thing.  Honestly, we don't need another thread on this topic, it's been beat to death.  Particularly in that PXG thread that has posts as recently as 8 days ago.

 

Hey man I appreciate the feedback and while most of your posts are helpful I'm asking a very specific question that I have not seen directly answered in the 5-6 threads that I read through.

 

What exactly can I do to make the fit a little tighter without using a shim? (Most people say a shim is not needed with the i230s)

 

This is not about surface prep, using collared ferrules or any of the typical PXG/PING questions that I saw in those other threads.

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4 hours ago, wobgon said:

The shaft must be forced into the hosel or it will not go all the way in....I pound the butt of the shaft on the floor till it seats in the bottom.....There are other threads on this.

 

3 hours ago, TallGuy90 said:

I had a much better experience using a shim. You can get different size and I cut off a few leafs. The collared ferrules still leave the bottom with lots of space 

 

These seem like opposite takes? With the heads I have it takes zero force to seat the shaft and it's got so much room that it's moving around at the bottom of the bore.

 

@TallGuy90 What size shims did you use? Did you cut off every other leaf? I tried to dry fit with a shim and it won't even come close to seating all the way. Gets absolutely stuck about 1/2in from the bottom.

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If the shaft is moving at the bottom of the bore, use a shim to center it.  Every golf club component site sells a .355 to .370 shim.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-brass-adaptor-shims/p/shim/%3Fsku%3DSHIM-T&opi=95576897&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjtm_7_l8-EAxXSAHkGHfk2A0UQ5jEIUg&usg=AOvVaw17VC3sSyU2fSYT09pjRnhO

Edited by zip7111
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1 hour ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

 

These seem like opposite takes? With the heads I have it takes zero force to seat the shaft and it's got so much room that it's moving around at the bottom of the bore.

 

@TallGuy90 What size shims did you use? Did you cut off every other leaf? I tried to dry fit with a shim and it won't even come close to seating all the way. Gets absolutely stuck about 1/2in from the bottom.

That comment by Wobgon was pointed out to be incorrect in a subsequent post.  
 

I’ve used those shims on G410’s, and had to shorten the wings/ears to make them fit.  It’s also wise to prep the shims, roughing them up with some fine sandpaper inside and out and cleaning with MEK. Yes that’s tedious, but you only want to do this once.  
 

 

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2 hours ago, mgoblue83 said:

 

 

These seem like opposite takes? With the heads I have it takes zero force to seat the shaft and it's got so much room that it's moving around at the bottom of the bore.

 

@TallGuy90 What size shims did you use? Did you cut off every other leaf? I tried to dry fit with a shim and it won't even come close to seating all the way. Gets absolutely stuck about 1/2in from the bottom.

I cut 2 off and also cut the length by at least half. The issue with ping was it tappers from .370 to about .360. It’s not even a .355 at the bottom . I used .335 shims 

 

I bet if you marked where the shim is getting stuck and cut those off you would be able to seat the shaft to the bottom of the hosel

Edited by TallGuy90
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I've reshafted multiple sets of i230's w/ zero issues and no special technique.   No need to overthink it.  I clean and abrade the hosels.  Swab the hoses with with acetone.  Use the Ping collared ferrules and set them all at proper depth with a collared ferrule setting tool.  3m DP810 adhesive, just like Ping.  Finished product looks factory.  No failures, shaft lean or anything undesirable.  

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Sorry to go off on a tangent here, but for those who use 3M DP810 what "applicator gun" do you use?  

 

The 3M gun is ~$150...  I found 3M DP810 on Amazon and under the "frequently bought together" they list the "Tracktronix EPX Applicator Gun 62-9170-9930-1 50ML ResinTech Epoxy" for $18.99.  If the Traktronix gun works with the 3M DP810 it would make it more palatable.  I have shied away from the 3M mainly because of the cost of the applicator gun.  

Edited by TonyDAnnunzio
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1 hour ago, TonyDAnnunzio said:

Sorry to go off on a tangent here, but for those who use 3M DP810 what "applicator gun" do you use?  

 

The 3M gun is ~$150...  I found 3M DP810 on Amazon and under the "frequently bought together" they list the "Tracktronix EPX Applicator Gun 62-9170-9930-1 50ML ResinTech Epoxy" for $18.99.  If the Traktronix gun works with the 3M DP810 it would make it more palatable.  I have shied away from the 3M mainly because of the cost of the applicator gun.  

 

Did you read the reviews on the Tracktronix gun?  Lots of guys using it with 3M cartridges.  Worst case, send it back with free Amazon shipping.  There are lots of aftermarket guns that work with 3M cartridges.  I can't tell you which specifically, because I have a 3M gun.

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Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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