How to build the ultimate fairway finder 2nd tee club going against modern design trends

[Milfordlefty]

On 4/25/2024 at 1:17 PM, Tbone107 said:

Just called Krank to confirm and it is 8.5x8.5... as I was talking to them I asked about the specs about the mini driver and luckily enough it sounds like it is designed exactly what I (and @joostin) are looking for in a size and design characteristics from a cg perspective.. so I think I'm going to hold off and wait for this to roll out..

Just reading, my game is no where like yours, so can't give direct comments based on what I've played. I am LH, so know what is like to not have lh options. Did you look at the Krank Formula FIRE 3+ fairway wood? I see you have direct communication with Krank, have they made any recommendation to you regarding this head to fit your club parameters?

Edited April 30 by Milfordlefty

[biffstix]

Callaway 3 deep? 

[Tbone107]

On 4/23/2024 at 3:30 PM, Howard_Jones said:

Head weight itself is what matters, and it takes a little more weight when we add it high, vs low (distance from shaft butt to actual COC vs SW value). If you normally add 8 grams, add them inside to the crown, so with what ever weight you can remove from the sole. if the sum is 20 grams do it, but try it off with lead tape first, so you know what you get. Hot melt is a messy job to remove, so we better be sure before we make it.

Update here.. I actually had a Krank 3+ I never got along with laying around and didn't want to go through the effort of hot melting this one without ports so I went ahead and added 12g of lead tape to the crown and have seen very positive changes in terms of flight.

 

This head was always a little on the spinner side by launch was a big issue. Seems as if my launch has come down noticeably after applying the tape. Not the most aesthetic thing, but this head wasn't going to get used and gives me something to use while I wait for the Krank mini driver to get released. 

 

Crazy how much it has dulled the sound as well. This was already a muted head, but now it almost doesn't even make a noise. 

[Tbone107]

On 4/29/2024 at 11:52 AM, Milfordlefty said:

Just reading, my game is no where like yours, so can't give direct comments based on what I've played. I am LH, so know what is like to not have lh options. Did you look at the Krank Formula FIRE 3+ fairway wood? I see you have direct communication with Krank, have they made any recommendation to you regarding this head to fit your club parameters?

Just sent the above lol. But what I've found is the fairway woods are designed for more mass appeal from an flight and build characteristic where their LD heads are built for high speed. 

[Howard_Jones]

47 minutes ago, Tbone107 said:

Update here.. I actually had a Krank 3+ I never got along with laying around and didn't want to go through the effort of hot melting this one without ports so I went ahead and added 12g of lead tape to the crown and have seen very positive changes in terms of flight.

 

This head was always a little on the spinner side by launch was a big issue. Seems as if my launch has come down noticeably after applying the tape. Not the most aesthetic thing, but this head wasn't going to get used and gives me something to use while I wait for the Krank mini driver to get released. 

 

Crazy how much it has dulled the sound as well. This was already a muted head, but now it almost doesn't even make a noise. 

Good to hear my suggestion DID make a change...(it should 🙂

But its easy to add Hotmelt to the crown, just drill trough a 1 mm thick aluminium stopper in the hosel, and you have full access to the inside of the head. PRE heat the crown of the head (use a electric gun for the sake of the paint)

Pre-heat the needle on the hotmelt fun with a torch right before use. Held the head upside down (use glow its hot now) and simply let the needle "leak" it down to the crown..Weight check several times. When enough is added, heat up the head again, so the hotmelt becomes fluid, and let it run at both sides (heel and toe) and against the face.
This way we spread it over a larger area, but with the max to the front. That will mute it to the max (larger area covered, less vibrations and sound)

PS! to close the hosel after hotmelt, there is some 1 mm thick plastic shims, but just cut a piece of a empty beer can, it can do the same job.  (thinner drill than 0.355 when we open the head, so we leave insert dept.)

Edited May 16 by Howard_Jones

[Tbone107]

On 5/16/2024 at 10:20 AM, Howard_Jones said:

Good to hear my suggestion DID make a change...(it should 🙂

But its easy to add Hotmelt to the crown, just drill trough a 1 mm thick aluminium stopper in the hosel, and you have full access to the inside of the head. PRE heat the crown of the head (use a electric gun for the sake of the paint)

Pre-heat the needle on the hotmelt fun with a torch right before use. Held the head upside down (use glow its hot now) and simply let the needle "leak" it down to the crown..Weight check several times. When enough is added, heat up the head again, so the hotmelt becomes fluid, and let it run at both sides (heel and toe) and against the face.
This way we spread it over a larger area, but with the max to the front. That will mute it to the max (larger area covered, less vibrations and sound)

PS! to close the hosel after hotmelt, there is some 1 mm thick plastic shims, but just cut a piece of a empty beer can, it can do the same job.  (thinner drill than 0.355 when we open the head, so we leave insert dept.)

Great info. Thanks Howard!